theDreamer's Z

Ron · 03-05-2012, 12:42 PM

that's what I am getting with Project Mu B-Spec pads.

theDreamer · 03-05-2012, 03:07 PM

I am at 37k miles, just rolled over last night and still on stock brake parts.
Get some vibration when stopping sometimes and I can definitely tell they are starting to wear. I am pricing out parts and 2 piece rotors are on the list but not 100% sure I want to drop the coin on them.

Meeting up with Keith tonight so we can look at the noise and he wants to ride in the car with a SC. If anyone else wants to meet up let me know, going to be on the west side of town around I10 probably around 6-7PM.

Jamaica · 03-05-2012, 03:12 PM

i need rotors to. I am around the same mileage also.

Nitemare06 · 03-05-2012, 03:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by NoSub4Godzila

The 'plopping' sound is you crapping yourself when a Red Goat pulls up next to you at the lights.

Looking good Matt, maybe the 'Unicorn' car will re-appear in the parking lot tomorrow.

travisjb · 03-05-2012, 09:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by theDreamer

I am at 37k miles, just rolled over last night and still on stock brake parts.
Get some vibration when stopping sometimes and I can definitely tell they are starting to wear. I am pricing out parts and 2 piece rotors are on the list but not 100% sure I want to drop the coin on them.

Meeting up with Keith tonight so we can look at the noise and he wants to ride in the car with a SC. If anyone else wants to meet up let me know, going to be on the west side of town around I10 probably around 6-7PM.

2 cents... I'd be a little cautious on 2-piece aftermarket rotors until we see some reliability data... I've heard a few stories already about failures. Others can tell those tales, if they like. I'd recommend simple slotted rotors combined with any mod you can come up with to increase airflow.

Ron · 03-05-2012, 10:20 PM

DBA5000s have been around for a while. Or do you mean reliability data specifically from our cars when fitted with aftermarket 2pc rotors?

wstar · 03-05-2012, 10:28 PM

Maybe a more general way to put it would be: no matter who's making your rotors and how much reputation they have, rotors are a throw-away expendable item in the long run. All rotors eventually fail. A light-duty OEM rotor lasts a little while street driving, and if you're doing more than that and you "need" a better rotor, that means you're also hitting that rotor harder. In the net, they're still gonna be dead on a regular basis. Think hard about whether whatever the rotors cost you is something you want to toss out the window on a regular basis

For example, Z1 has some awesome OEM-replacement rotors that you can order slotted for $198 a pair (front or rear), made from good quality blanks. To me right now, that seems like the sweet spot for rotor price/perf unless you're on the really serious end of tracking/racing the car. I'm probably going to be picking up a set of them in the next few days, but I need to sort a few things out first: Akebono 370Z/G37 Sport Package Performance Rotors

theDreamer · 03-05-2012, 11:20 PM

Back from comparing my suspension with Keith's. His does not make the noise like mine, but he has a lot more miles on his so mine may still be settling in as I have just been doing highway miles the past couple days. Only other difference is his car is a bit lower than mine, but not sure that would cause any noise.

On the rotor note, thanks for the info will probably stick to the 1 piece then.

O&G · 03-10-2012, 12:17 PM

Many many Hi level Brake manufactures make their top shelf kits w/ a 2 piece rotor design for a reason. The rotor will expand and contract w/ heat more effectively and evenly, the weight reduction alone is awesome compared to a one piece, the fact that you can keep the hats(which look 100x's better than a single/solid rotor design) and just replace the actual rotor disc is nice, they dissipate heat at a quicker rate than a solid one piece design will. There are perks to running a two piece design.

Brembo Brakes - GT-R Braking System

Project Mu Brakes - Brake Rotor - SCR Pro

Street Heavy Duty | Disc Brakes Australia

but if you don't trak, then I guess there is no point.

Robert_K · 03-10-2012, 12:35 PM

Testing Brakes with StopTech

Robert_K · 03-10-2012, 12:43 PM

Testing Brakes with StopTech

O&G · 03-10-2012, 12:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Robert_K

Testing Brakes with StopTech

Damn, StopTech did their homework. I'm guessing you are running those since you settle for nothing but the best!

Robert_K · 03-10-2012, 12:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by O&G

Damn, StopTech did their homework. I'm guessing you are running those since you settle for nothing but the best!

Actually that article and some other research help me go with the StopTechs. Plus with them in Cali its easy for tech help.

O&G · 03-10-2012, 12:53 PM

Great find and a slew of great info. Repped brotha!

ChrisSlicks · 03-10-2012, 12:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by theDreamer

Back from comparing my suspension with Keith's. His does not make the noise like mine, but he has a lot more miles on his so mine may still be settling in as I have just been doing highway miles the past couple days. Only other difference is his car is a bit lower than mine, but not sure that would cause any noise.

On the rotor note, thanks for the info will probably stick to the 1 piece then.

The height could be a factor. The spring may not have enough tension when unloaded (pre-load) causing it to rattle going over bumps. If you jack up the rear of the car (body, not control arm) let the rear hang loose and remove the wheel. If you can shake the spring at all then that is the cause of your noise. Just give a couple of turns on the adjuster so that it is tighter and even with the other side.

03-05-2012, 12:42 PM	#706 (permalink)
Ron A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 3,009 Drives: TT '11 PW Nismo #113 Rep Power: 22	that's what I am getting with Project Mu B-Spec pads. __________________ 2011 Twin Turbo PW nismo #113 - My Journal - My TT Build Thread [ GTM GTX Stg2 TT \|\| HKS EVC6 \|\| Custom CarPC \|\| F.I 3'' TDX CBE \|\| SB 6puck clutch/ZSpeed CSC \|\| BC BR Coilovers \|\| SPC camber arms \|\| Work VSS-X \|\| Custom Headlights \|\| PW:JDM CF Covers \|\| Seibon CF Engine Cover ]

03-05-2012, 03:07 PM	#707 (permalink)
theDreamer A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Texas Posts: 30,879 Drives: 370z Rep Power: 4210	I am at 37k miles, just rolled over last night and still on stock brake parts. Get some vibration when stopping sometimes and I can definitely tell they are starting to wear. I am pricing out parts and 2 piece rotors are on the list but not 100% sure I want to drop the coin on them. Meeting up with Keith tonight so we can look at the noise and he wants to ride in the car with a SC. If anyone else wants to meet up let me know, going to be on the west side of town around I10 probably around 6-7PM. __________________ theDreamer's Z // Fast Intentions // Uprev // GTM // HKS // TEIN theDreamer's Silvia // URAS // GREDDY Houston Zs // Facebook // Twitter // Instagram

03-05-2012, 10:20 PM	#711 (permalink)
Ron A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 3,009 Drives: TT '11 PW Nismo #113 Rep Power: 22	DBA5000s have been around for a while. Or do you mean reliability data specifically from our cars when fitted with aftermarket 2pc rotors? __________________ 2011 Twin Turbo PW nismo #113 - My Journal - My TT Build Thread [ GTM GTX Stg2 TT \|\| HKS EVC6 \|\| Custom CarPC \|\| F.I 3'' TDX CBE \|\| SB 6puck clutch/ZSpeed CSC \|\| BC BR Coilovers \|\| SPC camber arms \|\| Work VSS-X \|\| Custom Headlights \|\| PW:JDM CF Covers \|\| Seibon CF Engine Cover ]

03-05-2012, 10:28 PM	#712 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3594	Maybe a more general way to put it would be: no matter who's making your rotors and how much reputation they have, rotors are a throw-away expendable item in the long run. All rotors eventually fail. A light-duty OEM rotor lasts a little while street driving, and if you're doing more than that and you "need" a better rotor, that means you're also hitting that rotor harder. In the net, they're still gonna be dead on a regular basis. Think hard about whether whatever the rotors cost you is something you want to toss out the window on a regular basis For example, Z1 has some awesome OEM-replacement rotors that you can order slotted for $198 a pair (front or rear), made from good quality blanks. To me right now, that seems like the sweet spot for rotor price/perf unless you're on the really serious end of tracking/racing the car. I'm probably going to be picking up a set of them in the next few days, but I need to sort a few things out first: Akebono 370Z/G37 Sport Package Performance Rotors __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

03-05-2012, 11:20 PM	#713 (permalink)
theDreamer A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Texas Posts: 30,879 Drives: 370z Rep Power: 4210	Back from comparing my suspension with Keith's. His does not make the noise like mine, but he has a lot more miles on his so mine may still be settling in as I have just been doing highway miles the past couple days. Only other difference is his car is a bit lower than mine, but not sure that would cause any noise. On the rotor note, thanks for the info will probably stick to the 1 piece then. __________________ theDreamer's Z // Fast Intentions // Uprev // GTM // HKS // TEIN theDreamer's Silvia // URAS // GREDDY Houston Zs // Facebook // Twitter // Instagram

03-05-2012, 03:12 PM	#708 (permalink)
Jamaica A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2010 Location: SoCal Posts: 15,362 Drives: Under boost Rep Power: 73	i need rotors to. I am around the same mileage also.

03-10-2012, 12:17 PM	#714 (permalink)
O&G A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Lone Star State Age: 42 Posts: 1,212 Drives: 40th Anv. Rep Power: 23	Many many Hi level Brake manufactures make their top shelf kits w/ a 2 piece rotor design for a reason. The rotor will expand and contract w/ heat more effectively and evenly, the weight reduction alone is awesome compared to a one piece, the fact that you can keep the hats(which look 100x's better than a single/solid rotor design) and just replace the actual rotor disc is nice, they dissipate heat at a quicker rate than a solid one piece design will. There are perks to running a two piece design. Brembo Brakes - GT-R Braking System Project Mu Brakes - Brake Rotor - SCR Pro Street Heavy Duty \| Disc Brakes Australia but if you don't trak, then I guess there is no point. __________________ O&G's Build/Journal <---(1st lowmount single turbo treeseventy) Built Engine Thread 2011 F-250 Build/Journal

03-10-2012, 12:35 PM	#715 (permalink)
Robert_K A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2009 Location: Spring, TX/Iraq Posts: 1,281 Drives: '12 Forgeline G37S Rep Power: 18	Testing Brakes with StopTech __________________ '12 G37S Forgeline, '03 Built TT 350Z HRE (Sold!) http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m...psc7a6dc53.jpg

03-10-2012, 12:43 PM	#716 (permalink)
Robert_K A True Z Fanatic Join Date: May 2009 Location: Spring, TX/Iraq Posts: 1,281 Drives: '12 Forgeline G37S Rep Power: 18	Testing Brakes with StopTech VDC_OFF likes this. __________________ '12 G37S Forgeline, '03 Built TT 350Z HRE (Sold!) http://i107.photobucket.com/albums/m...psc7a6dc53.jpg

03-10-2012, 12:53 PM	#719 (permalink)
O&G A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2010 Location: Lone Star State Age: 42 Posts: 1,212 Drives: 40th Anv. Rep Power: 23	Great find and a slew of great info. Repped brotha! __________________ O&G's Build/Journal <---(1st lowmount single turbo treeseventy) Built Engine Thread 2011 F-250 Build/Journal