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cool stuff Travis! Dumb question, how does your engine rev to 9.5k while our engine rev to 7.5k at most. does M370 manifold contribute?
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It's just a telemetry error.
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ok. i just noobbed out lol.
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Just found out that my car will be invited to SEMA this year to be on display in the BC Racing Suspension/Wheels booth!
Look for a new set of 19" BC Racing Wheels coming soon...these ones to be exact... http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...ZNV/370z_1.jpg Now to find some more sponsors to help me make the Z prettier to look at... |
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Nice invite
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I could powdercoat your strut brace to match the calipers if you want. |
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no problem on that either!
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http://www.bonannimotorsports.com/odyssey_2.jpg
Odyssey Batteries has hopped on board as a SEMA sponsor this year! For those that recall, I had their PC680 lightweight battery in my Z the last time I built it and had zero issues with it so I went for the same thing again. The battery weighs 21 lbs. less than the stock battery which is awesome, especially considering the location of the stock battery, which is an excellent place to lose weight from. I also got their universal hold-down kit this time as I sold my last one with the old battery when I went back to stock. Their new hold-down kit is incredible looking and very well engineered. For now, I will mount it in the stock location for the sake of simplicity and ease. Eventually, when I am farther along with this build, I will re-locate the battery to an ideal place for weight distribution, likely in the trunk area or behind the passenger seat, but we'll have to wait until I get to that point to put it on the scales and see where it would be the most beneficial. My favorite part about this battery is that it doesn't add any modification points in N.A.S.A. Time Trials! |
Nice bracket. How long typically can a car sit with these batteries before needing to be started or charged?
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Just replaced mine after 18 months or so... I did not use a battery tender - will going forward
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A battery tender is the way to go. Get the one with the wiring and you don't even have to open the hood, or in Travis's case - trunk :)
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mine connects through the passenger "window" ... I have it hanging off a ceiling plug in my garage and I attached the quick release directly to the batter terminals so it's a cinch to take on / off
just realized spohn's question wasn't answered... there is a small voltage draw from the ecu that will drain the battery if it sits without a tender for long enough... guessing for a new battery it is maybe 3-4 weeks... but I think that really depends on how much life is left in the battery - after 12 mos in the car, the duration between starts will need to be shorter... or as stated above, get a tender |
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What Travis said. I never had to jump my car last time I had one in there. I had it in the car for about a year and a half and drove the car probably on average 2-3 times/week since I worked from home at the time.
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Took some time today to black out the door handles and front/rear emblems on the 370Z today! Used that Plasti-Dip stuff everyone's talking about and it was awesome. Feels a little weird on the door handles but looks good with the wheels I think. Will look even better when I eventually do the FX Carbon Fiber Film on the roof, front fangs, and mirror caps!
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p..._emblems_1.jpg http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p..._emblems_2.jpg |
I like it!
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It makes me want to spray a bunch of stuff haha...don't know what else I would want to spray though. It's just so easy...
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was just thinking the same thing... not sure what it would make sense to spray on my car... hmmm... can plastic make you faster? lol
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I suppose I could spray my mirror caps for the time being until I get that FX Carbon Fiber film on them...
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Do you have any tips for doing plasti dip on the door handles? did you remove the handles? and if not what did you tape up to make sure not to jam the mechanism?
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Odyssey PC680 installed!
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...680_2_edit.jpg More plasti-dip goodness coming in a few hours too... :) |
And now here's the rest of the stuff I plasti-dipped today. Did the Z emblems and peeled off the area covering the light portion just leaving the Z and outer ring black...
http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p..._emblems_3.jpg And did the front fangs which turned out ok. Up close the edges didn't do so well and it looks like a poor masking job but it turned out good enough for now. I will eventually switch to a better solution. http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...ip_fangs_1.jpg And the whole package... http://i129.photobucket.com/albums/p...ip_fangs_2.jpg |
I like the side emblems. Need to do that myself.
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So I think that some front upper control arms are next on the list for my Z, but having a bit of a debate with myself so I wanted to see if anyone else wanted to weigh in.
We all know our options are VERY limited for this part, we basically have two options... 1. SPC Performance - I had these on my car before and HATED them. They wouldn't hold my camber settings, they were super hard to make adjustments on, and they were near impossible to get any accuracy out of when you did try and dial in your settings. It's just a terrible design, but the benefit is they did offer a big range of adjustment. 2. Kinetix Racing - Haven't heard much about these ones but from the looks of it, the design is MUCH MUCH better than the SPC and the price is right. It looks to be easy to adjust, even with the wheel on the car still and doesn't share the same flaws as the SPC. These would be a no brainer EXCEPT they have one major flaw and that is they only offer 1.5 degrees of adjustment in each direction over the stock arm. At my ride height, I am sitting at -0.9 degrees negative camber on the stock arms which means I will max out at -2.4 degrees which is decent, but I fear I will need to be more in the -3.0 range for optimal use. So I really think both are a waste of money for what I want them for but which one is less of a waste of money? I think I am still leaning toward the Kinetix. I know that A.M. Performance plans on eventually offering their arms that they made for their GrandAm cars but I fear those won't be available for some time and when they are available they will be way out of my price range. I never took the time to do proper tire temp monitoring/alignment specs on my 370Z the last time I had it built up for time attack so I am not sure what the proper ballpark range is for front negative camber but maybe Travis or someone can chime in and let me know if they are around the -3.0 degree mark. I know it will vary a little depending on the rest of the car/track/tires/etc. but if everyone else is ideally around 3.0 or more then 2.4 will be way off the mark. |
FWIW I'm at about 3.5 degrees and that seems to be fairly ideal for most tracks, some could even use a little more based on the tire temperature data. Same BC ER coilovers and spring rates as you.
At first I couldn't get the SPC arms to hold a camber setting, but I started torquing them to a higher spec and now they stay put. It is still a pain to make adjustments especially on a lowered car. Usually I'll have to jack the front of the car a little bit, make an adjustment and then recheck where I ended up, takes a lot of time. |
The Z is looking great Mike, very clean and mean. Looks like you opened up a whole lot of free space in the battery compartment too!
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As for the SPC arms, I tightened them as hard as I could, even using big breaker bars and they still didn't hold on a bumpy track. Quote:
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I agree that there should be a better locking mechanism, there is no friction surface or lock washer. This last time around mine have stayed put through some pretty rough tracks. Perhaps something could be added to increase the friction on the lock mechanism, not sure what though. |
My alignment shop told me to stay away from kinetic, they are crap. The old dude who does the race alignments doesn't mince words. Daisuke won't go there for an alignment because he told him 20s are stupid on a Z, but he knows his stuff.
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My SPC arms are holding camber adjustment... but I agree the design is clumsy as hell and no one thought through the need some of us have to tweak camber at the track with tires on... I actually welded together a dedicated tool using an old breaker bar and socket, and now I bring it with me to track and can make changes with tires on... I'm sure I'll end up striping the but at some point but works for now.
If A.M. offered the part, I'd upgrade |
Damn, now I am back on the fence with it... I have a really hard time spending money on something I already know I hate.
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You guys are making me nervous about lowering and getting upgraded arms/bars.......guess I will deal with that headache when I get there.
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