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There are plenty to chose from... look here Battery Cut-Off Switch - Google Product Search I'd recommend this one... Pegasus - Master Battery Cutoff Switch with Alternator Protection Wiring instructions

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Old 06-02-2009, 01:37 PM   #151 (permalink)
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There are plenty to chose from... look here
Battery Cut-Off Switch - Google Product Search

I'd recommend this one...
Pegasus - Master Battery Cutoff Switch with Alternator Protection

Wiring instructions here...
http://www.pegasusautoracing.com/pdf...structions.pdf

... you would install this near the OEM battery location, and if you ever decide to race, could easily be setup for external 'off'
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Old 06-02-2009, 01:41 PM   #152 (permalink)
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Put a breaker on the ground part of the battery so then all you do is switch the breaker off. Or you can have one on both sides.

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Old 06-02-2009, 01:55 PM   #153 (permalink)
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Got my Hotchkis swaybars in today. The delivery truck driver was very envious when he saw the box, and then the car These will probably be installed tomorrow evening.
You have the Stillen exhaust right? As long as there is an easy way to drop the rear exhaust section down about 10-12 inches the rear swap is a piece of cake. Most of the time is spent jacking the car up and getting it on the stands. The front is straight forward, just need to take off the undertray as if you were doing an oil change. Check out my DIY's. Don't read the Hotchkis install guide for the rear, it has unnecessary steps as it is written for a G37.
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Old 06-02-2009, 02:50 PM   #154 (permalink)
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Put a breaker on the ground part of the battery so then all you do is switch the breaker off. Or you can have one on both sides.

Yeah I looked at a 200A breaker like the one you're showing. I'd like to go this route if possible, as it combines the short-circuit protection and easy switch-off for working on the car all in one. I'm just not sure if a 200A breaker is going to trip on a hard cold start one morning. I still have no idea what the reasonable current range is for our starter motor draw.
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Old 06-02-2009, 02:52 PM   #155 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks View Post
You have the Stillen exhaust right? As long as there is an easy way to drop the rear exhaust section down about 10-12 inches the rear swap is a piece of cake. Most of the time is spent jacking the car up and getting it on the stands. The front is straight forward, just need to take off the undertray as if you were doing an oil change. Check out my DIY's. Don't read the Hotchkis install guide for the rear, it has unnecessary steps as it is written for a G37.
Yeah I have the Stillen exhaust. It will be interesting, we'll see how it works out at install time Luckily I have a few spare gaskets for the rear of the exhaust.
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Old 06-02-2009, 03:24 PM   #156 (permalink)
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Went ahead and ordered Lightning Audio LCB200, I'm just gonna put it in there and find out the hard way whether the car still starts
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Old 06-02-2009, 04:08 PM   #157 (permalink)
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Cool, let us know! That sounds like a great price too.
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Old 06-03-2009, 06:13 PM   #158 (permalink)
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I got my first Oil Analysis back (took me a while to get it to the post office, I'm lazy):



Copied from the pic comments in the Album:

I never sent my factory fill. This report is for the second batch of oil in the engine. I changed the factory fill for Nissan Ester 5W-30 at ~1,800 miles, and ran that until 4,038, which is when I switched to Motul. This report is from that first and only Nissan Ester that I put in the engine myself.

Edit: pic fixed
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Last edited by wstar; 06-03-2009 at 06:17 PM.
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Old 06-04-2009, 09:38 PM   #159 (permalink)
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Installed the breaker this evening. The car started fine without tripping it. Then again, it's a hot summer-ish evening and the car had only been off for 5 hours. Might be different on an ice cold morning in the dead of winter with a car that hasn't been run in 2 days. We'll see when I get there in the winter

I also went ahead and prewired a little harness for my trickle charger in case I need/decide to use it. The breaker is mounted to the top of the battery box with superglue (I know, how ghetto of me).

But anyways, yes, the Lightning Audio LCB-200 seems to do the trick, providing short-circuit protection as well as a convenient way to kill the battery power when working on the car.

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Old 06-04-2009, 10:07 PM   #160 (permalink)
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Re: everything else (the brakes and swaybar stuff waiting in the garage), it's going to have to wait a week and a half or so. I'm flying out Sunday for a week and leaving the Z behind , and this weekend and the next are pretty much filled with non-car-related obligations and entertainment of various sorts.
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Old 06-04-2009, 11:40 PM   #161 (permalink)
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very functional, nice job!

hurry back !
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Old 06-16-2009, 02:01 PM   #162 (permalink)
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I'm back, mostly, but busy with non-car things still. I really want to get my brakes and swaybar stuff installed ASAP, maybe today or tomorrow but we'll see.

The only really useful thing to report, is that after sitting in the garage untouched for 9 days (without a trickle charger), the PC680 in the trunk started the car fine, and the Lightning Audio 200 Amp breaker didn't blow So yeah, trickle charging probably not even necessary on this setup, which is surprising but cool.
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Old 06-16-2009, 06:39 PM   #163 (permalink)
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That's really great news for the PC680!

Welcome back, wstar, nice to have you back
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Old 06-16-2009, 07:03 PM   #164 (permalink)
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Find me a bracket for the pc680 to keep it in stock location, THNX!
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Old 06-16-2009, 09:45 PM   #165 (permalink)
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Find me a bracket for the pc680 to keep it in stock location, THNX!
Found one! Its made by Password JDM and is on sale right now. This will work in the stock location if you secure the base of it to the stock battery tray.

Password:JDM Billet Aluminum Universal Battery Relocation Kit | Your Price: $89.99 | Password JDM
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