wstar's Journal

wstar · 04-22-2013, 11:13 AM

Oh good thought, thanks! I actually have them on my stock front calipers, but I kinda forgot they were there

sig11 · 04-22-2013, 11:42 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks

You'll want some of these unless you like your dust boots extra crispy

DH586 Titanium Brake Shims for AP Racing CP7040 Caliper

Do they really work? I just had my brakes rebuilt and roasted them again the day after.

ChrisSlicks · 04-22-2013, 11:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sig11

Do they really work? I just had my brakes rebuilt and roasted them again the day after.

I got them at the end last year but since my seals were already in a toasted state (refreshed in the spring) so I can't say yet. I will be replacing the seals and dust boots soon with high-temp parts and we'll see what happens.

<OT>
It's too bad they didn't design the kit with the CP5555 caliper, it has a recessed dust boot and a better bridge support. It matches up almost identically in specs, would need a just slightly different bracket since the caliper sits a couple of mm higher.
</OT>

wstar · 04-22-2013, 01:41 PM

Yeah there are a lot of options w/ AP's custom racing stuff, or having Essex do the calipers or whatever, including stuff with no dust boots at all (but then I guess you're expected to clean/rebuild more often that way as well). Just you lose the "Stillen says it works on this car, and gives you the right brackets and rotors that fit correctly" part.

wstar · 04-24-2013, 08:18 PM

New pro pics from the last event, Apr 13/14 at MSR-Houston. You can see how much lower the car is sitting, and how much less body roll and nose-dive there is in these. While it feels like "zero body roll" in the car, and other drivers were commenting that there was virtually no body roll, in the still photos you can of course see that there still is some mild roll in the car. I guess that's always the case unless you weld everything solid

. Not sure if damper settings affect that or it's just spring rate, so it's possible by bringing up the damper stiffness I could push some of that out, too. All through this event I had the rear Hotchkis sway at full-soft as well.

With notes on what's happening in each pic (This is MSR-H Clockwise):

This one's nearly done tracking out from a right-hander onto the pit straight, still accelerating in mid-4th-gear:

Midway through the second corner of Sugar-and-Spice from the rear, you can easily see the remaining body roll. I'd say at this point in the corner the car's about as laid over on lateral G's as it's ever gonna get on these tires:

This is at the end of the pit straight, a right turn again. I've started turn-in, but I'm not 100% sure whether I was off the brakes on this attempt or still playing with trailing them into it:

Not even sure where this is, too little context. Maybe Gut-check, maybe the straight before Bus-stop?

And this is near the end of Keyhole, a ~50mph-ish tight little circular section to the right:

ChrisSlicks · 04-25-2013, 09:31 AM

Just remember that stiffest isn't always fastest. You have to match the damping to the tires and the track conditions. Some weight transition is useful, it just needs to be controlled.

For my setup I run full stiff on DOT-slicks, about 2/3rds for R-comp 100TW tires (NT01/RA-1) and about 1/2 for sticky street tires as the starting point. In the rain on R-comp wets I run about 1/3rd. Different coilovers though so your settings will be a little different. If I'm not happy with the traction balance of the car front to rear I will make small adjustments to try and get it dialed in.

Probably the most important thing is that you keep a log of everything. Weather, tire pressures, damper settings, what you had for breakfast, oil temps etc. It will all be useful when analyzing your performance at the end of the day or even in between sessions.

Car is looking great BTW and love the data logging setup.

wstar · 04-25-2013, 10:39 AM

Yeah a log of all the conditions and settings is starting to become a necessity. At least I only have one type of tire setup at the moment. I can only imagine how complicated it gets when you're switching.

The data logging is pretty amazing, but it will be a while until I get into the hang of really using it well. What you see in the Youtube videos is just basic video + gauge overlay, but their software actually does a lot more than that when I'm at my desk analyzing data in it. Again, logs to go with the data would help, so that I can see things like "Hey changing that swaybar setting gains me 5mph at the traction limit in corner X" or whatever the case may be.

You can see a little slideshow about their analysis software here: Race-Keeper Software | Race-Keeper . Basically, you get graph data for everything that's synced with the track map and video, and you can do side-by-side video + full-data comparisons of laps from different outings or whatever and it syncs those up as well.

wstar · 04-25-2013, 10:41 AM

Or here's a better example from their tutorial vids: Race-Keeper Comparo Instructional Screencasts | Race-Keeper

VDC_OFF · 04-25-2013, 10:47 AM

looks awesome, but whoever put on the numbers was dyslexic.

3rd pic looks like a new profile pic

ChrisSlicks · 04-25-2013, 11:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar

Yeah a log of all the conditions and settings is starting to become a necessity. At least I only have one type of tire setup at the moment. I can only imagine how complicated it gets when you're switching.

The data logging is pretty amazing, but it will be a while until I get into the hang of really using it well. What you see in the Youtube videos is just basic video + gauge overlay, but their software actually does a lot more than that when I'm at my desk analyzing data in it. Again, logs to go with the data would help, so that I can see things like "Hey changing that swaybar setting gains me 5mph at the traction limit in corner X" or whatever the case may be.

You can see a little slideshow about their analysis software here: Race-Keeper Software | Race-Keeper . Basically, you get graph data for everything that's synced with the track map and video, and you can do side-by-side video + full-data comparisons of laps from different outings or whatever and it syncs those up as well.

I use this one. Not as fancy as yours, you have to record the video separately and combine later, but the data analysis suite is very similar.

AiM Sports - Solo overview

wstar · 04-27-2013, 11:09 PM

So I started tearing things apart yesterday, and I'm just about done with destructo-mode and it's time for put-it-back-together mode. All in one go I'm upgrading basically all of my cooling components (radiator, oil/trans coolers, all the hoses, bypass heater, etc) and gutting the engine bay side of the HVAC, and doing the Z1 engine mounts while I'm in there (trans mount later, it's a separate simple project).

Anyways, thought I'd post an in-progress update. My engine is now Cylon-approved:

With the radiator, AC compressor, and alternator out of the way, swapping engine mounts is really, really easy. The only tricky part (as Spohn mentioned) might be finding an appropriate point or two to jack the engine upwards from safely. In my case I happen to have that AM Perf baffled oil pan, which is machined from a solid aluminum block and really can't be bent, so I just put a 2x4 under the oil pan and lifted the engine up with a floor jack on that.

wstar · 05-16-2013, 09:32 AM

I was a little worried I bit off more upgrades than I could chew between track weekends this time around, but it looks like I made it, fingers crossed. Later this evening will be my first real street test-drive on all the new setup, it's all buttoned back up now and it's been through a little static stress-testing in-place on the lift. A few notes I can put out now without having really driven the car yet:

7AT Fluid Swap without Dealer, and to non-Nissan fluid

I had a dealership change my 7AT fluid last time, around 20K miles in, right after I added the small (series-1 and very short) trans cooler from Stillen's kit. Now that I'm just a hair under 40K and upgrading the cooler, I did another swap and did it myself this time.

The new cooler is a Setrab Series-6 19-row (the one used in the 19-row oil cooler kits commonly for this car - where mine came from). I've switched from Nissan's factory Matic-S to the Motul Multi-ATF that Z1's selling. It's one of the very very few aftermarket ATFs to claim Nissan Matic-S compatibility, their marketing materials on it talk specifically about being suitable for latest-generation semi-autos, and I trust their brand at this point, so I expect this to go well.

As for the whole dreaded issue with Consult-III temps for fluid change: through some mild experimentation I think I figured out this isn't as bad as it seems. To recap the service manual: you can only swap 3/9 quarts at a time via the drain/fill holes, and a "full change" in the SM is three of those swaps (which leaves 28% old fluid in the mix, that's ok). I'm probably more like 10 quarts with the add-on cooler/lines. After the final fill-to-overflow cold, you're supposed to fire it up, warm up to a Trans Temp of ~104F, roll through the gears in-place, raise the lift, and open up the overflow again to let it spill down and get the level set at that temp.

With an IR thermo, you can get close enough for government work. If you shoot the IR thermo at close range on the bottom pan metal near the overflow/refill port itself, you'll read ~5-10 degrees F lower than the actual fluid temp in the pan. So basically, warm it up until that spot on the pan reads around 95-100F. When you pull the plug and start draining if you carefully shoot the dropping fluid up-close, you'll see it around the 100-110 range, which is close enough (the SM allows for some variability there anyways). Keep in mind I was in a garage at reasonable ambient temps around 70-80F and little wind and the car was pretty cold having been on the lift for days and only fired up a few minutes at a time. YMMV in other conditions, esp if the pan/trans is already heat-soaked from previous driving.

Setrab 9-Series Oil Cooler fitment

Now I know why all the easy-install oil cooler kits use Setrab's 6-series coolers (in 19/25/34-row heights).... I went with a 25-row Series-9 which is considerably wider. It seems like a better airflow fit for our grill opening, since at 25-row you're not getting much more airflow height between the bottom edge and the crash bumper area. The reason most of the kits don't use a Series-9 is it really doesn't fit well at all with our stock radiator core support and that center strut that holds the ambient air temp sensor, etc. I had to do a ton of cutting and customization to make it work. I also added a top-mount by drilling holes in the backside of the crash bumper, so it's mounted (with anti-shock rubber) top and bottom for stability.

I suspect the Series-9 25-row is about as ideal as you can get, just be warned there's a reason the kits use the Series-6. Stock up on dremel cut-off wheels and be prepared to do major surgery and relocation of factory bits to fit the Series-9.

APRacing/Stillen brake kit notes

So far so good, I did ~200 miles of rotor break-in before the car went on the lift for other surgery a couple weeks ago. The one little note I wanted to add, since I discussed this stuff randomly both here and in other threads and never reported the final decisions: I've kept AP's pad clips in all 4 calipers in the end. Apparently it's functionally fine to leave them out for a track car, according to Stillen. I didn't think I'd care about NVH, so why not leave off an excess part that could cause a problem? Because the noise really is worrying. Without the clips the pads bonk around in the calipers a lot. I have a hard time telling whether that's just my clipless rear pads I'm hearing or maybe my suspension is falling apart in the rear because I forgot to torque down a bolt or something. At those kinds of ugly noise levels, IMHO the clips are worth it just to make it easier to diagnose other noises.

DR_ · 05-16-2013, 10:07 AM

I didn't have to cut/fabricate anything for the 25 row Series 9 Setrab to fit well. My guess is that you installed it with the L bracket facing towards the radiator while I installed it facing outside like the way GTM installs it.
This is not mine but it is similar.

wstar · 05-16-2013, 10:49 AM

Mine is on the "outside" of the core like yours. The big differences between my setup and that picture are:

1) I have my trans cooler on the driver's side and oil cooler on the passenger side (opposite above). The lines are more natural that way (shorter runs).
2) I'm using the same bracket pictured (the one from Setrab themselves), but I used one on the bottom and one on the top (to the back of the alum crash bar, with an extra piece of angle aluminum to mate them up). This limits hose routing options to some degree, but prevents the cooler swaying back and forth on the bottom mount under accel/brake.
3) I had to move my cooler further inboard (towards center post laterally) than that, by about an inch or two, to get the lines to route past it out the same side (one behind, one over the top, and both stock PS cooler lines running behind), and as a result it sticks past the center post an extra inch or two. Thus, had to cut away a fair amount of the center post's depth, including the bracket for the air temp sensor.

I ended up putting the air temp sensor in the upper center area between the G3 intakes, so now it's a "that pocket of air up by my intakes" temp sensor, which I imagine will read a bit higher with all the hot air from the various radiators.

Between the 9-series 25-row oil cooler and the 6-series 19-row trans cooler, there's only a tiny tiny gap left between the two now. Almost all airflow has to go through those to reach the radiator (well, the trans cooler lets some pass beside/above, but not much). I don't think you could fit 2x 9-series very well at all.

DR_ · 05-16-2013, 12:11 PM

I'm tempted to move my air temp sensor up to the intakes as well. I use that air temp versus the intake temp sensor to get an idea of how much heat soak I have and having the air temp sensor closer to the intake would give me a better indication.

Do you have a garage for the TMS event? I'll be in garage 44 and my dad is in garage 26 so I will likely be in one of those two areas. I've got new tires plus the bigger oil cooler so I am excited about this event.

04-22-2013, 11:13 AM	#556 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3594	Oh good thought, thanks! I actually have them on my stock front calipers, but I kinda forgot they were there __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

04-22-2013, 01:41 PM	#559 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3594	Yeah there are a lot of options w/ AP's custom racing stuff, or having Essex do the calipers or whatever, including stuff with no dust boots at all (but then I guess you're expected to clean/rebuild more often that way as well). Just you lose the "Stillen says it works on this car, and gives you the right brackets and rotors that fit correctly" part. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

04-24-2013, 08:18 PM	#560 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3594	New pro pics from the last event, Apr 13/14 at MSR-Houston. You can see how much lower the car is sitting, and how much less body roll and nose-dive there is in these. While it feels like "zero body roll" in the car, and other drivers were commenting that there was virtually no body roll, in the still photos you can of course see that there still is some mild roll in the car. I guess that's always the case unless you weld everything solid . Not sure if damper settings affect that or it's just spring rate, so it's possible by bringing up the damper stiffness I could push some of that out, too. All through this event I had the rear Hotchkis sway at full-soft as well. With notes on what's happening in each pic (This is MSR-H Clockwise): This one's nearly done tracking out from a right-hander onto the pit straight, still accelerating in mid-4th-gear: Midway through the second corner of Sugar-and-Spice from the rear, you can easily see the remaining body roll. I'd say at this point in the corner the car's about as laid over on lateral G's as it's ever gonna get on these tires: This is at the end of the pit straight, a right turn again. I've started turn-in, but I'm not 100% sure whether I was off the brakes on this attempt or still playing with trailing them into it: Not even sure where this is, too little context. Maybe Gut-check, maybe the straight before Bus-stop? And this is near the end of Keyhole, a ~50mph-ish tight little circular section to the right: ChrisSlicks, DR_, SPOHN and 2 others like this. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

04-25-2013, 09:31 AM	#561 (permalink)
ChrisSlicks A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: North East Posts: 6,203 Drives: 09 370Z Sport M6 Rep Power: 653	Just remember that stiffest isn't always fastest. You have to match the damping to the tires and the track conditions. Some weight transition is useful, it just needs to be controlled. For my setup I run full stiff on DOT-slicks, about 2/3rds for R-comp 100TW tires (NT01/RA-1) and about 1/2 for sticky street tires as the starting point. In the rain on R-comp wets I run about 1/3rd. Different coilovers though so your settings will be a little different. If I'm not happy with the traction balance of the car front to rear I will make small adjustments to try and get it dialed in. Probably the most important thing is that you keep a log of everything. Weather, tire pressures, damper settings, what you had for breakfast, oil temps etc. It will all be useful when analyzing your performance at the end of the day or even in between sessions. Car is looking great BTW and love the data logging setup. __________________ Hotchkis ARB \| Stillen CAI \| Art Pipes \| Berk CBE \| Stillen AP Racing Brakes \| AE Performance Oil Cooler \| BC Racing ER Coilovers \| Doran Control Arms

04-25-2013, 10:39 AM	#562 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3594	Yeah a log of all the conditions and settings is starting to become a necessity. At least I only have one type of tire setup at the moment. I can only imagine how complicated it gets when you're switching. The data logging is pretty amazing, but it will be a while until I get into the hang of really using it well. What you see in the Youtube videos is just basic video + gauge overlay, but their software actually does a lot more than that when I'm at my desk analyzing data in it. Again, logs to go with the data would help, so that I can see things like "Hey changing that swaybar setting gains me 5mph at the traction limit in corner X" or whatever the case may be. You can see a little slideshow about their analysis software here: Race-Keeper Software \| Race-Keeper . Basically, you get graph data for everything that's synced with the track map and video, and you can do side-by-side video + full-data comparisons of laps from different outings or whatever and it syncs those up as well. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

04-25-2013, 10:41 AM	#563 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3594	Or here's a better example from their tutorial vids: Race-Keeper Comparo Instructional Screencasts \| Race-Keeper __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

04-25-2013, 10:47 AM	#564 (permalink)
VDC_OFF A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2011 Location: Houston (Pearland) Age: 44 Posts: 1,205 Drives: 2011 370Z M6 Rep Power: 17	looks awesome, but whoever put on the numbers was dyslexic. 3rd pic looks like a new profile pic __________________ DRIFTING JOURNAL \| Follow me on Instagram \| Facebook \| Houston Halos

04-27-2013, 11:09 PM	#566 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3594	So I started tearing things apart yesterday, and I'm just about done with destructo-mode and it's time for put-it-back-together mode. All in one go I'm upgrading basically all of my cooling components (radiator, oil/trans coolers, all the hoses, bypass heater, etc) and gutting the engine bay side of the HVAC, and doing the Z1 engine mounts while I'm in there (trans mount later, it's a separate simple project). Anyways, thought I'd post an in-progress update. My engine is now Cylon-approved: With the radiator, AC compressor, and alternator out of the way, swapping engine mounts is really, really easy. The only tricky part (as Spohn mentioned) might be finding an appropriate point or two to jack the engine upwards from safely. In my case I happen to have that AM Perf baffled oil pan, which is machined from a solid aluminum block and really can't be bent, so I just put a 2x4 under the oil pan and lifted the engine up with a floor jack on that. ChrisSlicks, DR_, Megan370z and 1 others like this. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details Last edited by wstar; 04-27-2013 at 11:13 PM.

05-16-2013, 09:32 AM	#567 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3594	I was a little worried I bit off more upgrades than I could chew between track weekends this time around, but it looks like I made it, fingers crossed. Later this evening will be my first real street test-drive on all the new setup, it's all buttoned back up now and it's been through a little static stress-testing in-place on the lift. A few notes I can put out now without having really driven the car yet: 7AT Fluid Swap without Dealer, and to non-Nissan fluid I had a dealership change my 7AT fluid last time, around 20K miles in, right after I added the small (series-1 and very short) trans cooler from Stillen's kit. Now that I'm just a hair under 40K and upgrading the cooler, I did another swap and did it myself this time. The new cooler is a Setrab Series-6 19-row (the one used in the 19-row oil cooler kits commonly for this car - where mine came from). I've switched from Nissan's factory Matic-S to the Motul Multi-ATF that Z1's selling. It's one of the very very few aftermarket ATFs to claim Nissan Matic-S compatibility, their marketing materials on it talk specifically about being suitable for latest-generation semi-autos, and I trust their brand at this point, so I expect this to go well. As for the whole dreaded issue with Consult-III temps for fluid change: through some mild experimentation I think I figured out this isn't as bad as it seems. To recap the service manual: you can only swap 3/9 quarts at a time via the drain/fill holes, and a "full change" in the SM is three of those swaps (which leaves 28% old fluid in the mix, that's ok). I'm probably more like 10 quarts with the add-on cooler/lines. After the final fill-to-overflow cold, you're supposed to fire it up, warm up to a Trans Temp of ~104F, roll through the gears in-place, raise the lift, and open up the overflow again to let it spill down and get the level set at that temp. With an IR thermo, you can get close enough for government work. If you shoot the IR thermo at close range on the bottom pan metal near the overflow/refill port itself, you'll read ~5-10 degrees F lower than the actual fluid temp in the pan. So basically, warm it up until that spot on the pan reads around 95-100F. When you pull the plug and start draining if you carefully shoot the dropping fluid up-close, you'll see it around the 100-110 range, which is close enough (the SM allows for some variability there anyways). Keep in mind I was in a garage at reasonable ambient temps around 70-80F and little wind and the car was pretty cold having been on the lift for days and only fired up a few minutes at a time. YMMV in other conditions, esp if the pan/trans is already heat-soaked from previous driving. Setrab 9-Series Oil Cooler fitment Now I know why all the easy-install oil cooler kits use Setrab's 6-series coolers (in 19/25/34-row heights).... I went with a 25-row Series-9 which is considerably wider. It seems like a better airflow fit for our grill opening, since at 25-row you're not getting much more airflow height between the bottom edge and the crash bumper area. The reason most of the kits don't use a Series-9 is it really doesn't fit well at all with our stock radiator core support and that center strut that holds the ambient air temp sensor, etc. I had to do a ton of cutting and customization to make it work. I also added a top-mount by drilling holes in the backside of the crash bumper, so it's mounted (with anti-shock rubber) top and bottom for stability. I suspect the Series-9 25-row is about as ideal as you can get, just be warned there's a reason the kits use the Series-6. Stock up on dremel cut-off wheels and be prepared to do major surgery and relocation of factory bits to fit the Series-9. APRacing/Stillen brake kit notes So far so good, I did ~200 miles of rotor break-in before the car went on the lift for other surgery a couple weeks ago. The one little note I wanted to add, since I discussed this stuff randomly both here and in other threads and never reported the final decisions: I've kept AP's pad clips in all 4 calipers in the end. Apparently it's functionally fine to leave them out for a track car, according to Stillen. I didn't think I'd care about NVH, so why not leave off an excess part that could cause a problem? Because the noise really is worrying. Without the clips the pads bonk around in the calipers a lot. I have a hard time telling whether that's just my clipless rear pads I'm hearing or maybe my suspension is falling apart in the rear because I forgot to torque down a bolt or something. At those kinds of ugly noise levels, IMHO the clips are worth it just to make it easier to diagnose other noises. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details Last edited by wstar; 05-17-2013 at 02:13 AM.

05-16-2013, 10:07 AM	#568 (permalink)
DR_ Track Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Dallas Posts: 981 Drives: Touring/Sport M6 PG Rep Power: 17	I didn't have to cut/fabricate anything for the 25 row Series 9 Setrab to fit well. My guess is that you installed it with the L bracket facing towards the radiator while I installed it facing outside like the way GTM installs it. This is not mine but it is similar.

05-16-2013, 10:49 AM	#569 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3594	Mine is on the "outside" of the core like yours. The big differences between my setup and that picture are: 1) I have my trans cooler on the driver's side and oil cooler on the passenger side (opposite above). The lines are more natural that way (shorter runs). 2) I'm using the same bracket pictured (the one from Setrab themselves), but I used one on the bottom and one on the top (to the back of the alum crash bar, with an extra piece of angle aluminum to mate them up). This limits hose routing options to some degree, but prevents the cooler swaying back and forth on the bottom mount under accel/brake. 3) I had to move my cooler further inboard (towards center post laterally) than that, by about an inch or two, to get the lines to route past it out the same side (one behind, one over the top, and both stock PS cooler lines running behind), and as a result it sticks past the center post an extra inch or two. Thus, had to cut away a fair amount of the center post's depth, including the bracket for the air temp sensor. I ended up putting the air temp sensor in the upper center area between the G3 intakes, so now it's a "that pocket of air up by my intakes" temp sensor, which I imagine will read a bit higher with all the hot air from the various radiators. Between the 9-series 25-row oil cooler and the 6-series 19-row trans cooler, there's only a tiny tiny gap left between the two now. Almost all airflow has to go through those to reach the radiator (well, the trans cooler lets some pass beside/above, but not much). I don't think you could fit 2x 9-series very well at all. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details Last edited by wstar; 05-16-2013 at 10:51 AM.

05-16-2013, 12:11 PM	#570 (permalink)
DR_ Track Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Dallas Posts: 981 Drives: Touring/Sport M6 PG Rep Power: 17	I'm tempted to move my air temp sensor up to the intakes as well. I use that air temp versus the intake temp sensor to get an idea of how much heat soak I have and having the air temp sensor closer to the intake would give me a better indication. Do you have a garage for the TMS event? I'll be in garage 44 and my dad is in garage 26 so I will likely be in one of those two areas. I've got new tires plus the bigger oil cooler so I am excited about this event.

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