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Did a quickie test drive for the pad bedding procedure, everything seems fine. I haven't gotten on them any harder than necessary for bedding yet, but it seems to be
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#1 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
![]() Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 4,024
Drives: too slow
Rep Power: 3595 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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Did a quickie test drive for the pad bedding procedure, everything seems fine. I haven't gotten on them any harder than necessary for bedding yet, but it seems to be stopping at least as good as stock. Pedal's a little mushy at the top, but again I think that's the air bubbles I probably left in the lines
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#2 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
![]() Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: Houston, TX
Posts: 4,024
Drives: too slow
Rep Power: 3595 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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More testing this evening. Brakes work pretty well, the car is certainly safe, but there's also definitely a small leak under high pressure. Driving 10 miles or so and doing lots of hard-ish stops along the way drops the reservoir level about 1-2mm, which is about like what happened during the bedding-in drive. My bet is either I didn't sufficiently tighten one of the bleeder screws, or I over-tightened one of those damn flange connections from the factory hard lines to the braided lines.
I hate those damn flange connections, I over-tightened one on my last car too a few years back. It's not hard to do, and it splits the edge of the flange causing a slow leak under high pressure only. Fix is to cut a fraction of an inch off the end of the line and re-make the flange with a little tool, which I already have from last time. We'll see when I take the wheels off again later in the week for the re-bleed stuff. |
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