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Yeah. Both my RS3's and Conti DW's are 275/35 on 18x10. When I compare the unmounted 265/645's to the mounted DW's (just lining them up with each other on the

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Old 03-18-2014, 02:57 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Yeah. Both my RS3's and Conti DW's are 275/35 on 18x10. When I compare the unmounted 265/645's to the mounted DW's (just lining them up with each other on the floor), the width looks identical. But we'll see what happens when they're mounted. If they do fit, and the sizing is consistent between dry+wet, that makes me think 285/645 might be a tad wide for 10's, but I have no idea. I guess the smart thing to do would be to call Hoosier and ask
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Old 03-18-2014, 05:16 PM   #2 (permalink)
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I didn't find time to call Hoosier, but I did find rim sizing elsewhere on their site for new Hoosier slicks, which is probably identical to this stuff (the Conti is just branding, I think Conti actually owns Hoosier and Hoosier makes all slicks with Conti written on the side?).

In any case, in "recommended rim width" for new Hoosier dry slicks, 265/645R18 is 9-10 and 285/645R18 is 10-12. So they probably work on 10's, maybe a little fat-looking
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Old 03-18-2014, 11:38 PM   #3 (permalink)
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I run 295/40 Hoosiers on my 9.5s and my 10s, so I plan on the same with these.

On the sizing, the 645 is the total tire height, 25.4", which would make the 265s roughly a 35 and the 285s roughly a 32 in common aspect ratios.
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Old 03-18-2014, 11:40 PM   #4 (permalink)
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I have those same wets too. They wouldn't fit on my 18x8s, but I do have them mounted on a set of 18x9s, so 10s will work fine
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Old 03-19-2014, 12:48 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Well, I wasn't planning on buying any dry slicks until at least after I burn through this set of RS3's, but now I'm kinda tempted to stock up on some of those 285's while I can and just store them in the house for a few months
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Old 03-19-2014, 09:19 AM   #6 (permalink)
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exactly. one set is just a fraction more than 1 regular priced hoosier.
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Old 03-19-2014, 11:06 AM   #7 (permalink)
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I was reading up on the compounds and whatnot, those 285/645's are "GT-O", which is supposedly slower rubber than an R6, FYI (whereas their "GT-R" compound is faster, but no discontinued ones of that in the right size). Apparently GT-O was a special compound they did for the high banked oval courses like Daytona. But still, it's cheap, and it's not like I really care about my lap times. My first set of slicks is just going to be about learning whether I can handle driving on slicks or not
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Old 03-20-2014, 08:23 AM   #8 (permalink)
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Signed up for a NASA membership! Tentatively, I think my main schedule for TDE+NASA for the rest of the year looks something like:

Apr 5-6: MSR-Houston - The Driver's Edge
Apr 26-27: Nismo Fiesta @ H2R
May 17-18: TWS - The Driver's Edge
June 21-22: Hallet - NASA
Aug 9-10: TWS - The Driver's Edge
Sep 6-7: TWS - The Driver's Edge
Sep 20-21: NOLA - NASA
Oct 4-5: MSR-Houston - The Driver's Edge
Oct 11-12: TWS - NASA
Nov 1-2: Eagle's Canyon - NASA
Nov 22-23: TWS - The Driver's Edge

I've only signed up for the first three so far. The rest are of course pending work conflicts and such as we get through the year. I'll probably ending up dropping one or two of those events, and I'll probably try to squeeze in a few more TWS visits that don't require as much notice where I can (PDS, PCA).

Hallet's going to be a crazy-long trip for my first NASA event (~8hr drive each way). I had planned to start doing MSR-Cresson w/ TDE this year, which I'm not anymore. I really want to get into NASA's system this year and start working my way up to TT + Comp School there. So I figure that means squeezing in the only 4 NASA events I can reasonably hit this year, which means learning 4 other new tracks for the first time (H2R for NismoFiesta, + NASA @ Hallet, NOLA, ECR). I don't need a 5th new track all in this hectic year (I think I still get better skills-building out of working on known tracks at this point), so Cresson will have to wait for later!
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Old 03-20-2014, 04:44 PM   #9 (permalink)
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That is a lot of track time. Don't get burned out!
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Old 03-20-2014, 05:37 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DR_ View Post
That is a lot of track time. Don't get burned out!
I don't know if it's possible to get burned out on track time, but I'd like to find out This is what keeps me from getting burned out on the rest of life! I will almost certainly end up dropping a couple of those for schedule conflicts eventually, though.

That aside, I feel like I'm at a point where doing several events with less downtime between them will probably help me get over my next few hurdles in driving skill and get to a good comfortable point where I can relax my event pace again. I end up quizzing lots of track junkies, and that seems to be one of the common threads I hear over and over, variations on the theme of "I was kind of stuck at stage X for a little while, then I hit several events back to back in a short period of time and that really accelerated the learning curve and got me past that and my driving really took off". I think the ramp-up in the middle-late part of this year will probably fill that kind of role for me.
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Old 03-20-2014, 07:05 PM   #11 (permalink)
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For any of you other 7AT people out there looking at rear end stuff, I think I finally found the information on the real difference in the rear ends between 7AT and 6MT. This is all "what I think I know right now", it may change as I learn more (or worst case, it may change once I buy parts based on this and find out they don't work!)

Supposedly, the only difference is actually in the thickness of the ring gear itself and the mounting flange on the LSD carrier for that ring gear. Basically the 7AT's 3.357 ring gear is 10mm thicker than the 6MT's 3.692 ring gear, and the thus also the mounting flange for that ring gear is 10mm further to the inside on the 7AT's VLSD vs the 6MT's VLSD.

If this information is actually true, then if you're putting an LSD unit into a 7AT rear end and leaving the stock gears in place, you need 7AT-specific LSD unit that's 10mm shorter at the gear mounting flange. But if you're upgrading to 6MT-size gears anyways, you should be able to drop a 6MT-model LSD (wider) + 6MT gears into the 7AT pumpkin without issue.

Beyond that, it's a matter of figuring out which aftermarket and/or takeoff gear sets from various other Nissans are which thickness, but I think the general rule is that most are the same thickness as our 3.692 6MT rear gear, and the 10mm-thicker 7AT 3.357 is the "special case" (both for our car, and several other Nissan/Infiniti AT cars which have that exact same gear ratio).
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Old 03-22-2014, 07:35 PM   #12 (permalink)
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I don't think you will get burned out at all, but you will be in HPDE=4 by the end of the year with that schedule. Skill builds extremely fast if you can get out a couple times per month.
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Old 03-27-2014, 12:30 PM   #13 (permalink)
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More tire porn! I went ahead and picked up a single set of the 285/645-R18 GT-O's from Hoosier/Conti. Can't beat $110/tire for sticker slicks!



They're a little taller than the 265/645-R18 Wets, but appear to be exactly the same width unmounted. Go figure, but works out good for me I probably won't mount these until my RS3's die sometime in the mid-late summer.
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Old 03-27-2014, 01:09 PM   #14 (permalink)
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nice! let us know how the switch from street tires to slicks go! can't believe it was just a year or two ago you were on continental DW's -> RS3's -> full competition grade rains and slicks!
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Old 03-27-2014, 02:00 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Oh I imagine it will be a little dicey at first, but I'm thinking by the time these RS3's die I should be close enough and be able to deal with it and adapt. Worst case if I can't, I'll pull them off and run through a set of NT01's or something first, then put them back on and try again
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