wstar's Journal

wstar · 01-17-2012, 08:28 PM

Well keep in mind I'm on a 19-row cooler as well. I've seen up to 260 in the later summer so far (at this track), and 250 driving a bit harder/longer in November (same track again). Unfortunately this weekend's forecast is mid-70's even though we're just about in the center of winter, so I expect 250-ish again. I figure 5W40 might do me a little more good than 5W30 at that sort of range. Probably a hair too thick down in the 180-220 sort of range I see DD-ing in the winter, but then again I'm not pushing the engine all that hard DD-ing either, so it's not so critical

Either way the difference between 5W30 and 5W40 isn't likely to be tremendous.

ChrisSlicks · 01-17-2012, 09:16 PM

Yeah the difference isn't huge, still safe for DDing. It should be most helpful in the 230+ temperature range.

370Zfeeler · 03-04-2012, 05:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar

3) The throttle maps (which only work with ETC On obviously) are the "right" way to tune the throttle response without disabling SRM and other ECU interventions. Luckily they're per-UpRev-map, so you can try out different throttle maps on e.g. maps 1, 2, 3 with all the other settings the same to get a feel for how it works.

Wide open seems to be the value "3800", and it seems to need to go negative at low pedal position + high RPMs. Setting it to a nice linear ramp from the stock 1.3% pedal position numbers to 3800's around 95% throttle is much better than stock. Still not quite perfect though. I wish I could find settings that felt as good as "ETC Off" for normal accel / upshift at all ranges.

4) The torque map (for 7AT people only) is how you effectively adjust transmission line pressure and shifting speed. Basically the ECU needs an internal estimate of your engine's torque across different RPM ranges and fueling inputs (effectively, gas pedal position) in order to use the "correct" line pressure and shift speed for a smooth quick shift.

If you've done a lot of modding, the factory torque estimates are way off (and really, even on the stock car, the factory estimates are a little low, which contributes to low RPM downshifts being sounding so violent, and the little jerks when it auto-downshifts to 2 and 1 while coming to a stop).

Secret Services had already bumped my torque map values all up by about 10%. I found that bumping those values by a further 20% has worked out great so far. Shifts are both smoother and faster. Keep in mind I'm out at the limit of N/A bolt-on power mods, so values this high may not work as smoothly for a milder setup (e.g. just catback and K&N dropins or whatever). I may try going even higher, but I want to drive around on these values for several days first and make sure I don't spot any quirks under various conditions.

-About the throttle maps, I'll be copying the specs you posted on THIS thread, seems to be perfect to get rid of the throttle lag.

-I tried doing a search on the torque maping with Uprev but didnt find much, could You please elavorate more on this feature? and please post some pics of the torque maps values You are using at moment

I'm also running on a 7AT, and the set of bolt ons I ordered, are exactly the same You are running, only difference is I'll be running ART Pipes in stead of LTH, and no M370.

wstar · 03-07-2012, 07:11 PM

The Torque Map is basically an estimation of the engine's torque output (in some unknown units) based on RPMs and Fueling. The ECU+TCM use the Torque Map to determine how much hydraulic pressure to apply to the clutches in the transmission. The idea is the car wants to apply enough pressure such that the clutches don't slip, but not so much excessive pressure than they engage too quickly and become jerky. I'm running the stock Torque Map now and it's fine. I don't think you can get to torque values that would slip on the stock map unless you go TT/SC or some sort of built engine.

wstar · 03-07-2012, 07:15 PM

General update:

I've been too overwhelmed lately to have much free time to compose any lucid car update posts. I never even got around to re-encoding my videos from my Jan track weekend for Youtube heh. I did want to note one thing though:

This past weekend was a track weekend at TWS, and I ended up basically scrapping the weekend pretty early over braking issues. I'm still investigating some things on my end, and then after that I need to talk to the vendor(s) involved. Just something to keep in mind if anyone's looking at my parts list: there could be issues with my choice of brake components. Choose wisely. I'll update more once the dust settles out a bit.

SPOHN · 03-07-2012, 07:17 PM

Rotors/ caliper expansion kit?

travisjb · 03-07-2012, 08:37 PM

Two piece rotors........ interested to hear your thoughts and how you get this worked out

wstar · 04-08-2012, 03:18 AM

Installed Stillen's new brake duct kit today. I didn't bother with pics + DIY. I kinda did my own thing with some of it that involved cutting a fair amount of plastic

My thoughts on the kit in general:

1) The dust shield flanges, which are really the key thing this kit gives you, look like they're going to work great. I had some very minor fit issues (more on one side than the other) with the bottom edge of the flange (with the little lip that Stillen puts on that section) hitting the lower suspension arm that's right behind it. Rather than the torque it flat and let it bend, I flattened out a small section of that lip with a hammer to give the necessary clearance. Wasn't hard and doesn't change anything functionally.

It wasn't clear to me whether the supplied ultra-thin shims were meant to correct for factory variance on that particular issue, or to correct on the "other" side (flange face clearance to brake rotor), but they wouldn't have been nearly thick enough on the bad side anyways, so I didn't use them.

2) Zip-ties and wheel clearance: Don't even bother zip-tie-ing down the ductwork in the wheel well until you've put the wheel on and played with the steering and suspension travel. I'm probably a little bit of an extreme case with 18x10 + 275/35's in the front, but it was rather tricky routing it to both cover the full motion range, and not rub the tire at full steering lock in either direction. I thought I had it sorted out before the tire went on, but I was wrong and ended up cutting my zipties and starting over on that bit.

3) Duct routing: IMHO, even following Stillen's directions, things just don't go together very easy. It's not the kit, it's the car. I don't know that they could make it any easier really. Especially on the driver's side, I don't see how merely removing that little 3-snap small panel solves all the issues. You're still going to have to cut plastic somewhere (at a minimum, the slightly larger vertical piece that's accesible from the front, the one you typically route oil/trans cooler hoses through the grommet notch of).

Ultimately I decided that I didn't care much about cutting plastic in the wheel well / bumper interior areas, so I just went ahead and cut holes as necessary to do a more-direct routing of the hose. Mostly the lower inside edge area of the wheel well plastic. It shortened the path and number of bends considerably (I ended up cutting 1-1.5 feet from each of the hoses for final trimming, whereas Stillen guesses 6-8" extra to cut off with "normal" routing and not so much cutting).

The front fang ducts are a nice shape. My factory clip-nut-things that you're supposed to move over to the new fang ducts didn't fit: they were too short for the bolt hole to line up properly. Probably factory variance or year-model variance or something, who knows. I found a different clip/screw combo from my bin of random parts that fit it fine.

Conclusion stuff: I'm really glad Stillen released this kit. It's the first real commercial option we've had for a dust-shield flange attachment behind the rotor. I had a few minor issues with the flange pieces, but nothing that really detracts from the product or was difficult to overcome. The actual duct-hose routing is a mess to deal with. It's not their fault, it just really sucks to route those hoses on this car, and while the 2" hose they selected certainly makes it easier than the 2.5" I was trying to use before, it's still a PITA.

It's definitely DIY-able (obviously), but with the hose routing issues I wouldn't call it an easy bolt-on job. You need to have a wide array of tools at your disposal, and you're going to need to stop and think and plan and re-plan as you go. It's not a "follow steps 1, 2, 3, and you're done" kind of install. Be wary of doing it yourself at home if you're not well-equipped and familiar with this area of the car and maybe even willing to make some cuts

.

SPOHN · 04-08-2012, 09:31 AM

I didn't have any issues with the dust shield. But you and I run totally different rotor setups. I didn't see a point in the shims either so I tossed them.

The ducting wasn't bad. I ran it at full lock then tucked it in with the ties. I ended up cutting the slack out at the front flanges insted so I could manipulate the hoses in the wheel well until all was complete. But here again I run a 19x9.5 on 265 tire. But stil have lots of clearence.

I flirted with the idea of making a cut in the fender well but decided against. Good thing I could always still do it. It is a tight fit the way Stillen does it but it will be fine being they did all the testing in this location and got the claimed results.

wstar · 04-08-2012, 12:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SPOHN

I didn't have any issues with the dust shield. But you and I run totally different rotor setups. I didn't see a point in the shims either so I tossed them.

Well, my issue wasn't rotor related. Now I wish I took pics

. But I'm referring to the curled up "edges" on the back (away from the rotor) side of the metal outcropping that holds the flange, hitting the fixed (relative to it) suspension member behind it.

Quote:

The ducting wasn't bad. I ran it at full lock then tucked it in with the ties. I ended up cutting the slack out at the front flanges insted so I could manipulate the hoses in the wheel well until all was complete. But here again I run a 19x9.5 on 265 tire. But stil have lots of clearence.

Yeah I did my cutting at the front as well, way easier. Did you route as their pics show (i.e. the final tie on the lower suspension around way out to the back)? That was what caused the most problems for me. There didn't seem to be any way to tie down out there and have both enough slack for the stretch direction, and not have it crumple up right into the side of the tire in the opposite lock direction. Your tires aren't that much skinnier than mine, either. Did you check the "short" steering direction not rubbing?

Quote:

I flirted with the idea of making a cut in the fender well but decided against. Good thing I could always still do it. It is a tight fit the way Stillen does it but it will be fine being they did all the testing in this location and got the claimed results.

Yeah I don't get this at all. On the passenger side, I could've done a tight fit with just Stillen's recommendation (removing that small plastic square) and doing some extra bends. But on the driver's side, even when you remove the little plastic square in the wheel well, that only solves half the problem. There was no other hole on the other side (more towards the bumper) to reach that area in the first place, without cutting the vertical plastic piece that has the little built in round hole in it. Did you just force the hose to work with that hole? Seemed small for it to me, but it was moot since I have cooler lines running through there already, and both certainly can't fit.

SPOHN · 04-08-2012, 01:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar

Yeah I did my cutting at the front as well, way easier. Did you route as their pics show (i.e. the final tie on the lower suspension around way out to the back)? That was what caused the most problems for me. There didn't seem to be any way to tie down out there and have both enough slack for the stretch direction, and not have it crumple up right into the side of the tire in the opposite lock direction. Your tires aren't that much skinnier than mine, either. Did you check the "short" steering direction not rubbing?

I see what your saying. It is funny and this is where every inch matters. After full lock I got a tad bit more and count on the duct to flex as it should to work. Here's some pics.

This is the full lock and I installed the tie around the lower coilover bracket.

Here's when wheel is straight.

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar

Yeah I don't get this at all. On the passenger side, I could've done a tight fit with just Stillen's recommendation (removing that small plastic square) and doing some extra bends. But on the driver's side, even when you remove the little plastic square in the wheel well, that only solves half the problem. There was no other hole on the other side (more towards the bumper) to reach that area in the first place, without cutting the vertical plastic piece that has the little built in round hole in it. Did you just force the hose to work with that hole? Seemed small for it to me, but it was moot since I have cooler lines running through there already, and both certainly can't fit.

It is very tight and you have to use the push pull technique to get threw as you see above. Below is a pic of passenger side.

wstar · 04-08-2012, 10:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SPOHN

After full lock I got a tad bit more and count on the duct to flex as it should to work. Here's some pics.

Ah, I see what made that work for you that I didn't do: that last tie going around near the base of the shock absorber. Mine would "bulge" out in that area when turned the other way (compressed instead of stretched), rubbing into the wheel. I solved it a different way, we'll see how my routing holds up

As soon as I get my parts to finish up my rotor business I'll be back in the wheel wells again and get some photos.

Quote:

It is very tight and you have to use the push pull technique to get threw as you see above. Below is a pic of passenger side.

Yeah I get that on the passenger side, I routed it like that once before I just decided to cut things and go straight. But the driver's side, I don't even see a hole to squish through. Unless you're talking about sending the pipe up very high (over some other plastic bits, several inches "up" out of its natural line).

wstar · 04-16-2012, 03:02 PM

Over the weekend, I de-installed the Relentless 2-piece brake rotor kit at all four corners. Switched to Z1 motorsports relatively cheap, good quality 1-piece slotted OEM replacements: Akebono 370Z/G37 Sport Package Performance Rotors.

I don't want to get into a big vendor bash side-debate here. Let's just say the scientific data from my end is inconclusive on whether any quality problems in the RA rotors themselves contributed to my issues. I don't think RA has sold enough 370Z rotors in total for anyone to make any statistical argument about the quality level, either, so it's a crapshoot from that perspective. Let's just say in the end the total package of their business model, product, and pricing isn't matching up well with my needs. A good deal of that has to do with their turnaround time on shipping out parts, too.

I'm not planning to re-install the RA rotors. If someone else wants to buy the re-usable aluminum hats and rear caliper upgrade hardware to try out the system themselves, they could buy a fresh set of RA's outer rings to go with them. The fronts are 10 lbs unsprung/rotating weight lighter per rotor than OEM equivalents, so there is that going for them. Otherwise I'll see if RA wants to buy them back as inventory (no flaws with those bits for sure), but that seems unlikely, or just junk them and write off the cost as a lesson learned.

In any case, I've re-bedded on the new Z1 rotors, and everything's much healthier now. I re-used the XP8's I already had for rear pads since they have tons of life on them and the rear RA rings were still in good shape when I took them off. In the front I was concerned the pads were degraded from spending a couple months mating with the front RA rings, and I wanted to upgrade heat ranges anyways, so that's bedded with a fresh set of XP10s. I might clean up and resurface the takeoff front XP8's since they have a lot of thickness left, and keep them as backup front pads to take to the track with me.

XP10+XP8 feels pretty good, the front bite's not as scary as I was worried it would be, it's fine with street tires and still easy to modulate. 6 days to back on the track again at MSR Houston. Need to re-bleed again after a couple more days of working the system out, and get an oil change in, and I'm good to go.

Being paranoid about wasting any further track weekends on unexpected brake issues, I was extremely analytical and careful with the new rotor installations. I took dial-gauge runout reading on all 4 rotors and thickness variation data, etc, and did some indexing of the mounting rotation offset to minimize the runout. Everything's way way below OEM spec limits. My worst corner is at .004" runout prior to bedding measured all the way out at the edge, and even that I think was reduced slightly with the wheel torqued on top (as opposed to lightly torquing lugnuts onto the brake rotor itself when measuring). The OEM spec limit is .014" a bit in from the edge (center of pad swept area, basically). So, measurably, these are good rotors in manufacturing quality terms.

Equinox · 04-16-2012, 09:04 PM

Glad to see you back in the confidence zone with your set up. Enjoy those track days!

SPOHN · 04-16-2012, 09:13 PM

Good deal wstar. I also run on the same Z1 rotors with 4 track days and several thousand miles of DD. Been holding up great for me. I also just installed the XP 10's on the front. Need to bed them in this weekend. Glad to hear the bite isn't crazy bad.

Once those rotors wear I have some brand new Stillen J hook rotors that someone sold to me for $200. What a deal. I got lucky. He actually won them at Z Nationals and sold them to me.

01-17-2012, 08:28 PM	#466 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3594	Well keep in mind I'm on a 19-row cooler as well. I've seen up to 260 in the later summer so far (at this track), and 250 driving a bit harder/longer in November (same track again). Unfortunately this weekend's forecast is mid-70's even though we're just about in the center of winter, so I expect 250-ish again. I figure 5W40 might do me a little more good than 5W30 at that sort of range. Probably a hair too thick down in the 180-220 sort of range I see DD-ing in the winter, but then again I'm not pushing the engine all that hard DD-ing either, so it's not so critical Either way the difference between 5W30 and 5W40 isn't likely to be tremendous. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

01-17-2012, 09:16 PM	#467 (permalink)
ChrisSlicks A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: North East Posts: 6,203 Drives: 09 370Z Sport M6 Rep Power: 653	Yeah the difference isn't huge, still safe for DDing. It should be most helpful in the 230+ temperature range. __________________ Hotchkis ARB \| Stillen CAI \| Art Pipes \| Berk CBE \| Stillen AP Racing Brakes \| AE Performance Oil Cooler \| BC Racing ER Coilovers \| Doran Control Arms

03-07-2012, 07:11 PM	#469 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3594	The Torque Map is basically an estimation of the engine's torque output (in some unknown units) based on RPMs and Fueling. The ECU+TCM use the Torque Map to determine how much hydraulic pressure to apply to the clutches in the transmission. The idea is the car wants to apply enough pressure such that the clutches don't slip, but not so much excessive pressure than they engage too quickly and become jerky. I'm running the stock Torque Map now and it's fine. I don't think you can get to torque values that would slip on the stock map unless you go TT/SC or some sort of built engine. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

03-07-2012, 07:15 PM	#470 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3594	General update: I've been too overwhelmed lately to have much free time to compose any lucid car update posts. I never even got around to re-encoding my videos from my Jan track weekend for Youtube heh. I did want to note one thing though: This past weekend was a track weekend at TWS, and I ended up basically scrapping the weekend pretty early over braking issues. I'm still investigating some things on my end, and then after that I need to talk to the vendor(s) involved. Just something to keep in mind if anyone's looking at my parts list: there could be issues with my choice of brake components. Choose wisely. I'll update more once the dust settles out a bit. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

03-07-2012, 07:17 PM	#471 (permalink)
SPOHN A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Covington, GA Age: 46 Posts: 14,844 Drives: Waiting on next Z Rep Power: 221	Rotors/ caliper expansion kit? __________________ Last edited by SPOHN; 03-07-2012 at 07:30 PM.

03-07-2012, 08:37 PM	#472 (permalink)
travisjb A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: GSO Posts: 2,803 Drives: VIR Rep Power: 188	Two piece rotors........ interested to hear your thoughts and how you get this worked out __________________ 2009 370Z #104 For Sale

04-08-2012, 03:18 AM	#473 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3594	Installed Stillen's new brake duct kit today. I didn't bother with pics + DIY. I kinda did my own thing with some of it that involved cutting a fair amount of plastic My thoughts on the kit in general: 1) The dust shield flanges, which are really the key thing this kit gives you, look like they're going to work great. I had some very minor fit issues (more on one side than the other) with the bottom edge of the flange (with the little lip that Stillen puts on that section) hitting the lower suspension arm that's right behind it. Rather than the torque it flat and let it bend, I flattened out a small section of that lip with a hammer to give the necessary clearance. Wasn't hard and doesn't change anything functionally. It wasn't clear to me whether the supplied ultra-thin shims were meant to correct for factory variance on that particular issue, or to correct on the "other" side (flange face clearance to brake rotor), but they wouldn't have been nearly thick enough on the bad side anyways, so I didn't use them. 2) Zip-ties and wheel clearance: Don't even bother zip-tie-ing down the ductwork in the wheel well until you've put the wheel on and played with the steering and suspension travel. I'm probably a little bit of an extreme case with 18x10 + 275/35's in the front, but it was rather tricky routing it to both cover the full motion range, and not rub the tire at full steering lock in either direction. I thought I had it sorted out before the tire went on, but I was wrong and ended up cutting my zipties and starting over on that bit. 3) Duct routing: IMHO, even following Stillen's directions, things just don't go together very easy. It's not the kit, it's the car. I don't know that they could make it any easier really. Especially on the driver's side, I don't see how merely removing that little 3-snap small panel solves all the issues. You're still going to have to cut plastic somewhere (at a minimum, the slightly larger vertical piece that's accesible from the front, the one you typically route oil/trans cooler hoses through the grommet notch of). Ultimately I decided that I didn't care much about cutting plastic in the wheel well / bumper interior areas, so I just went ahead and cut holes as necessary to do a more-direct routing of the hose. Mostly the lower inside edge area of the wheel well plastic. It shortened the path and number of bends considerably (I ended up cutting 1-1.5 feet from each of the hoses for final trimming, whereas Stillen guesses 6-8" extra to cut off with "normal" routing and not so much cutting). The front fang ducts are a nice shape. My factory clip-nut-things that you're supposed to move over to the new fang ducts didn't fit: they were too short for the bolt hole to line up properly. Probably factory variance or year-model variance or something, who knows. I found a different clip/screw combo from my bin of random parts that fit it fine. Conclusion stuff: I'm really glad Stillen released this kit. It's the first real commercial option we've had for a dust-shield flange attachment behind the rotor. I had a few minor issues with the flange pieces, but nothing that really detracts from the product or was difficult to overcome. The actual duct-hose routing is a mess to deal with. It's not their fault, it just really sucks to route those hoses on this car, and while the 2" hose they selected certainly makes it easier than the 2.5" I was trying to use before, it's still a PITA. It's definitely DIY-able (obviously), but with the hose routing issues I wouldn't call it an easy bolt-on job. You need to have a wide array of tools at your disposal, and you're going to need to stop and think and plan and re-plan as you go. It's not a "follow steps 1, 2, 3, and you're done" kind of install. Be wary of doing it yourself at home if you're not well-equipped and familiar with this area of the car and maybe even willing to make some cuts . __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

04-08-2012, 09:31 AM	#474 (permalink)
SPOHN A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Covington, GA Age: 46 Posts: 14,844 Drives: Waiting on next Z Rep Power: 221	I didn't have any issues with the dust shield. But you and I run totally different rotor setups. I didn't see a point in the shims either so I tossed them. The ducting wasn't bad. I ran it at full lock then tucked it in with the ties. I ended up cutting the slack out at the front flanges insted so I could manipulate the hoses in the wheel well until all was complete. But here again I run a 19x9.5 on 265 tire. But stil have lots of clearence. I flirted with the idea of making a cut in the fender well but decided against. Good thing I could always still do it. It is a tight fit the way Stillen does it but it will be fine being they did all the testing in this location and got the claimed results. __________________

04-16-2012, 03:02 PM	#478 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3594	Over the weekend, I de-installed the Relentless 2-piece brake rotor kit at all four corners. Switched to Z1 motorsports relatively cheap, good quality 1-piece slotted OEM replacements: Akebono 370Z/G37 Sport Package Performance Rotors. I don't want to get into a big vendor bash side-debate here. Let's just say the scientific data from my end is inconclusive on whether any quality problems in the RA rotors themselves contributed to my issues. I don't think RA has sold enough 370Z rotors in total for anyone to make any statistical argument about the quality level, either, so it's a crapshoot from that perspective. Let's just say in the end the total package of their business model, product, and pricing isn't matching up well with my needs. A good deal of that has to do with their turnaround time on shipping out parts, too. I'm not planning to re-install the RA rotors. If someone else wants to buy the re-usable aluminum hats and rear caliper upgrade hardware to try out the system themselves, they could buy a fresh set of RA's outer rings to go with them. The fronts are 10 lbs unsprung/rotating weight lighter per rotor than OEM equivalents, so there is that going for them. Otherwise I'll see if RA wants to buy them back as inventory (no flaws with those bits for sure), but that seems unlikely, or just junk them and write off the cost as a lesson learned. In any case, I've re-bedded on the new Z1 rotors, and everything's much healthier now. I re-used the XP8's I already had for rear pads since they have tons of life on them and the rear RA rings were still in good shape when I took them off. In the front I was concerned the pads were degraded from spending a couple months mating with the front RA rings, and I wanted to upgrade heat ranges anyways, so that's bedded with a fresh set of XP10s. I might clean up and resurface the takeoff front XP8's since they have a lot of thickness left, and keep them as backup front pads to take to the track with me. XP10+XP8 feels pretty good, the front bite's not as scary as I was worried it would be, it's fine with street tires and still easy to modulate. 6 days to back on the track again at MSR Houston. Need to re-bleed again after a couple more days of working the system out, and get an oil change in, and I'm good to go. Being paranoid about wasting any further track weekends on unexpected brake issues, I was extremely analytical and careful with the new rotor installations. I took dial-gauge runout reading on all 4 rotors and thickness variation data, etc, and did some indexing of the mounting rotation offset to minimize the runout. Everything's way way below OEM spec limits. My worst corner is at .004" runout prior to bedding measured all the way out at the edge, and even that I think was reduced slightly with the wheel torqued on top (as opposed to lightly torquing lugnuts onto the brake rotor itself when measuring). The OEM spec limit is .014" a bit in from the edge (center of pad swept area, basically). So, measurably, these are good rotors in manufacturing quality terms. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details Last edited by wstar; 04-16-2012 at 03:20 PM.

04-16-2012, 09:04 PM	#479 (permalink)
Equinox Track Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Beaumont, TX Posts: 685 Drives: 06 Porsche Carrera S Rep Power: 18	Glad to see you back in the confidence zone with your set up. Enjoy those track days! __________________ Check out my Albums '13 Subaru WRX STi \| '06 Porsche 911 Carrera S (SOLD) \| '96 Mazda RX-7 6.0L V8 RHD (SOLD) \| '09 Nissan Nismo #0058 (SOLD)

04-16-2012, 09:13 PM	#480 (permalink)
SPOHN A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Covington, GA Age: 46 Posts: 14,844 Drives: Waiting on next Z Rep Power: 221	Good deal wstar. I also run on the same Z1 rotors with 4 track days and several thousand miles of DD. Been holding up great for me. I also just installed the XP 10's on the front. Need to bed them in this weekend. Glad to hear the bite isn't crazy bad. Once those rotors wear I have some brand new Stillen J hook rotors that someone sold to me for $200. What a deal. I got lucky. He actually won them at Z Nationals and sold them to me. __________________

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