wstar's Journal

wstar · 04-22-2009, 07:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by miguez

Hey wstar,

So what do you figure those closed-off duct openings on the bumper are? I don't have my Z yet so I can only guess from pictures.

No idea. Some people have mentioned in other threads that it's probably a poor idea to open them arbitrarily, as you'll likely just gain wind resistance for nothing. RCZ is looking at making some ducting to open them and route the air to cool the front brakes, which might be worth it.

With an otherwise stock config, all it's going to do is open up more airflow into the radiator area, and off to the sides at that, so not very effective. There's no open path from them towards the brakes on the stock car, some things will have to be cut or moved to make room.

wstar · 05-21-2009, 01:31 PM

Got a box from CZP today, brake stuffz. Probably won't get installed for another week or so, need to coordinate with a friend. Swapping fluid solo is a total PITA, better to have two sets of hands.

ChrisSlicks · 05-21-2009, 01:47 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar

Got a box from CZP today, brake stuffz. Probably won't get installed for another week or so, need to coordinate with a friend. Swapping fluid solo is a total PITA, better to have two sets of hands.

Definitely. I usually put the wife to work but after a while she starts complaining about her leg getting tired

I ordered the rotors today, if I get them before next weekend I will see if they handle the heat any better than the stock ones do.

travisjb · 05-21-2009, 01:48 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar

Got a box from CZP today, brake stuffz. Probably won't get installed for another week or so, need to coordinate with a friend. Swapping fluid solo is a total PITA, better to have two sets of hands.

Get some speedbleeder valves ! Makes the job SUPER easy

wstar · 05-21-2009, 01:54 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by travisjb

Get some speedbleeder valves ! Makes the job SUPER easy

I've never used them before, but now that you mention it, it's tempting. I remember another thread someone mentioned part# SB1010 from speedbleeder.com. Do we know for sure these work with the Sports brake setup on the 370, or is it just a guess so far?

wstar · 06-19-2009, 10:02 PM

Installed my Hotchki's swaybars this evening, haven't done the test drive yet, but that's coming up in about 30 minutes when I go out for a late dinner. Didn't bother taking pics, the existing DIYs by ChrisSlicks described everything pretty well (nice work on those btw):

http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...ion-front.html

http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...tion-rear.html

I set my rear sway in the middle position for now since the rest of the suspension setup is all stock, we'll see how it feels shortly.

wstar · 06-19-2009, 11:38 PM

Got some test driving in on the swaybars. Very impressed so far, could easily be one of the best bang for the $$ (and installation difficulty) upgrades I've done yet (although it's hard to beat the HFCs in that regard I guess).

Car is much more predictable and flat under acceleration in corners (not that it was that unpredictable to begin with). With the current medium setting in the rear and an otherwise stock suspension/tire setup, the car seems to have slightly shifted in favor of oversteer if anything, but not by much. I'll be able to tell better after a few more trips. One particular corner that I often fly through has an abrupt change in pavement grade (as in angle) between two lanes I swoop through, which when driving at my usual comfort limit causes the car to "skip" a little, which is somewhat unsettling. At the same speed with the new sways, the tires stayed planted all the way through it, which was really pleasing.

Again, very happy with the results for the money and time invested, and definitely worth the weight tradeoff too (these are heavier than stock).

wstar · 07-02-2009, 10:03 AM

Actually I'm not going to do a DIY on the oil cooler. For one, I didn't get enough pics since my camera screen died early in that process. But also, RCZ already has plenty of pics, and the Stillen instructions do a decent job of telling you what to do. I'm just going to make some notes and addendums, some of which might only make sense when you've got the parts in front of you and you've read the instructions already:

First, here's the pics in RCZ's thread of his install. Note that he moved the power steering cooler off to the side, whereas the Stillen instructions leave it behind the oil cooler, which is what I did (because I may install other cooler kits from them on the other side later, like the 7AT one):

RCZ's oil cooler install pics

As far as oil hose routing goes, my path (after consulting with Stillen for clarification, as the instructions give only vague details from another car that don't work for us) is very similar to RCZ's. Like his, I used the 45 degree connectors at the sandwich plate and the 90 degree connectors at the cooler, facing "backwards". The only difference at the oil filter side is that I rotated the sandwich plate so that the hose connections are more towards the front of the car instead of directly below the filter, to make filter access easier. At the cooler side, with the power steering cooler relocated behind the oil cooler per the standard Stillen setup, the far line needs to go in front of the vertical bar that runs down the center of this area, rather than behind it. This keeps it from hitting the PS cooler.

Re: relocating the PS cooler (one of the first things you do once the bumper is off), be sure to buy a quart or two of replacement fluid before you start, as you will lose a ton of PS fluid while you're extending the lines. The Service Manual indicates either a Nissan-branded PS fluid, or Dexron VI ATF (auto trans fluid), which is what I used.

And in case it isn't obvious (eventually) from the parts provided and the instructions, you want to re-use the little black rubber grommets from the factory PS cooler mounts inside of the padded clamps provided by Stillen. You need to use the self-tapping screw (with a spacer) for the bottom/left mounting point, and you need to drill a hole in that vertical peice of metal and use the long M6 screw + nut from the kit for the other mountpoint. Be sure to put some wood in front of the radiator when you drill this hole, as the drill is likely to jump through and try to drill your radiator too

Also, it helps to buy a bunch of extra rubber hose (and slit it), or something of the sort, and lots of extra zipties, and use these supplies to insulate the oil cooler lines anywhere they come near a peice of metal, or even might under vibration and G-forces. Be especially sure to shield them where they come near the metal power steering lines, as the braided lines can eat through those power steering lines if they rub on them.

The final and most perplexing thing I ran into: When I first started the car after refilling the oil (you do this in stages btw, as descibed a few posts above, as the lines/cooler fill up), there was a chattering noise coming from the engine.

I initially thought this was some valvetrain chatter from lack of oil while the cooler filled up, which would go away quickly. It didn't go away quickly, even after the oil system was fully filled and pressurized and seemed to be working ok otherwise, and even after letting the engine warm up fully. I was really scared that I had done something dumb, like somehow managed to cause an oiling problem up top (who knows, like, maybe some small something fell into an oil hose while I was working, then shot up into the oil system and blocked an oil passage? Your mind thinks of all kinds of horrible scenarios at this point).

Turns out the noise wasn't coming from the engine at all. It was coming from the power steering pump. When you relocate the PS cooler and thus drain and refill most of the PS fluid, it leaves air in the system, which causes the PS pump to make awful chattering noises. There's a procedure in the Service Manual for this.

What it basically boils down to: with the engine off (but key "ON" to unlock steering wheel), turn the wheel all the way to the left and hold 3 seconds, then all the way right and hold 3 seconds, then back to the center. Top off fluid if necessary. Start engine, and redo the above procedure with the engine on. Now the chattering is gone and you're very relieved

wstar · 07-02-2009, 12:24 PM

Got a better test drive in this morning by the way, with a little more confidence and more aggressive driving. It's really hot out, but it was only a short drive so nothing definitive on oil temps yet. I will say it takes for-freaking-ever to warm up the oil from overnight cold now. I waited till it got to 150 before pulling out of the garage. It got to about 160 in the mile to the gas station. left it running, was 165 when I came back out 5 minutes later. Then I went ahead and went all out for the two miles on the way home. It peaked at 190, and took its sweet time getting there. I suspect on a longer and harder drive it will get considerably higher than that, but it's a good sign and a good start

wstar · 07-02-2009, 01:47 PM

More mini-updates:

Did some more driving today, in the just-after-noon super-heat. Ambient temp was 104 rolling (not parked). Got some good aggressive driving in, although not to the level of the torture tests I did pre-cooler to hit 260. Oil temp peaked at 220, and was generally very "stable" as predicted. It moves up very slowly, unlike before where running through 1-2 gears at WOT would cause visible fast movement of the needle. Given the deadly heat today, I think it performed admirably.

I'm noticing my 7AT overheating more now too. Usually the engine would get up in the 240-250 range first, causing me to back off of the hard shifting, and then I wouldn't notice the 7AT so much. After the engine sat at 220 for a while with me still driving aggressive, the 7AT started getting soft on downshifts, which I've taken to be an indicator of very hot fluid. I guess a transmission cooler is in order next

Also, I forgot to turn my radar detector back on from when I was working in the garage the past few days. As a result, I got an insultingly low 80 in a 65 ticket from a motorcycle cop on the way home when I was just cruising lazily in freeway traffic. I had no idea he was there until it was too late with the V1 off. He was pretty nice about it though, just wanted to churn out that ticket and move on, no big hassles. So now I have my first Z ticket, probably the first of many

I should be good to wipe this one out with defensive driving anyways.

wstar · 07-27-2009, 05:11 PM

Went ahead and ordered a laser test unit off the web, it's easier that way: Hand Held Laser Tester - Laser Jammers at Radar Busters

Also, got my order in to add a Mocal thermo plate to my Stillen kit to get my warmup times down at the next oil change. Parts list from racerpartswholesale.com if anyone's looking for the same:

Qty Item # Description Price
1 MOC-SP1FT Mocal Sandwich Plate- 20mm Thread $86.95
2 MOC-2BM808A Mocal 1/2" x -8 ORB fitting $31.98

Edited much later to remove an unnecessary and incorrect part from this list above.

wstar · 07-29-2009, 06:12 PM

Laser tester linked above came in today, I like it. Very simple unit, 9V battery and one button, runs through four styles of laser-speed-gun pulsing in sequence when you hold down the button, roughly $50. It's no substitute for actual testing with a police laser gun at range, but sure is a nice measure of reassurance that things are basically functioning correctly. Both my V1 and my Blinder went off as expected.

wstar · 12-23-2009, 06:11 PM

Updating my long-neglected journal. Nothing significant has changed on the car recently. I'm at 13.5K miles, been through a couple more changes of Motul 300V. All the current parts are holding up great, car still runs like a bat out of hell.

Forgestar wheels arrived recently, but in 18x10 + 18x11 sizes. That means going back to 285/30ZR18 + 315/30ZR18 Michelin PS2's if I keep these larger wheels, assuming the offsets on them look good (need to go measure that and calculate it out soon).

Probably won't deal with the above until sometime in Jan.

Also, I see FI released longtube headers. I'm gonna have to get in on that at some point too, but it may be even longer until I do.

ChrisSlicks · 12-24-2009, 11:43 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar

Forgestar wheels arrived recently, but in 18x10 + 18x11 sizes. That means going back to 285/30ZR18 + 315/30ZR18 Michelin PS2's if I keep these larger wheels, assuming the offsets on them look good (need to go measure that and calculate it out soon).

Those are my wheels, hand them over!

If they send me a 9.5 front instead of the 10" I ordered then we'll swap and make Forgestar pay the shipping.

wstar · 04-09-2011, 12:22 PM

Hi guys, I'm not dead yet

Just been busy with everything else in life and neglecting my 370Z, so there hasn't been much to add here the past year. (Neglecting to upgrade, not neglecting to drive and maintain).

The Z's at 17,532 miles now. All of the mods are still there and hanging in just fine, no new problems. I actually haven't been driving as much as I'd like, oil changes have been going every 3 months instead of by mileage.

The Forgestar wheels (18x10/18x11) did finally go on the car some months back. After re-re-re-evaluating my tire options for the 43rd time, I actually ended up trying out Continental's ExtremeContact DW in 275/35 + 295/35. They had pretty good ratings on TireRack.com, the design looked good, and they're pretty cheap as far as these kinds of tires go. The tires have been awesome at least in aggressive street driving, and I'm really happy with the grip and balance of the car on this setup.

As far as tire/wheel fitment and looks go: with the 18x10 F14's + 275/35 up front, the tire rubber is actually sticking out just a little more than "flush" from the body. It's not much, we're talking less than a centimeter, but you can tell. I do wonder if this has any aerodynamic effect worth even thinking about. The rears fit in just fine. If anything, on my next set of tires I'll probably step up the tire width a bit (305?), since there's still room left.

I'm looking to probably go for another round of upgrades this summer, I'll have some time and attention free. I have a lot of catching up to do on the latest forum trends on what's fashionable to add to the car these days

So far from a quick perusal, it looks like I might try out that M370 manifold and FI's long-tube headers, and then get an UpRev tune and be done with engine stuff. Still needs suspension upgrades too. I've been on the fence about trying out an SC kit the past several months, but the threads here about 7AT damage with them is putting me off of that for now. Even if someone strengthens the 7AT, that's probably a large chunk of added cost. Have to see how it all adds up once that's available.

Nice to see the forums are still rockin along without me.

05-21-2009, 01:31 PM	#2 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3595	Got a box from CZP today, brake stuffz. Probably won't get installed for another week or so, need to coordinate with a friend. Swapping fluid solo is a total PITA, better to have two sets of hands. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

06-19-2009, 10:02 PM	#6 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3595	Installed my Hotchki's swaybars this evening, haven't done the test drive yet, but that's coming up in about 30 minutes when I go out for a late dinner. Didn't bother taking pics, the existing DIYs by ChrisSlicks described everything pretty well (nice work on those btw): http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...ion-front.html http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...tion-rear.html I set my rear sway in the middle position for now since the rest of the suspension setup is all stock, we'll see how it feels shortly. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

06-19-2009, 11:38 PM	#7 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3595	Got some test driving in on the swaybars. Very impressed so far, could easily be one of the best bang for the $$ (and installation difficulty) upgrades I've done yet (although it's hard to beat the HFCs in that regard I guess). Car is much more predictable and flat under acceleration in corners (not that it was that unpredictable to begin with). With the current medium setting in the rear and an otherwise stock suspension/tire setup, the car seems to have slightly shifted in favor of oversteer if anything, but not by much. I'll be able to tell better after a few more trips. One particular corner that I often fly through has an abrupt change in pavement grade (as in angle) between two lanes I swoop through, which when driving at my usual comfort limit causes the car to "skip" a little, which is somewhat unsettling. At the same speed with the new sways, the tires stayed planted all the way through it, which was really pleasing. Again, very happy with the results for the money and time invested, and definitely worth the weight tradeoff too (these are heavier than stock). __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

07-02-2009, 10:03 AM	#8 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3595	Actually I'm not going to do a DIY on the oil cooler. For one, I didn't get enough pics since my camera screen died early in that process. But also, RCZ already has plenty of pics, and the Stillen instructions do a decent job of telling you what to do. I'm just going to make some notes and addendums, some of which might only make sense when you've got the parts in front of you and you've read the instructions already: First, here's the pics in RCZ's thread of his install. Note that he moved the power steering cooler off to the side, whereas the Stillen instructions leave it behind the oil cooler, which is what I did (because I may install other cooler kits from them on the other side later, like the 7AT one): RCZ's oil cooler install pics As far as oil hose routing goes, my path (after consulting with Stillen for clarification, as the instructions give only vague details from another car that don't work for us) is very similar to RCZ's. Like his, I used the 45 degree connectors at the sandwich plate and the 90 degree connectors at the cooler, facing "backwards". The only difference at the oil filter side is that I rotated the sandwich plate so that the hose connections are more towards the front of the car instead of directly below the filter, to make filter access easier. At the cooler side, with the power steering cooler relocated behind the oil cooler per the standard Stillen setup, the far line needs to go in front of the vertical bar that runs down the center of this area, rather than behind it. This keeps it from hitting the PS cooler. Re: relocating the PS cooler (one of the first things you do once the bumper is off), be sure to buy a quart or two of replacement fluid before you start, as you will lose a ton of PS fluid while you're extending the lines. The Service Manual indicates either a Nissan-branded PS fluid, or Dexron VI ATF (auto trans fluid), which is what I used. And in case it isn't obvious (eventually) from the parts provided and the instructions, you want to re-use the little black rubber grommets from the factory PS cooler mounts inside of the padded clamps provided by Stillen. You need to use the self-tapping screw (with a spacer) for the bottom/left mounting point, and you need to drill a hole in that vertical peice of metal and use the long M6 screw + nut from the kit for the other mountpoint. Be sure to put some wood in front of the radiator when you drill this hole, as the drill is likely to jump through and try to drill your radiator too Also, it helps to buy a bunch of extra rubber hose (and slit it), or something of the sort, and lots of extra zipties, and use these supplies to insulate the oil cooler lines anywhere they come near a peice of metal, or even might under vibration and G-forces. Be especially sure to shield them where they come near the metal power steering lines, as the braided lines can eat through those power steering lines if they rub on them. The final and most perplexing thing I ran into: When I first started the car after refilling the oil (you do this in stages btw, as descibed a few posts above, as the lines/cooler fill up), there was a chattering noise coming from the engine. I initially thought this was some valvetrain chatter from lack of oil while the cooler filled up, which would go away quickly. It didn't go away quickly, even after the oil system was fully filled and pressurized and seemed to be working ok otherwise, and even after letting the engine warm up fully. I was really scared that I had done something dumb, like somehow managed to cause an oiling problem up top (who knows, like, maybe some small something fell into an oil hose while I was working, then shot up into the oil system and blocked an oil passage? Your mind thinks of all kinds of horrible scenarios at this point). Turns out the noise wasn't coming from the engine at all. It was coming from the power steering pump. When you relocate the PS cooler and thus drain and refill most of the PS fluid, it leaves air in the system, which causes the PS pump to make awful chattering noises. There's a procedure in the Service Manual for this. What it basically boils down to: with the engine off (but key "ON" to unlock steering wheel), turn the wheel all the way to the left and hold 3 seconds, then all the way right and hold 3 seconds, then back to the center. Top off fluid if necessary. Start engine, and redo the above procedure with the engine on. Now the chattering is gone and you're very relieved __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

07-02-2009, 12:24 PM	#9 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3595	Got a better test drive in this morning by the way, with a little more confidence and more aggressive driving. It's really hot out, but it was only a short drive so nothing definitive on oil temps yet. I will say it takes for-freaking-ever to warm up the oil from overnight cold now. I waited till it got to 150 before pulling out of the garage. It got to about 160 in the mile to the gas station. left it running, was 165 when I came back out 5 minutes later. Then I went ahead and went all out for the two miles on the way home. It peaked at 190, and took its sweet time getting there. I suspect on a longer and harder drive it will get considerably higher than that, but it's a good sign and a good start __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

07-02-2009, 01:47 PM	#10 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3595	More mini-updates: Did some more driving today, in the just-after-noon super-heat. Ambient temp was 104 rolling (not parked). Got some good aggressive driving in, although not to the level of the torture tests I did pre-cooler to hit 260. Oil temp peaked at 220, and was generally very "stable" as predicted. It moves up very slowly, unlike before where running through 1-2 gears at WOT would cause visible fast movement of the needle. Given the deadly heat today, I think it performed admirably. I'm noticing my 7AT overheating more now too. Usually the engine would get up in the 240-250 range first, causing me to back off of the hard shifting, and then I wouldn't notice the 7AT so much. After the engine sat at 220 for a while with me still driving aggressive, the 7AT started getting soft on downshifts, which I've taken to be an indicator of very hot fluid. I guess a transmission cooler is in order next Also, I forgot to turn my radar detector back on from when I was working in the garage the past few days. As a result, I got an insultingly low 80 in a 65 ticket from a motorcycle cop on the way home when I was just cruising lazily in freeway traffic. I had no idea he was there until it was too late with the V1 off. He was pretty nice about it though, just wanted to churn out that ticket and move on, no big hassles. So now I have my first Z ticket, probably the first of many I should be good to wipe this one out with defensive driving anyways. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

07-27-2009, 05:11 PM	#11 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3595	Went ahead and ordered a laser test unit off the web, it's easier that way: Hand Held Laser Tester - Laser Jammers at Radar Busters Also, got my order in to add a Mocal thermo plate to my Stillen kit to get my warmup times down at the next oil change. Parts list from racerpartswholesale.com if anyone's looking for the same: Qty Item # Description Price 1 MOC-SP1FT Mocal Sandwich Plate- 20mm Thread $86.95 2 MOC-2BM808A Mocal 1/2" x -8 ORB fitting $31.98 Edited much later to remove an unnecessary and incorrect part from this list above. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details Last edited by wstar; 09-09-2009 at 03:08 PM.

07-29-2009, 06:12 PM	#12 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3595	Laser tester linked above came in today, I like it. Very simple unit, 9V battery and one button, runs through four styles of laser-speed-gun pulsing in sequence when you hold down the button, roughly $50. It's no substitute for actual testing with a police laser gun at range, but sure is a nice measure of reassurance that things are basically functioning correctly. Both my V1 and my Blinder went off as expected. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

12-23-2009, 06:11 PM	#13 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3595	Updating my long-neglected journal. Nothing significant has changed on the car recently. I'm at 13.5K miles, been through a couple more changes of Motul 300V. All the current parts are holding up great, car still runs like a bat out of hell. Forgestar wheels arrived recently, but in 18x10 + 18x11 sizes. That means going back to 285/30ZR18 + 315/30ZR18 Michelin PS2's if I keep these larger wheels, assuming the offsets on them look good (need to go measure that and calculate it out soon). Probably won't deal with the above until sometime in Jan. Also, I see FI released longtube headers. I'm gonna have to get in on that at some point too, but it may be even longer until I do. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

04-09-2011, 12:22 PM	#15 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3595	Hi guys, I'm not dead yet Just been busy with everything else in life and neglecting my 370Z, so there hasn't been much to add here the past year. (Neglecting to upgrade, not neglecting to drive and maintain). The Z's at 17,532 miles now. All of the mods are still there and hanging in just fine, no new problems. I actually haven't been driving as much as I'd like, oil changes have been going every 3 months instead of by mileage. The Forgestar wheels (18x10/18x11) did finally go on the car some months back. After re-re-re-evaluating my tire options for the 43rd time, I actually ended up trying out Continental's ExtremeContact DW in 275/35 + 295/35. They had pretty good ratings on TireRack.com, the design looked good, and they're pretty cheap as far as these kinds of tires go. The tires have been awesome at least in aggressive street driving, and I'm really happy with the grip and balance of the car on this setup. As far as tire/wheel fitment and looks go: with the 18x10 F14's + 275/35 up front, the tire rubber is actually sticking out just a little more than "flush" from the body. It's not much, we're talking less than a centimeter, but you can tell. I do wonder if this has any aerodynamic effect worth even thinking about. The rears fit in just fine. If anything, on my next set of tires I'll probably step up the tire width a bit (305?), since there's still room left. I'm looking to probably go for another round of upgrades this summer, I'll have some time and attention free. I have a lot of catching up to do on the latest forum trends on what's fashionable to add to the car these days So far from a quick perusal, it looks like I might try out that M370 manifold and FI's long-tube headers, and then get an UpRev tune and be done with engine stuff. Still needs suspension upgrades too. I've been on the fence about trying out an SC kit the past several months, but the threads here about 7AT damage with them is putting me off of that for now. Even if someone strengthens the 7AT, that's probably a large chunk of added cost. Have to see how it all adds up once that's available. Nice to see the forums are still rockin along without me. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details Last edited by wstar; 04-09-2011 at 03:02 PM.

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