Originally Posted by travisjb Wiring gurus (do we have any?)- I'm putting an LED lighting system on my truck bed and running power through a relay and switch mounted in
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02-15-2012, 07:37 AM | #1591 (permalink) | |
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The white stripe on the diode indicates the cathode end (negative), I've never heard of a red stripe but they just might be trying to be helpful to mark the other end as positive. Wire the diode following the existing polarity.
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02-15-2012, 10:36 AM | #1592 (permalink) |
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The diode idea might work. Depending on the nature of the little spike, a small capacitor across the switch pins might help as well (e.g. a small <1uF non-dielectric). I'd be willing to bet it's the toggle switch rather than relay that's causing the noise, but you could try doing the capacitor thing across one or both.
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02-15-2012, 10:49 AM | #1593 (permalink) |
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The Laminova unit sounds like a really interesting alternative to an air cooler, if it performs as described. Better warmup, shorter hoses, less excess oil weight. Is the unit itself lighter than a 25-row air cooler? Regardless, as you've said you can mount the weight centered lower.
So water-routing-wise you just put it inline with the lower radiator hose between the radiator's output and the thermostat/pump inlet on the engine? And then a non-thermostatic sandwich plate for the oil? I'm wondering whether the stock radiator can handle this all by itself though, or if an upgraded radiator is needed to go Laminova and ditch the air cooler. |
02-15-2012, 11:02 AM | #1594 (permalink) | |
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I've heard people speculate that the OEM unit is not sufficient... but I think that's based upon general car knowledge, not actual data on the 370z radiator/condenser. We would need to get the thermal specs on this radiator to know for sure... or just test it. |
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02-15-2012, 11:07 AM | #1595 (permalink) | ||
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02-15-2012, 03:02 PM | #1596 (permalink) | |
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I would be wiring it in series with the positive terminal, but from the description it sounds like you plan on using it as a shunt? I'm not sure if that would work, would probably blow a fuse ...
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02-15-2012, 04:46 PM | #1598 (permalink) | |
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02-15-2012, 05:03 PM | #1599 (permalink) |
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Okay I get it now, it is being used as a snub. In that case wire the diode across the positive/negative terminals of the relay with "reverse" polarity. This will allow the induced current to dissipate more quickly and should eliminate the voltage spike when turning off the lights "off". But you said the problem was when you were turning the lights "on" not "off"?
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02-15-2012, 10:34 PM | #1600 (permalink) | |
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02-22-2012, 01:49 PM | #1602 (permalink) |
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Back to the engine...
This is all preliminary, I will have more certain info and pictures to post later in the week - spun bearings on #4 crank position - this #4 position usually indicates an oiling problem, as this is the first to not receive oil when insufficient oil flow occurs - unclear yet if lower block is salvageable / how much damage - heads are unusual situation... the fasteners involved with VVEL have tool marks on them indicating that they have been wrenched on... Nissan strongly advises to never adjust these as it may be catastrophic ... more to come |
02-22-2012, 05:12 PM | #1603 (permalink) |
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Sounds... interesting Keep us posted.
Slight tangent: When you talk about insufficient "flow", would this be obvious on an oil pressure gauge as insufficient pressure, assuming there were no blocked passageways from some kind of foreign debris? Or is there a way to have ok pressure and no blocked passageways and still end up with insufficient "flow" to oil a bearing correctly? |
02-22-2012, 05:13 PM | #1604 (permalink) | |
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Was it an oil flow issue then? Not starvation? So VVEL was adjusted then? |
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