Originally Posted by wstar +1 on impatiently awaiting updates on your engine going poof. I know it's a tough situation to be in and that commenting publicly too early isn't
|
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
02-09-2012, 06:11 PM | #1576 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Covington, GA
Age: 45
Posts: 14,844
Drives: Waiting on next Z
Rep Power: 221 |
Quote:
But I'd like to know what happened. It had to be somewhat expected.
__________________
|
|
02-09-2012, 07:55 PM | #1577 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: GSO
Posts: 2,803
Drives: VIR
Rep Power: 188 |
Thanks for your thoughts and notes, all! Going through a bit of withdrawal myself... have a backup plan for March track days, but it's just not the same.
Wstar, you nailed it my friend. Hope to have something GOOD to say soon. |
02-13-2012, 09:35 PM | #1578 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: GSO
Posts: 2,803
Drives: VIR
Rep Power: 188 |
Car is back with me. Tomorrow, I will take it to a shop in Tampa to finish things up. I am considering both S&R and ZFever.
Jason (Jnaut) did some good work on the car. The plumbing on the new water-oil heat exchanger is precise and race spec so far as I can tell. There was some trick work he did to fit the GTM kit to my car and he managed to cut off a few more pounds from the nose of the car. He also diagnosed a problem with the fuel pump. Re the engine, there will be no discussion of "whose to blame" here or anywhere. In racing, these things happen. I will, however, be posting some detailed pictures of the engine internals for learning / discussion, once we have it torn down. Last edited by travisjb; 02-13-2012 at 09:37 PM. |
02-13-2012, 09:52 PM | #1580 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: GSO
Posts: 2,803
Drives: VIR
Rep Power: 188 |
Remnants of Nissan brackets and various plastic bits like a relay housing that only had a horn relay - of course I have no horn...
Also, I was previously running a dual core air-oil cooling system... the new water-oil setup is much lighter and closer in. Not sure on exact weights there but I'd guess ~10 lbs |
02-14-2012, 03:16 PM | #1583 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Mar 2009
Location: North East
Posts: 6,203
Drives: 09 370Z Sport M6
Rep Power: 653 |
Great news Travis, glad you're getting the car back in action.
__________________
Hotchkis ARB | Stillen CAI | Art Pipes | Berk CBE | Stillen AP Racing Brakes | AE Performance Oil Cooler | BC Racing ER Coilovers | Doran Control Arms |
02-14-2012, 08:25 PM | #1584 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: GSO
Posts: 2,803
Drives: VIR
Rep Power: 188 |
Laminova... I'm using model E54 which is v high throughput... plan on $200-300 of additional parts for plumbing. BAT distribution out of Sarasota FL is the primary NA distributor for Mocal.
Here's a brochure and some other links: http://208.109.215.220/files/laminova.pdf Laminova heat exchangers - Laminova British American Transfer Laminova Heat Exchanger - Modified Magazine Often used on motorcycles Last edited by travisjb; 02-14-2012 at 09:10 PM. |
02-14-2012, 08:31 PM | #1585 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Feb 2010
Location: Covington, GA
Age: 45
Posts: 14,844
Drives: Waiting on next Z
Rep Power: 221 |
Very interesting. You wouldn't have any pics on your car would yea? How much capacity is that?
__________________
Last edited by SPOHN; 02-14-2012 at 08:37 PM. |
02-14-2012, 09:13 PM | #1587 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: GSO
Posts: 2,803
Drives: VIR
Rep Power: 188 |
Will upload those w/in the next week. Jason installed it just aft of the radiator and at the lowest possible safe point. Capacity for the unit I got is said to be consistent with a 25+ row air-oil cooler. The pdf file linked above probably has throughput ratings on it - we used fairly large opening sizes. Capacity is sufficient such that there is a claimed ~zero pressure drop across the unit.
|
02-14-2012, 11:09 PM | #1588 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Jan 2009
Location: GSO
Posts: 2,803
Drives: VIR
Rep Power: 188 |
Wiring gurus (do we have any?)-
I'm putting an LED lighting system on my truck bed and running power through a relay and switch mounted in the cab... I noticed that when I turn power on to the lights I get a voltage spike on the low current 12v that includes a toggle switch. This is the same 12v that sends a remote on signal to my stereo amp (the blue wire)... it causes a loud crackle over the speakers, which I'm guessing is a voltage spike to the amp. In any event, I read that you can fix this by wiring in a diode across the relay control (85/86 terminals)... I bought a bunch of 1amp and 3amp diodes. How do I install those? There is a red end and a white end on the diodes, which goes to which terminal on the relay? Help a brother out! thanks |
Bookmarks |
|
|
Similar Threads | ||||
Thread | Thread Starter | Forum | Replies | Last Post |
DannyGT's Journal/Progress | DannyGT | Member's 370Z Gallery | 174 | 10-17-2017 11:25 AM |
RCZ's 370Z Journal. | RCZ | Member's 370Z Gallery | 1743 | 08-10-2013 12:55 AM |
Edmonton Journal Review of the 370Z | BanningZ | Nissan 370Z General Discussions | 13 | 08-09-2009 06:44 PM |