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Originally Posted by wstar +1 on impatiently awaiting updates on your engine going poof. I know it's a tough situation to be in and that commenting publicly too early isn't

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Old 02-09-2012, 06:11 PM   #1576 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by wstar View Post
+1 on impatiently awaiting updates on your engine going poof. I know it's a tough situation to be in and that commenting publicly too early isn't a good strategy, though
That seems to be a common thing here. Especially in the exterior section. Cough.. UAM.. Cough

But I'd like to know what happened. It had to be somewhat expected.
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Old 02-09-2012, 07:55 PM   #1577 (permalink)
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Thanks for your thoughts and notes, all! Going through a bit of withdrawal myself... have a backup plan for March track days, but it's just not the same.

Wstar, you nailed it my friend. Hope to have something GOOD to say soon.
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Old 02-13-2012, 09:35 PM   #1578 (permalink)
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Car is back with me. Tomorrow, I will take it to a shop in Tampa to finish things up. I am considering both S&R and ZFever.

Jason (Jnaut) did some good work on the car. The plumbing on the new water-oil heat exchanger is precise and race spec so far as I can tell. There was some trick work he did to fit the GTM kit to my car and he managed to cut off a few more pounds from the nose of the car. He also diagnosed a problem with the fuel pump.

Re the engine, there will be no discussion of "whose to blame" here or anywhere. In racing, these things happen. I will, however, be posting some detailed pictures of the engine internals for learning / discussion, once we have it torn down.
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Old 02-13-2012, 09:37 PM   #1579 (permalink)
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So what weight was cut from the front?
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Old 02-13-2012, 09:52 PM   #1580 (permalink)
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Remnants of Nissan brackets and various plastic bits like a relay housing that only had a horn relay - of course I have no horn...

Also, I was previously running a dual core air-oil cooling system... the new water-oil setup is much lighter and closer in. Not sure on exact weights there but I'd guess ~10 lbs
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Old 02-14-2012, 10:41 AM   #1581 (permalink)
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Anxious to see the results. Will be interesting to see how the water-oil cooler is plumbed in.
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Old 02-14-2012, 11:15 AM   #1582 (permalink)
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Who sells the water-oil cooler? Is that the same as a heat exchanger that GTM sells or is it custom?
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Old 02-14-2012, 03:16 PM   #1583 (permalink)
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Great news Travis, glad you're getting the car back in action.
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Old 02-14-2012, 08:25 PM   #1584 (permalink)
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Laminova... I'm using model E54 which is v high throughput... plan on $200-300 of additional parts for plumbing. BAT distribution out of Sarasota FL is the primary NA distributor for Mocal.

Here's a brochure and some other links:
http://208.109.215.220/files/laminova.pdf
Laminova heat exchangers - Laminova
British American Transfer
Laminova Heat Exchanger - Modified Magazine



Often used on motorcycles
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Old 02-14-2012, 08:31 PM   #1585 (permalink)
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Very interesting. You wouldn't have any pics on your car would yea? How much capacity is that?
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Old 02-14-2012, 09:06 PM   #1586 (permalink)
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actually, one of those might be perfect to install in a 2012. The actual heat exchanger is way too small in the stock 20120 cooler
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Old 02-14-2012, 09:13 PM   #1587 (permalink)
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Very interesting. You wouldn't have any pics on your car would yea? How much capacity is that?
Will upload those w/in the next week. Jason installed it just aft of the radiator and at the lowest possible safe point. Capacity for the unit I got is said to be consistent with a 25+ row air-oil cooler. The pdf file linked above probably has throughput ratings on it - we used fairly large opening sizes. Capacity is sufficient such that there is a claimed ~zero pressure drop across the unit.
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Old 02-14-2012, 11:09 PM   #1588 (permalink)
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Wiring gurus (do we have any?)-

I'm putting an LED lighting system on my truck bed and running power through a relay and switch mounted in the cab... I noticed that when I turn power on to the lights I get a voltage spike on the low current 12v that includes a toggle switch. This is the same 12v that sends a remote on signal to my stereo amp (the blue wire)... it causes a loud crackle over the speakers, which I'm guessing is a voltage spike to the amp. In any event, I read that you can fix this by wiring in a diode across the relay control (85/86 terminals)... I bought a bunch of 1amp and 3amp diodes. How do I install those? There is a red end and a white end on the diodes, which goes to which terminal on the relay? Help a brother out! thanks
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Old 02-14-2012, 11:13 PM   #1589 (permalink)
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Look I'm helping!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JmkkNuf2Qgk
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cgaa0aDS78M
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Old 02-15-2012, 07:20 AM   #1590 (permalink)
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Terrific, Bobo! White it shall be. I knew I could count on you.

Let me guess, you googled "red wire or white wire" after drinking a 6 pack???
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