Originally Posted by travisjb ... there's always time spent idling before / after sessions... agree, one fan would suffice... that sounds like a plan ? should I use one of
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09-07-2011, 10:02 AM | #1441 (permalink) |
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I can't remember but I think the stock shroud with the 2 fans might be in one piece. Could be a lot of work to hack it up, will have to take another look.
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09-07-2011, 10:08 AM | #1442 (permalink) |
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here's a few that might work...
Zirgo ZFU14S - Zirgo Ultra High Performance Electric Fans - Overview - SummitRacing.com Be Cool 75014 - Be Cool Electric Fans - Overview - SummitRacing.com this one has a shroud and built in thermoswitch Flex-a-lite 185 Flex-a-lite Black Magic X-Treme Electric Puller Fans same here... but this one has lower amp draw, thin profile, and weighs less... looks like a winner Flex-a-lite 111 Flex-a-lite S-Blade Low Profile Universal Electric Fans |
09-07-2011, 10:49 AM | #1443 (permalink) |
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I would leave the factory fan assembly in the car, look at ryan's turbo car, his 2 aftermarket fans can't keep his cool at all.
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09-07-2011, 10:59 AM | #1445 (permalink) |
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Regarding the stillen bumper. Mine was blended by the body shop. 4 hours labor, but it stood up to hitting a deer on the side and massive deformation of the bumper from getting stuck on my trailer after the last alignment, which lowered it just enough to get caught up. The rest of it is actually deformed now, but the seams held up just fine.
I should have a new one delivered to me today to replace it. On this one, I'm not blending. Also Travis, In addition to scraping the bolt heads off of my undertray, I also wore the back underside lip off of the stillen bumper so that the front of the tray wasn't attached to anything after a while. Got black flagged at VIR because my aluminum undertray was scraping and sparking every time I hit a braking zone, so you may want to check the trailing edge of your bumper. I think I'm going to wind up raising the car another 1/2 inch.
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09-07-2011, 11:21 AM | #1446 (permalink) |
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That was probably a side effect of blocking a lot of air to the radiator with the intercooler, I doubt the fans had much to do with it unless it was overheating at idle with zero boost. Since playing around with my oil cooler placement (now hard against the radiator) the water temps do get higher. The more air you can get to the radiator the better. Hood vents might also be necessary to reduce the high pressure zone and improve air flow.
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09-07-2011, 12:22 PM | #1447 (permalink) | ||||
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My two cents...
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09-07-2011, 12:39 PM | #1448 (permalink) |
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Great input, Mike... I'm torn between the R6 and C51 at this point
I think I'm going to step out on a limb and try to the water-oil only approach... it may not work, in which case we can always add back one air-oil core... should be interesting Jnaut is going to install (finally) my spa oil / water temp gauge, so we'll get some accurate data to work with going forward... I should probably figure out a way to data-log this in my traqmate as well, once it is all set up |
09-07-2011, 06:05 PM | #1449 (permalink) |
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I liked the C51, but they only lasted about 3 weekends, maybe 4. The BFG R1s lasted about double that.
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09-07-2011, 06:11 PM | #1450 (permalink) |
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The R1's do wear like iron but the grip is only roughly equivalent to a shaved RA1 or a NT-01. So it is a decent practice tire but not going to be the fastest.
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09-07-2011, 08:53 PM | #1452 (permalink) | |
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Originally Posted by jnaut
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Bonnani, good info but remember you are cooling the oil with the output of the radiator. On average output temps are around 165-170 not 210 to 230 so this will help keep oil temps in check. A little off topic but I had '08 x5 in the shop last week, for an overheat conditio, now that cooling system is horrible!! The electric wp went bad @ 52k miles.
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09-08-2011, 11:18 AM | #1454 (permalink) | |
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09-08-2011, 03:23 PM | #1455 (permalink) | |
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