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I would leave the factory fan assembly in the car, look at ryan's turbo car, his 2 aftermarket fans can't keep his cool at all.

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Old 09-07-2011, 09:49 AM   #1 (permalink)
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I would leave the factory fan assembly in the car, look at ryan's turbo car, his 2 aftermarket fans can't keep his cool at all.
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Old 09-07-2011, 09:56 AM   #2 (permalink)
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I would leave the factory fan assembly in the car, look at ryan's turbo car, his 2 aftermarket fans can't keep his cool at all.
okay... will assume you'll find away to work around them
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Old 09-07-2011, 10:21 AM   #3 (permalink)
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I would leave the factory fan assembly in the car, look at ryan's turbo car, his 2 aftermarket fans can't keep his cool at all.
That was probably a side effect of blocking a lot of air to the radiator with the intercooler, I doubt the fans had much to do with it unless it was overheating at idle with zero boost. Since playing around with my oil cooler placement (now hard against the radiator) the water temps do get higher. The more air you can get to the radiator the better. Hood vents might also be necessary to reduce the high pressure zone and improve air flow.
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Old 09-07-2011, 09:59 AM   #4 (permalink)
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Regarding the stillen bumper. Mine was blended by the body shop. 4 hours labor, but it stood up to hitting a deer on the side and massive deformation of the bumper from getting stuck on my trailer after the last alignment, which lowered it just enough to get caught up. The rest of it is actually deformed now, but the seams held up just fine.

I should have a new one delivered to me today to replace it. On this one, I'm not blending.

Also Travis,
In addition to scraping the bolt heads off of my undertray, I also wore the back underside lip off of the stillen bumper so that the front of the tray wasn't attached to anything after a while. Got black flagged at VIR because my aluminum undertray was scraping and sparking every time I hit a braking zone, so you may want to check the trailing edge of your bumper.

I think I'm going to wind up raising the car another 1/2 inch.
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Old 09-07-2011, 11:39 AM   #5 (permalink)
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Great input, Mike... I'm torn between the R6 and C51 at this point

I think I'm going to step out on a limb and try to the water-oil only approach... it may not work, in which case we can always add back one air-oil core... should be interesting

Jnaut is going to install (finally) my spa oil / water temp gauge, so we'll get some accurate data to work with going forward... I should probably figure out a way to data-log this in my traqmate as well, once it is all set up
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Old 09-07-2011, 05:05 PM   #6 (permalink)
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I liked the C51, but they only lasted about 3 weekends, maybe 4. The BFG R1s lasted about double that.
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Old 09-07-2011, 05:11 PM   #7 (permalink)
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I liked the C51, but they only lasted about 3 weekends, maybe 4. The BFG R1s lasted about double that.
The R1's do wear like iron but the grip is only roughly equivalent to a shaved RA1 or a NT-01. So it is a decent practice tire but not going to be the fastest.
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Old 09-07-2011, 07:53 PM   #8 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jnaut
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As for the oil cooler situation, Travis I would only run oil to water...multiple reason's.

1.Water is more efficent than air in transferring heat. True, unless that water is also hot. Cooling 230 degree oil with 210 degree water may not be as effective as cooling 230 degree oil with 80 degree air. Granted, since water is much more effective the temperature difference can be smaller for the same effect, but there's a point where it is less effective. Again, you MUST have an adequate water cooling system for it to work.
2.The whole system will weight less than any oil to air system, that gives you equal cooling. Not sure if you have weighed both systems but the air/oil cooling system vs. the water/oil cooling system we used on the car I race weighed about the same. Totally different cars though.
3.You have more options in location, leaving the front open for intercooler/radiator. Agreed. Plus you can put the weight in a more ideal place.
4. With mulitple large oil to air, I have a feeling that you are taxing the factory oil pump. I would rather have the pressure/volume to the engine.Being the most oil to water are about a 1/3 in overall size to the comparable oil to air, less stress on oil pump. Agreed.



The situation with the 135i is not comparable for obvious reasons, installer/chassis/equipment plus BMW cooling system is horrendous. If there's one car that I would say is worse than the BMW cooling system its the 370Z.

Bonnani, good info but remember you are cooling the oil with the output of the radiator. On average output temps are around 165-170 not 210 to 230 so this will help keep oil temps in check.

A little off topic but I had '08 x5 in the shop last week, for an overheat conditio, now that cooling system is horrible!! The electric wp went bad @ 52k miles.
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Old 09-08-2011, 10:18 AM   #9 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by jnaut



Bonnani, good info but remember you are cooling the oil with the output of the radiator. On average output temps are around 165-170 not 210 to 230 so this will help keep oil temps in check.

A little off topic but I had '08 x5 in the shop last week, for an overheat conditio, now that cooling system is horrible!! The electric wp went bad @ 52k miles.
True, but also remember that the oil will be heating the water a bit too so it will be hotter than usual at the point it goes into the radiator in the first place. Long story short, you NEED a proper water cooling system for a Laminova cooler to be effective. Simple as that.
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Old 09-08-2011, 02:23 PM   #10 (permalink)
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True, but also remember that the oil will be heating the water a bit too so it will be hotter than usual at the point it goes into the radiator in the first place. Long story short, you NEED a proper water cooling system for a Laminova cooler to be effective. Simple as that.
Do you have any reason to believe the stock radiator isnt enough? No matter what I do I cant get the temp past the halfway dot in my car, even with the sc.
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Old 09-08-2011, 02:41 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Do you have any reason to believe the stock radiator isnt enough? No matter what I do I cant get the temp past the halfway dot in my car, even with the sc.
I got mine all the way to the right in one track session on a hot day, it was my bad for not noticing right away. This was mostly due to blocking air to the radiator with my oil cooling setup. Since adjusting that I can only make it move 2 dots right of center, and half a lap of cool down brings it right back to left of center. By the time I get to the pits and plug in an ODBII reader it says 195F.
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Old 09-08-2011, 02:45 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Do you have any reason to believe the stock radiator isnt enough? No matter what I do I cant get the temp past the halfway dot in my car, even with the sc.
Is this on the track or the street? I began to see signs of coolant temp issues on my 370Z when I had the AE Performance oil cooler installed. Since it blocked a decent portion of the front bumper opening, after 20 or so minutes of track driving the water temp gauge was reading about 3/4 hot. I can't imagine the FMIC for the supercharger kit or the supercharger kit itself will make it any better. Not to mention the oil/water heat exchanger heating/cooling both the oil and water at the same time. On the street, not a problem, but Travis' car does not see the street. Now I could very well be wrong, and it would be nice if I am but if he wants to be running 20-30 minutes at a time without issues, I see a big radiator in his near future. The good news is that no matter what, there's going to be a fix and the fact that Travis' car is a track only machine opens up a world of fun possibilities for that fix.
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Old 09-09-2011, 08:02 AM   #13 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by M.Bonanni View Post
Is this on the track or the street? I began to see signs of coolant temp issues on my 370Z when I had the AE Performance oil cooler installed. Since it blocked a decent portion of the front bumper opening, after 20 or so minutes of track driving the water temp gauge was reading about 3/4 hot. I can't imagine the FMIC for the supercharger kit or the supercharger kit itself will make it any better. Not to mention the oil/water heat exchanger heating/cooling both the oil and water at the same time. On the street, not a problem, but Travis' car does not see the street. Now I could very well be wrong, and it would be nice if I am but if he wants to be running 20-30 minutes at a time without issues, I see a big radiator in his near future. The good news is that no matter what, there's going to be a fix and the fact that Travis' car is a track only machine opens up a world of fun possibilities for that fix.
Travis's car has a very large aftermarket radiator and no condensor in it to obstruct the air flow, temps won't be an issue. Without this, Bonnani your are correct he would need upgrading.
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Old 09-07-2011, 08:18 PM   #14 (permalink)
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Even more off topic...

just ordered a bunch of metric "nutserts" and slotted flat countersunk stainless steel machine screws... woohoo!
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Old 09-08-2011, 07:16 PM   #15 (permalink)
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I was just curious! I'm thinking I would have tried to leave the cooling as unobstructed as possible. We have seen what happens when you put a big fmic on this car. I know jayfightmoves had a TT setup and his car worked great on the track...
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