TravisJB Journal

travisjb · 09-06-2011, 11:12 PM

Hey, got these brake ducts for $24 each and they integrate very well with the OEM front fascia... something to think about for the rest of the track junkies

Howe Racing RE206 - Howe Air Ducts - Overview - SummitRacing.com

sig11 · 09-06-2011, 11:22 PM

Cheap too!

Boost_lee · 09-07-2011, 12:22 AM

I like them!

Equinox · 09-07-2011, 12:45 AM

Use rivets for the under side. Depending on how often you take the undertray off, it should be fine. nothing a quick drill can't take off. You would just have to get a new rivet each time. They're cheap enough. Rivet hand tools are too, I have one myself, something like 10 bucks.

Jamaica · 09-07-2011, 01:00 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by travisjb

Hey, got these brake ducts for $24 each and they integrate very well with the OEM front fascia... something to think about for the rest of the track junkies

Howe Racing RE206 - Howe Air Ducts - Overview - SummitRacing.com

same one Sam @ GTM has on his stop car.

travisjb · 09-07-2011, 07:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Red__Zed

Hopefully you won't be contact the undertray bolts-- maybe just countersink them?

Even the aluminum stuff looks like it has a relatively low ignition temp. It would make me kinda nervous.

the spec sheet said ignition point is 650F... It will always be at least 12" from exhaust, so I don't think there's an issue

jnaut · 09-07-2011, 08:24 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by travisjb

hey jnaut, if you read this... would appreciate you shedding some light on what part of the fuel sending unit broke... I assume it is where the metal rods connect to the top panel... here's a pic

Travis, the steel upright arms broke out of the platic, allowing your lower fp assembly floate on top of the fuel. until the wires actually ripped out of the upper plastic where the power wires for the fp exit the gas tank.

jnaut · 09-07-2011, 08:47 AM

As for the oil cooler situation, Travis I would only run oil to water...multiple reason's.

1.Water is more efficent than air in transferring heat.
2.The whole system will weight less than any oil to air system, that gives you equal cooling
3.You have more options in location, leaving the front open for intercooler/radiator.
4. With mulitple large oil to air, I have a feeling that you are taxing the factory oil pump. I would rather have the pressure/volume to the engine.Being the most oil to water are about a 1/3 in overall size to the comparable oil to air, less stress on oil pump.

The situation with the 135i is not comparable for obvious reasons, installer/chassis/equipment plus BMW cooling system is horrendous.

Also dont worry about radiator keeping up with the extra heat, as yours is quite large.You will not notice any higher temps on your gauge. You can put on a separate controller for the fans , activating them sooner.

travisjb · 09-07-2011, 08:54 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jnaut

Travis, the steel upright arms broke out of the platic, allowing your lower fp assembly floate on top of the fuel. until the wires actually ripped out of the upper plastic where the power wires for the fp exit the gas tank.

ok thanks

I suspect that it broke under peak g-loads during braking... they should have put a third rod in there to support fore / aft loads... heck, would have even been an improvement if the two rods were on the front/back instead of left/right

...I'm at a loss for how we re-assemble and strengthen that unit, so it doesn't happen again

we may have to buy a new OEM assembly

I wonder if phunk's new fuel starvation product includes one of these assemblies???

wstar · 09-07-2011, 08:55 AM

Keep us posted on the oil:water thing. Ever since I saw the pics of AM Perf's setup, I've been leaning towards upgrading by getting rid of my Setrab oil:air thing in favor of an oil:water box. Just not sure where and how I'd mount it, etc. AMP's setup seems to be a C&R oil:water unit + C&R radiator, with the factory fans gone (or perhaps just a single fan on the driver's side?).

travisjb · 09-07-2011, 09:02 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jnaut

As for the oil cooler situation, Travis I would only run oil to water...multiple reason's.

1.Water is more efficent than air in transferring heat.
2.The whole system will weight less than any oil to air system, that gives you equal cooling
3.You have more options in location, leaving the front open for intercooler/radiator.
4. With mulitple large oil to air, I have a feeling that you are taxing the factory oil pump. I would rather have the pressure/volume to the engine.Being the most oil to water are about a 1/3 in overall size to the comparable oil to air, less stress on oil pump.

The situation with the 135i is not comparable for obvious reasons, installer/chassis/equipment plus BMW cooling system is horrendous.

Also dont worry about radiator keeping up with the extra heat, as yours is quite large.You will not notice any higher temps on your gauge. You can put on a separate controller for the fans , activating them sooner.

Okay jnaut, I'm willing to take a gamble on it... we will try to oil-water heat exchanger only route... let me know if you want to handle procurement of the parts and what you propose specifically... as for the fan controller - I'd rather not have to remember to switch those on every time, so let's get an inexpensive thermoswitch to cut it on at 170-180F

...this should be an informative exercise... I'll keep one of the setrab cores handy just in case

travisjb · 09-07-2011, 09:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar

Keep us posted on the oil:water thing. Ever since I saw the pics of AM Perf's setup, I've been leaning towards upgrading by getting rid of my Setrab oil:air thing in favor of an oil:water box. Just not sure where and how I'd mount it, etc. AMP's setup seems to be a C&R oil:water unit + C&R radiator, with the factory fans gone (or perhaps just a single fan on the driver's side?).

that's a good point... the oil-water exchanger sits exactly where the factory fans do, so not clear how we keep both fans and add an exchanger... jnaut is going to have to get creative!

jnaut · 09-07-2011, 09:14 AM

ok, ill take care of the parts as ill be measuring where im going to mount everything. First lets gets the s/c installed, but i already have a few ideas where the cooler is going.

ChrisSlicks · 09-07-2011, 09:33 AM

At speed you have more airflow through the radiator than any fan can ever hope to deliver, the fan is more for low speed driving and I think on a track car 1 would be adequate.

travisjb · 09-07-2011, 09:59 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks

At speed you have more airflow through the radiator than any fan can ever hope to deliver, the fan is more for low speed driving and I think on a track car 1 would be adequate.

... there's always time spent idling before / after sessions... agree, one fan would suffice... that sounds like a plan

? should I use one of the OEM fans or splurge on an aftermarket fan with built in thermoswitch?

09-06-2011, 11:12 PM	#1426 (permalink)
travisjb A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: GSO Posts: 2,803 Drives: VIR Rep Power: 188	Hey, got these brake ducts for $24 each and they integrate very well with the OEM front fascia... something to think about for the rest of the track junkies Howe Racing RE206 - Howe Air Ducts - Overview - SummitRacing.com __________________ 2009 370Z #104 For Sale

09-07-2011, 12:22 AM	#1428 (permalink)
Boost_lee A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: SATX Posts: 2,813 Drives: 09 370Z TT 6MT Rep Power: 29	I like them! __________________ My TT Z

09-07-2011, 12:45 AM	#1429 (permalink)
Equinox Track Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Beaumont, TX Posts: 685 Drives: 06 Porsche Carrera S Rep Power: 18	Use rivets for the under side. Depending on how often you take the undertray off, it should be fine. nothing a quick drill can't take off. You would just have to get a new rivet each time. They're cheap enough. Rivet hand tools are too, I have one myself, something like 10 bucks. __________________ Check out my Albums '13 Subaru WRX STi \| '06 Porsche 911 Carrera S (SOLD) \| '96 Mazda RX-7 6.0L V8 RHD (SOLD) \| '09 Nissan Nismo #0058 (SOLD)

09-07-2011, 08:47 AM	#1433 (permalink)
jnaut A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: wpb, fl Posts: 1,146 Drives: 09 370z Rep Power: 17	As for the oil cooler situation, Travis I would only run oil to water...multiple reason's. 1.Water is more efficent than air in transferring heat. 2.The whole system will weight less than any oil to air system, that gives you equal cooling 3.You have more options in location, leaving the front open for intercooler/radiator. 4. With mulitple large oil to air, I have a feeling that you are taxing the factory oil pump. I would rather have the pressure/volume to the engine.Being the most oil to water are about a 1/3 in overall size to the comparable oil to air, less stress on oil pump. The situation with the 135i is not comparable for obvious reasons, installer/chassis/equipment plus BMW cooling system is horrendous. Also dont worry about radiator keeping up with the extra heat, as yours is quite large.You will not notice any higher temps on your gauge. You can put on a separate controller for the fans , activating them sooner. __________________ Best 1/4 mile 12.24 Best mph 114.5_______

09-07-2011, 08:55 AM	#1435 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3594	Keep us posted on the oil:water thing. Ever since I saw the pics of AM Perf's setup, I've been leaning towards upgrading by getting rid of my Setrab oil:air thing in favor of an oil:water box. Just not sure where and how I'd mount it, etc. AMP's setup seems to be a C&R oil:water unit + C&R radiator, with the factory fans gone (or perhaps just a single fan on the driver's side?). __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

09-06-2011, 11:22 PM	#1427 (permalink)
sig11 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Detroit Posts: 1,294 Drives: 09 370Z Red Sport-MT Rep Power: 18	Cheap too!

09-07-2011, 09:14 AM	#1438 (permalink)
jnaut A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: wpb, fl Posts: 1,146 Drives: 09 370z Rep Power: 17	ok, ill take care of the parts as ill be measuring where im going to mount everything. First lets gets the s/c installed, but i already have a few ideas where the cooler is going. __________________ Best 1/4 mile 12.24 Best mph 114.5_______

09-07-2011, 09:33 AM	#1439 (permalink)
ChrisSlicks A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: North East Posts: 6,203 Drives: 09 370Z Sport M6 Rep Power: 653	At speed you have more airflow through the radiator than any fan can ever hope to deliver, the fan is more for low speed driving and I think on a track car 1 would be adequate. __________________ Hotchkis ARB \| Stillen CAI \| Art Pipes \| Berk CBE \| Stillen AP Racing Brakes \| AE Performance Oil Cooler \| BC Racing ER Coilovers \| Doran Control Arms

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