TravisJB Journal

wstar · 07-14-2009, 03:55 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by travisjb

good info... the 200f could be used to activate a second cooler in a dual core setup

Actually yeah that's an interesting idea. You could do the sandwich-plate-style 180F adapter at the oil filter, and then an inline-style 200F thermo between cooler #1 and cooler #2 (like this one: BAT, Inc. - MOCAL Oil Coolers )

RCZ · 07-16-2009, 02:35 PM

^ Thats what I'm going to be doing... although there's no need to run the high temp one. I have noticed the engine management loves 180 degrees the most. Not really necessary to run the second cooler only at a higher than 180 temp. That way it will try to constantly stay at 180 all the time.

wstar · 07-16-2009, 03:15 PM

180 all the time would concern me a little, but I don't know if I'm right to be concerned. I would think getting it up around 200-220 regularly is good for the oil/engine (in the sense of helping to keep it acid/sludge-free).

RCZ · 07-16-2009, 05:16 PM

Maybe I'm thinking 200...that general vicinity is fine.

travisjb · 07-27-2009, 01:18 AM

UPDATE:

I've decided to take the plunge and turn this into a real race car. It has always been inevitable, but I figured I could hold off at least a year! Perhaps I was inspired by Sharif and the Forged Performance crew!

So, started the process this afternoon of gutting the car. I'm doing a lot of it myself, and considering this is my first dedicated race car, it's going to take a bit of time. I managed to pull nearly all of the interior plastic except for the parts with functions I will need. Also pulled carpets today. All of the parts have been carefully removed and are AVAILABLE FOR SALE.

No pics tonight - not enough time. Will update again next weekend with pics and after I've removed a few more items.

Could use some advice or good weblink how-to's on using dry ice to remove sound deadeding materials. Also, any thoughts on what I should target for weight reduction?

tbonesteak · 07-27-2009, 02:14 AM

+rep. I love that idea and gets me excited. Not in that way btw.

I think you should aim for 2800. Not too far fetched but enough of a challenge to keep you busy for a while. From the thread by forged, i remember he got it down to 3009lbs by taking out the interior parts. I would love to see 2800lbs and 330 whp on dynojet (which is what semtex is making)....a formula FULL of win. Just to put that into perspective, that would be same power to weight ratio of a boosted s2000 which is PLENTY fast - i mention this because i rode in a 330 whp s2k weighing at 2800 lbs. That sucker was a monster. It spanked lots and lots of mucho expensive cars. Good stuff!!!!

travisjb · 07-27-2009, 11:09 AM

Thanks. I think the goals you mention are completely achievable... In fact, I'm going to shoot for 2700 lbs... Forged goal of 2600 is a bit aggressive for me - I don't have the time or money to fabricate new parts... Also I think 330 whp is achievable... I'm switching to GTM straight pipes and will have a custom Cobb tune done next few weeks. Over time, I'd like to see 340 whp.

I'd welcome ideas on:

- parts I should remove
- additional chassis stiffening upgrades I should consider
- reliability and safety upgrades I haven't already done

alan93rsa · 07-27-2009, 12:03 PM

Travis,

The slope just did a 90 degree vertical fall. Hang on and enjoy the ride.

I now have an 09 Cayman S with PDK/PASM/Sport Chrono. It is an interesting car.

I went to Putnam Park a week ago with my local PCA Club. For 3 days I left the car in Sport Plus and just drove it never shifting. A couple of times the PDK would pick a lower gear mid corner, 3rd at 6000 as opposed to 4th at 4500, than I would have selected. However, it never unsettled the car. The shifts were amazingly fast.

A total of 12 runs for the weekend with no limp modes, box stock.

Hopefully someone will show up at an event in my area with a well modded 370. I'd like to see the true potential of the car.

RCZ · 07-27-2009, 01:04 PM

No regrets alan?

Also Travis, keep us updated. I really wish I could do what you are doing..I will have to live vicariously through your thread

M.Bonanni · 07-27-2009, 02:25 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RCZ

No regrets alan?

Also Travis, keep us updated. I really wish I could do what you are doing..I will have to live vicariously through your thread

+1 it is killing me to see all of these full track builds. Damn I miss having money to buy a different car for a daily driver.

travisjb · 07-27-2009, 03:32 PM

Sounds like fun, Alan. Glad you are enjoying it! That's a great car stock w/ right tires! I'm sure I'll run up against some at my local tracks and I'll post vid so you can see me pass them for yourself

Quote:

Originally Posted by alan93rsa

Travis,

The slope just did a 90 degree vertical fall. Hang on and enjoy the ride.

I now have an 09 Cayman S with PDK/PASM/Sport Chrono. It is an interesting car.

I went to Putnam Park a week ago with my local PCA Club. For 3 days I left the car in Sport Plus and just drove it never shifting. A couple of times the PDK would pick a lower gear mid corner, 3rd at 6000 as opposed to 4th at 4500, than I would have selected. However, it never unsettled the car. The shifts were amazingly fast.

A total of 12 runs for the weekend with no limp modes, box stock.

Hopefully someone will show up at an event in my area with a well modded 370. I'd like to see the true potential of the car.

Phantom · 07-28-2009, 06:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by travisjb

I'd welcome ideas on:

- parts I should remove
- additional chassis stiffening upgrades I should consider
- reliability and safety upgrades I haven't already done

Some ideas on what to remove:
-Sound deaden
-completely remove A/C and heater core units
-radio and components
-de-pin extra wiring (side sign marker, turn signals, radio and A/C, and so on)
-Stock fuel tank, cut-out spare tire and fill it with a flat piece of sheet metal
-Bumper supports. You can replace them with homemade crash bar made out of aluminum.

Some chassis stiffening ideas:
-3M poly-foam in rocker panel and other location (light weight and fire resistant too)
-Front and Rear Strut bars /or custom strut bar in the front that would connect to your cage and firewall

Reliability and safety ideas:
-Race buckets, I prefer ones that don't recline.
-4/5 point racing harness
-Cage
-Ducting (brakes, radiator, oil cooler)

Good Luck on the build, can't wait to see how this turns out

travisjb · 08-05-2009, 12:44 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Phantom

Some ideas on what to remove:
-Sound deaden ...
Good Luck on the build, can't wait to see how this turns out

Phantom! Thanks for the advice! I can tell you've done this before... I'm going down the path for first time and need all the advice you guys can spare on weight reduction and stiffening, so this is dead on. Many of these I am planning on, but a couple things I'd like more input on:

- on the wiring... how much weight do you think I stand to lose? sure would be nice to have a definitive list of what I shouldn't mess with... I'm a bit worried about de-pining wiring and having secondary effects

- on the fuel tank... I'll get to that eventually... will at some point have to switch to fuel cell and I think you're also suggesting I cut out the extra metal associated with the spare tire... I think I'm going to have my cage guy handle this part for me! I'm useless with a welder!

- bumper supports... I like this idea - seems like a lot of weight tied up in those... just wondering if I ever find my car in a wall down the road if I'm going to wish I had them???

- poly-foam and strut bar to cage ideas... will look into thanks! also, re stiffness, do you think it is worth the trouble to seam weld?

Welcome more input !

travisjb · 08-05-2009, 12:45 AM

In case you didn't know, I've started a part-out thread here TravisJB 370Z Race Car Part Out! Interior, Seats, Wheels and Tires, etc

posting pics tonight!

Phantom · 08-06-2009, 01:33 AM

- on the wiring... After seeing the bare interior of a 370z, I would estimate that you could lose around 40-80 lbs. With regards to a list of which wires to remove, I would start by labeling the wiring after you remove their components(antenna, speakers, A/C, radio , air-bags, turn signals, and wipers units). After the those components and wires are removed, each car is different. Each have different systems and safety units, so I would recommend after the big component are de-pined work on the wiring one by one. And if the car doesn't function correctly you can always put it back, that's why I recommend de-pining and not cutting wires. I will try to find a wiring diagram of 370z and I look to see what I would remove.

- on the fuel tank... It looks like the 370z you will not have to remove the extra metal which is normal with a spare tire compartment, it seems to be pretty flat already.

- bumper supports... With bumper supports, I would recommend running them. You never know what can happen on the track, you could run a little hot into a corner or someone else can make a mistake. My recommendation was to make bumper supports out of aluminum tubing, which keeps the protection but loses some weight. Bumper support were one of the last things that I worked on for weight reduction. The interior of a car has a lot of areas to remove weight, and it harder to remove extra metal once that cage goes in. I'm currently looking at the bare 370z's interior to see where some extra metal can be removed, so I'll get back to you with that.

- I recommend Seam weld because it is a common practice in the 240sx world. Seam welding does stiffen the car by not allowing the crumple points to flex and to add more strength to spot welds. If you look at most race car builds you'll notice that they seam weld the chassis. The negatives to seam welding a car is that it takes a fair amount of time and welding shops normal charge by the hour, which means you could be spend some big $$$, I got lucky and had a friend weld my car for a couple cases of beer. Also with seam welding you lose the factory crumple zones, which makes crashes more painful on the driver's body.

07-16-2009, 03:15 PM	#273 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3594	180 all the time would concern me a little, but I don't know if I'm right to be concerned. I would think getting it up around 200-220 regularly is good for the oil/engine (in the sense of helping to keep it acid/sludge-free). __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

07-27-2009, 01:18 AM	#275 (permalink)
travisjb A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: GSO Posts: 2,803 Drives: VIR Rep Power: 188	UPDATE: I've decided to take the plunge and turn this into a real race car. It has always been inevitable, but I figured I could hold off at least a year! Perhaps I was inspired by Sharif and the Forged Performance crew! So, started the process this afternoon of gutting the car. I'm doing a lot of it myself, and considering this is my first dedicated race car, it's going to take a bit of time. I managed to pull nearly all of the interior plastic except for the parts with functions I will need. Also pulled carpets today. All of the parts have been carefully removed and are AVAILABLE FOR SALE. No pics tonight - not enough time. Will update again next weekend with pics and after I've removed a few more items. Could use some advice or good weblink how-to's on using dry ice to remove sound deadeding materials. Also, any thoughts on what I should target for weight reduction? __________________ 2009 370Z #104 For Sale Last edited by travisjb; 07-27-2009 at 01:27 AM.

07-27-2009, 11:09 AM	#277 (permalink)
travisjb A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: GSO Posts: 2,803 Drives: VIR Rep Power: 188	Thanks. I think the goals you mention are completely achievable... In fact, I'm going to shoot for 2700 lbs... Forged goal of 2600 is a bit aggressive for me - I don't have the time or money to fabricate new parts... Also I think 330 whp is achievable... I'm switching to GTM straight pipes and will have a custom Cobb tune done next few weeks. Over time, I'd like to see 340 whp. I'd welcome ideas on: - parts I should remove - additional chassis stiffening upgrades I should consider - reliability and safety upgrades I haven't already done __________________ 2009 370Z #104 For Sale

07-27-2009, 12:03 PM	#278 (permalink)
alan93rsa Enthusiast Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Ohio Posts: 412 Drives: 16 Cayman GT4 Red Rep Power: 220	Travis, The slope just did a 90 degree vertical fall. Hang on and enjoy the ride. I now have an 09 Cayman S with PDK/PASM/Sport Chrono. It is an interesting car. I went to Putnam Park a week ago with my local PCA Club. For 3 days I left the car in Sport Plus and just drove it never shifting. A couple of times the PDK would pick a lower gear mid corner, 3rd at 6000 as opposed to 4th at 4500, than I would have selected. However, it never unsettled the car. The shifts were amazingly fast. A total of 12 runs for the weekend with no limp modes, box stock. Hopefully someone will show up at an event in my area with a well modded 370. I'd like to see the true potential of the car. __________________ 16 Cayman GT4, Carmine Red, Buckets, PCCB etc.

08-05-2009, 12:45 AM	#284 (permalink)
travisjb A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: GSO Posts: 2,803 Drives: VIR Rep Power: 188	In case you didn't know, I've started a part-out thread here TravisJB 370Z Race Car Part Out! Interior, Seats, Wheels and Tires, etc posting pics tonight! __________________ 2009 370Z #104 For Sale

07-16-2009, 02:35 PM	#272 (permalink)
RCZ A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Miami Posts: 6,403 Drives: '09 370Z Rep Power: 1118	^ Thats what I'm going to be doing... although there's no need to run the high temp one. I have noticed the engine management loves 180 degrees the most. Not really necessary to run the second cooler only at a higher than 180 temp. That way it will try to constantly stay at 180 all the time.

07-16-2009, 05:16 PM	#274 (permalink)
RCZ A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Miami Posts: 6,403 Drives: '09 370Z Rep Power: 1118	Maybe I'm thinking 200...that general vicinity is fine.

07-27-2009, 02:14 AM	#276 (permalink)
tbonesteak Track Member Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Socal Posts: 914 Drives: MY09 MB 6MT Rep Power: 375	+rep. I love that idea and gets me excited. Not in that way btw. I think you should aim for 2800. Not too far fetched but enough of a challenge to keep you busy for a while. From the thread by forged, i remember he got it down to 3009lbs by taking out the interior parts. I would love to see 2800lbs and 330 whp on dynojet (which is what semtex is making)....a formula FULL of win. Just to put that into perspective, that would be same power to weight ratio of a boosted s2000 which is PLENTY fast - i mention this because i rode in a 330 whp s2k weighing at 2800 lbs. That sucker was a monster. It spanked lots and lots of mucho expensive cars. Good stuff!!!!

07-27-2009, 01:04 PM	#279 (permalink)
RCZ A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Miami Posts: 6,403 Drives: '09 370Z Rep Power: 1118	No regrets alan? Also Travis, keep us updated. I really wish I could do what you are doing..I will have to live vicariously through your thread

08-06-2009, 01:33 AM	#285 (permalink)
Phantom Base Member Join Date: Jul 2009 Location: Florida Posts: 5 Drives: 03 Ranger, 93 240sx Rep Power: 16	- on the wiring... After seeing the bare interior of a 370z, I would estimate that you could lose around 40-80 lbs. With regards to a list of which wires to remove, I would start by labeling the wiring after you remove their components(antenna, speakers, A/C, radio , air-bags, turn signals, and wipers units). After the those components and wires are removed, each car is different. Each have different systems and safety units, so I would recommend after the big component are de-pined work on the wiring one by one. And if the car doesn't function correctly you can always put it back, that's why I recommend de-pining and not cutting wires. I will try to find a wiring diagram of 370z and I look to see what I would remove. - on the fuel tank... It looks like the 370z you will not have to remove the extra metal which is normal with a spare tire compartment, it seems to be pretty flat already. - bumper supports... With bumper supports, I would recommend running them. You never know what can happen on the track, you could run a little hot into a corner or someone else can make a mistake. My recommendation was to make bumper supports out of aluminum tubing, which keeps the protection but loses some weight. Bumper support were one of the last things that I worked on for weight reduction. The interior of a car has a lot of areas to remove weight, and it harder to remove extra metal once that cage goes in. I'm currently looking at the bare 370z's interior to see where some extra metal can be removed, so I'll get back to you with that. - I recommend Seam weld because it is a common practice in the 240sx world. Seam welding does stiffen the car by not allowing the crumple points to flex and to add more strength to spot welds. If you look at most race car builds you'll notice that they seam weld the chassis. The negatives to seam welding a car is that it takes a fair amount of time and welding shops normal charge by the hour, which means you could be spend some big $$$, I got lucky and had a friend weld my car for a couple cases of beer. Also with seam welding you lose the factory crumple zones, which makes crashes more painful on the driver's body. __________________ Professor Chaos

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