So you are still hitting 240F with two oil coolers? Maybe its not so bad given the track and ambient temps, but I was expecting significantly lower. That is definitely
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07-11-2009, 08:11 PM | #256 (permalink) |
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So you are still hitting 240F with two oil coolers? Maybe its not so bad given the track and ambient temps, but I was expecting significantly lower.
That is definitely odd that you still went into limp mode even though you were below the limit.
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07-12-2009, 11:30 AM | #257 (permalink) |
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Yeah something is up with that limp mode thing. I have hit 270 before without going into limp mode.
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07-12-2009, 07:23 PM | #258 (permalink) | |||
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Lesson learned... All of us that lower the car need to consider relocating the o2 sensor bracket from the bottom of transmission to sides. Unfortunately, I had to cut my day short and missed the last 2 runs and the time trials at day's end.... But I should be able to post the video from session 3... Stand by PS Mike, your buddy Jimbo (with MR2) says 'hi' |
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07-12-2009, 09:38 PM | #260 (permalink) |
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Trust me, I was irate yesterday at the track... but it turns out this one is my fault, not Nissan's... read my post above, hope it was clear... The O2 sensors simply came undone... wouldn't have happened if the bracket hadn't scrapped against the road or track or dead animal on the road or whatever
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07-12-2009, 10:18 PM | #261 (permalink) | |
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07-12-2009, 10:39 PM | #262 (permalink) |
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I should have been more clear... it felt like limp mode... you'll see when I post the video that I lost power several times.... engine finally just shut off... No check engine light for whatever reason... at first I thought it was fuel starvation
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07-12-2009, 11:54 PM | #263 (permalink) |
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Just updated video journal with my third session.... as well as a video of engine cutting out
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07-13-2009, 10:38 AM | #264 (permalink) |
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Great video
So back on the oil temps thing: I'm still driving on the street mostly (for now anyways, although hopefully I can hit some track stuff later), so obviously I'm not heating up the engine as much as you do on the track. I'm running Stillen's cooler plus a 1-qt spacer on the oil pan from AAM for the moment (which also spaces down the oil pickup, so in theory it's going to help prevent loss of oil pickup on a hard corner too). Anyways, you have any thoughts on what's "too cold" for hard driving? I'm mostly staying in the 190-220 range now even in aggressive street conditions, but on highway night drives at high speed, my oil temps are sucking down to 175-180 when cruising due to the lower ambient temps and high airflow to the cooler. I'm starting to wonder if that's too cold and the oil would be better off a little hotter in that scenario (not that it matters when I'm actually just cruising, but it might matter when I get back on the gas/revs hard at those temps). Keep in mind we're nearing the peak of TX summer heat, so these temps will probably drop substantially in the winter. I'm planning to put a thermo plate in on my next oil change anyways, which should at least keep the floor at 180. I'm not even really sure how these plates are specified anyways. Is 180 when the valve starts opening, or when it becomes fully open? |
07-13-2009, 11:21 AM | #265 (permalink) |
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Hey WSTAR... I read about your spacer, nice job. There are plenty of engineers and chemists better qualified to answer your question but my quick input is that yes, especially with thicker oils it is better to have a thermostat and avoid running hard at low temps... and there is probably a reason that most thermostats open at 180f... other than that, not sure exactly what the right number is for our cars and your particular oil... Given that I'm using a lot of cooling and a thicker oil, I'm planning to use a thermostatic switch. Re how they work, my understanding is that they are binary - either open or closed - at a given temp... some may open or close partially
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07-13-2009, 11:24 AM | #266 (permalink) |
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Or if you go with a kit like GTM's (which is what I am using) they provide a thermostatic sandwhich plate which lets the engine take care of anything under 180 then it auto starts circulating after that...
I think its a win win...expecially here on the Northern East Coast when temps get real cold, I dont want to be blowing fittings. But then again I let the car warm up...
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07-13-2009, 12:35 PM | #267 (permalink) |
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I would've expected a mechanical thermostat to not be binary, because it's simpler to build them that way (basically a spring that slowly changes shape with temperature), but I guess they could also use some kind of bent bi-metal strip that would snap one way or the other at a given temp. Oh and I'm running 5W-30 Motul 300V too, so mine isn't quite as thick as yours to begin with.
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07-14-2009, 12:31 PM | #269 (permalink) | |
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The passageways that flow to the cooler are always open and unregulated. Separately, there is a bypass passageway that goes straight through to the oil filter. The thermostat slowly closes off the bypass passageway as the temps rise. The temp range for the closing-off action is roughly around 5-10 degrees F, roughly centered on 180. Once the bypass is fully closed off (so roughly around 182-185-ish), all oil flows through the cooler. On the other side of the temp range (when you're down at anything under 175-178-ish) essentially both paths are wide open, it's just that the bypass is the path of least resistance, so "most" of the oil will take the bypass route. But by leaving the cooler path open with a little flow going through it as well, it helps get the cooler system warmed up too, so it's not a sudden temp-shock transition when you get warmed up and close off the bypass. He said they sell a model that's set for 200F as well, but that they don't recommend it for car applications, and it's mainly marketed at marine/aviation needs. |
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