Hey, got these brake ducts for $24 each and they integrate very well with the OEM front fascia... something to think about for the rest of the track junkies

Howe Racing RE206 - Howe Air Ducts - Overview - SummitRacing.com

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/u...903_090009.jpg

Cheap too!

I like them!

Use rivets for the under side. Depending on how often you take the undertray off, it should be fine. nothing a quick drill can't take off. You would just have to get a new rivet each time. They're cheap enough. Rivet hand tools are too, I have one myself, something like 10 bucks.

same one Sam @ GTM has on his stop car.

the spec sheet said ignition point is 650F... It will always be at least 12" from exhaust, so I don't think there's an issue

Travis, the steel upright arms broke out of the platic, allowing your lower fp assembly floate on top of the fuel. until the wires actually ripped out of the upper plastic where the power wires for the fp exit the gas tank.

As for the oil cooler situation, Travis I would only run oil to water...multiple reason's.

1.Water is more efficent than air in transferring heat.
2.The whole system will weight less than any oil to air system, that gives you equal cooling
3.You have more options in location, leaving the front open for intercooler/radiator.
4. With mulitple large oil to air, I have a feeling that you are taxing the factory oil pump. I would rather have the pressure/volume to the engine.Being the most oil to water are about a 1/3 in overall size to the comparable oil to air, less stress on oil pump.



The situation with the 135i is not comparable for obvious reasons, installer/chassis/equipment plus BMW cooling system is horrendous.

Also dont worry about radiator keeping up with the extra heat, as yours is quite large.You will not notice any higher temps on your gauge. You can put on a separate controller for the fans , activating them sooner.

ok thanks

I suspect that it broke under peak g-loads during braking... they should have put a third rod in there to support fore / aft loads... heck, would have even been an improvement if the two rods were on the front/back instead of left/right

...I'm at a loss for how we re-assemble and strengthen that unit, so it doesn't happen again

we may have to buy a new OEM assembly

I wonder if phunk's new fuel starvation product includes one of these assemblies???

Keep us posted on the oil:water thing. Ever since I saw the pics of AM Perf's setup, I've been leaning towards upgrading by getting rid of my Setrab oil:air thing in favor of an oil:water box. Just not sure where and how I'd mount it, etc. AMP's setup seems to be a C&R oil:water unit + C&R radiator, with the factory fans gone (or perhaps just a single fan on the driver's side?).

Okay jnaut, I'm willing to take a gamble on it... we will try to oil-water heat exchanger only route... let me know if you want to handle procurement of the parts and what you propose specifically... as for the fan controller - I'd rather not have to remember to switch those on every time, so let's get an inexpensive thermoswitch to cut it on at 170-180F

...this should be an informative exercise... I'll keep one of the setrab cores handy just in case :tup:

that's a good point... the oil-water exchanger sits exactly where the factory fans do, so not clear how we keep both fans and add an exchanger... jnaut is going to have to get creative!

ok, ill take care of the parts as ill be measuring where im going to mount everything. First lets gets the s/c installed, but i already have a few ideas where the cooler is going.

At speed you have more airflow through the radiator than any fan can ever hope to deliver, the fan is more for low speed driving and I think on a track car 1 would be adequate.

... there's always time spent idling before / after sessions... agree, one fan would suffice... that sounds like a plan

? should I use one of the OEM fans or splurge on an aftermarket fan with built in thermoswitch?