I noticed a SES light and the fuel gauge reading zero. I plugged in my code reader and it said something about voltage at sender, I can't remember exactly, I'll have to read the code again.

The car in its current condition wouldn't pass a warranty inspection so I'll just leave it for now. I run with a full tank all the time on track so it doesn't really matter that much.

Apparently my fuel sending unit broke in half and the wires got yanked out of the unit making the pump inoperable... that explains why my car wouldn't fire up!!! credit to jnaut for finding this quickly

... another weak link on this car for us all to deal with


part # 25060-Z34003
pictured here...
http://www.courtesyparts.com/370z-pa...8738_8742.html

chris, you may want to pop open your fuel pump panel and see if the wires are tightly connected and that the send unit assembly is properly seated etc

Good luck on the build.

Wow. Thanks Travis, I'll check on that.

thanks... hey, how's yours coming along?

sure thing

as we get ready for the SC install, thinking through options on how to keep the oil cool... right now am leaning towards a hybrid system where we have one air-oil setrab core and one external water-oil heat exchanger working together... oil would continuously flow through the heat exchanger which would help regulate temps somewhat and when temps exceed the thermostat, flow would also run through the air-oil core

thoughts?

a couple links

External Heat Exchanger C&R Racing
http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...ml#post1296893

That's the setup I was leaning towards. Where would you mount the air oil cooler though? Setting it in front of the radiator would reduce the efficiency of the radiator which would be somewhat self defeating.

i know there was a thread about this. berk had it on the 135 and ran into some issues.

could be set off to one side... will be using the stillen fascia only going forward and that has the big side scoops as you know

interesting... so berk used a hybrid setup? please point us to the link if you find it... i'll look as well... thanks

http://www.the370z.com/engine-drivet...exchanger.html

i will send it over when i find it.
make sure you have tons of cooling mods and if you get an oil cooler the 34 does fit.

hey jnaut, if you read this... would appreciate you shedding some light on what part of the fuel sending unit broke... I assume it is where the metal rods connect to the top panel... here's a pic

http://cj-motorsports.com/img/370p1.jpg

note to self on nasa TTS classing...

- TTS weight / whp target = 8.7
- min competition weight target = 3,215
- max whp target = 385
- unadjusted weight / whp = 8.35
- adjustment for using 275 series tires = +0.4
- other adjustments... none
- adjusted weight / whp = 8.75

Would like your guys input on tire selection... I will be running a 275/35/18 square setup, which will help keep my costs down and also gives me the 0.4 bonus points above (versus running 315s in the back and adding 135 pounds of ballast)... Given I have to use a DOT approved tire, I think I have three choices in this size

1. Ventus Z214 with "very soft" c91 tread... $267 per tire on tire rack
2. Hoosier A6... $315 on tire rack
3. BFG R1... $319 on tire rack

Do you guys have opinions on these three?

My opinion is that the A6 is too soft for open time trials where you are running many laps. They are good for clubs that do a single timed lap or a couple of laps, they will peak on the first lap and start to fall away in lap time. If I were to run Hoosiers I would run the harder compound R6.

Kuhmo V710 doesn't make a 18" 275, it is a 285.

No one I've talked to likes the R1's, they just don't have the grip of the top contenders.

The complaint about the Z214's is that they heat cycle out too quickly, where as the R6's and 710's you can run until they cord without the tire getting much slower.

710s are out for the reason you state

R6's also do not come in 275, only 285... to my knowledge - could be wrong

edit... scratch that... looks like they do have a 275