Nissan 370Z Forum - TravisJB Journal

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Again with the mini pictures Travis?? You should put a roofscoop in to get some air into the cabin.

haha, no, that was a reply to a post from like 12 months ago!

Wouldve been way more sick if you had gone zonda R style and used a roof scoop to get air into that rear diff cooler.

We can always poke a whole in your car and do it.

My none race car??? That would b rice

Car is at Xact dyno and will be UpRev tuned tonight... will be interesting to see if we get any gains... stay tuned! haha

UPDATE: he can't find the OBD 2 port! Must be taped up under the dash somewhere

I will run the car on Sunday at PIR and update here after the weekend

My aero coach sent me some homework to do!

Quote:

Some of the guidance I gave you previously was off base with regard to the splitter, gurney flaps, and underbody diffuser. I am putting together some trade equations so you can play around with what the impact on downforce and drag will be for the various options versus the cost. Can you send me the following information when you get a chance so I can develop the trade calculations:

1) what is the brand, model, height above deck lid, width (span), length (chord), and angle of attack you have your rear wing set to currently?
2) what is the width of the front splitter, the length at the centerline (chord), the distance from the leading edge to the ground, and the distance from the trailing edge to the ground when it is installed?
3) what is the ground clearance between the front clip without the front splitter installed?
4) what would the average ground clearance be if you installed an underbody tray (trying to get a feel for how much ground clearance you have on average)?
5) what is the average radial gap between the tires and the wheel wells for the front and also the rear?
6) what is the cross-sectional area of the "blunt nose" portion (~ perpendicular to the ground) of the front clip?
7) What is the cross sectional area of the tail section for a plane ~ perpendicular to the ground?
8) what is the approximate height and width of the "rear hump" on the deck lid we talked about shaving off?
9) what is the cross sectional area of the side scoop inlet ducts, what diameter ducting are you running now, and what is the size of the license plate cut-out?
10) what is the approximate cross sectional area looking from the front of the car that you would eliminate if you replaced the front headlights with contoured sheet metal (give to me on a per headlight basis)?
11) what is the approximate cross sectional area looking from the rear of the car that you would eliminate if you replaced the rear taillights with contoured sheet metal (give to me on a per taillight basis)?
12) what is the current ground clearance and length of the sections on each side of the car where you incorporate side skirts?

Also, if you can get the following information it would be helpful for assessing the dynamic stability and help with tuning the downforce between the front and rear of the car:

1) approximate current wet gross weight of car
2) approximate axial location of center of gravity as a percentage of the overall distance between the centers of the front and rear wheels

looks like you have a busy night!!!!!

yup... and if anyone wants to help answer some of these, welcome the input! :)

tim @ xact dyno just called... the car baselined 300 whp on the nose... unfortunately we weren't able to do any tuning because the ecu detects too much voltage without the hvac modules plugged in... we're going to have to run it again next week with that stuff plugged back in...

Tim estimates that the car is running lean and we should be able to squeeze around +20 whp out of it... if that's true, then my target weight for this car based upon my NASA time trial target of 8.7lbs/whp will be 2,784 pounds! In short, impossible!

Hey Stan, whatya' doing with that Rotrex SC unit!?

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/u...ril29POWER.jpg

I got the same results as you travis, 300 hp and 245 torque, just got back from an uprev tune and added 15 hp & 5 torque, good luck with your tune.
On a side note: I am really surprised with my exhaust the output I achieved.

Quote:

Originally Posted by travisjb (Post 519325)

Quote:

Originally Posted by travisjb (Post 519325)

It's sitting at the shop collecting dust until I decide what to do. Should I ask why :icon17:

PM sent

Travis, when you got your tune with the Uprev could you only tune up to 6400 rpm?, we could only Tune up to 6400 rpm instead 7500, they said we have to ratio this out and I am very unsure about this, my ECU was a new one they had to create from and they got it back really fast but that seems totally wrong since I know the 350Z people don't have to do this with their car. Any help would be nice just want to clarify so I am not going nuts. I like the software though, it seems to have lots of potential.

I don't have an uprev tune yet, this was a failed attempt... there is something wrong with the voltage levels on my car either because my "new" ECU hasn't been inititialized or because I have a few things missing such as HVAC connections... we're going to try again in a week or two once I plug a few things back in

Suggest you have your tuner speak directly with UpRev regarding your situation... doesn't make sense to me that the rpms would be limited below stock levels as you describe

I know the questions wasnt for me, but we could tune all the way up, not just to 6400. Something is wrong with your software...

Car ran very well today at PIR. Last time I was there I ran a 1:13.3 on street tires... This time I broke through 1:10 in my second session and third session posted a 1:09.5! Pretty happy with that result.

The car weighs exactly 3,175 with me + full fuel... my dyno was 300whp and optimistically I will gain +20 with a tune, which means my weight / power ratio is 10.0. That is too far off the target for "TTS" of 8.7, so I am now forced to change plans. I can either go SC and tune it for 375 or so whp, or I can try to get the car classed 1 level down to "TTA". The later option sounds very appealing because the time I turned today is a typical winning time in TTA - or close to it.

In order to move down 1 class, I have to do the following:

- switch to no larger than 275 series tires (run 275 square)
- switch from Hoosier R6 to Nitto NT01
- swap back OEM sway bars (but I can run 18K/16K spring!)
- add 100 lbs of ballast, for comp weight of 3,250 (note: can add ballast wherever I want)
- remove canards
- remove front splitter (didn't have on today anyway)
- convince NASA that my sport model Z is equivalent to a non-sport for classing b/c I swapped out the brakes, wheels and diff and those are the only real differentiators... they may require me to run without SRM, however

Another thing to note... I was pulling sustained G's today upwards of 1.30 and as a result had fuel starvation with only 1 light down from full!