Looks good! Where do they mount the drive motor for the door? I'd love to convert mine to high lift so I can install a 2 or 4 post.

when you look at the pic, you can see a wire hanging down on the far left side... that's coming of the electric drive motor... it's a different motor than typical overhead motor.... i recommend hiring someone that's done this plenty of times vs DIY - my builder paid for it, but I don't think it was a lot of $

if your ceiling is tall enough, should allow for a 2/4 post lift... I may do that down the road, but for now this will give me room to lift a truck on my scissor mid-rise lift and not worry about clearance at all! :)

No I wouldn't DIY that one, just trying to get an idea of what is involved. I've got about 11 ft of clearance but right now the door track only goes up to 7ft or so. I had the new door put in about 5 years ago but wasn't thinking about lifts and such at the time, which now I regret.

Thanks!

Which reminds me, I'm looking into this, eventually:

MaxJax Portable Two Post Lifting System by Dannmar

http://maxjaxusa.com/image-gallery/s...ift-height.jpg

:tup: looking forward to seeing how it does!

^ good looking lift...

Z Fever Racing identified two primary causes of engine failure

1) the in/out were backwards on the sandwich plate adapter for the oil coming off the block, resulting in minimal oil passing that point and thus passing along to the oil cooler core and returning to the block... this explains pretty much EVERYTHING including a dead-*** engine... as it turns out, I have the mfgr of the sandwich plate adapter to thank, as the correct flow was opposite of the indicated flow... there will be pictures of this soon

2) normally the ECU would shut the engine down in the event of no/low oil pressure... if this happens correctly then item 1 above would be unfortunate but not catastrophic... unfortunately, a prior installer in the process of modifying the cooling system built a DIY wiring extension to provide more room for wiring going to the oil pressure sensor and another sensor next to it... one sensor gets +5V the other +12V (or something like that)... the two were swapped, thus eliminating the oil pressure signal to the ECU and thus bypassing the normal safety shutdown sequence involved with no/low oil pressure

Ah, the little things!

Travis

Damn. The instructions for the sandwich plate indicated flow backwards? That's pretty bad.

The wiring crap happens sometimes, although I doubt the stock low pressure indicator would have tripped as it is set pretty low.

Agreed. Now, I should mention that I am conveying information discussed over the phone, which is always dangerous... once we have pictures, should be more clear exactly which part and we can discuss which kit it came out of and which mfgr I have to thank.

Good to know... I also need to hook up an aftermarket oil pressure gauge... been meaning to do that for a while now

At first I was about to say "Why would the in/out-flow direction of the sandwich plate fittings matter?", because I guess it doesn't for Setrab-like coolers. I'm guessing the coolant exchanger you went to cares?

standby on this... may be the oil filter relo plate, or another that was not previously installed before the SC kit... and my component may be a 1-off error (mfgr error) as opposed to something widespread (design error)... will report back when I have more

Another update...

You all know the long awaited fuel starv product that has been discussed for two+ years now... well, I think we've got a simpler solution coming together on my car with full intention to quickly productize... that's all I can say for now - more later

:excited: Simple

Simple is good.

:ohsnap1:

^ not trying to be controversial, just wanted you all to know there's another option in development

So, here's the long awaited (at least by me! :)) dyno plot for my SC... bear in mind that I reverted back to the smaller blower

http://i656.photobucket.com/albums/u...70z30april.jpg

There is no difference in configuration for run1 and run2... only thing that changed was HEAT SOAK... unfortunately if my car is impounded after a race it will be dyno'd cold... but in reality I will be running at the lower whp levels during a hot lap... so looks like I'm going to have to tune for 370 whp and ballast weight for 390whp to hit my weight/whp target.