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Originally Posted by travisjb Stuff online said to wire it across the positive negative, in much the same way that a relay with built in diode would do... but I'll

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Old 02-15-2012, 04:03 PM   #1 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by travisjb View Post
Stuff online said to wire it across the positive negative, in much the same way that a relay with built in diode would do... but I'll try wiring to just the positive side as cut in first - makes sense that would work.

Thanks! You know your ****
Okay I get it now, it is being used as a snub. In that case wire the diode across the positive/negative terminals of the relay with "reverse" polarity. This will allow the induced current to dissipate more quickly and should eliminate the voltage spike when turning off the lights "off". But you said the problem was when you were turning the lights "on" not "off"?
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Old 02-15-2012, 09:49 AM   #2 (permalink)
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The Laminova unit sounds like a really interesting alternative to an air cooler, if it performs as described. Better warmup, shorter hoses, less excess oil weight. Is the unit itself lighter than a 25-row air cooler? Regardless, as you've said you can mount the weight centered lower.

So water-routing-wise you just put it inline with the lower radiator hose between the radiator's output and the thermostat/pump inlet on the engine? And then a non-thermostatic sandwich plate for the oil?

I'm wondering whether the stock radiator can handle this all by itself though, or if an upgraded radiator is needed to go Laminova and ditch the air cooler.
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Old 02-15-2012, 10:02 AM   #3 (permalink)
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So water-routing-wise you just put it inline with the lower radiator hose between the radiator's output and the thermostat/pump inlet on the engine? And then a non-thermostatic sandwich plate for the oil?
Yes and yes. Laminova recommends routing 100% of the water flow through the unit, although their documentation says if necessary you can also run a branch... the pressure drop is supposed to be negligible, so guessing a branch would be fine. In my case, it is 100%.

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I'm wondering whether the stock radiator can handle this all by itself though, or if an upgraded radiator is needed to go Laminova and ditch the air cooler.
I've heard people speculate that the OEM unit is not sufficient... but I think that's based upon general car knowledge, not actual data on the 370z radiator/condenser. We would need to get the thermal specs on this radiator to know for sure... or just test it.
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Old 02-16-2012, 04:08 PM   #4 (permalink)
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Diode works! used 1amp across 85/86 relay terminals and that did the trick... thanks again!

Car is at Z Fever Racing in Tampa... more to come
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Old 02-22-2012, 12:49 PM   #5 (permalink)
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Back to the engine...

This is all preliminary, I will have more certain info and pictures to post later in the week

- spun bearings on #4 crank position
- this #4 position usually indicates an oiling problem, as this is the first to not receive oil when insufficient oil flow occurs
- unclear yet if lower block is salvageable / how much damage
- heads are unusual situation... the fasteners involved with VVEL have tool marks on them indicating that they have been wrenched on... Nissan strongly advises to never adjust these as it may be catastrophic

... more to come
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Old 02-22-2012, 04:13 PM   #6 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by travisjb View Post
Back to the engine...

This is all preliminary, I will have more certain info and pictures to post later in the week

- spun bearings on #4 crank position
- this #4 position usually indicates an oiling problem, as this is the first to not receive oil when insufficient oil flow occurs
- unclear yet if lower block is salvageable / how much damage
- heads are unusual situation... the fasteners involved with VVEL have tool marks on them indicating that they have been wrenched on... Nissan strongly advises to never adjust these as it may be catastrophic

... more to come
hm, interesting.

Was it an oil flow issue then? Not starvation?

So VVEL was adjusted then?
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Old 02-22-2012, 04:12 PM   #7 (permalink)
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Sounds... interesting Keep us posted.

Slight tangent: When you talk about insufficient "flow", would this be obvious on an oil pressure gauge as insufficient pressure, assuming there were no blocked passageways from some kind of foreign debris? Or is there a way to have ok pressure and no blocked passageways and still end up with insufficient "flow" to oil a bearing correctly?
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Old 02-22-2012, 06:17 PM   #8 (permalink)
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If the VVEL WAS adjusted, who did it?
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Old 02-22-2012, 06:22 PM   #9 (permalink)
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Was the motor opened up before all this happen? Especially the heads.

+1 on the oil pressure gauge question. I currently run one myself.
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Old 02-24-2012, 12:48 PM   #10 (permalink)
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Will answer some of these questions when I have more info

Separate topic... front camber adjustment... I talked with Jay at Ground Control... I told him we need another option in addition to the SPC front upper control arms for camber adjustment on this car... he's looking at it - no promises... if anyone wants to encourage Mr. Jay, give him a call at 530-677-8600
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Old 02-24-2012, 04:29 PM   #11 (permalink)
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Refresh me, what's the issue with the SPC front upper control arms? I'm just now getting to the point where I might care with some new coilovers (having finally found some real limitations on the stock suspension that I'm unhappy with).
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Old 02-24-2012, 04:35 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by wstar View Post
Refresh me, what's the issue with the SPC front upper control arms? I'm just now getting to the point where I might care with some new coilovers (having finally found some real limitations on the stock suspension that I'm unhappy with).
They tend to fall out of adjustment with heavy track use.
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Old 02-24-2012, 05:34 PM   #13 (permalink)
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^ exactly... and tough to make adjustments at the track given placement of the tensioner/fastener

So, here are the pics

Some scoring along the cylinders


Two deep gauges where the bearing spun and dug into the lower block


Visible damage to crank


Easier to see in person... Tool marks on the heads indicating that they may have been tightened to a non-OEM level of torque... note that this could have happened when the engine was installed as a "new engine" by a dealership in Phoenix, or anytime thereafter... it would not be appropriate for anyone to further speculate... thanks! I am providing these photos simply as a reminder that according to Nissan these should not be adjusted outside the factory... which is open for discussion




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Last edited by travisjb; 02-24-2012 at 05:38 PM.
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Old 02-24-2012, 05:37 PM   #14 (permalink)
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I found an engine out of an '09 G37 with 35K miles that will include a 6 mo warranty for ~$3,500... if anyone knows of a better deal, please speak up - otherwise I will buy it Monday

The damaged engine will eventually become a spare, assuming it is repairable
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Old 02-24-2012, 05:42 PM   #15 (permalink)
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travis: Have you tried Nissan Unlimited? The 350Z guys really like 'em.
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Danny Luna's email is: nissanunlimited@gmail.com

Danny sold me a full DE engine/HR headers/ and misc other engine parts for a GREAT DEAL...the product was shipped ON TIME and was EXACTLY what he offered for sale, great seller! Tell him Laze1 from Atlanta sent you and that you are a Racer!
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