TravisJB Journal

SPOHN · 02-14-2012, 10:15 AM

Who sells the water-oil cooler? Is that the same as a heat exchanger that GTM sells or is it custom?

ChrisSlicks · 02-14-2012, 02:16 PM

Great news Travis, glad you're getting the car back in action.

travisjb · 02-14-2012, 07:25 PM

Laminova... I'm using model E54 which is v high throughput... plan on $200-300 of additional parts for plumbing. BAT distribution out of Sarasota FL is the primary NA distributor for Mocal.

Here's a brochure and some other links:
http://208.109.215.220/files/laminova.pdf
Laminova heat exchangers - Laminova
British American Transfer
Laminova Heat Exchanger - Modified Magazine

Often used on motorcycles

SPOHN · 02-14-2012, 07:31 PM

Very interesting. You wouldn't have any pics on your car would yea? How much capacity is that?

travisjb · 02-14-2012, 08:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by SPOHN

Very interesting. You wouldn't have any pics on your car would yea? How much capacity is that?

Will upload those w/in the next week. Jason installed it just aft of the radiator and at the lowest possible safe point. Capacity for the unit I got is said to be consistent with a 25+ row air-oil cooler. The pdf file linked above probably has throughput ratings on it - we used fairly large opening sizes. Capacity is sufficient such that there is a claimed ~zero pressure drop across the unit.

martin82 · 02-14-2012, 08:06 PM

actually, one of those might be perfect to install in a 2012. The actual heat exchanger is way too small in the stock 20120 cooler

travisjb · 02-14-2012, 10:09 PM

Wiring gurus (do we have any?)-

I'm putting an LED lighting system on my truck bed and running power through a relay and switch mounted in the cab... I noticed that when I turn power on to the lights I get a voltage spike on the low current 12v that includes a toggle switch. This is the same 12v that sends a remote on signal to my stereo amp (the blue wire)... it causes a loud crackle over the speakers, which I'm guessing is a voltage spike to the amp. In any event, I read that you can fix this by wiring in a diode across the relay control (85/86 terminals)... I bought a bunch of 1amp and 3amp diodes. How do I install those? There is a red end and a white end on the diodes, which goes to which terminal on the relay? Help a brother out! thanks

ChrisSlicks · 02-15-2012, 06:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by travisjb

Wiring gurus (do we have any?)-

I'm putting an LED lighting system on my truck bed and running power through a relay and switch mounted in the cab... I noticed that when I turn power on to the lights I get a voltage spike on the low current 12v that includes a toggle switch. This is the same 12v that sends a remote on signal to my stereo amp (the blue wire)... it causes a loud crackle over the speakers, which I'm guessing is a voltage spike to the amp. In any event, I read that you can fix this by wiring in a diode across the relay control (85/86 terminals)... I bought a bunch of 1amp and 3amp diodes. How do I install those? There is a red end and a white end on the diodes, which goes to which terminal on the relay? Help a brother out! thanks

So your using the low current 12V signal to energize the relay via the switch? If that is the case then yes, the diode might help, but if the diode is just electrically noisy then it may not be a cure all. You could use unregulated battery voltage to feed the relay instead.

The white stripe on the diode indicates the cathode end (negative), I've never heard of a red stripe but they just might be trying to be helpful to mark the other end as positive. Wire the diode following the existing polarity.

MightyBobo · 02-14-2012, 10:13 PM

Look I'm helping!

travisjb · 02-15-2012, 06:20 AM

Terrific, Bobo! White it shall be. I knew I could count on you.

Let me guess, you googled "red wire or white wire" after drinking a 6 pack???

MightyBobo · 02-15-2012, 03:38 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by travisjb

Terrific, Bobo! White it shall be. I knew I could count on you.

Let me guess, you googled "red wire or white wire" after drinking a 6 pack???

Not even, as soon as I saw, "red or white" - I immediately thought of that scene from Ace Ventura haha.

wstar · 02-15-2012, 09:36 AM

The diode idea might work. Depending on the nature of the little spike, a small capacitor across the switch pins might help as well (e.g. a small <1uF non-dielectric). I'd be willing to bet it's the toggle switch rather than relay that's causing the noise, but you could try doing the capacitor thing across one or both.

travisjb · 02-15-2012, 10:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks

So your using the low current 12V signal to energize the relay via the switch? If that is the case then yes, the diode might help, but if the diode is just electrically noisy then it may not be a cure all. You could use unregulated battery voltage to feed the relay instead.

The white stripe on the diode indicates the cathode end (negative), I've never heard of a red stripe but they just might be trying to be helpful to mark the other end as positive. Wire the diode following the existing polarity.

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar

The diode idea might work. Depending on the nature of the little spike, a small capacitor across the switch pins might help as well (e.g. a small <1uF non-dielectric). I'd be willing to bet it's the toggle switch rather than relay that's causing the noise, but you could try doing the capacitor thing across one or both.

Thanks guys! I'll give this a shot today and report back. Will try diode's first since I have those on hand. Does it matter 1amp or 3amp diodes? Guessing 1amp is sufficient for a simple control switch.

ChrisSlicks · 02-15-2012, 02:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by travisjb

Thanks guys! I'll give this a shot today and report back. Will try diode's first since I have those on hand. Does it matter 1amp or 3amp diodes? Guessing 1amp is sufficient for a simple control switch.

If you're using it as a blocking diode so there will be little current flow (on the switch side of the relay), the 1A should be fine.

I would be wiring it in series with the positive terminal, but from the description it sounds like you plan on using it as a shunt? I'm not sure if that would work, would probably blow a fuse ...

travisjb · 02-15-2012, 03:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ChrisSlicks

If you're using it as a blocking diode so there will be little current flow (on the switch side of the relay), the 1A should be fine.

I would be wiring it in series with the positive terminal, but from the description it sounds like you plan on using it as a shunt? I'm not sure if that would work, would probably blow a fuse ...

Stuff online said to wire it across the positive negative, in much the same way that a relay with built in diode would do... but I'll try wiring to just the positive side as cut in first - makes sense that would work.

Thanks! You know your ****

02-14-2012, 10:15 AM	#1 (permalink)
SPOHN A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Covington, GA Age: 46 Posts: 14,844 Drives: Waiting on next Z Rep Power: 222	Who sells the water-oil cooler? Is that the same as a heat exchanger that GTM sells or is it custom? __________________

02-14-2012, 02:16 PM	#2 (permalink)
ChrisSlicks A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: North East Posts: 6,203 Drives: 09 370Z Sport M6 Rep Power: 654	Great news Travis, glad you're getting the car back in action. __________________ Hotchkis ARB \| Stillen CAI \| Art Pipes \| Berk CBE \| Stillen AP Racing Brakes \| AE Performance Oil Cooler \| BC Racing ER Coilovers \| Doran Control Arms

02-14-2012, 07:25 PM	#3 (permalink)
travisjb A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: GSO Posts: 2,803 Drives: VIR Rep Power: 189	Laminova... I'm using model E54 which is v high throughput... plan on $200-300 of additional parts for plumbing. BAT distribution out of Sarasota FL is the primary NA distributor for Mocal. Here's a brochure and some other links: http://208.109.215.220/files/laminova.pdf Laminova heat exchangers - Laminova British American Transfer Laminova Heat Exchanger - Modified Magazine Often used on motorcycles __________________ 2009 370Z #104 For Sale Last edited by travisjb; 02-14-2012 at 08:10 PM.

02-14-2012, 07:31 PM	#4 (permalink)
SPOHN A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2010 Location: Covington, GA Age: 46 Posts: 14,844 Drives: Waiting on next Z Rep Power: 222	Very interesting. You wouldn't have any pics on your car would yea? How much capacity is that? __________________ Last edited by SPOHN; 02-14-2012 at 07:37 PM.

02-14-2012, 10:09 PM	#7 (permalink)
travisjb A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: GSO Posts: 2,803 Drives: VIR Rep Power: 189	Wiring gurus (do we have any?)- I'm putting an LED lighting system on my truck bed and running power through a relay and switch mounted in the cab... I noticed that when I turn power on to the lights I get a voltage spike on the low current 12v that includes a toggle switch. This is the same 12v that sends a remote on signal to my stereo amp (the blue wire)... it causes a loud crackle over the speakers, which I'm guessing is a voltage spike to the amp. In any event, I read that you can fix this by wiring in a diode across the relay control (85/86 terminals)... I bought a bunch of 1amp and 3amp diodes. How do I install those? There is a red end and a white end on the diodes, which goes to which terminal on the relay? Help a brother out! thanks __________________ 2009 370Z #104 For Sale

02-14-2012, 08:06 PM	#6 (permalink)
martin82 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: los angeles Posts: 2,636 Drives: 12 Nissan 370Z MB M6 Rep Power: 20	actually, one of those might be perfect to install in a 2012. The actual heat exchanger is way too small in the stock 20120 cooler

02-14-2012, 10:13 PM	#9 (permalink)
MightyBobo A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Las Vegas, NV Posts: 8,465 Drives: No cars; only bikes Rep Power: 53	Look I'm helping! __________________ I don't own a car anymore.

02-15-2012, 06:20 AM	#10 (permalink)
travisjb A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: GSO Posts: 2,803 Drives: VIR Rep Power: 189	Terrific, Bobo! White it shall be. I knew I could count on you. Let me guess, you googled "red wire or white wire" after drinking a 6 pack??? __________________ 2009 370Z #104 For Sale

02-15-2012, 09:36 AM	#12 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3595	The diode idea might work. Depending on the nature of the little spike, a small capacitor across the switch pins might help as well (e.g. a small <1uF non-dielectric). I'd be willing to bet it's the toggle switch rather than relay that's causing the noise, but you could try doing the capacitor thing across one or both. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

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