Ok, you crack me up Zless... all reasonable points... re paint color, I'll probably pick a darker shade and definitely matte / flat luminance

UPDATES

• Targeting weekend after next to be done with fabrication...
• Have a paint shop lined up
• Had a discussion with Junior today... we're working up a rear brake cooling solution that I think you guys will dig !
• I'm going to can the APR front splitter and we'll fab up something more durable
• The seat showed up and looks great! 1 small tear in the fabric, but otherwise a great seat that fits me perfectly... we were able to modify the Bride rails and lower my driving position by about 2 inches
• The car is now completely prepped and the tube bending is underway!
• I'm settled on #104 assuming NASA approves it... thanks again for the input!

New pics from my last trip to PIR c/o Trevor Gill photography

http://www.trevorgillphotography.com/nasa/eDSC_8502.jpg
http://www.trevorgillphotography.com/nasa/eDSC_8598.jpg
http://www.trevorgillphotography.com/nasa/eDSC_8954.jpg

Nice pix!....and nice BBK.

Do you notice a huge difference in braking?

Please share what you did with the rails we are looking for a way to lower the Dreamer's seat about 2 inches or so

We cut the sliders off the Bride rails and welded 2x1/8 in steel across them and drill your holes. It gives you about four fingers space on to of your head where before we only had two. I havent finished yet so I have no pics but I will. I guess I should also say travis is about 5 11 so plan accordingly.

Awesome! Glad you guys got the rail figured out :).

Absolutely! Zero fade... Will be moving to more aggressive pads soon, and may add some venting when we do. Hit up Josh at Stillen if you want more info.

5 11 1/2 ! :cool:

... and thanks again for your help !

Wow loving those rolling shots!
Got any new videos for us?

hey crown, no more vids for a while... car is all taken apart for cage fab

Oh snap - pics of the progress please ... man you are certainly making a lot of Z owners envious :) whats your DD if you dont mind me asking?

Up to Junior to post more pics right now

DDs = ISF (wife's) and a natural gas powered honda civic on skunk2s and good tires/wheels... having an alternative fuel car in AZ let's us commute in the HOV lane without a passenger, so I save like 20-30 mins each way on commute

I probebly would have messed myself if i had seen an ISF when I was at your house. :driving:

How expensive was the honda to build / buy? What kind of mileage do you see from it? I was thinking about making a natural gas honda hatch for DD

That silver just shines perfectly in the sun. Love it.

Travis, any pictures of the seat rails or what you plan to do with them, since you are going aftermarket now?

I bought it 'new' but after end of model year... it is a 2006 and I bought near end of 2007 or beginning of 2008 can't remember. I recall it was like $22K for the car. I bought HFP 18" wheels a set of performance tires for prob about $1,500. Then $500-600 for skunk2 coils. Now it rides like it's on rails and I can zip around traffic all day long. Doesn't really matter that it only has 115 hp - don't really need much power for commutes. Besides, I already have several tickets on my license so better to be slow on the road! :)

By the way, in AZ you pay no sales tax, no registration fee, no license fee on this car... and there's a $1,500 federal tax CREDIT on your next tax return. That, plus natural gas is usually $0.50+ less than gasoline, so the savings add up quick. I'm actually putting in a home refueling station right now too! Will be able to phil up from my garage off the home NG line.

you want pics of the original rails ? the new modified rails we built from the BRIDE set ? or the discarded portion of the BRIDE rails that we didn't use ? (the sliders)

The original rails, I would like to keep my stock seats see if it is possible to lower them to give myself a bit more room above the head. Will make putting a helmet on possible and motivate me to take the car to the track actually (no excuses then).

okay... we went a different route fyi... we took the BRIDE aftermarket rails apart by separating the base mount from the slider mechanism, discarding the slider mechanism, then attaching two separately bought metals strips longitudinally (relative to car) to the base mounts, then drilled holes in the stips, then bolted upright rails to holes in strips, then attached seat to rails... net effect was probably 2" drop in a seat where there is plenty of bolstering on the bottom... so it's prob comparable to stock seat... check with Mike at DDM for pricing on the BRIDE kit

Not sure how you will use the OEM rails for this... I'm sure it's possible, just haven't attempted

UPDATES:

Shopping list... these are on the way !

• 2 Hooser R6 285/30/18
• 2 Hooser R6 315/30/18
• 1 MOMO MOD 80 Dished Racing Wheel
• 1 JOES Momo Steering Wheel Quick Disconnect
• 2 OMP Door Bar Sleeving Covers
• 4 OMP Molded Energy Absorbing Roll Bar Padding

Also, Junior, not sure if you got my voicemail today... but we're going to use the Spa gauge not the Defi gauge... I'll bring it by tomorrow probably... will also bring my harness and Brey Krause anti-sub-bar from prior car

I'm selling the oil pressure gauge I bought and never used... thread started here:
http://www.the370z.com/parts-sale-pr...tml#post213161

Updates:
http://i37.tinypic.com/anfzw9.jpg

http://i33.tinypic.com/2qk3znd.jpg

http://i33.tinypic.com/afiyz9.jpg

http://i35.tinypic.com/24eqtlv.jpg

http://i38.tinypic.com/2vd3evr.jpg

Wow, how much does the car weigh now?

Who asks who much a car weighs in the middle of a build? Final weight is all that matters.:happydance:

Why not? Just to get an idea. Sorry for being stupid. :ugh2:

Crown, we're getting plenty of weight out of the car and will have more to report on specifics later.

Junior, good progress... lovin the dimple die's

All, we had to change our seat mounting plans a bit in order to drop it a bit further... will update on that later

Your not stupid d00d I am just an *******.

More progress welded some of it this morning but its time for football.

For the record I hate all of you who are not Cardinals fans.

http://i37.tinypic.com/30tjaep.jpg

http://i38.tinypic.com/2h5uvj4.jpg

http://i37.tinypic.com/a2uerd.jpg

http://i36.tinypic.com/2affltv.jpg

This is what the back is looking like.
http://i33.tinypic.com/k03plg.jpg

http://i36.tinypic.com/dfwoqe.jpg

http://i35.tinypic.com/5yrtau.jpg

:tup: effing work of art !

What are you using for Brake Pads for the track?

The AP Racing BBK from Stillen comes with Mintex Extreme performance street pads. I'm planning to get more aggressive pads for my next event. AP Racing itself just released a new lineup of pads, so that's a possibility.

Welcome to the forum by the way ! Mesa huh ?

More progress: This is a scoop that we are thinking about running to get more air to the rear brakes.
http://i36.tinypic.com/4pzbwg.jpg

http://i33.tinypic.com/25pgtj7.jpg

http://i33.tinypic.com/25qdwjq.jpg

http://i36.tinypic.com/2nsm7aw.jpg

Sweet!! looks good to me!!! will be even better with matte black / powder coating

I want lots of input on this... looks ? what do you think about the dimensions and impact on aero ? wondering if we should make it shorter... etc... jump in ! :)

Personally, I dont really think that rear brake ducting will be needed necessarily. I think those scoops might be better used to cool a diff cooler. :) They are cool though.

A long as we can use them I will be happy. Diff cooler is a good idea tho.

anyone else care to weigh in on the scoops ?

I think that came out extremely well done! I just dont know if the rears will need that much cooling. I guess I can agree for it to be for the diff. But an upgraded diff + heat sink fins should also be enough.

Either way - it looks very slick especially for being functional!

thanks Danny...

okay Junior, let's move forward with them !... as I posted on NASA, let's use ~1/2 of driver's side to collect air for rear diff, given expected greater air flow on that side due to differences in planned window fairings

I'm too late!:eek: Did you thermocouple the calipers for heat readings, or did you experience rear brake failure/degradation during a race? My point: Do you need brake cooling at the rear?

You asked about aero properties of the scoop...
One can only get accurate/useful data from wind tunnel testing--not even you, travisjb, can afford one hour of wind tunnel session! ;) Air-dynamics and water-dynamics behave similarly, and I have more experience with water. Bends, angles, and reduction in diameter cause turbulence/resistance. If your scoop and duct exited straight out of the rear deck, there would be little resistance. However, there will be at least one angle in your path to the rear rotors, thus, resistance. If you duct using curves rather than hard angles, the resistance will be less. The smoother the bore of the duct, the less the resistance.

The scoop dimensions appear to be about 1" x 6"--I believe that is a small obstruction relative to the frontal area used for the Cd calculation which I guess is about .35. What is your top speed at the fastest track, and what is the duration of that speed? What is the duration of speed above 80 mph? What is the relation of speed above 100 relative to the rest of the lap? Most aero equipment (includes ram-air) begins being effective at about 80 mph. Have you tested the lpm (litre per minute) of flow at any speed above 80?

My point of the above: Unless you spend a significant amout of time above 80 mph during a lap, and unless you have enough lpm of air reaching the rotors, the scoops might not have any effect.

Then again, you could just put 'em in and use empirical data to determine the duct effectiveness (lower lap times!)

The most important criteria that I have to offer is:
They look cool...so put 'em in! :happydance::driving:

Fathead: nice cage and scoops!

Travisjb will do 104! <=(subconscious suggestion)

R/S,
Greg!