Spohn's Journal

Ron

I love ur wheels...AME is back in business right? Any idea how much a set like those run for?

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2011 Twin Turbo PW nismo #113 - My Journal - My TT Build Thread
[ GTM GTX Stg2 TT || HKS EVC6 || Custom CarPC || F.I 3'' TDX CBE || SB 6puck clutch/ZSpeed CSC || BC BR Coilovers || SPC camber arms || Work VSS-X || Custom Headlights || PW:JDM CF Covers || Seibon CF Engine Cover ]

SPOHN

I didn't really know they were out of business. I got mine from SpeedElement. They might have a set in stock still. Mine were about $2600. They used to be offered cheaper but the Yen keeps going up in Japan.

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Ron

Good price, thanks man

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2011 Twin Turbo PW nismo #113 - My Journal - My TT Build Thread
[ GTM GTX Stg2 TT || HKS EVC6 || Custom CarPC || F.I 3'' TDX CBE || SB 6puck clutch/ZSpeed CSC || BC BR Coilovers || SPC camber arms || Work VSS-X || Custom Headlights || PW:JDM CF Covers || Seibon CF Engine Cover ]

SPOHN

Link to my roll cage install

Forged Performance: SPOHN's Custom FP Spec 4-Point Cage

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simota1

i GOTTA get a welding jacket like that guy MILLER FTW... i got the same helmet lol btw the cage looks... sooo freaking pure sex man pure sex

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***TOP SECRET/POWERHOUSE AMUSE/ARC/DAYTONA RACING/VARIS/MINES/GANADOR/J-LINE/WORK EMOTION CR KAI/GT SPEC/CARBON SIGNAL/ZOOM ENGINEERING/ CARBON FIBER ELEMENT/STILLEN/***

onzedge

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Koni|Swift|Michelin|Motordyne|Berk|RJM Performance|Gates|SPL|Motul|Technafit|Ate Super Blue|Hawk
Tommy Kaira|Momo|Optima|Hella|Hotchkis|Red Line|ZSpeed|Stillen|B&M|H&R

Baer383

Looks great Chris now if we can only get you to drive correctly.

Just having fun with the STIG

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2013 ZL1

754 rwhp 747 rwtq

wstar

The 4-point Forged put together turned out pretty awesome.

I'm getting closer, I've stripped down my car from the backs of the seats on back and all of the side-plastics in that area, but not the headliner. Been staring at it for a couple of days and reading up on various rules and regs and safety issues so that I at least have some idea in my head what the right design should be. Then I'll head to a local shop or two and see if I can find someone I'm comfortable with to do the work (Forged is a bit far heh).

Got a couple random Qs:

1) What was the idea behind standing the harness bar off to the rear like that? Most I've seen keep it in-line with the main hoop? Just to avoid the X-shaped intersection with the diagonal and inherent weakness that comes with chopping one of the bars for that intersection?

2) Where you put the bottom mounts of the hoop makes a lot of sense, and seemed like the best option to me when I'm looking at mine as well. But, was there any argument though, for moving the legs forward a few inches and going to the lower floor (level with the bottom of the seat rails, in other words)?

Seems like it would possibly cut into your seating space (moving the seat forward another inch or two) to try that, but on the other hand the spot you've chosen makes me wonder about adding lower door bars later, or directly mounting seat rails to square-tube floor extensions from the cage (both seem easier with the main hoop going all the way to the lower level).

3) Also, what was the factors that went into settling on 1.75x.095? I've been waffling between a few different dimensions of DOM looking at different regs and things and hoping I don't have to rip out my 4-pt a year or two down the road just because I end up trying out some event/series or other with different rules than I expected.

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7AT Track Car!
Journal thread / Car setup details

SPOHN

Wstar, not sure I could answer your questions. If you would copy and paste them in the write up Forged did. Sharif would defiantly have the proper answer and spec that went into my build.

All I can say is my cage was build to a cetain spec with the mind set of going to a six point cage (maybe more) in the future. So that could have a lot to do with the design your seeing. Also the sizing of the DOM is all spec also. Sorry I couldn't be more informative.

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SPOHN

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Unique_Z

wow they looks good Chris, plus they match your theme good one!

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My Z Build
UniqueZ

simota1

wow man that looks pretty bad *** man!!!!

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***TOP SECRET/POWERHOUSE AMUSE/ARC/DAYTONA RACING/VARIS/MINES/GANADOR/J-LINE/WORK EMOTION CR KAI/GT SPEC/CARBON SIGNAL/ZOOM ENGINEERING/ CARBON FIBER ELEMENT/STILLEN/***

travisjb

Excited to see you guys caging your Z's! (:

I'd likely to strongly recommend that whoever you hire - pick them from among the guys that routinely build cages for the sanctioning body you will run with. Consider calling up your regional NASA and SCCA directors and ask each of them for the names of three guys. Pick from that group. Just going to any old fab guy that tells you they can do it is asking for rework or worse.

I'm sure WSTAR you were planning to do this anyways, and you are always meticulous- so my input is as much for everyone else.

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2009 370Z #104
*For Sale*

wstar

Well, I am meticulous about these things in general, but the problem is the scene around here is far more centered on NHRA when it comes to builders. The only reasonably-priced builders all work on drag cars in high volumes. They do know how to build safe cages to professional specs, just not NASA/SCCA specs necessarily. I found a couple shops within range that know about NASA/SCCA rules, but they're asking for ~4x the price for the same pipes, same welding, same specs, etc. So if I did (or when I do) put in a cage, it will likely be me carrying a copy of the relevant rules down to a very reputable NHRA-based shop here to have them do the work. One in particular that I've been looking at, about 2 hours away, is also well-versed in doing LeMons cars, so that should carry over some as well.

But in any case, I've dropped the idea of putting in a 4-point for now. Going to wait until a full cage makes sense. See this thread: Rollbar / seats / harness stuff, yet again....

Also, Spohn, when I've been looking over cage specs myself, I'm concerned about your 1.75x.095 build. Seems like for NASA (if you plan to do NASA TT stuff), 1.75x.095 is only allowed if you can get the car under 3000 lbs comp weight, otherwise you'll need 1.75x.120. Or did you have some plan to get under 3K somehow?

Edit: it could also be, of course, that I don't fully understand the build rules. Maybe you can step down a size when you've got more than the required minimum tubing (e.g. extra rear cross-bracing like you've already got). Still, I'd look into it on my own if I were you.

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7AT Track Car!
Journal thread / Car setup details

SPOHN

As for now or a couple of years to come I don't plan to run any NASA events. Maybe in due time when more time and money is there. I am trying to shave as much weight as I can and keep it streetable. I'd like to see what it's at now. it needs to be cornered balanced soon. Im about to get a lighter battery and move it to the rear, remove radio, speakers, and front beam off the front. So that on top of all I have done is pretty significant. So I am working on getting it to the lowest weight.

As far as detailed specs I'm unsure of the actual rules/ specs. I really should read up on them. I put a lot of faith and trust in Forged Performance where it takes the guess work out for me. They know what to do inside and out.

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