Spec Jay's BPv2 Street/Track Build

Spec Jay · 01-17-2021, 12:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elmo370z

That’s impressive the motor lasted 5 years of pounding. You have any idea what the old temps were like? I’m thinking about adding a second oil cooler to keep things cool. I was looking into the g30-900

Yeah I was impressed, I did a leakdown and compression test before this season and the motor was healthy. Old temps I would have the coolant pinned after 2 laps. Oil wasn't far behind.

Just a heads up, G series turbos only come in v-band turbine inlet non divided for whatever reason, you welding a different flange on?

Elmo370z · 01-17-2021, 12:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spec Jay

Yeah I was impressed, I did a leakdown and compression test before this season and the motor was healthy. Old temps I would have the coolant pinned after 2 laps. Oil wasn't far behind.

Just a heads up, G series turbos only come in v-band turbine inlet non divided for whatever reason, you welding a different flange on?

Lord. I hoping the ron Davis Rad and twin oil coolers help with temps. I’m going to have mamotorsports do there magic

Elmo370z · 01-17-2021, 01:28 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spec Jay

Yeah I was impressed, I did a leakdown and compression test before this season and the motor was healthy. Old temps I would have the coolant pinned after 2 laps. Oil wasn't far behind.

Just a heads up, G series turbos only come in v-band turbine inlet non divided for whatever reason, you welding a different flange on?

Another guy I been talking to is going to install a 2 gallon swirl
Pot to see if that helps with heat soaking issues.

Spec Jay · 01-17-2021, 02:02 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elmo370z

Lord. I hoping the ron Davis Rad and twin oil coolers help with temps. I’m going to have mamotorsports do there magic

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elmo370z

Another guy I been talking to is going to install a 2 gallon swirl
Pot to see if that helps with heat soaking issues.

Well after the vent work and relocation my coolant issues were non existent with the factory radiator. One thing to note is the 6266 is not water cooled though.
You can see where I moved the oil cooler in this pic, it's just the 30 row that came with the BP kit. Ducting will be your friend combatting temps!

Elmo370z · 01-17-2021, 05:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spec Jay

Well after the vent work and relocation my coolant issues were non existent with the factory radiator. One thing to note is the 6266 is not water cooled though.
You can see where I moved the oil cooler in this pic, it's just the 30 row that came with the BP kit. Ducting will be your friend combatting temps!

Exactly where I’m
Moving my oil cooler. Yeah I’m going to duct the front end of the car if my budget allows it. Do you recall your oil temps with the new relocation?

Spooler · 01-17-2021, 07:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elmo370z

Exactly where I’m
Moving my oil cooler. Yeah I’m going to duct the front end of the car if my budget allows it. Do you recall your oil temps with the new relocation?

You need the Stillen front bumper so you can put your oil coolers outboard. It is not possible with the FI TT kit due to our intakes already being there.

Elmo370z · 01-17-2021, 08:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spooler

You need the Stillen front bumper so you can put your oil coolers outboard. It is not possible with the FI TT kit due to our intakes already being there.

I’ll make the existing bumper work. With the FI kit you can still make it work. Fab work isn’t a big deal with Brian

Spooler · 01-17-2021, 08:17 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elmo370z

I’ll make the existing bumper work. With the FI kit you can still make it work. Fab work isn’t a big deal with Brian

If my car was a dedicated track car I would do something about it. I haven't had any issues at all doing what I do. I would like to have seen what the oil temps would have done at the Tail of the Dragon at Zdayz but they moved the event. I am not going to the new place. Plus, a turbo car doesn't need to be in the 7k rpm range to make power so you can use a lower gear to get it done.

Spooler · 01-17-2021, 08:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elmo370z

I’ll make the existing bumper work. With the FI kit you can still make it work. Fab work isn’t a big deal with Brian

By the way, it was a challenge to get the brake ducts in. No way an oil cooler would fit. That is why Hotrodz has a 72 row oil cooler.

Spec Jay · 01-18-2021, 07:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Elmo370z

Exactly where I’m
Moving my oil cooler. Yeah I’m going to duct the front end of the car if my budget allows it. Do you recall your oil temps with the new relocation?

I think the most I saw was around 240? That was really getting after it though. This newish motor I dropped in I have the OEM cooler and dropped down to a 25 row so we'll see how it handles this time around.

I actually have a new duct that has brake inlets that I need to throw in, fits between the intercooler and the ends of the main inlet.

Hotrodz · 01-18-2021, 09:24 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Spec Jay

I think the most I saw was around 240? That was really getting after it though. This newish motor I dropped in I have the OEM cooler and dropped down to a 25 row so we'll see how it handles this time around.

I actually have a new duct that has brake inlets that I need to throw in, fits between the intercooler and the ends of the main inlet.

240* is pretty damn good. That is way in the safe zone. Many racecars run at 260* to 280* without much problem. The issue with our cars is stay with the factory ECU which pulls timing and will put you into limp mode at 265*. Good motor oil which we all run doesn't even start to break down or become an issue until well over 300*. The real issue with heat is water temperature and with oil it is oil pressure. I don't recall ever reading about an engine letting go because of oil temps but because of oil pressure and extreme water temps. My temps are high(260* max) on the most small tracks from a mile to about 1.5 miles which require a lot of shifting, running on the rev limiter and short straight aways that don't allow for good air flow to aid cooling. Oh and then that can be compounded by running in traffic as well. All of those things lead to heat soak which is a performance killer and the over all impact could be catastrophic.

Elmo370z · 01-18-2021, 11:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Hotrodz

240* is pretty damn good. That is way in the safe zone. Many racecars run at 260* to 280* without much problem. The issue with our cars is stay with the factory ECU which pulls timing and will put you into limp mode at 265*. Good motor oil which we all run doesn't even start to break down or become an issue until well over 300*. The real issue with heat is water temperature and with oil it is oil pressure. I don't recall ever reading about an engine letting go because of oil temps but because of oil pressure and extreme water temps. My temps are high(260* max) on the most small tracks from a mile to about 1.5 miles which require a lot of shifting, running on the rev limiter and short straight aways that don't allow for good air flow to aid cooling. Oh and then that can be compounded by running in traffic as well. All of those things lead to heat soak which is a performance killer and the over all impact could be catastrophic.

Me and eddie were running 270-280 oil temps last May at Sebring. This is NA with a 72 row. I’m impressed as well with 240 oil temps being boosted

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