RCZ's 370Z Journal.

wstar · 05-27-2011, 08:39 PM

Is that a PC680, mounted on the other side of the wall from how Travisjb mounted his? Nice spot for preserving the stock trunk setup indeed.

travisjb · 05-27-2011, 09:11 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by wstar

Is that a PC680, mounted on the other side of the wall from how Travisjb mounted his? Nice spot for preserving the stock trunk setup indeed.

Looks like it (based on the 48x48 pixel pics! lol)... so long as Raul used a serious bracket and 3/8" fasteners he should be good to go... I had mounted mine on the other side (rearwards) in order to avoid flying batteries in the event of a front impact. Today, my battery is mounted in the passenger seat area.

RCZ · 05-27-2011, 10:33 PM

Yeah, I got bigger pics via email and it's pretty smug and tied down in there. It's going to take 0 trunk space and the weight is in a nice place, not too far back. It's a pc925 not the 680. Jay recommended it due to the FI. Gotta keep a lot of stuff happy. I'm not really worried about keeping from becoming a projectile.

jnaut · 05-27-2011, 10:41 PM

Yep, it ain't going anywhere. But its where it belongs right on top of the rear axle and no loss of trunk space. I recommended the little larger battery due to his car with all options plus sc system.

Mr.Squeeze · 05-28-2011, 12:04 AM

Need a magnifying glass to see those small pictures lol good work jnaut.

RCZ · 05-28-2011, 09:08 AM

sig11 · 05-28-2011, 12:06 PM

Wow. I really want to do that same thing. Would sit really well next to my amplifier.

How quickly do those batteries lose their charge? Are you stuck on a trickle charger if you don't drive every day?

wstar · 05-28-2011, 12:32 PM

You'd probably be fine with the one RCZ is using, even if you have some minor stereo upgrades.

I use the smaller PC680 on an even longer positive cable run, and with my alternator 10% underdriven (20% Stillen underdrive crank pulley + 10% NST overdrive alternator pulley), and in the long run that setup works as long as you're mindful of what you're dealing with.

By that I mean: it would work perfect if I *always* drove the car at least once every 1-2 days, and every drive was 30 minutes+, and I never burn down the battery level on accessories with the engine off (e.g. playing with the window up/down a lot while engine off). You start violating these constraints, and the PC680 will weaken a bit. Too many violations in a short span of time, before the alternator can make up for it, and you can easily find yourself unable to start the car.

My setup was even more finicky (but still, not all that bad) before I added the 10% alternator overdrive pulley. That change was very noticeable in terms of battery charge/discharge patterns for me.

Anyways, since I do violate those constraints on a pretty regular basis, I added a little Schumacher-style charging pigtail to my battery to plug in a trickle charger when I know it needs a little boost. I highly recommend the actual Odyssey-brand Ultimizer chargers for their batteries. They do a special charging cycle that works best with their own batteries, although I guess any high-quality charger which uses a charging profile designed for AGM battery internals should work (i.e. not some random cheap trickle charger from AutoZone).

RCZ · 05-28-2011, 01:27 PM

Good info there wstar.

For those of you who want to do the same thing, Jnaut will be coming out with a battery relocation kit that will look like mine. Install should be pretty simple and the kit will come with everything you need to do it in your garage.

Priorities will be good pricing, quality components and ease of installation (with instructions). Will probably offer different batteries for you racers out there and some options like kill switch and remote terminals. ETA is probably a few weeks/month. We'll keep you guys updated.

MightyBobo · 05-28-2011, 02:15 PM

I like this...but, when you relocate the battery, dont you need a remote cut-off switch or something to pass tech?

wstar · 05-28-2011, 05:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by MightyBobo

I like this...but, when you relocate the battery, dont you need a remote cut-off switch or something to pass tech?

I imagine it varies by sanctioning body and classification, and in some cases the rules don't care whether the battery is relocated or not either. For example NHRA wants an external kill switch on the rear of the bumper, and some NASA stuff wants one inside the cockpit in reach of the driver.

AFAIK, generally speaking, kill switches mandated by safety rules should cut the positive side rather than the negative side, and generally they need to cut all electrical function, not just the battery (so it's not enough to just put a switch inline with the positive battery cable: you have to kill power to the spark immediately as well, which I imagine means one or more of: switching off the alternator's output, switching off the ignition coils' input, switching off power to the ECU).

On my jerry-rigged homebrew relocation solution, I put a 200A breaker on the negative side close to the battery (inside the trunk) as a safety feature against any sort of battery short-circuit condition, and to make it easy to disconnect the negative side when working on the car. It has never tripped when starting the engine, even on hard starts (long dormant + cold weather). But this doesn't qualify as a safety kill switch in any sense.

RCZ · 05-29-2011, 12:48 AM

It should be pretty easy to build in a kill switch on the relocation kit. Either I or Jay will let you all know as soon as we have something more concrete.

christian370z · 05-29-2011, 12:04 PM

Nice battery relocation mod, it looks like it was factory installed. Must be a nice bit of weight loss too over the large OEM battery, can't wait to see what Jnaut comes up with!

RCZ · 06-04-2011, 05:12 PM

Went to the track today, didnt race, but my friend brought along a new BMW 1M and we flogged that thing around the track. Here are some pics.

There was also a nice race prepped 370Z there, talked to the owner, got a lot of interesting tips. He was running Stillen Gen 3's, KW V3's, brembos, APR front splitter, stillen canards, APR GT300 wing, I think SSR wheels.

birdmanx1 · 06-04-2011, 05:17 PM

I'm digging your rims a lot RCZ, the bumper, lips, spoiler, your engine... your ride as a whole. Cool pics BTW

05-27-2011, 08:39 PM	#1531 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3594	Is that a PC680, mounted on the other side of the wall from how Travisjb mounted his? Nice spot for preserving the stock trunk setup indeed. __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details

05-27-2011, 10:41 PM	#1534 (permalink)
jnaut A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2009 Location: wpb, fl Posts: 1,146 Drives: 09 370z Rep Power: 17	Yep, it ain't going anywhere. But its where it belongs right on top of the rear axle and no loss of trunk space. I recommended the little larger battery due to his car with all options plus sc system. __________________ Best 1/4 mile 12.24 Best mph 114.5_______

05-28-2011, 12:04 AM	#1535 (permalink)
Mr.Squeeze A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Aug 2010 Location: Keystone state Posts: 1,209 Drives: 2010 370z Rep Power: 20153	Need a magnifying glass to see those small pictures lol good work jnaut. __________________ Driven Motorsports Single Turbo 7675 T4 1.32 A/R 995WHP 780TQ

05-28-2011, 12:32 PM	#1538 (permalink)
wstar A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Mar 2009 Location: Houston, TX Posts: 4,024 Drives: too slow Rep Power: 3594	You'd probably be fine with the one RCZ is using, even if you have some minor stereo upgrades. I use the smaller PC680 on an even longer positive cable run, and with my alternator 10% underdriven (20% Stillen underdrive crank pulley + 10% NST overdrive alternator pulley), and in the long run that setup works as long as you're mindful of what you're dealing with. By that I mean: it would work perfect if I always drove the car at least once every 1-2 days, and every drive was 30 minutes+, and I never burn down the battery level on accessories with the engine off (e.g. playing with the window up/down a lot while engine off). You start violating these constraints, and the PC680 will weaken a bit. Too many violations in a short span of time, before the alternator can make up for it, and you can easily find yourself unable to start the car. My setup was even more finicky (but still, not all that bad) before I added the 10% alternator overdrive pulley. That change was very noticeable in terms of battery charge/discharge patterns for me. Anyways, since I do violate those constraints on a pretty regular basis, I added a little Schumacher-style charging pigtail to my battery to plug in a trickle charger when I know it needs a little boost. I highly recommend the actual Odyssey-brand Ultimizer chargers for their batteries. They do a special charging cycle that works best with their own batteries, although I guess any high-quality charger which uses a charging profile designed for AGM battery internals should work (i.e. not some random cheap trickle charger from AutoZone). __________________ 7AT Track Car! Journal thread / Car setup details Last edited by wstar; 05-28-2011 at 12:34 PM.

05-28-2011, 02:15 PM	#1540 (permalink)
MightyBobo A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: Las Vegas, NV Posts: 8,465 Drives: No cars; only bikes Rep Power: 52	I like this...but, when you relocate the battery, dont you need a remote cut-off switch or something to pass tech? __________________ I don't own a car anymore.

05-27-2011, 10:33 PM	#1533 (permalink)
RCZ A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Miami Posts: 6,403 Drives: '09 370Z Rep Power: 1118	Yeah, I got bigger pics via email and it's pretty smug and tied down in there. It's going to take 0 trunk space and the weight is in a nice place, not too far back. It's a pc925 not the 680. Jay recommended it due to the FI. Gotta keep a lot of stuff happy. I'm not really worried about keeping from becoming a projectile.

05-28-2011, 12:06 PM	#1537 (permalink)
sig11 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Detroit Posts: 1,294 Drives: 09 370Z Red Sport-MT Rep Power: 18	Wow. I really want to do that same thing. Would sit really well next to my amplifier. How quickly do those batteries lose their charge? Are you stuck on a trickle charger if you don't drive every day?

05-28-2011, 01:27 PM	#1539 (permalink)
RCZ A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Miami Posts: 6,403 Drives: '09 370Z Rep Power: 1118	Good info there wstar. For those of you who want to do the same thing, Jnaut will be coming out with a battery relocation kit that will look like mine. Install should be pretty simple and the kit will come with everything you need to do it in your garage. Priorities will be good pricing, quality components and ease of installation (with instructions). Will probably offer different batteries for you racers out there and some options like kill switch and remote terminals. ETA is probably a few weeks/month. We'll keep you guys updated.

05-29-2011, 12:48 AM	#1542 (permalink)
RCZ A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Miami Posts: 6,403 Drives: '09 370Z Rep Power: 1118	It should be pretty easy to build in a kill switch on the relocation kit. Either I or Jay will let you all know as soon as we have something more concrete.

05-29-2011, 12:04 PM	#1543 (permalink)
christian370z A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jul 2010 Location: Newport Beach Posts: 3,900 Drives: 2010 370Z/Saab 900se Rep Power: 432	Nice battery relocation mod, it looks like it was factory installed. Must be a nice bit of weight loss too over the large OEM battery, can't wait to see what Jnaut comes up with! __________________ -320whp / 259wftlbs- SP Rays -- RE-11s -- SpecialtyZ Tune -- Swift Springs -- Stillen 25R Oil Cooler -- Stillen G3 Intakes -- Berk HFCs -- F.I. 12" CBE -- Stillen Sway Bars -- Es14 Spring -- INGS+1 lip -- CF Spoiler -- GTR Start Button -- VLED Parking Lights -- PWJDM V2 shift knob

06-04-2011, 05:12 PM	#1544 (permalink)
RCZ A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Miami Posts: 6,403 Drives: '09 370Z Rep Power: 1118	Went to the track today, didnt race, but my friend brought along a new BMW 1M and we flogged that thing around the track. Here are some pics. There was also a nice race prepped 370Z there, talked to the owner, got a lot of interesting tips. He was running Stillen Gen 3's, KW V3's, brembos, APR front splitter, stillen canards, APR GT300 wing, I think SSR wheels. carlitos_370z likes this.

06-04-2011, 05:17 PM	#1545 (permalink)
birdmanx1 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jun 2010 Location: Baltimore, MD Age: 95 Posts: 3,175 Drives: 370z Nismo Rep Power: 24	I'm digging your rims a lot RCZ, the bumper, lips, spoiler, your engine... your ride as a whole. Cool pics BTW __________________ 370Z NISMO #0462 \| ClearBra \| 3M tint \| Head/Taillights \| Dynamat \| Black Roof \| Tommy Kaira HB \| CF Parts \| Berk HFCs \| FI SS \| NST Pulleys \| Takeda aFe \| K&N \| H&R Spacers \| Swift Spec R \| SPC F&R \| Zuperman M370 Nismo Vid \| Nismo Journal \| Nismo Rumble

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