RCZ's 370Z Journal.

RCZ

I haven't been dragging too much either, but I do plan on hopefully doing it sometime. Closest one is an hour away though (i Think), so its kinda a bitch to get over there.

We'll see. Maybe "soon to be a gtr's worst nightmare" can fly down and drag the car for me.

G37Sam

Sorry for whoring up your thread RCZ

Said like a wise man Shumby.. I'll leave it here

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RCZ

Jon,

If you are installing the normal kit, don't worry about tuning. You won't need to, the boost was perfect on mine. I could have saved some money by using Stillen's tune. If you tune it yourself, you don't get the warranty, that is right. What I would do is call up Josh and ask him if they will warranty a kit installed by Jnaut. He has a legit shop and full tools and as we have seen, he can install this kit no problem. I would put my name on the line and recommend having him install it. I have full confidence in his work.

NewYorkJon34

When the S/C time comes I might have to take you up on your offer, I'll prob save more taking it to jnaut. Plus he has experence now since he's already installed yours vs. some Nissan guy that honestly cares 0% about my car. When you say "normal kit", are you talking about the carb kit or race kit?

RCZ

The carb kit. The tuner kit you would have to tune yourself because it comes without fuel and without tuning. You will save money.

NewYorkJon34

I know you have a full stillen set-up & you made 390whp (mustang), Im curious to see how much more power I'd make with my full Fast Intentions set-up. I thought you would have actually made more power on the mustang dyno since stillen claims 515hp for the carb kit. And yes I know different dynos read differently, but a drivetrain loss of 125hp seems kinda high to me. I thought it would have at least made at least 420Whp-ish on a mustang dyno.

RCZ

You assume you will make more power because you have FI pipes, I'm not really sure why. Not really sure where you saw that they make more power than the Stillen setup? All the guys I've seen with the crazy numbers like 320-330whp on mustang dynos on bolt-ons are running Stillen cats and exhaust.

You have to remember a couple of factors when you look at my numbers. 1) Mustang dynos read lower than your average dyno like the dynojet Stillen and GTM use. So to say that 125hp is all drivetrain loss is unfair. Part of it is drivetrain loss, I'd say about 12% is drivetrain loss. So right off the bat take off about ~45hp from your 515 advertised.

2) As I mentioned Mustangs read lower than dynojets by a good 7-10% (take my baseline as proof. I dynoed in at 256whp on the mustang dyno, when the average baseline for a dynojet is 275whp) So you can substract another ~35hp.

3) The tune is not maxed out. We had to leave some margin of safety considering the ambient temperature and humidity down here in FL. It was 90 degrees here last night around 2AM. (I know you know) I track the car now and then so I can't afford to sacrifice safety over performance.

4) It was about 100 degrees ambient temp when I got tuned. (not much can be done about that)

Now in reality all these numbers are just numbers. They don't really mean anything. What you have to look at is the following... Stillen started at 276 and ended at 438. Thats a 58% increase in power. I started at 256 and ended at 383, that's a 50% gain. Once you factor in ambient temps, humidity, safety margin and the fact that we only really did 3 runs to get final numbers then I think its perfectly understandable to lose 5-10% in power. If I had been gunning for dyno queen numbers I would've done low temp runs with a bunch of ice in the reservoir. That wasn't the goal though.

One thing I noticed today when I went out to get some video is that oil temp really is a killer on these cars. I'm by no means overheating, but even at 220 degrees the car probably loses a good 30whp. I think I might invest a little money on heat shielding, a fan for the oil cooler and maybe even a cryo2 setup.

Q8y_drifter

I can definitely relate to the whole ambient temp issue especially during tuning. My car is N/A and my Uprev tuner had to put quite a large safety margin when tuning the ignition timing on my car because it was 130+F ambient temps and did not want any detonation to happen. He said that if I came back next winter I can gain another 10whp just by advancing the ignition timing (I made 20whp from his tune). Florida's humid summers make it even worse.

RCZ

Anyone with racing experience or a racing background want to give me some ideas to manage engine bay heat?

I'm looking at gold foil, but I want to see what other tips folks can give me. Any ideas will be appreciated.

http://www.elephantmotorsports.com/h...old-p-526.html

m4a1mustang

Biggest thing with engine bay heat is extracting the hot air.

A vented hood should work pretty well. If you had the space (which I don't think the Z does) you could actually use fans to help pull air out of the engine bay. Who knows, there might be enough space in there to rig something up. But at the very least, a nicely vented hood should help quite a bit!

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m4a1mustang

More pics of chairs.

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ChrisSlicks

I'd say heat soak in the engine bay raising the air intake temperature causes the real issue. Oil temp isn't really the issue but people associate the two because the temps often move together. Heat soak is much more of a problem on the street than it is on the track, on the track you normally have enough air moving through the engine bay and enough air moving through the intakes to keep temps reasonable.

The following is what most people experience on the street. Start up the cold car in the morning, drive for 10 minutes conservatively while it warms up. When they see the oil temp has hit 180 they go for a bit of a sprint, power feels good. Slow back down, sit at a traffic light for 2 minutes, engine bay temps climb, intakes and manifold temps climb. Go to take off from the traffic light and instantly feel the loss in power.

Not sure what the best solution would be for the street. Insulating as much of the intake as possible might help resist the heat for a little while, at least until you get moving again at highway speeds to cool things back down.

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Hotchkis ARB | Stillen CAI | Art Pipes | Berk CBE | Stillen AP Racing Brakes | AE Performance Oil Cooler | BC Racing ER Coilovers | Doran Control Arms

RCZ

You're exactly right. That is a very common situation for me. So I am trying to keep the engine bay a bit cooler. I'm trying to avoid having to get a vented hood just yet and would like to maximize what I can do now. Also, although I'm not really all that worried about water getting in (and concern has grown since the SC installation because there are somewhat exposed cables now) it does make a mess of things inside the bay when the elements can seep in.

I was thinking about lining the charge pipe with gold foil to keep heat from radiating everywhere else. I'm only hesitant because that pipe gets really hot...just need to find out how hot. Im guessing under 200 degrees so I'll be fine with the gold foil. Also, maybe lining the new intake manifold with foil can help keep heat out of it.

ALA CBRD Evo.

ChrisSlicks

The gold foil is best at reflecting radiant heat (i.e. keeping heat out), not sure how well it would work at keeping heat in as that heat would be conductive not radiant.

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Hotchkis ARB | Stillen CAI | Art Pipes | Berk CBE | Stillen AP Racing Brakes | AE Performance Oil Cooler | BC Racing ER Coilovers | Doran Control Arms

RCZ

EXACTLY, I thought about that and the answer would be to wrap in some kind of header wrap type material. It would look ugly though...I'm talking to the guys from Heat shield thermal insulation to see what they think...

What about some sort of insulating coating? Like ceramic or something to keep heat in?

EDIT: Found what I needed.