Originally Posted by TROOPER How much did the install cost? Nothing... i did it all myself. With the exception of taking the front struts to a shop to have the
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08-25-2010, 11:33 PM | #31 (permalink) | |
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Nothing... i did it all myself. With the exception of taking the front struts to a shop to have the springs swapped out which cost me a $20 tip.
Quote:
I don't think a camber kit would affect the height at all... with the minor adjustments that are done on the 370's that have them. (i dont have a camber kit, btw)
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08-26-2010, 12:16 AM | #32 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
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08-26-2010, 09:39 AM | #35 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
Same conclusion I came to on the exhaust "Stillen CBE" , for me it was just substances and function over from and style! Yes I do think the F.I. are great looking and sexy, but they hang too low for my taste, with 18" wheels the minute I go over some road kill my exhaust system will be done, driving on back mountain roads in the Poconos, Northeastern PA that low design can be a liability. I also think Stillen did his homework on the design and function of the “Y” pipe configuration, good gains and great sound! Just my two cents Alex
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Last edited by Elia Cid; 08-26-2010 at 09:53 AM. |
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10-10-2010, 10:46 AM | #37 (permalink) |
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can you post some more pics please. i still dont know if i want to go 20 or 25 in the rear. im doing 20 front but i have seen other rear photos that look like the 25 put the wheel outside the qtr panel and i want mine to be flush. how much negative camber are you running in the rear?
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10-10-2010, 12:44 PM | #38 (permalink) |
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Noice drop, I would have waited for the H&R springs BUT did not want spend the extra $$ on control arms. Had this set up on both of the Z33's but had to shell out the $$ for control arms to get camber back in spec. The same will apply for the Z34. Tires will wear out with the negeative camber. Rule of thumb is (was) anything over .75" drop will need camber. Eibachs with a .09 drop fr & rr I was able to get the negative dialed, not back to spec but within a sweet spot for better handeling and now with over 5k miles I see no wear at all.
Taking the drop to 1.3 like with the H&R will make the negative camber a bit more and I feel the control arms will be needed to bring back in spec. Now if the alignment can keep it an acceptable range and most important is no excessive wear, then I would have been all over the H&R's. Do not get wrong I loved my H&R's on the Z33 (a little harshed thou, but still awesome) and would have waited for them to come out for the Z34, but pulled the trigger on Eibachs and that is where they will stay until enough $$ for KW coilovers. Cutting the rear rubber spring mount WILL lower the car in the rear. It was proven effective on the Z33 as I did it to both Z33's. The only draw back is the rear struts may wear out sooner. Spacers: 20 mm fr and 25 mm rr look the best. If you want the flush look go with 20/20. With 25 mm rr the car looks like something is happening out back, a mean agressive look as opposed to the flush 20 mm (you mean you widened the rear? It still looks stock...haha) Be interested to see alignment data sheets from the OP. Overall very noice stance. |
10-10-2010, 01:07 PM | #39 (permalink) |
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I just got an alignment last week and trashed the sheet.... OOPS.
The area of alignment that was out of wack the most was the rear tow. Everything is back to factory spec with the exception of the camber. He said the camber in the front was still close to stock. In the back, somehow he managed to get a couple degrees of camber out of it with no control arms, but if i remember correctly... the rear camber is now at -2.3? Let me know if that sounds off, but i think thats what i remember. |
01-11-2011, 02:54 AM | #42 (permalink) |
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nice atx370z! keeping it simple with an aggressive stance, I'm digging it.
Just a few questions. Are you running the Ichiba bolt-on spacers or the ones that require you to change the studs? Any issues with steering wheel vibration? How's the ride quality? Thanks.
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