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Added a little badge where the V1 # plaque would be
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#16 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 3,250
Drives: 09 Nismo, 16 Nismo
Rep Power: 163995 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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Added a little badge where the V1 # plaque would be
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Setrab | RE-71 | SPL | JRZ | Nismo | ARK | Whiteline | RacingBrake | CJM Oil Pan | Ti shield |
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#19 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 3,250
Drives: 09 Nismo, 16 Nismo
Rep Power: 163995 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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The fake Rays are from AliExpress. Those are just plastic black blanks with various stickers of your choosing. Oh and I just found this: https://dynamicledemblem.com/product...-nissan-z-54mm
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Setrab | RE-71 | SPL | JRZ | Nismo | ARK | Whiteline | RacingBrake | CJM Oil Pan | Ti shield Last edited by cv129; 01-06-2025 at 09:43 AM. |
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#20 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 3,250
Drives: 09 Nismo, 16 Nismo
Rep Power: 163995 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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Worked hard last week, cleaned up the garage enough to park mine back into the garage, right before the cold front hit.
Wife picked the Z center cap. “Easy choice” she said.
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Setrab | RE-71 | SPL | JRZ | Nismo | ARK | Whiteline | RacingBrake | CJM Oil Pan | Ti shield Last edited by cv129; 01-06-2025 at 11:05 AM. |
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#22 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Aug 2015
Location: Deutschland + SC/FL USA
Posts: 1,269
Drives: 2011 370Z Nismo
Rep Power: 24277 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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You sure about that? I ran a wingless hatch from a base model on my 2011 Nismo and it lined up perfectly. I know the V2 bumpers are longer (to line up with the hatch) but never seen or heard anything about the V1 hatches.
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#23 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 3,250
Drives: 09 Nismo, 16 Nismo
Rep Power: 163995 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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The silver side marker has always bugged me a little. So I sprayed them KAE.
First attempt wasn’t very good, primer didn’t get to some of the edges of the “Z” so paint wasn’t sticking. I baked it a little and got the “Z” out, repainted it. Not perfect, but as good as I’m gonna get.
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Setrab | RE-71 | SPL | JRZ | Nismo | ARK | Whiteline | RacingBrake | CJM Oil Pan | Ti shield Last edited by cv129; 01-12-2025 at 06:59 PM. |
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#24 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
Join Date: Jul 2011
Location: Dallas, TX
Posts: 3,250
Drives: 09 Nismo, 16 Nismo
Rep Power: 163995 ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() |
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Car is done
![]() We are going to just keep the V2 body parts and wheels. Original hatch and spoiler remains. Just in case. Coating on the rotor hats came off and had some surface rust. Fixed that with some primer spray. New (used) hatch was sanded down and resprayed, matched the tint, wires were transplanted. Only thing is I have some rattling sound inside the hatch, gotta chase that down later. Car will very soon go to a detailer for a more serious paint correction, front bumper PPF, then ceramic coated.
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Setrab | RE-71 | SPL | JRZ | Nismo | ARK | Whiteline | RacingBrake | CJM Oil Pan | Ti shield Last edited by cv129; 02-06-2025 at 11:06 PM. |
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