Well do much more that seam welding. Well fully integrate a cage to stiffen her up.

The fender flares are in, and most worryingly the rust is all gone replaced by a few new panels and patches. I have to slightly straighten the front passenger fender mount and slide hammer out a few remaining dents, but basically she’s is straight, rust free, and ready for fuel cell install battery box relocation, cage installation then paint!https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...ee606fcdb5.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...a2b142d6d7.jpghttps://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...83e10dea24.jpg

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Fuel cell in. Cage started.

I'll be in the Denver area after the 4th for a week. You want to meet up?

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Cage progression

Sure. Pm me when your in town.

Surfdog’s 71 240
 

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Battery box in! Lower side impact cage bits tacked on! Dash crossmember in!!

Were getting there.

I have to get on the frame jig to make sure I’m straight before Russ can weld in the rear camber plates and the front strut to cage “braces” through my firewall. Also we’re awaiting some hardware for the hinged (higher) side impact cage bits. Once those tweaks are made and the cage is finished, and everything is nice and straight were off to paint!

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Surfdog’s 71 240
 

Lots of motor build progress.
Ld28 crank (stroker diesel crank)
280 block (overbored a bit)
JE pistons
Eagle h beam rods
Slightly hotter cams
Head studs
Gated, racing style, custom oil pan

Build with some help from the pros by its owner (my 11 year old)

Math tells me this will be a 3.09 liter.

Intuition tells me she should make a very torquey 250ish hp.

I think we’ll limit the revs (123 electronic ignition to set limit) to 7500 rpm, although I know she can safely handle more.

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Surfdog’s 71 240
 

Adjustable front and rear camber plates in.

Side impact bars in.

Vintage air a/c and heat controller in.

Front right corner under fender pulled straight.

Side draft Webber carbs and intake on hand.

Front top brace cut out and removable strut installed.

Next up:
Fabricate dash (custom race focused layout)
Paint.
Run brake lines
Run fuel lines
Ceramic coat exhaust
Reinstall glass into doors, hatch, windshield
Install remote (and full seized) oil filter

One engine build issue we had was the stroker (LD28) crank we used, pushed the rods too wide and into the side of the block. We had to radius the block a bit to fit the wider crank. https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/202...20af5daf66.jpg

Grinding block to fit wider crank stroke

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:tup:

Finding out that the rod hits the block is a "Ah fk me" moment. :icon14:

Surfdog’s 71 240
 

It also hit the oil breather screen up next to the no 1 piston. We gave the screen retainer bit a little “radiusing whack” to “customize” a better fit.

You can see the spot that screen slots into in the middle pic above (bottom left on pic)

RACECAR!

Hell yeah. I love this build!

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Stripping out sean sealant. It everywhere and sandblasting bounced right off it.

If you have the right media. It will remove the sealant.........along with the metal. :icon14:

How about dry ice?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

Surfdog’s 71 240
 

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Tow hooks on
Remote oil filter mounted
Remote/overflow and bleed coolant tank on
Camber plates on.

Interior body work (mostly removing excess seam sealant progressing)

We’re just finishing up fabrication of dash and other few things that need to weld in before we head off to paint.

There is a zcon show out here on denver we would like to be buttoned up enough to attend in August.

It will be tight

It’s already been blasted. The metal stripping shop did a nice job but a little of the sound dampening asphalt remained and all the excess seam sealer remained. It was a day with a powered wire wheel to clean that all up and I hit a few ugly welds with the grinder as well.

The uncovered portions of my interior (places I plan to leave bare in finished form) are all smooth, deburred and pretty for paint now.

Sandblasting got 99 percent of the ugly off. I worked on the bits left over. Honestly it was very fun and I think I saved a bit of money on prep when it goes to have the pros prep and paint now. (Yes I’ve learned my lesson not to do my own paint!!). Also every time I look those remaining welds I know *I* chose to keep them.

I’ve tried it both ways. The dry ice is good on newer still pliable stuff but this stuff is very old and brittle and pops right off. I stripped a 350 recently and the dry ice was very helpful.

Surfdog’s 71 240
 

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So smooth and shiney!! (Sealants removed!!)

Cool, the dry ice worked pretty well on the Z.

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Modifications to drive shaft hoop to get her to fit. (Much better to do it now pre paint)

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Driveshaft Hoop mods to fit better

:tup:

You need to post smaller pictures.

Smaller pictures. I second that.

Also, I really feel for you doing the seam sealer. I remember doing that last year... *shudders*

Surfdog’s 71 240
 

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Old picture, but here is the adjustable sway bar mod Greg welded on to my bigger sway bar. These (along with the similar other end on the strut) will make suspension setup much easier

We did the same, well similar, setup both front and rear.

We’ll connect them with home made heim joint style end links

Surfdog’s 71 240
 

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Just some random shop photos.

This is the lighter stronger crank ($3500) I did NOT use. It’s going on my buddies rebuild of his race motor. Sweeeet! So pretty it’s almost a shame to bolt it into a block where nobody can see it.

And also a cool pantera which rolled on for some work. (Completely unrelated but fun)

Oh crap!!! I made the pix too big again. I promise to do better. (I post off an app on the fly).

:tup:

Sweet Pantera. Got some 180* headers. Bet that sounds nice. :tup: Guy I went to high school with. His older brother had one. He used to take turns trying to scare the chit out of us.

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I love both the shops I work out of. The one out behind my house and this one (Greg’s!!)

Greg has become a bit of an expert on Zs. I’d go so far as to say he builds the singer porches of Z cars!

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Heat shield to keep some of that exhaust manifold heat off the intake stacks.

I’ve ordered shorter velocity stacks that will fit under my 3 intake filters.

Those stacks are too tall to accommodate my intake filters

I’m on my third set of stacks trying to get the setup correct. (The first too tall, the second to wide and did not fit inside filter housing. My third not so beautifully curved at the tips but are the right height and width to work.)

Oh well. We have discussed above how I don’t do a great job getting it right on my first try.

Speaking of which also under redesign is my radiator fan and shroud. The original large central fan and shroud did not give sufficient clearance for my big fat harmonic dampener and pulley setup, so it’s been pulled and I’ll use a custom made shroud and 2, 8” fans to pull air through my radiator/oil heat exchanger and my A/C cooler.

A bit more fabrication work (thanks Greg!) And it will now fit up there.

Surfdog’s 71 240
 

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...this setup was too thick in front of the crank pulley and ATI dampener. My new setup will involve a shroud that runs around the ATI.

It always something! ;)

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Hood is being fitted by body shop this week. (I want to have nice gaps and I don’t quite have the chops to make it nice)

Surfdog’s 71 240
 

Steering wheel refurb.

I didn’t realize that’s it’s a faux wood sandable stainable polymer stuff. It looks feels and sands like wood.

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Next up paint and stain.

Surfdog’s 71 240
 

This is the stuff I’m coating it with.

I sandblasted the beat up paint of the center spokes and 120 then 240 hand sanded off the lacquer or whatever ugly stuff was on the wood. I think it will look a lot better with just some clear coat on the wheel?? We’ll see.

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We custom fabbed up the fan shroud. (The old off the shelf one was too thick to clear my ATI harmonic crank balancer and pulley.

Surfdog’s 71 240
 

This is the too thick pre redesign one. I’m having a hard time making my app insert the pic of my new skinny one. You can see how there is no clearance for the harmonic damper

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