Mr. G. Brettin's Slow Motion Leg Hump

gbrettin

Turbo housings, front, and rear calipers came back from powder coat. I did a fresh rebuild on the calipers and got them mounted. After that I was able to get the wheels on the car so I officially have a roller again! My car is actually looking like a car again AND I can roll it back into the garage.... after I clean the garage a bit more.

It's nice having the puzzle pieces fit back together again. These pictures are over the last week. It certainly didn't happen in one day.

This post is a little heavy on the pictures with the wheels on... BUT... It looks bad azz. The car really feels like it is something special again vs being a swamp creature.

Rusty

__________________

浪人 - 殺し屋
"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

gbrettin

There was a recent Z meet at Madwai's place. In fact, most of the people that are still active on this form were likely there... lol Anyway... I was able to help my buddy Scott with a cross over pipe for his LS 370z turbo car. He was basically at the spot where he wanted to burn down his car because nothing goes as planned. Brother, I know this more than anyone. With that said, I was VERY happy to help. Although... I wish the AC was on in the garage. It was REALLY humid. Rusty was able to weld up the pipe after the pipe was fitted. There were some gaps, but nothing terrible. I've seen him weld way worse.

Progression is still moving forward on the carbon emblems. I used a file and sand paper to get excess carbon off. Then I was able to test the emblem on the rear bumper and I'm happy to say it fit with the correct curve. I then broke out the foil leaf and tried my hand at getting that laid into the "NISSAN" lettering. I've never worked with foil leaf but I can assure you getting the glue perfect is the key. I messed up one emblem and had to start over. Q-tips were used to put the glue in which made a mess. Incorrectly I assumed I could just rub off the foil/glue in the areas that had excess. Wrong. That just made a mess. I then changed to a tooth pick to dot glue in and that worked (poorly). Last attempt I used a stiff brush to paint the glue in. That worked perfectly, go figure using the correct tool for the job.

Last picture shows a skim coat of epoxy over the foil and blemishes. I just need to sand the part so it's leveled out and then use automotive clear. Automotive clear sounds easy right? Well.... I've never mixed up clear to shoot out of a spray gun, so this should be interesting when I get to that this weekend.

Update on the car... well.... I'm kind of in a holding pattern. I need the heads from the machine shop. Once I get that, I can assemble the long block and dump the engine/trans into the chassis. I'm not certain I can get that done over the next few months unfortunately. I have my last three classes due for my bachelor's degree and I'm going to focus on that mostly. My car will likely collect some dust with or with out the engine in the chassis until that is done.

As much as I want this project done this year... It's not worth sacrificing work, school, family (most important). Updates will be slow.

gbrettin

Trying to get one of the emblems out the door and it looks like it's in good shape now. The emblems were sanded out and then Nason 2 part clear was used with a Harbor Freight spray gun. The clear is close to 200 dollars, but I wasn't really happy with the 2 part spray cans because they were 35 bucks while offering very little UV protection. Using the spray gun is the long term solution because it appears I am going to need to do some parts for my car when the time comes. I'm planning on wrapping up the part today and tomorrow so that I can get the emblem out to the owner. I'm hoping he does a quick video blurb about what he thinks.

At this point, I'm really happy with the results so far. The carbon part is not perfect because it has very minor flaws. I don't necessarily like that... but I will not keep changing the mold to get a perfect replica either. I have technical fixes for most all the problem areas; with many being resolved during implementation. Other fixes would require a new casting of the mold to make things "easier". Seeking perfection is fantastic, and it hurts when it isn't, but that's not my ultimate goal with this project. That being said... I'm also not trying to make something so homegrown that it looks garbage on the car.

The goal is to work with carbon to learn techniques while making something useful for someone/something. That's it. I feel like I've accomplished that here. I'm also open airing out my learning and fails here because it's quite valuable to learn from the failures in a productive way.

Hopefully I can show the final product in a few days, but this is where I landed. Please feel free to ask any questions.

First four pictures are the first coat of clear. Second to the last is an overview of what the prep looked like. Last picture is the second coat of clear. I need to wet sand and test fit the emblem one last time and then cut out some two sided tape for the back side.



Rear Emblem close up, wet clear.


Front Emblem close up, wet clear.


First coat dried and shown... in the sun somewhat. Better view would be on my IG reel below. Including the picture if you don't want to go to IG


Link to my IG (worth the view IMO):
https://www.instagram.com/reel/C9c4t...RlODBiNWFlZA==

Wet sanded and preparing for spray.


2nd coat of clear. I tried to get the glare of the sun on the emblem so you could see the clear on the part. I laid the clear thick, too thick if I were spraying a car panel. I wanted to have material to sand so I didn't sand through to the part.

gbrettin

An add on from the previous post... I bought some Harbor Freight car dollies and stuffed my car in the garage. She's going to live there for a bit, but it will be easy to move when needed. I'll get the long block assembled when ever I get time in-between classes. Cars are fun... but it's more important to not overload with non essential tasks. I'm quite happy with just having a clean roller TBH. I suspect the next stop will be Jay's Wiring in Michigan during the winter months. Jay is a master at professional car wiring. I simply don't feel like mounting that challenge on the build.

gbrettin

Another loose end tied up. The rear emblem was sanded and polished then fitted to the bumpers. They're a touch off of OEM but not bad at all.

Lessons learned from this project have been great. One of the biggest debates internally is the lettering on the emblem. It's a mixed bag. For me, the lettering is imperfectly awesome and looks amazing when you stand back a bit. MOST everyone is about 2-3' away from a car even when checking them out. Also, this is a hand crafted object on the FIRST iteration. It's not an excuse to be slopy on a project, but a realization that growth happens every time you sharpen a skill. That's the nature of how learning works, nerds.

While I was push mowing my lawn last night (Yeah, I do that) I was considering different methods of making the lettering crisp. Someone on Reddit suggested cutting vinyl. Someone else suggested painting. Both of those methods would still be difficult because of how the emblem is embossed. Where I landed, whilst mowing, was 3D scanning the mold and then printing lettering separate that would have the exact same surface contour of the lettering but slightly smaller. This would allow me to paint, foil, or vinyl lettering any way I want. This will be a great starter project after I pick up a scanner and printer in January. Ultimately, getting the scanner and printer was my next thing I wanted to do anyway. Now I have a use case.

Anyway... These emblems turned out great for the first set. Appreciate the people that have followed on IG and reached out to me and left comments. That's very encouraging when there's a wall of work for completion that must be knocked down.

I'd give them a 7/10 for a quality score. I'm picky. Just because I make something doesn't change standards.

gbrettin

Trying to figure out placement for my power steering pump and I believe the perfect spot is where my rear sump pan use to be. The pump will be in perfect proximity of the rack. I have a remote reservoir that I can mount somewhere on the passenger side
Heads came back from the machine shop. I'm part owner of a hydraulic press at Auto Dynamix so I'm going to crimp all the lines... everywhere. I'm going to weld the metal bracket to an L piece of metal and then bolt that to the k-member. Access should be simple with the car on a hoist.

Heads came back from the machine shop so I started assembly. It wasn't bad because I've been down the road a few times. However, it was brought to my attention that gasket isn't 7 layer MLS. The gasket went on WAY too easy and didn't seem right... well, that's why. No worries! I talked to Paul with BTR and he is overnighting me the correct 7 layer gasket. Minor setback but it's better to find the error with the engine already out vs before pushing coolant under 25lbs+ boost (which is quite normal for small displacement engine like mine).

Good news here: The cylinder heads are on the block so I don't have to worry about the cylinders being exposed under a plastic bag. It bothered me.

One cool thing that I found that Baker Engineering did for my block was they stamped the assembly date into the short block.

With all that said... I'm going to continue to work on my car in-between work and class. The level of effort will be pretty low and I'll be able to walk away from the project easily. Small progress chunks only.

gbrettin

BTR sent me version 2 shaft rocker arms because the tooling steel on the v1 tends to break where the circlip groves are. v2 does not have any machining on the shaft and uses washers. BTR also sent me the v2 rocker arms that has improved oil control. I have a good rep that I deal with there and he took care of me. Paul from BTR ALSO next day shipped LS9 small bore gaskets which have 7 layers of steel. 7 layer mls greatly helps with not pushing coolant (that and head studs). I'd likely be ok with the regular gasket... but there's no reason not to use the 7 layer now.

When putting the new shaft rockers on I was having a hard time getting the rocker arms to seat correctly. Turns out that the heads needed to be chased out where the bolts went in. Easy fix and all of the push rod lengths are dead nuts on. Infact, I had a touch more slop in last time.

Last thing I put on was the LOJ oil pan and Motion Raceworks valve covers. Man, that's a nice unit. The capacity is huge and it works perfectly in my build. LOJ put in oil traps so that oil starvation doesn't happen. Another nice thing is the oil dipstick being right up front on the passenger side. The Motion Raceworks valve covers get the chef's kiss. They are designed to prevent oil from reaching the catch can, which is obviously ideal. Check out the video if you get a moment.

Next steps will be getting the accessories on and possible mounting the PS pump. I'm trying to bite off smaller tasks in-between classes and work. Having the car in the garage helped out a TON.

Edit - I tried scrubbing the rest of the swamp scum off the block and it is embedded into the paint. I guess swamp particle will enjoy the ride on my refreshed block.

gbrettin

Found a little time to get more of the engine together over the weekend and worked on low hanging fruit. The motion raceworks billet valve covers came with IGN1-A coil mounts. My AMP EFI coil packs have heat sinks which interfered with the bracket. I had to grind off a bit of material to make them work. I guess why I'm showing this is because even though you purchase a solution it could still require modification. This has been my experience for nearly everything. I'm not upset about it at all, just pointing out the reality. Clearance was easily made with a finger sander (awesome tool! highly recommended)

The water pump was polished with a small Chinese orange drill pad and m105 because there were swamp water spots that didn't exactly wipe off. The block also has embedded block that doesn't want to scrub off either. The swamp is part of the character of the build on the block as far as I'm concerned. It is what it is.

Starter and engine mounts were also put on. I'm thanking my past self because I bagged all the bolts with labels, which made my life easy. Even the engine mounts were labeled with direction (because if you remember I put those on backwards before and attempted to drop the engine in the car (which didn't work).

The scavenger had interference issues with the oil pan and dipstick. The bandsaw came in handy for this one because I was able to trim the heat sink for the oil pump. Bottom mounting tabs were cut off and I had to notch where the dipstick interfered. After the scavenger was finished mounted you can easily see that the pump lined up absolutely perfect for the timing cover turbo drain. That was a concern of mine. Previously the drain went into the pain. The timing cover drain is a WAY better solution for my need and is clean.

Valley pan, lower plenum, and upper plenum were put on to ensure nothing goes down the cylinders. I'd rather not take the heads off again. I've got to say... it looks WAY better than the twin intake. I'm very happy with all the components and changes that have been made along the way. Functionally nailing down all the stuff I didn't like previously. Aesthetically it is looking really pleasing to look at.

OH, last thought. The first picture you will see proper plenum studs! The old heads got donated to the shop because the old heads were slightly off on those holes due to them getting stripped out a long while back. Putting the lower plenum on was SO MUCH EASIER THAN THE Holley plenum.

I feel much better about the engine getting stored over winter if I can't get back to the engine build due to college commitments.

gbrettin

I'm back! Mostly finished my degree and it was a PITA. Probably one of the harder things I've done due to the time constraints. I'm still grinding out an Internship and a required Biology class to officially graduate, but the core degree has been completed.

A review of the car was needed so I could get my bearings on where I left off and a few things jumped out at me.

1.) The rear Sikky inserts need to come out. This is because I cut a big azz hole in my trunk for the quick change. There's no reason for the spacers now.

2.) I'm embarrassed the rear alignment is so far out of whack. That needs to be somewhat in the ball park before it's dropped off.

3.) Rear shock adjustment needs to come down, a lot.

4.) Accessory drive needs to go on the engine. I had a 400amp alt if you recall... but... My buddies Dave and Nick burned their alt up one day before Drag Week so I gave them my new one. SO... I took this chance to do what I normally do, and paid the difference for an aluminum case fancy faced alt (pictures later this week).

The first grenade I jumped on was getting dimensions for the electric MR2 steering pump. Doing this took a bit longer than anticipated. Like... way too long. Cardboard Aided Design, Tape, and caveman measurements were used to obtain a really nice fitting piece. I'll need to transfer the cardboard over to exact measurements to replicate the bracket. I'm going to use SendCutSend to make a custom mount from all the dimensions I give them. I don't technically need the MA motorsports mount because I'll have mounting tabs made right into the part.

Getting the suspension and shock adjustments in the ball park was exhausting. The settings were just getting it eyeballed correct. The rear of the car had to be jacked up and down no less than 20 times. This was only done on one side of the car because I'll transfer all the settings to the other side after. Unfortunately the rear tires are a bit too much on the meaty side. I'll need to either clearance or get a slightly smaller tire. At this point, I'm thinking a 305/40r18 is needed and I'll take off the 305/45r18. (see link)

In recent updates... I found a buyer for my Shearer Fab A2W plenum so I will move forward with move forward with the Tick Performance A2W. This will allow fewer cuts on my Varis hood (I REALLY like that hood).

https://www.jegs.com/i/Mickey-Thomps.../3482/10002/-1
https://www.tickperformance.com/tick...y-ram-intakes/

ZontheRocks

Build is looking sick!

Congrats on the educational achievement!

__________________
'16 Pearl White Sport | Stillen Gen. 3 | Motordyne ART | Motordyne Shockwave | ZSpeed | Powertrix | EVO-R | Aeroworkz | Nismo | Z1 | EcuTek | Tuned by Seb @ SpecialtyZ

sx moneypit

gbrettin

I've been letting the suspension settle out the last couple days to see where everything landed, and she's low. I need to bring it up a touch. The more I look at everything the more I see there are two options.

1. Roll and cut some metal.
2. Purchase rear over fenders from the Kamikaze-Z Aero over fenders (see link of Jason Gale's beautiful car). I can run 325/45r18 then. I don't mind having excessive tire.
https://nextlevelperf.com/product/va...n-370z/#view-5

I'm actually leaning towards the over fender and side skirts because those would only be the pieces needed. I currently have Varis Arising side skirts... so I'd have to sell those because they don't mate up with the rear over fenders. Lance with Next Level Performance is getting me a quote... hopefully it isn't too painful. The over fenders would be nice because I have a small dent from my accident last year on the wheel well. The front of the car would still be the Weber Sport (see link for reference) and the fenders are the +10mm Seibon (see link).
https://nextlevelperf.com/product/we...ssan-370z-z34/
https://seiboncarbon.com/carbon-fibe...0mm-wider.html

I should paint the picture of what I'm visualizing how this will all come together.

The front of the Weber sport is going to be functional for my needs. The center section is going to have a carbon/kevlar air duct for my V-mount radiator. The inlet will have a section that leads to the radiator, similar to how it was before... but refined. The back side of the radiator will vent air out the center section of my Varis hood (see link). I may not run an airbox on the backside initially. Carbon is a lot of work.
https://nextlevelperf.com/product/va...d-nissan-370z/

I also would like to change my plenum one more time to the Tick Performance A2W. I found a buyer for my Shearer Fab A2W. This will allow me NOT to cut the core of the hood where it's reinforced. However, it's not a deal breaker if the Shearer Fab buyer falls through. I will find out if he really will purchase in December.
https://www.tickperformance.com/tick...y-ram-intakes/

Moving back up to the front of the Weber Sport bumper. The turbos will remain in their location and have ducting to the turbo inlets AND accommodate filters. Cool air and the turbos are away from the engine is nice.

The Seibon fenders will be cut where the existing vent is. I'm going to make a large fender extractor to duct the air out. This will likely happen after MANY of the other components are done. A way later project... because it will never be "done"...It MUST be functional next year. I don't think I can go another year of a non functional car eating my wallet to death. Next year problems I guess.

Hopefully that vision makes sense.

Switching gears.... An attempt was made to mount the mid mount 400amp alt. That was a complete fugging bust. I spoke with the machine shop that created the mid mount design and he is working on getting me something that will fit. If the design was flipped to the other side it would work fine. He mentioned that he had been working on something last year and would look at it this coming weekend. I assured him I would purchase if he has something that works. One thing that is a REAL PITA is getting accessories working with an electric pump. My low mount solution previously was very difficult for maintenance. The tensioner worked... but I had no confidence it wouldn't send a belt to the moon at 8,500-9000rpm. The 400amp alt is needed because everything I have on the car runs off of electric. Specifically the power steering pump and electric AC will be the mother load of draw. You might ask yourself... why AC on a race car? well... simple. The car get HOT AF with the engine and transmission. Performance makes a sh1t ton of radiant heat. Here's the type of AC I'm going to run:


I know this is a lot of text. It actually helps me out writing this stuff down too. Also, I've been at this blog like post pretty faithfully for years now. Doesn't seem right to with hold information at this point. I've had people contact me saying that my write-ups have helped. So that keeps me going doing this. It's also a good write up on why I'm never building a car like this again. I'll just build this car only.

gbrettin

The k-member was cut for my rear sump previously and the oil pan has been changed to a front sump so I have some extra room. A template was made so that I can take advantage of this extra space with my power steering pump. Lines will be very short to the steering rack and I can mount the reservoir next to my swirl pot. The plate steel was mounted by drilling holes through the k-member into the plate steel. I would have finished the center section of the mount... but my drill sh1t the bed on me. I'll probably knock the rest of it out over this weekend.

The mount was going to be plasma cut, but the k-member was cut with a sawzaw and didn't require precision. Good enough was just fine for this. Although... I transferred the template to a thin piece of cardboard and tested twice before I cut the metal. Mounting screws will be nipped down to size just past the nut. Also, the MA Motorsports mount will be welded to the cut out area in the plate and Ill likely put a skid plate on because it will hang a bit below the k-member.

gbrettin

This deserves its own post because accessories have plagued me from the start of this build.... plenty of documentation on that here. The F-body spacing works absolutely perfect. There's a large air gap between the passenger side exhaust manifold. OEM casting on the passenger side was casted so that it sits slightly lower than driver's side. I'll post a head on image of the forward facing manifolds so you can see how it sits. It's a fantastic feeling when things work the way you want them to!

Additional information, This Mechman has a large frame which made it so I couldn't low mount on the driver's side. Low mount space on the passenger side is being used for my scavenger pump that dumps into a port into the timing cover... That's not ideal to change but not impossible. The BEST location was specifically in the passenger mid mount area. A reminder why I need such a wild alternator is because I'm running electric everything: Water pump, power steering, radiator fan, transmission cooler fan, two water pumps, and all the other typical car electronics. However, that wouldn't call for such a powerful alt. The future goal is to run electric AC in the car.

Ok so why electric AC? The idea is to keep the accessory drive as simple as possible and to keep the engine bay clean. The electric AC can also move to the trunk for better weight distribution. AC is a future problem/expense Ill deal with later. It's important to have the foundation so I can build that AC component out down the road.

One cool thing that I did on the ICT bracket was cutting an aluminum tube down perfectly so that I could use the Motion Raceworks freeze plug billet stop. Blue dye was transferred to the aluminum tube, then I took a measurement of the Motion Raceworks plug with digital calipers, then I used the caliper to scribe the aluminum support tube, and then cut the tube with my bandsaw carefully (slowly).