Mr. G. Brettin's Slow Motion Leg Hump

gbrettin · 09-06-2022, 09:44 AM

All the leaks have been addressed on the car with the exception of one. ANPlumbing lines proved their worth on everything with the exception of the pan, and that's because the rear fitting has been gacked (see picture). With that said, the pan had to be pulled off no matter if I want to repair or get a new pan. I opted to get a new Sikky rear sump pan that can hold 7.5qts, has traps, and most importantly has ORB bungs that screw into the pan so that AN lines can attach. Here's the pan:
https://www.sikky.com/product/370z-l...-sump-oil-pan/

Getting the old pan off was a challenge. I went to harbor freight and picked up an engine support bar so that the engine could remain in place. The engine is also being supported by the transmission. Prior to finding the engine support bar I was stressed out because I thought that I was going to have to disassemble the front end of the car, disconnect all wiring and take off the transmission. SOOO, happy about not doing that. That's not to say getting the k-member to drop off wasn't a challenge... it's about 1/10th of the challenge that pulling the engine represented. lol. The pan is currently off and I'm now waiting for my other pan to arrive.

Prior to pulling the pan I drained the oil (obviously) but also removed the Clearview filter. The screen caught a few larger debris which was cool to see it was working. While inspecting the Clearview I noticed some oil seeping out the side, not a lot, so the whole unit was tightened up (the bolts were loose snug so they were snugged with a 1/4 turn past). New K&N gold has now replaced the STP filter. Engine masters did a oil filter test with the K&N gold filter that's worth checking out.

Ok, so back to the pan. I noticed break in of bearing materials at the bottom of the pan with no evidence of the engine eating its self. The engine probably has about 45min of run time total at this point with about 4 heat cycles. I think it's time to pour the 14w - 40 Amsoil engine oil in when the new pan goes on. The engine will get dyno time and about 100mi before the next change. I know there's a lot of ideas about break in theory but this is the path I'm taking. My main goal is to keep contaminants to a minimum.

So my off time I really wanted to get the mold going again for my cubby. I have the whole mold roughed out so I can do vacuum bagging. I gave up on the compression mold idea due to the height on the back side. Lots of hand sanding in my near future.

Lastly, I needed a simple win... so I installed my parachute handle.

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09-06-2022, 09:44 AM	#11 (permalink)
gbrettin A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Portage, MI Posts: 2,292 Drives: Tricycle Rep Power: 589151	All the leaks have been addressed on the car with the exception of one. ANPlumbing lines proved their worth on everything with the exception of the pan, and that's because the rear fitting has been gacked (see picture). With that said, the pan had to be pulled off no matter if I want to repair or get a new pan. I opted to get a new Sikky rear sump pan that can hold 7.5qts, has traps, and most importantly has ORB bungs that screw into the pan so that AN lines can attach. Here's the pan: https://www.sikky.com/product/370z-l...-sump-oil-pan/ Getting the old pan off was a challenge. I went to harbor freight and picked up an engine support bar so that the engine could remain in place. The engine is also being supported by the transmission. Prior to finding the engine support bar I was stressed out because I thought that I was going to have to disassemble the front end of the car, disconnect all wiring and take off the transmission. SOOO, happy about not doing that. That's not to say getting the k-member to drop off wasn't a challenge... it's about 1/10th of the challenge that pulling the engine represented. lol. The pan is currently off and I'm now waiting for my other pan to arrive. Prior to pulling the pan I drained the oil (obviously) but also removed the Clearview filter. The screen caught a few larger debris which was cool to see it was working. While inspecting the Clearview I noticed some oil seeping out the side, not a lot, so the whole unit was tightened up (the bolts were loose snug so they were snugged with a 1/4 turn past). New K&N gold has now replaced the STP filter. Engine masters did a oil filter test with the K&N gold filter that's worth checking out. Ok, so back to the pan. I noticed break in of bearing materials at the bottom of the pan with no evidence of the engine eating its self. The engine probably has about 45min of run time total at this point with about 4 heat cycles. I think it's time to pour the 14w - 40 Amsoil engine oil in when the new pan goes on. The engine will get dyno time and about 100mi before the next change. I know there's a lot of ideas about break in theory but this is the path I'm taking. My main goal is to keep contaminants to a minimum. So my off time I really wanted to get the mold going again for my cubby. I have the whole mold roughed out so I can do vacuum bagging. I gave up on the compression mold idea due to the height on the back side. Lots of hand sanding in my near future. Lastly, I needed a simple win... so I installed my parachute handle.