Mr. G. Brettin's Slow Motion Leg Hump

gbrettin

With great success I also have set backs. I'll lead off with that.

In true form how I have been doing things... I stripped more threads. I REALLY hate aluminum and steel threads now. I put 45 deg ends on the water line and I tried cheating it by not removing the air shroud. It put me at a weird angle and the Fragola threads cut the bung. The top of the pump was also threaded in first which caused the line to be tight. I know what caused it. Ill avoid (maybe) that in the future.

The bung will be chopped off on the radiator and re welded. New bungs (yes multiple) are on their way. I informed the welder and he's way more cool than I am about it. I wanted to punch a hole through the radiator.

Now onto the success. The cross over line for the notched oil pan was a success. This is seriously the win I needed yesterday. Infact, it's such a big deal it almost made the stripped bung less painful... almost. When I started this build there were no rear sump oil pan options. The notched pan was done to give clearance on to what we thought common bolt clearances would be. Worst case scenario, the pan would be fabbed more if the cross over didnt fit. Thankfully I found a thread on FB where the LSx Z/G community had the same issue with 350z. 20 dollars in parts later from their suggestions: 1' 4an brake line and 2 banjo bolts... IT WORKED!

What a weird mix of win vs fail. I'm not going to dwell on the bad. Sh1t happens.

Ill need to disassemble the front of my car coming up for this weekend because the hotside and cold side are going in. Hotside first (because the front will be tore down)..

It's also time to pump the old fuel out as well. There's a funny story (not funny to me) that a shop hand at Auto Dynamix "helped" me with.... I'll save that story when I pump out the tank and show you pictures. Let's just say I about murdered someone...

Side note. Has anyone gone through all the pictures on the OneDrive? How was the interface if you did?

Last note. I am EXTREEMLY pleased with the flow of hoses now. The simplistic line is great. Also a PITA to get it to that point. Less is more and the dance of hose looks beautiful to me.

Edit- Posting the YouTube video of the pan so you can see how much effort has gone into it to make it work.

gbrettin

Getting to the shop through the week was a bust. I got my 2nd covid shot and that oretty much gave be covid light and I was sick for a couple days.

Saturday was the main day I needed to be there. Met up with Jeff so that we could wrap up the Intake, that happened!. We were going to put BOV but shipping took a while and in true Murphy fashion they showed up at my house after I got back from the shop.

Exhaust flanges are a wrap. vbands are on! there's 1/32 between the flange and the alternator but should double to 1/16 when tightened down. SUPER tight but it works. Now for some bitter sweet up turbo up pipe news. I've opted to go with fender dump exhaust for now due to space and will not be running the Fast Intentions Exhaust. This decision means that additional space is now available and no core support (which was there when I made the up pipes) has yielded space as well. I found two mandrel 45's in the shop and then we tested . Passenger side will need one pie at the exhaust flange while the driver side needs nothing. The clean path will reduce a TON of turbulence which means clean boost. There's also less welds so less chances of breaking from heating and cooling. Exhaust tubing will be far away from my tires now, which means I can change the OE steering knuckles out to voodoo or some other billet brand in the future. Most importantly, I can run wide tires with out worrying about hitting the exhaust.

It's lame to put time/money into something and change... but i've come to accept that it simply needs to happen to achieve better results. Knowledge/Skill has a lot to do with this as well, I simply know more now and the final layout now known too.

Not a lot of pictures because we were getting after it.

After the pipes are completed, I will get them to the coater for Cerakote. Then I will send to a different company for another thermal wrap.

gbrettin

Looks like I have 1/32 in-between the edge of the vband and the alt. Ill need to grind the back corner a bit and then put in a metal heat shield. I'm not going to be down replacing a 400 alternator every year.

All the bolts are in on the transmission now. I just need to find bolts for the flexplate... or get new ones... Anyway...

The BOV placement is going to be on the inside. There's not a lot of options really. They are going to be either slightly pulled back hidden or our where you can see them.

Good news with the Lokar oil dipstick. I can adjust the cable on it. 100% useable.

So yeah, not much in the way of movement. Next steps are pulling electrical and fuel. I didn't feel like doing either of those things last night.

gbrettin

Marked and drilled the holes last night. Looks like I'm committed now! It will get welded Saturday.

Next up. Fuel lines...

Not even sure what to think about this part. The tank needs to be drained. I have new lines and SOME fittings. I need to buy more, but wont until I see the whole run. I'll start thinking about A2W lines and transmission cooler mounting at the same time.

-Edit

There was a lot of anxiety cutting the holes. A whole lot of time gone into it. THAT is why this part of the process has been spaced out. It's easier to think about it for a while and circle back. No need to rush to punch a hole.

gbrettin

Bolted down my Lokar oil stick and started looking at fuel lines. I also started stressing about oil pressure for the turbos and where to tie in. Turns out my ridiculous oil filter has a port built in for that already. I called clearview filters and ordered part "169". I looked online but couldn't find the same part, I figured it would be safe just to get it directly from clearview.

Another night of pondering and looking at stuff mostly.

Last picture is a white LS swapped 370z in the shop for work. Wild to see another LS Z in the community. It's getting a whipple charger added to the 6.2l gen4. That thing is going to RIP!

gbrettin

Swirl pot has a port for the steam vent now. Blow off valves welded on. Drivers side up pipe re-done to use space more efficiently. Don't need to worry about the tire hitting the up pipe now.

gbrettin

Hooked up the steam vent and coolant catch. Swapped the coolant catch fitting to a brass straight barb fitting instead of using the push lock that came with it. When I went to Auto Zone to get the hose I got the good ol' "Year, Make and Model" even though I told them I needed to see their bulk hose. They were pretty insistent so I gave them the year make model. They went cross eyed and got the manager quick.

I forgot to test the whole setup to see how intake fit under the bumper after the finish welding. Everything fits! I brought one OE fender to the shop to see what the gigantic vent looks like. It's gigantic and it makes my OE wheels look like garbage. The turbo sits nicely in the bumper but it looks like I will need to run a Turbo Guard until I can fabricate air boxes with filters in the nose.

I took some measurements for the pressure and drain side of the turbos. I'm torn on making a oil catch and then pump the oil into the pan or to just plumb direct to the Turbowerx. ... I'm leaning towards plumbing directly to the TurboWerx. Less is more at this point.

At this point I wanted the car done to drive to Zdayz (again). But you know... build problems, skill and finances really can put a damper on that. Summer tires were purchased for the Juke so I can enjoy a few days at Fontana, NC and then cut over to Zdayz later in the week.

SWAPS ARE CHEAP and EASY...

gbrettin

Looks like Ye Ol' Claped Out has the same issue as I do. 3:24 in he goes over having an oil collector. Mr. Logan has a similar setup as I do.

gbrettin

Ran the oil pressure lines and almost had it perfect. I ordered two 12" lines, one with two straight ends and the other with one straight/90. Two straight/90 lines would have been perfect. It's amazing what a difference hose ends make on cable direction. Thankfully the cost is pretty reasonable for 12" line so I ordered another one. The pressure side will be nice and tidy.

With the topic of oil at hand... I needed a mount location for my Turbowerx pump. My AC took a turn for the worst last year... so I salvaged the bracket and took it to hack town. I'm going to attempt to use the AC bracket with the Turbowerx and mount it to my engine. I had to stop last night because the bolts I had were too long and I wasn't happy with random shop bolts for the Turbowerx.

gbrettin

Went to the hardware store and then got the bright idea to counter sink the mounting bolts. That allowed me to mount the pump up a bit higher and to have more surface area on the pump to be on the bracket. I'm going to need to pick up a fender washer because the rubber isolator is pulling in a bit. There's a collar on the inside that I thought would prevent it... but I guess not.

The mount is nice and low so I can keep the CG down low. The pump will pull from an oil collector (yet to be made) directly in front of the pump. The pump will then put oil back into the pan's -16 line. Hind site, I wish that was -8 but the best I can do is reduce to -10.

gbrettin

I was hung up last night on using huge square aluminum stock I picked up for an oil collector. After chatting with a buddy, we landed on using round stock. -10 bungs will be welded to both ends and the center will have a -10 which points downward. The entire collector is about 2' long with the hole directly in the middle.

After the length of the oil collector was figured out I could cut my oil drains. Looks like I bought enough -10 hose to wrap up the collector to the scavenger. Not sure I will have enough from scavenger to pan. We'll see.

I'm going to put an inline oil filter to the scavenger pump. Well, because I don't trust the oil coming out of the turbo and then going through an expensive pump and then going into my expensive engine. I probably should also hook a gauge post pump so I can see flow or if the pump stops working. Hmmm.

Turbowerx link:
http://www.turbowerx.com/page8/page9/page9.html

Ghostvette

Just make sure there is a slight downhill to the pickup point.

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2015 Magma Red 6MT Sport Tech/2012 Fairlady MB 6MT Base (RIP 08032018)https://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/370Z/Coupe/

gbrettin

I was thinking about putting a slight bend on the aluminum. But, the scavenger pump will produce a vacuum in the pipe so it should be good no matter what.

Scavenger pump failure will screw me no matter what.

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Orestp

Hi - did you just connect the SPAL fan to the OEM fan control module?

Do you know if the SPAL fan can just be connected to the OEM fan control module?

__________________
GTM Twin Supercharger / GTM Large Capacity Oil Pan / GTM Valve Body Upgrade / Setrab 34 row oil cooler <- Deleted, Replaced with Laminova water to oil oil cooler / MotorDyne ART pipes / Cusco RS LSD / Tuned by Specialty Z / 15mm Ichiba spacers front & rear

gbrettin

Been on vacation (still am). I haven't hooked the fan up but it will be hooked into my MS3 stand alone.

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