Mr. G. Brettin's Slow Motion Leg Hump

ZontheRocks

That one was good for a hearty chuckle.

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'16 Pearl White Sport | Stillen Gen. 3 | Motordyne ART | Motordyne Shockwave | ZSpeed | Powertrix | EVO-R | Aeroworkz | Nismo | Z1 | EcuTek | Tuned by Seb @ SpecialtyZ

cv129

Im in a Ryobi group on facebook, the love for that color is real

On a serious note, i am digging the loud color in small doses theme, showing restraint while standing out.

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Setrab | RE-71 | SPL | JRZ | Nismo | ARK | Whiteline | RacingBrake | CJM Oil Pan | Ti shield

gbrettin

Thanks cv129! Appreciate the feed back. That was 100% what I was going for. Having an idea and trying to translate that sometimes can go horrible wrong. I'm glad the color didn't get out of hand.

Another post with pictures. If it feels like I'm posting pictures everyday... that's about how often I am at the shop putting in the work. I'm trying to do what I can when I can. I figure, something is better than nothing.

I put the lower air box on a couple days ago. It's two bolts that go into the frame. Very simple. Yesterday, I brought back the radiator from my house. The bottom of the radiator was drilled for a -16 line. That was keeps the path of the hose simple. To keep the aluminum shavings to a minimum, I tapped my shop vac really close to the hole I drilled. That worked beautiful. 99% of all the shavings were sucked up.

I think something should be said about the simplicity of the radiator mounting. There's literally 4 bolts holding it down, 2 in the top crash bar and 2 at the bottom, with a bolt. Easy Easy just the way I planned it. Not that I'm trying to take the radiator out all the time... but ease of maintenance will be a good thing. I know I said it before but I actually got to experience the ease of putting it together instead of being mid fabrication.

gbrettin

I was on the fence about posting this... but it appears I must pull my engine one more time. The thrust bearing appears to be cocked up and not allowing the crank to spin easily. One step was missed when putting in the bearings: The main bolts needed to be snugged a little on main cap 3 (location of the thrust bearing) and then I needed to seat the bearing by tapping the crank back and forth. After that, I needed to do the same on 2,4 and then 1,5.

The only good news about this is that I can leave a lot of the engine intact. Heck, I think I can even leave the intake on (I hope so anyway.) The engine builder will be with me this next time because I'm 100% going to burn my car down if I need to pull the engine again.

On a different note, my Meziere fitting came in for the water pump. All of the water pump stuff is ultra clean compared to where I first started.

If you're thinking about making a crack about me pulling the engine again. Consider this. I was at the shop by myself for hours last night pulling the engine while dwelling on how I have to go in reverse again. I've taken time off of work so I can work with the engine builder today to make sure that this is the last time ( hopefully... but I'll do what ever is necessary.) Needless to say, I am a bit raw at this point.

ZontheRocks

I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but those connectors look a TAD TOO SMALL.

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'16 Pearl White Sport | Stillen Gen. 3 | Motordyne ART | Motordyne Shockwave | ZSpeed | Powertrix | EVO-R | Aeroworkz | Nismo | Z1 | EcuTek | Tuned by Seb @ SpecialtyZ

gbrettin

So not to be a Debbie Downer and leave everyone on a downer note from yesterday. I was able to get the engine apart and together very easily. I was going to drop the engine in last night but I decided to spend some time with the wife instead.

My pushrods finally came in. The shop likes to place large performance orders so I was waiting on a bunch of people to get their orders in. Now I can drop in the push rods and TQ them down to spec with the engine out!

IG of the mains sat in:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CNBAZAan..._web_copy_link

gbrettin

Looks like I lumped a few pictures in with a different day above. Probably a good thing. When I turned the engine over one of the lifters slid up. Push rods were put into the engine, last component, and all of them went in but one. The plenum and head had to come off so that I could seat the lifter back in. After that, the push rods were added in.

So... that was fun...

I also twisted one machine head off on the shaft mount rocker. I didn't even take a picture because I was so pissed off. I was completing the TQ specs on the bolts. 50in/lbs is not 50ft/lbs ... Yes I know the difference. I glanced at a sideways picture of the TQ specifications and only saw 50. I was already tired and irritated that the plenum and head was removed, then I started to rush. I even made the comment (in my head) "Gesh, that's a fck ton of TQ on a machine screw" ... Yeah, that's because it is.

I talked to my BTR rep about my sob story and they are sending me a new hardened machine bolt, along with MLS exhaust gaskets I paid for. They sent the machine bolt for free.

SO...... Either that bolt is coming out or I am going to run it as is. I'm NOT going to drill that out. The bolt that twisted in half was in a spot where it will have little to no effect.

This build has been completely transparent. I hope that is all the proof you need. Also, I can't stand stuff that goes sideways like that. I knew there was something wrong and I pushed forward.


GYAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAA

Rusty

Looks like that guy Murphy has been around your car. Hate that motherfcker. I still get visits from him every once in a while. Wish someone would do a double tap/single on him.

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浪人 - 殺し屋
"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

Ghostvette

I do remember seeing a little black and white POS about 1' tall running around that shop... answered to the name of 'Spike'....

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2015 Magma Red 6MT Sport Tech/2012 Fairlady MB 6MT Base (RIP 08032018)https://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/370Z/Coupe/

JARblue

Blood makes excellent lube

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gbrettin

Looks like I'm back on track again. The machine screw only went into the shaft mount rocker and it snapped off with a little nub that I could grab with a pair of needle nose pliers. New machine screw should be here today.

After I averted that disaster I decided I needed a change of pace. I added some wax to my calipers specifically designed to keep brake dust down. I did a few coats through the night and it was super easy. Just my speed.

Z1 two piece rotors have been in my Juke for a week so I figured I should take them out and get them on the car. The hats of the rotors were powder coated because they were looking rough. I will say this, the powder coating changed the bore size for the bolts just a tiny amount. A rubber mallet persuaded the bolts into their home. I used a dot of red loctite on all the bolts and TQ'ed them down to 9ft/lbs, the directions called for inch lbs so I just did a conversion. easy easy.

With all that said... My engine should be going back in the car shortly. No other build items are needed on it. I won't say that the engine will not come out again but... This MIGHT be the last time it's out for a while.

I talked to my buddy who is a fabricator/welder and he has agreed to help me next week with all the final welds for the turbo system. That alone should significantly speed up the finish work for the boost system. With that finished, I can move over to electrical/wiring. That's where I'm going to lean on Nick/Dave, owners of Auto Dynamix.

The Carbotec pad is an AX6. The pad fits my driving style because it has CRAZY high initial TQ. Personally, I like resting my foot on the brake pedal and the car responds to that. I used them before and they make an unbelievable amount of brake dust. The brake coolers actually blow the dust from the wheel down the side of the car. Also, I was able to lock the brakes up on the highway going 90mph. You can guess what I saw out in the distance sitting in the middle of the median. The initial bite is no joke.

gbrettin

One last thought. You might be wondering why I haven't touched my rear brakes.

In the future I plan on swapping them out to TBM brakes for the rears only. They are incredible strong and lightweight.

https://www.tbmbrakes.com/product/mi...-factory-hubs/

Start at 4.47

Rusty

Hmmmmmm wax job.

__________________

浪人 - 殺し屋
"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

Z is 4 ZEBRA!

Since the rotor hats are powder coated, is there concern with them sticking to the wheels? I would think that under the heat of braking that the powder coat would gel and harden against the wheels once cooled off.

gbrettin

I thought about it and honestly I'm not sure. Good thing I'm going to start off with my OE wheels.