Originally Posted by Rusty From rabbit hole to black hole. It doesn't take much to make the jump to light speed and into the black hole abyss! Sent from my
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02-26-2021, 02:02 PM | #676 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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It doesn't take much to make the jump to light speed and into the black hole abyss!
Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk
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02-26-2021, 02:14 PM | #677 (permalink) |
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The OEM FUCA is a weak point, so I wouldn't consider a heavier arm a con necessarily. More like an inevitability unless you want to spend the money to develop a titanium arm
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03-01-2021, 09:41 AM | #680 (permalink) |
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Well, this weekend I thought I was going to be fixing the stripped holes in the head. NOPE. I noticed some debris inside the engine from the constant construction. So.... That redirected the efforts to a complete tear down of the engine. For real. I have way too much time and money into this thing to blow it up on the first dyno pull. I mean, there's always a chance... but no reason to increase the chances.
With that said, I broke the entire engine down. I decided to make some lemonade out of the lemons and paint the block. Taping the block off was actually a bit more time consuming than I would have anticipated. Not sure on the amount of time it took... but it was longer than expected. Of course, it could have felt longer because I spent the whole day breaking the engine down and labeling all the bolts. What ever. When it came time to paint the engine. I used an etching epoxy primer (dark green coat). After that, I did a light coat of green followed on by highlighter yellow. The result was.... Green apple. 100% not what I wanted. The aim was to get the color to resemble the powder coated parts. So... at the end of a 10hr day (no breaks) and a dripping block (the paint was runny). I threw in the towel. Next day. I examine the block... yup, Green Apple. I use a razor blade to cut off some of the runs and assess the situation. I decided to hit the block with ceramic white and then follow on with highlighter yellow. I did that process three times. I must say... I think I got really close to where it needed to be. later in the day, the powder coater hit me up with messages showing me the calipers, brackets and turbo housings. They came out SICK! Final thought... I didn't really want to show the debris in the engine to everyone. BUT! I maintain I have an open and honest build here. It's very important to be transparent about these issues. I hate having flaws as much as anyone else. Oh yeah, I found my shrader valve that I lost when I was messing with my Accusump. It was in a socket. -- Edit -- The last two pictures of the block were from today at 5:30am. I woke up early and decided to hit the block with VHT Satin Clear. I may get back out to the shop and start assembly tonight!. Last edited by gbrettin; 03-01-2021 at 10:54 AM. |
03-01-2021, 11:12 AM | #681 (permalink) |
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I like that green apple.
Good thing you took the block apart.
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03-01-2021, 11:43 AM | #682 (permalink) |
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The Green Apple isn't bad. It wouldn't match anything on the car.
Yeah, I was bummed about breaking the engine down; but, it shouldn't take long to get it back together because I have all the parts this time around. |
03-02-2021, 10:02 AM | #683 (permalink) |
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Picked up my turbos, coil brackets, calipers and 2 piece rotor hats. All coating came out perfect. I ran out of steam last night to work on my car but I did fill in the Turbonetics text with black sharpie. I used a narrow sharpie that didn't fill everything that well. I then remembered I had a medium industrial sharpie (chemical and heat resistant) That filled in everything perfectly. I have some automotive clear that I will brush into the lettering later. Between the pictures of the block and the turbos... I'd say color matching went pretty well for my hack painting skills! lol
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03-03-2021, 12:29 PM | #684 (permalink) |
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Got excited and brought the turbos down to the shop just so I can see how the color worked on the car. I am very pleased with the results. The block had the tape removed and I started working over the deck with a razor to make sure it was perfectly clean.
The block and powder coat color appear to be close... good enough anyway. |
03-05-2021, 09:55 AM | #685 (permalink) |
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I love glancing at the tags. "Jar loves mangled extremities" and " I wiped my dirty ew today" about knocked me out of my seat. lol
A couple nights ago I was at the shop and started assembly of the engine. Having a bit of knowledge was very helpful, more importantly all the bolts and parts! It was such a PITA the first time around. Start. stop. start. stop. start... I probably would have made the post about the assembly yesterday but I was a bit salty about breaking a piston ring. How did that happen? Well. The piston slipped out of the ring compressor right when I gave the top a bonk. Part of the piston popped out and pinched. These rings only like to do one thing, expand outward. Sooo.... that really pissed me off when that happened. I think there is another ring at the shop still from the last time I broke a ring. (they come as a pack). Other than that the assembly has been straight forward. Yesterday, still a bit salty about the ring, I received my Titanium Works bleeder valves. I don't think I mentioned that purchase here because I was absolutely embarrassed about the purchase. There's no good reason to have them on the car other than "I like them". 95% of the stuff I put on the car has to have a specific functional purpose. I guess that 5% is the street flare. I decided too late in the game that I want a "akebono" vinyl sticker. I put it on after the clear. Well... It's a 7 dollar vinyl. I guess I can sacrifice it every few years. These pictures are way better than the social media pictures I take. Less compression. |
03-05-2021, 10:07 AM | #686 (permalink) |
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Oooooooo! Looking fresh!
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03-07-2021, 10:36 AM | #687 (permalink) |
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I now have an engine assembled (ish). I still need my pushrods and my head drilled and tapped for steel inserts where the intake will go. I'll additionally put in studs so that I don't have to worry about alignment issues and stripping the aluminum head again. There's nothing too dramatic about the rebuild because I had all the screws and parts. Actually, that alone was an amazing feeling. Even better, I knew 99% of the process.
Really good news about the ring! I found the pack of rings at the shop from the last time I broke a ring. Also, the bottom oil ring was fairly easy to put on. More good news... The 10% underdrive gave enough clearance for the belt. Also, I was able to re-use my old belt. Perhaps I was gifted with a bit of luck because my bad luck with my calipers hit. I was obsessed with getting the akebono logo cleared into the caliper. I did a light scuff (very light) and then cleared over it with some high temp gloss. I tossed the caliper into the stove for 20min @ 200deg. The result of that was catastrophic to the "high temp vinyl". The vinyl separated from the glue and curled. An attempt was made to press down the vinyl and re-clear. Things went bad to worse. I ended up picking the vinyl out of the clear and then the caliper now has a blurry ghost of "akebono". At this point... I'm going to wet sand the clear and then not worry about even having the vinyl. Moral of the story... Have the vinyl baked into the clear. But... I question if that would even survive. Now... if anyone reading this happens to see my car in person, look for the Easter Egg of a F* - up. For what it was worth. The situation might have been fine if the clear was allowed to dry slowly. Oh well. I plan on murdering the rotors with heat. so there's no guarantee the vinyl wouldn't have been liquid under the clear. lol |
03-08-2021, 07:47 AM | #688 (permalink) |
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Ah lawrd. Here I come again, with another update.
I started working on caliper reassembly last night. Things were going pretty smooth until I found out I was shipped a 1 Front Caliper seal kit and 1 Rear Caliper seal kit. So.... I couldn't complete the rebuild. I suppose that's ok, because I was making a caliper reassembly video. Now I can review the footage to make sure it's not a complete dumpster fire. It's going to end up in the DIY section; of which, I will add the torque specs Rusty. I suppose I wont count off Ugga Duggas for everyone. Rusty - You asked if the seal kit comes with the caliper O-ring that goes in-between the halves. It does. The seal kit is complete, unless they send the wrong one. |
03-08-2021, 09:20 AM | #689 (permalink) |
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Quick question, what are you using to hold tension on the belt?
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