Mr. G. Brettin's Slow Motion Leg Hump

gbrettin

Need? Nah. The shop has done this a bunch of times. It's a slow process for me due to experience. The shop may pick one up in the future. but.... I think the one they want is like 30k-50k? That's out of my ball park anyway.

gbrettin

Please ask if you have any questions. I figure this can be a good learning thread for what you might want to do AND for stuff not to do. I had only fundamentals before I started my swap and jumped into the deep end because I wanted to get my hands dirty with everything.

Also, thanks for following the thread. I'm going to be completely honest, it's a real pain in the d1ck to get photos while working on something. Your comment validates why all these pictures are useful. Also... I think it's good to remember the burden of the processes.

Bottom line... I'm glad people enjoy it and take the time to look.

JARblue

I absolutely hate stopping to take photos during a project. I try to make myself do it and then take terrible photos at poor junction points in the project

The documentation in this thread is unbelievable. You have gone way above and beyond sharing your unique project with us. Thank you and kudos

__________________

gbrettin

Thanks buddy! I appreciate it. Getting beat up is just part of the process.

gbrettin

well, looks like the whole thing got tacked at the welding shop. Looks like they used baby tacks and nailed down the flat spots. Hopefully this works out awesome! And if not... I'm not afraid to cut it up (don't be surprised if you see new pictures of me doing that... lol)

gbrettin

Fantastic news guys! The tacked hotside fit PERFECT. I dropped it back off to be welded along with the driver's side to be tacked up.

-- Edit

I also held the two hotsides side by side and they look nearly identical. I was shocked!

gbrettin

IG@gbrettin
Driver's side Snake-zilla pies were cut much nicer (new blade on band saw). Give this a test fit and then back to the welding shop. ������

--------------------

I was informed on IG that I "hold my pipe well"...

gbrettin

Back to the welding shop she goes!

gbrettin

Pro tip (from a buddy of mine): Use Denatured Alcohol to remove all the pen and tape adhesive from piping you are going to weld. The welding shop doing the welds say they spray down the metal prior to cleaning... but I went over this one anyway. I guess it will be extra clean for them.

gbrettin

IG@gbrettin:
First time in a long time I could bolt a part on with out being a headache. Nice off the shelf part from @motionraceworks. Perfect fit and a compact foot print. Plenty of room exhaust with out even having to clock the starter. #motionraceworks #ls370z

Full exhaust, @fastintentions , will be ran with my turbo system. Off the turbo it will be 3" into boost actuated dumps supplied by @loudvalves. The exhaust will neck down into 2.5" to the Fast Intentions exhaust system. The mid pipe will be modified slightly and @blacksheepindustriesinc vbands will replace all bolted flanges. The 10 year old exhaust will be polished out at the end of the build AND I will refresh the carbonfiber cans with a special almumized 3k twill. Something to be said about the exhaust specifically, this is the first generation of Fast Intentions exhaust, thoroughly used. I highly recommend them because of the high quality and they have great service.

-------------------------

Additional thoughts. Notice the car is on a hoist. My buddy set me up with a permanent hoist location until the car is complete. They plan on using that specific spot for long term builds. With it on the hoist I can wrap up the fuel system, cooling/coolers, transmission button up and exhaust system. I'm grateful to have the ability to raise and lower my car as needed, life got SO MUCH easier!

I'm really looking forward to wrapping the carbon fiber on the F.I. exhaust down the road. I think the bolts will be switched out with titanium hardware, 12 or bolts. Here's the link to the Aluminized carbonfiber, that's the same stuff I will do my pin on hood (if you're paying attention to my notes). The aluminum weave will catch the light giving it that little extra.. At Least I hope so... The price definitely has that little extra...

https://compositeenvisions.com/silve...m-toray-t-300/

Starter Install






F.I. Exhause mounted











Planned exhaust path

gbrettin

IG@gbrettin
Installed @z1motorsports subframe collars and @royaltyperformancellc diff brace. Cleaned up the subframe enough until I send it off to powder coating some other year. One of the bolts broke off on my car, because why not... it was hot hot hot! Inside the shop today too. Also, I took a bunch of video of doing both installs just to try it out. I'll edit it and throw it on YouTube, maybe. It's mostly me swearing at the car and bad video angles. ��. #z1motorsports #royaltyperformance #370z #ls370z

-------------------------

I put in comments inn between the photos on this one.

Black Sheep Industries unboxing




New exhaust hanger


Z1 Subframe install and Royalty Performance diff brace Install
Removed Exhaust


Installed RP brace incorrect the first go. Use a 17mm spanner to hold the backside of the nut to the hole so the brace can be bolted it. I was a dummy and struggled for a long while, don't do that. It's a 5-10min job once the car is on the hoist. I have a lengthy video of what not to do.




The surface rust, which is minimal for MI cars, was sending me into a panic attack. I ended up wire brushing the frame connectors and painting. I'm going to have all the components powder coated. I have a question for you guys (and I will end up researching shortly). What options are there for replacements? I’m not worried about the subframe specifically. Does SPL have replacement parts for all the pieces shown on the ground? And if you are wondering if the car has ever seen salt, the answer is yes. I was forced to drive the car ONE winter season. I had to and it is what it is. The damage on this car was from ONE year and it pisses me off. I guess if you see people bucking up about driving their Z cars all year you can show them these pictures.


Nissan did not use grade 8 fasteners. Look at the crazy build up on the one bolt. One bolt sheerd right off due to loss of strength. I had to goto the hardware store to find replacements, which is always a PITA in the middle of a project. The replacement bolts are M10 1.25 thread pitch if anyone has the same issue. Get grade 8 bolts if possible. I ended up with grade 7. I sourced a lug nut from the bolt bin and sanded down the bolt that was sticking out. The lug was welded to the bolt, a lot of weld. Didn't want to take any chances of it breaking again. The heat from the weld also helped free up the bolt to get it out. All threads were chased and lubed up.





Painted items




I used a rubber mallet to bang in the collars on the bottom side, there's only two of them. The top collars drop in. It's an easy install when you’re not tweaking about other parts of your car.

madwi

I didnt know there was a diff brace that didnt have to get all hacked up for the FI exhaust. Thanks!

redondoaveb

I don't think that's the case with a finned cover.

__________________
Fast Intentions "Stage Seb" twin turbo #098- Specialty Z/Tial-Xonarotor/CJM/Ecutek/HKS/KW/SPL/Hotchkis/Rohana/Toyo
700+whp

madwi

Oh, I see. The clearance is with finned covers, bell and the FI pipes.

redondoaveb

It is with the bell raceworks

__________________
Fast Intentions "Stage Seb" twin turbo #098- Specialty Z/Tial-Xonarotor/CJM/Ecutek/HKS/KW/SPL/Hotchkis/Rohana/Toyo
700+whp