Mr. G. Brettin's Slow Motion Leg Hump

gbrettin · 12-19-2019, 09:56 PM

That's a reason why I went with carbon kevlar.

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Rusty · 12-19-2019, 11:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gbrettin

That's a reason why I went with carbon kevlar.

Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

To make them thick enough for the stress. You would be spacing the bearings out too far. Then you will end up with alignment problems between the rotor and caliper. Pushing the rotor to the outside. The rotor would no longer be centered in the caliper.

Zezus · 12-20-2019, 11:02 AM

What fenders are those?
They look slick!

gbrettin · 12-20-2019, 06:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

To make them thick enough for the stress. You would be spacing the bearings out too far. Then you will end up with alignment problems between the rotor and caliper. Pushing the rotor to the outside. The rotor would no longer be centered in the caliper.

I'll be sure to give it a good one over; but, the plate mounts completely flat and shouldn't be zero stress. Again, I'll look it over real good before anything happens. Thanks for the heads up.

gbrettin · 12-20-2019, 06:41 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zezus

What fenders are those?
They look slick!

I'm assuming you mean the fender vents. Those are Finite element.

Zezus · 12-20-2019, 06:44 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gbrettin

I'm assuming you mean the fender vents. Those are Finite element.

Oh wow, with the way they are molded onto that car I assumed they were whole fenders.

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gbrettin · 12-20-2019, 07:06 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Zezus

Oh wow, with the way they are molded onto that car I assumed they were whole fenders.

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OHHH, those are Porsche RS vents (green fender in picture). I'm going to try moulding the Finite Element vents into the fenders and attempt to make it closer to that.

gbrettin · 12-21-2019, 03:53 PM

Starting welding on your car is completely reasonable right? Looks like I have a little grinding to do. I know what I'm getting for Christmas!

All joking aside. I'm pretty happy with it, being my first time. Everything is going to get cleaned up and leveled out with a grinder by me first. Then seam filler is going back in so it wont look like worms all over the engine bay.

The MIG welder had too much amperage and the feed was too fast. Both were turned down and things went a bit smoother.

All the pictures are of the good and bad, you get to see them all.

Rusty · 12-21-2019, 04:13 PM

Practice on thinner sheet metal than what you will be welding on first before doing the actual welding to adjust your settings. Depending on your eyes. I found that somethings using a #8~#9 lens instead of a #10 or darker will help you see the seams better, but you may pay the price later with welding flash.

gbrettin · 12-28-2019, 08:18 PM

Ground down the wormy MIG welds, tapped off the seams and epoxy filled them smooth. If you're not a welder, better be a good grinder.

The taping shown below was an unbelievable PITA. Who am I kidding? The whole thing took me all day.

I couldn't get any in between shots of the epoxy because that stuff only has an 8min working time and my hands were covered in epoxy boogers.

Rusty · 12-28-2019, 08:39 PM

If you hate grinding. You will become a good welder.

Did you use a sanding disc to smooth out your weld beads? What's quicker, is using a 4" x 1/8" grinding disc on your die grinder for roughing down. Then use the sanding disc for final.

gbrettin · 12-28-2019, 09:09 PM

I used the sanding disc in the picture (50grit). It chewed through the bulbus part of the weld pretty quick. I then changed up to a 36grit and I wish I led off with that! It also took everything down flat. Don't think I'd use a die grinder due to that.

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Rusty · 12-29-2019, 12:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gbrettin

I used the sanding disc in the picture (50grit). It chewed through the bulbus part of the weld pretty quick. I then changed up to a 36grit and I wish I led off with that! It also took everything down flat. Don't think I'd use a die grinder due to that.

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Ahhhhh......you are using an angle head die grinder in the one pic. Die grinders come in a couple of different types. Straight, 45 degree, and 90 degree heads. Short shaft and long shaft. 12,000 rpms all the way to 80,000 rpms.

36 grit is pretty course. 50 grit is finer. I normally start with a 36 grit, and finish with a 80 grit. If I want it really smooth. I then move to a 120 grit.

gbrettin · 12-29-2019, 02:40 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Rusty

Ahhhhh......you are using an angle head die grinder in the one pic. Die grinders come in a couple of different types. Straight, 45 degree, and 90 degree heads. Short shaft and long shaft. 12,000 rpms all the way to 80,000 rpms.

36 grit is pretty course. 50 grit is finer. I normally start with a 36 grit, and finish with a 80 grit. If I want it really smooth. I then move to a 120 grit.

Rusty, as always, thanks for the input!

I can't imagine stitch welding the ENTIRE car. lol. FWIW, both of my buddies at the shop told me not to do it. But... I was already elbow deep doing the rust repair and removing the false firewall. For someone considering doing some stitch welding, I really hope the stumble onto this thread.

Rusty · 12-29-2019, 02:55 PM

Stitch welding a whole car. You better have it in a jig that you can turn. It's no fun when you have to twist yourself in knots trying to get into position to weld.

12-21-2019, 03:53 PM	#173 (permalink)
gbrettin A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Portage, MI Posts: 2,280 Drives: Tricycle Rep Power: 589151	Starting welding on your car is completely reasonable right? Looks like I have a little grinding to do. I know what I'm getting for Christmas! All joking aside. I'm pretty happy with it, being my first time. Everything is going to get cleaned up and leveled out with a grinder by me first. Then seam filler is going back in so it wont look like worms all over the engine bay. The MIG welder had too much amperage and the feed was too fast. Both were turned down and things went a bit smoother. All the pictures are of the good and bad, you get to see them all. Rusty likes this. Last edited by gbrettin; 12-21-2019 at 04:13 PM.

12-21-2019, 04:13 PM	#174 (permalink)
Rusty Ronin Samurai - Assassin Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 68 Posts: 35,180 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684437	Practice on thinner sheet metal than what you will be welding on first before doing the actual welding to adjust your settings. Depending on your eyes. I found that somethings using a #8~#9 lens instead of a #10 or darker will help you see the seams better, but you may pay the price later with welding flash. gbrettin and Hotrodz like this. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

12-28-2019, 08:18 PM	#175 (permalink)
gbrettin A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Portage, MI Posts: 2,280 Drives: Tricycle Rep Power: 589151	Ground down the wormy MIG welds, tapped off the seams and epoxy filled them smooth. If you're not a welder, better be a good grinder. The taping shown below was an unbelievable PITA. Who am I kidding? The whole thing took me all day. I couldn't get any in between shots of the epoxy because that stuff only has an 8min working time and my hands were covered in epoxy boogers. Rusty, Hotrodz and madwi like this.

12-28-2019, 08:39 PM	#176 (permalink)
Rusty Ronin Samurai - Assassin Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 68 Posts: 35,180 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684437	If you hate grinding. You will become a good welder. Did you use a sanding disc to smooth out your weld beads? What's quicker, is using a 4" x 1/8" grinding disc on your die grinder for roughing down. Then use the sanding disc for final. gbrettin likes this. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

12-28-2019, 09:09 PM	#177 (permalink)
gbrettin A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Portage, MI Posts: 2,280 Drives: Tricycle Rep Power: 589151	I used the sanding disc in the picture (50grit). It chewed through the bulbus part of the weld pretty quick. I then changed up to a 36grit and I wish I led off with that! It also took everything down flat. Don't think I'd use a die grinder due to that. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk Hotrodz likes this.

12-19-2019, 09:56 PM	#166 (permalink)
gbrettin A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Portage, MI Posts: 2,280 Drives: Tricycle Rep Power: 589151	That's a reason why I went with carbon kevlar. Sent from my SM-G975U using Tapatalk

12-20-2019, 11:02 AM	#168 (permalink)
Zezus Enthusiast Member Join Date: Dec 2018 Location: Cincinnati Posts: 354 Drives: 2016 370z sport 6spd Rep Power: 50338	What fenders are those? They look slick!

12-29-2019, 02:55 PM	#180 (permalink)
Rusty Ronin Samurai - Assassin Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 68 Posts: 35,180 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684437	Stitch welding a whole car. You better have it in a jig that you can turn. It's no fun when you have to twist yourself in knots trying to get into position to weld. gbrettin and Hotrodz like this. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

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