Mr. G. Brettin's Slow Motion Leg Hump

gbrettin

Well... I didn't know a steering sensor delete was an available option so I picked up one of them.
https://store.partsshopmax.com/shop/...Z33SSPSDF.html

I've been busy the last couple nights so I haven't completed the rear diff. BUT, the circlip beast pliers work. Even with that massive unit I could feel the resistance.

More to come.

gbrettin

I was able to get the new stub axels in. The stub axels and cover were put into the freezer for 24hrs. Lindsey, my lucky wife, found both items in the freezer and was so happy she took pictures for me. Turns out I didn't need the cover froze, it needed heat. I figured everything would contract but I thought wrong. After that course correction the stub axel went in super easy. What was a pain was that the bearings and shims were falling out when I tried putting the stub axels in the grove. Also, from the factory someone dinged up the grooves so it was harder than necessary. I used a file to clean the grooves up.

The quick change was given 75w-90 AMS Oil "Severe Gear". Gear oil stinks so bad... which is awesome when I overflowed the fill with 3qts and it ran all over the rubber may on my lift cart. I read on the internet it takes 4 and that it takes 15min for the oil to flow into different sections. So... I figured do 3 and let it flow and then take it easy on the 4th. Nope. 3.2 is all it takes.

I think that the diff is going to generate a lot of heat so I'm going to look into a diff cooler. Winters says that excess oil will generate a lot of heat so getting the oil right will be a big deal.

Loading the gears into the back was ridiculously easy. I suppose that's why Quick Changes are so expensive. Take note of the bearings in the rear cover and near the sub axels. Those were upgraded options that allows for the diff to spin easier. The diff spins much easier than OEM due to this.

Lastly, one of my carbon seats came in. They are so much lighter than the Juke seats. I've got to say... the Juke seats are still top notch. Weight and the seats being fixed back are the only reasons I got rid of the Juke seats. I'm super happy that I purchased the carbon seats in the end. It carries my theme useful excess... lol.

gbrettin

I just replaced a bunch of photos due to a snafu... Not going into those specifics. But I had to re-add photos from page 65 on. If you don't see a lot of photos with the associated text, that's why.

gbrettin

These pictures are a depiction of my mental state trying to install the steering sensor plug. Turns out I was turning the sensor the WRONG way. I figured that out after buying a pack of 3mm wrenches (rounded the edge) and then carved out a large area using my Metabo.

I wanted to block off the sensor because my fbody ps pump has a mechanical bypass. Don't need the extra wiring and I want to try keeping everything tidy where I can, if possible. Parts Shop Max sensor plug was used:
https://store.partsshopmax.com/shop/...Z33SSPSDF.html

SG4247

Where’d you get what is the snap ring tool?

I need one!

SG

__________________
NA on E85 - 12.402 @ 112 mph
100 shot E85 - 11.589 @ 117 mph
JWT C2 cams rev Base Circle & Titan Valves

gbrettin

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SQ42ASM

gbrettin

Picked up the Sikky rear subframe that has been in storage since early May. I paid for a few extras on the subframe which includes MA Motorsports anti squat brackets, Sikky Rear Subframe Bushings, Skid plate. I purchased DSS axels but I don't know if I went through Sikky for that. The Winters Quick Change is a 8500 series but I think it's listed as "Pro 1500 Spool Diff".

If you went through the options... on Sikky you can see that it gets pricy quick. I clearly didn't get this stuff over night. It was certainly a slow grind. I also have a box of SPL parts and Import Drag Solution rear coil over shocks that all need to get put on the subframe. I'll be quite honest... I'm not sure how all these parts go on exactly. Kind of a common theme with my build. Which is odd when people hit me up on IG or FB asking for build advice... I tend to point people asking to more knowledgeable people.

I had a conversation with Bullseye Turbo about getting different exhaust housings for my car, specifically vbands. WOW, the casts are expensive... like 500 per. Reason why I checked into those is because I'm considering moving my turbos inboard directly infront of the exhaust manifolds. I'm thinking that this move will reduce the exhaust charge tube and clean up the charge pipes. I'd likely want to face the turbo inducers toward the middle of the engine so that I can capture air. What about heat from the radiator? is likely going through your head... or it should be. The large CSF radiator will likely be removed and two small king radiators placed where the turbos were previously. Radiator placement is still up in the air to be honest.

One thing that made me laugh about my build is the realization that my car has more American made parts than a lot of domestic vehicles.

TMI update? I dunno.

On a side note... I'm very much considering buying a scanner and 3D printer to make some smaller bespoke parts for my build. I feel like that's a missing component to making components for my car.

gbrettin

Dug into the Sikky Subframe and Winters. No instructions came with it but it was fairly easy to figure out what was happening. The solid subframe slugs need to be loaded so I need to double check if there's a specific direction they need to face up or down.

Stopped by someone I know that has a 3d scanner and he did a quick scan of my cubby mount. It was pretty awesome. The cubby was dusted with baby powder mixture and then scanned. I also brought my Nismo v1 plastic and that was scanned too. I need a new under plastic and so does he, so it's a win win. We're talking about releasing the .STL file to the wild so people can print their own at some point and have a donation bucket out if people feel like donating.

Rusty

The sub frame bushing go in from the bottom. Here's my thread on the install.

SPL Rear Sub-Frame Bushings

__________________

浪人 - 殺し屋
"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

gbrettin

Perfect! Thanks man. I appreciate that a lot!

gbrettin

Rear subframe bushings are not my favorite. I've had a hell of a time getting a single bushing in. I've done: Lube, dry ice, tap w/ hammer, metal plate kits, bolts, nuts, clamps and rods.

sounds like weird porn.

What I've found to work best for my situation is dry ice freezing the bushing, Teflon grease, grade 8 bolt/nut, and a harbor freight Front Wheel Drive Bearing Remover/Installer. The bolt is too large so I ordered a grade 8 - 10 bolt 3/4 8" long. I'm still waiting on the bolt but I can show you grade 5 vs a Milwaukee Fuel 18v

I didn't read Rusty's entire thread... shame on me. I started to install the bushing with an arbor press upside down. Thank baby jesus that didn't work.

Last thing to point out... I'm going to lube all the contact surfaces of the bolt/washers and I'm going to grind out the barrel so that there's no powder coat inside. The tolerances are REALLY tight.

On Black Friday I ordered Motion Raceworks Billet valve covers... because the Holley Sniper covers sucked. I had a bit of luck because the car gods decided it was time for a bit of luck for me. I won the Motion Raceworks giveaway! See video and you'll get to hear my goofy *** on the Shake and Bake live podcast. Lyle Barnett sent me a text telling me to get on the show.

Zerkster

Dont tell my work that I spent the past 2 hours following this whole build thread...

Miss the old build thread days.

I could stare at those engine bay photos all day long, I love the custom fabrication work.

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See me take parts off and put parts on: http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...t-revival.html

gbrettin

that's awesome. This thread has had some serious ups and downs. I really don't hold back on the fukc-ups....although, I wish I didn't fukc up so much.

gbrettin

The quick and dirty steps of doing the install. It's actually easy if you do these steps.

1. Sand the barrel out to metal with an 80 grit flapper.
2. Teflon grease the bore.
3. Freeze the bushings with dry ice.
4. Use a 3/4-10 grade 8 bolt 8" (if it has all thread). Or two bolts, 6" and 8", from farm and fleet. 4 washers and two nuts.
5. Maddox Front Wheel drive bearing install/remover from Harbor Freight. This provides the clamping surface.

The powder coating was thick. Not surprised why it was so hard previously. The grade 8 bolt, dry ice, grease, metal plates to clamp and sanding was the key. I would have paid Sikky 150 to press it because I spent more than that.

gbrettin

Looks like I'm pumping the brakes on my build for a few months. Don't expect much of anything to get done because I have a college class coming up in a few weeks on 1/15. Which also means I pulled my registration for Sick Week since everything is moving at a snails pace.

The last components to my exterior showed up from NextLevel Performance. The hood looks amazing. The bumper has a lot going on but I think my car could use a little spice back there.

I spoke with Baker Engineering and my engine should be completed by mid February. That's fine. Like I said, I'm busy.