Mr. G. Brettin's Slow Motion Leg Hump

gbrettin

Did some brain storming at Madwi's/Scott's place on July 3rd and saw that the manual trim ring was much shorter than the auto ring. Madwi is converting his interior over to black so he was able to spare me his bezel. Thanks dude! After getting very aggressive hacking the plastic out of the underside (probably more than needed). The AT blank needs to be glued into the empty hole... unless I want to add something from billet automotive button in there... hmmm.
https://billetautomotivebuttons.com/

I was able to get the manual shift ring in. WOW! it looks amazing and allows for perfect function! The red lever also sits above the bezel too! Only thing I will need to do is put some leather in.... Later of course (over winter so I can have some leather sewn up. I'll worry about the blank hole later too.

XRP drain lines and line for ethanol sensor to filter came in. The Fitting couldnt spin in-between the turbo and up pipe. Nothing that a bench grinder couldn't solve. If you can't grind a 100 line.... you're not ready for the mod game. lol

gbrettin

Worked on getting my exhaust roughed in. I'll cut the bumper where I want them to exit next and then see what I need to do to get the pipes out the holes. Tires don't hit at full crank and have a decent air gap given the space to work with. Side note, the ends on the pipe are not clean because they will get cut when I figure out what angle the exhaust needs to go out the bumper. Clocking of the turbos made it difficult to line out but I think I nailed it, especially doing it myself (walking back and looking at both side and making tape lines).

Not bad for an evening of work.... well... most of the day.

A functional bandsaw would be really nice at the shop...

sirnixalot

You're consistent as all hell with the tig on those pie cuts, I am jealous.

__________________
2010 Sport - LS3 swap loading
2012 Frontier - BTWTuning VK56DE swap

gbrettin

I learned a lesson about stainless steel... sh1t is tough and buy prefab.

I bought four of these:
Tigtonic 3" Fully Welded Pie Cuts Lobster Tail 90 Degree Stainless for Turbo Exhaust Intake
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NTHRWQ4

and a few stacks of these:
Tigtonic 3" Stainless Pie Cuts Kit 90 Degree Bend for Custom Exhaust 6 Pieces
https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Deg.../dp/B07NV1BHNH

Just making my life easier at this point.

Rusty

When welding stainless tubing or pipe. You have to purge the inside of the tubing or pipe to get a good weld. Otherwise the weld will sugar on the inside.

__________________

浪人 - 殺し屋
"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

gbrettin

I'm having Dave do the tig and he back purges. My skills end at mig (for now).

gbrettin

Rear brakes were looking wore out and I assumed that the pads were done too. When I took everything apart I was surprised to see as much pad as I did on the EBC yellows because they had MANY Tail of the Dragon runs on them and spirited driving braking.

I thought that the rear spacers had a broken stud, but apparently that was only on the front hub. Rear spacing has increased from 20mm to 25mm. Eh, what ever. not the end of the world getting new spacers on. I did notice that the threads were not great on the H&R spacers so it's not a waste.

Rotors are cheap run of the mill which will be mated to Hawk track pads. However, these brakes are not the end game for the car because they will be switched out to TBM ultra light rotors and billet calipers. The TBM rotor will allow for 15" tires for drag racing and be a huge upgrade over the non sport conversion everyone does. I'm not doing that route right now because brackets will need to be made and I'm not doing any more special projects until this thing is done.

Where are we at on the "sliding done scale"?
1. Mount the gas pedal.
- The pedal was welded up by Dave and is ready to go. Holes have been drilled and just needs to have a pin put through the cable to the pedal. Easier said than done because that's way under the dash.
2. Properly bleed the brakes.
- I did a gravity bleed because I was alone. NOT GOOD ENOUGH.
3. Terminate and clean for final wiring.
- ... ok "final" is kind of loose here. It's going to be final in the sense of mechanically working, not beautiful. I can tidy everything up at my house on my own time after it is working.
4. Cut bumper for fender exit and align exhaust out.
- I have had multiple people tell me that the exhaust will scoop air in its current form. Yes, I know this... It's not done. The alignment part will extend the exhaust out and I will use a pie to direct the exhaust towards the back of the car.
5. TIG weld exhaust w/ bung.
- I'm obviously not doing the TIG, Dave can knock that out.
6. Dyno tune car.
- There's a dyno at the shop and we have tuning know how. Not a huge hurdle.
7. Melt the rear tires to the cords with burn out and get new tires.
- The tires are old at this point. I can't think of a better way to complete the project phase.

SO, that's the short list folks. There's always something that pops up but that list is fairly locked in.

Also want to say thanks to Leingod for sending me two OEM lugs. I apparently lost a couple somewhere down the line.

gbrettin

No real updates other than having a few parts come in that I specifically want to show... mainly because I think it's hilarious.... Clearly I don't take the build stuff too seriously.

Exhaust trim ring came in, so now I can get the holes in the bumper and exactly line them out to where they need to go. Paid 50bucks per trim ring due to the engraving. Worth it.

DE_50 / Andrew sent me his used SPL FUCA. I've been asking for them about 2 years... Well, not that I was worried about running a while ago. They came in at the right time. Andrew, if you see this, thanks buddy!

Lastly... I signed up for LS Fest again. I'll actually make it out there this year. I signed up for true street drag racing, because why not have the option to rip down the track? I believe it also got entered as "under construction". I'm not going to be fully buttoned up with everything, so I figured it to be a safe bet. True street is an index class. See the rules.pdf
https://www.lsfest.com/bowling-green...reen/dragrace/
https://www.lsfest.com/wp-content/up...East-Ruels.pdf

gbrettin

I'm officially drowning in too much stuff with work and homelife, much of it I will not go into on a public forum. I've officially hired Auto Dynamix to work on my wiring of my car so that I can make headway while I deal with work and homelife urgent matters. I'm probably not going to be posting anything until after Aug 15th, same for IG.

Yay.... adulting...

Rusty

Take care of home business first. That what counts.

__________________

浪人 - 殺し屋
"The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only"
http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

Mr&Mrs

I love my occasional visits and awesome people still doing awesome builds. The Z community rules!

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Project Z <--Click - Check out the link too many mods to list!

gbrettin

I stopped up to the shop yesterday for a few and the car was off the hoist getting wiring worked out. A couple wires were re routed here and there, connectors added, wires extended, trigger wires going to the ECU, and a few other items that I'm sure I forgot. All the wiring is getting labeled and documented. You know... professional stuff. I think for the most part all the hard cable monkey work was completed by me. All the heavy cable was pulled to the right area, ECU was pulled through and plugged in, a lot of OE wiring was thinned out, and I had a lot of extended connectors.

*edit* - The car has sooooooo much dirt on it, you can not see through the rear window. It's nuts. For the record, I was pretty insane about keeping my car washed and waxed prior. Madwi offered to help me do a quick detail on my car... I will take him up on that offer. lol

While I was at the shop, Dave mentioned to me that it would be a good time to get the MAC valves ordered and wired. The MAC valves are used with CO2 to control the waste gates, well... the ECU will tell how much dome pressure to add specifically which is why he wants to wire it. SO, I immediately purchased the Motion Raceworks dual MAC valve setup:
https://www.motionraceworks.com/prod...20374401843318

If you really want to know what the MAC valve setup is all about then check out this video. I don't really see people using it on the forums or FB. My quick explanation above (adding dome pressure) is basically like using an infinite spring rate inside your waste gates. My springs inside my waste gates are 6lb springs so minimally my car will make 6ish lbs of boost (maybe some boost creep?). THEN if I have CO2 working on my car I can pin it shut and run 35-40lbs (maybe not 40lbs because that would be like 2,000hp for 3-4 seconds until the rods fly to heaven)

gbrettin

I was given a teaser pic and told that my car is almost done. Teaser pic or not, I know exactly where the ECU and TCM is mounted, it's right under the passenger side dash below the HVAC. The mounting looks super clean and the wires don't appear to be going crazy.

Dave (shop owner) thinks that I will be on the road soon. Overall, not much of an update other than my excitement bleeding through.

*edit* I'm on the hunt for a cubby compartment while my other cubby is stuck in a mold. I have feelers out on the Internet and one dude on Reddit said he would send me the cubby for about 50 bucks (pretty much my top dollar). All the other cubby units on ebay have been 80-200 dollars, which I'm sure they are just flying off the shelves because EVERYONE needs them. A little salty about the ebay thing because I offered 55 dollars to them and snubbed me. Might have been a message from me telling them to E.A.D. if they think they are going to get 75 (their counter offer). ohhhh well.

gbrettin

I stopped up to the shop during lunch and broke out my GoPro. There has been some serious improvements. My Rife temp/pressure sensor was removed, apparently the Motion Raceworks flex fuel sensor can do that, and replaced with Low Dollar Motorsports pressure sensor that was wired into my MS3 wiring harness (pretty dang trick). CJM Fuel pumps have been wired and the extra pump will be triggered by the ECU during boost. The wiring for the fuel stuff has been ran back through the OEM cover. Transmission has been wired for trans brake and neutral safety. Lo Jack (a variant) wired into the car... I'm not telling anyone where that is for obvious reasons. There's a ton of stuff that has been routed and cleaned up. Anyway, 1min video of a walk around.

gbrettin

Methods of mayhem in the world of ADD: