Mr. G. Brettin's Slow Motion Leg Hump

JARblue

If you were going to cut corners on this build you should have started doing it a long time ago

__________________

gbrettin

I did more than this last night... but I didn't take pictures. lol Shocker right? I dropped the gas tank back down because two -6 lines will not go up and over the gas tank. bummer. The lines were re routed under and thankfully I had plenty of line.

The only picture I took was me painting under the gas tank. Was this needed? No. Will anyone see it. No. Did it make me happy. yeah. I've decided to paint under the car VHT Roll Cage black where ever I can. I'm not going to drop the sub frame for the because eventually the whole subframe will be taken out for a MA Motorsports Winters Quick Change subframe. I'll paint it then.

So what Pictures did you miss? not a lot. I added zip ties to the transmission lines all the way back. After that I decided to put a threaded insert (10-24) in with plastic cable hold downs I found at the hardware store. Only one went in because Nick/Dave (shop owners) stole the battery for the drill so they could Sawzall a rough cut for a huge tub in on their twin turbo Yukon. Apparently they want long travel suspension and crazy large sand paddles on it. I'll grab some pictures later.

In other news, I reached out to Jason Gale because I'm a big fan of his work with the pillar pods. I asked him if he could do something with the Tinker Electronics display incorporating that into the cubby. He sent me a photo of the EXACT design I was looking for. I think Canada should celebrate a day in his honour (used that spelling just for him).

gbrettin

Tinker Electronics came in and the unit looks pretty good. I'm not in love with the 3D printed case but i've seen these units in action and they more than make up for it. Heck, maybe I'll CF wrap the case later. Later... yes later.

Took a measurement for the drive shaft, a whopping 41" 1/4. I happened to find someone on IG that makes custom drive shafts with the pinon plate machined so that I can bolt it right up. I noticed that the drive shaft joint hits my custom transmission bracket so it's about to get even more custom.

gbrettin

Mounted my Lokar dipstick to a factory bolt. For some reason my cable wouldn't go back in after I gave a quick test of pulling it out. It sounded like it was banging on the transmission... That's because it was. Lokar forgot to put a PTFE O ring inside the tube so I had to take out the dipstick from the transmission and then send the lower part back to them. At least the transmission did not have fluid.

I put the front bumper back on to get an idea how many pies I will need for that. Looks like a few like a like 4 sets of 90's to make it snake out (2 per side) and a couple 45 deg mandrel bends. I'm going to try avoiding snake zilla v2.

A 3.5" custom made drive shaft has been ordered for the car today. It comes with the pinon flange so I should be able to bolt it right up. That is... after I modify the transmission mount.


Left Side:

Right Side:

gbrettin

Officially sent the Tinker Electronics off to Jason Gale. Can't wait to see what he makes. I have him creative freedom to do what ever he wants.

Took down the transmission lines and painted the underside VHT Roll Cage black. Eventually it will be all black.

The transmission mount was removed and cut up. I used 1" aluminum box on the sides and added another going side to side. Should be plenty strong and now there's enough room for the 3.5" aluminum and the yolk. I'm getting the drive shaft from Drivetrain Industries if anyone is wondering:
https://www.facebook.com/Drivetrain-...5676657558693/

I've got to say, for a 2009... the car is clean AF.

Tinker Electronics off to Mr. Gale:

gbrettin

Pulled the MS3 wiring harness today. I need to lay out where the connectors go yet but this was plenty good for me today. It was a b1tch getting the wires through the grommet. I ended up putting electrical tape on the connectors and adding a touch of assembly lube to help it along. It looked like that grommet was birthing for a moment.

The grommet actually looks pretty good. BUT! I have a Maven Performance Dual Bulkhead milspec connector I will change everything out later.

So I guess my car officially has a wiring harness now?

gbrettin

3 months later... my CSF A2W radiator came in. The little thing is pretty damn dope. It came with mounting brackets, spal fan and fittings. The mount location is perfect right next to the transmission cooler. It's nice having some space to mount stuff.

The MS3 wiring harness was laid into the location where they need to be. The wiring harness is incredible clean, I'm shocked. I honestly don't think I will change the main loom over to a milspec connector, I'll save that for add ons later.

gbrettin

Took a small break Fri-Sun and went to LS Fest. I had originally wanted my Z in the event and paid for my car to be inside the event... So I drove my Juke inside the event and parked inside the main event area.

I had a few take away ideas from checking out cars. It is completely apparent that I am a lunatic building my car. 95% of the people just slap their swapped car together if it's a swap. 4% are 100 thousand dollar big budget shop builds and the last 1% are lunatics. These stats are 100% made up from my perspective, specifically pertaining to swaps. There were a lot of ultra clean OE cars with tasteful mods; but, they were all domestics. Most domestics don't get me that excited.

So now I am back to working on my stuff again, the endless struggle (might be a good car name). I plugged some of the harness. Injector plugs were gravy except for the back two plugs because they were flipped towards the inside. The plenum runners and the valve cover were so close! I honestly dodged a bullet on that one because they can't be turned toward the valve cover because the billet vent would be in the way which would mean I would have to get a different valve cover.

I tried plugging in the crank sensor but that is behind the starter. I'll just bite the bullet and drop the starter. Might as well clock the starter further away from the engine while I'm at it. That should help with cooling. I was going to run my old Fast Intentions exhaust with vbands. Plumbing was too complex and the up pipes were remade which removed available room. That's the sacrifice. My Instagram has a really cool video of the car idling with a small rev. I tagged Tony Meyerson but I'm not too sure he likes the idea of his exhaust being modified. That's just a suspicion, maybe he didn't have time to see it.

Soooooooooooooooo...... In true Greg fashion... I had an ADD moment and abruptly stopped messing with the wiring harness. I'll just write it off as time management because I wanted the rear mount heat exchanger mounted for the A2W setup. The brackets were rounded out and painted, no pictures of that. CSF provided bolts and clips for the fan to be secured. They sucked. Zip ties came in clutch for that.

Sound clip of LS3 and Fast Intentions Exhaust:
https://www.instagram.com/p/CTlAgIbHcwf/?utm_source=ig_web_copy_link




Pusher Fan Wiring

Crank sensor hiding behind the starter.

Need to pull the wiring loom 2" further. Starter plug doesn't reach.

Cam sensor plug isn't the same.


Yes, this is crooked. I had to work with the room that was there, trunk metal not flat, grommet wiring and the transcooler. Main thing... It's there

gbrettin

ZontheRocks

That's a mean bitch!

__________________
'16 Pearl White Sport | Stillen Gen. 3 | Motordyne ART | Motordyne Shockwave | ZSpeed | Powertrix | EVO-R | Aeroworkz | Nismo | Z1 | EcuTek | Tuned by Seb @ SpecialtyZ

gbrettin

Owner wants the shop to put a whipple charger on it and a few other mods. It's going to be 1000hp, immediately and bolt on. I took a ride in that car and that LS3 NA was stout.

gbrettin

I was out in the garage earlier in the week and did the smallest task(s). The starter was removed, clocked, plugged in the cam sensor and then put the starter back on. Simply removing the two bolts was the move vs fighting my hand on the back side of the starter.

The starter clocked out away from the block should help with heat a bit more. I originally had it sucked closer to the engine because of the full exhaust system, but as you saw that ended up on the white 370z.

I'm also working on identifying a good mount location for my A2W pump. The cubby where the charcoal filter was, appears to be the best location so far. I have a handful of -16 fittings that I can use so it looks like I'm going to ride that Fragola train one more time... I want the Fragola hose because of the heat and abrasion resistance going to the back of the car. I have some brass fittings w/ plumbing clear hose just for the front of the car. I figured it would be nice to see what was happening for air bubbles and it was cheaper.

The first picture of the pump shows it sitting on a package. if you look at the backside you will notice a black mount. The mount has a rubber isolator built in. Davies Craig recommends NOT hard mounting the unit because the electronics will fault out due to vibrations over time.

Spoke with Lokar yesterday and they are going to send me a new lower unit. They didn't know why the crimp came out the first time. *shrug* I dunno either. I'm happy to get the new unit. Only downside with it is that I need to measure inside cable unit to the new lower piece because the upper and lower parts are matted pairs. I guess you will see more on that in the future.

Two -6 45 PTFE line ends got lost in transit so I'm still waiting on finishing my transmission cooler lines. I bought two new ends because I went beast mode trying to get them off the old line. I got them off but I disfigured the fittings. I now see why PTFE can hold 10,000lbs of max pressure.

Custom drive shaft should be done soon. Maybe. Who knows. Doesn't matter too much anyway. lol . I hope it comes with new ARP bolts.

All-in-all, not a lot of movement but something is better than nothing. Not saying I'm going to do this... but I completely understand why people sell their builds when they get to the 90% mark. It's legitimately taxing.

gbrettin

Small progress. -6 45deg ends came in for my trans cooler. Put them on, which were relatively easy. Transmission cooler only needs electrical, but all electrical will be done at once which is coming to a head.

Water pump line was a tad too long so I had to chop it down. Of course I chopped it too short so I had to do it again. I feel like I'm pretty quick at making lines now. lol The reason I had to do that is because the line looped into the way of the A2W line.

Do yourself a favor if you find yourself about to cut a bunch of hose. Get some bolt cutters. It makes clean cuts. When you cut with a wheel it makes rubber shavings so it's clean that way too.

Final thought. I'm going to mount the A2W pump inside the rear right handside where the charcoal box was. being in that cubby the pump will have some additional protection. The lines will also flow nicely there too.

gbrettin

From IG@gbrettin:
Davies Craig water pump mounted for the air to water Intercooler. I was able to use a factory hole with a threaded insert and a factory threaded mount.

-----------

The Davies Craig is also at the lowest point on the system which will help keep air out of the pump. What's not shown in the picture very well is the rubber isolator that goes around the pump. The isolator keeps the pump failing prematurely due to the electronics breaking if hard mounted.

I also ran across my cam sensor dongle and pulled the wiring loom through a couple more inches. Both items are plugged in now. Clean and simple. I just need to look at the starter's wiring now.

Ghostvette

I need that tool to do threaded inserts. Who makes it?

__________________
2015 Magma Red 6MT Sport Tech/2012 Fairlady MB 6MT Base (RIP 08032018)https://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/370Z/Coupe/