Originally Posted by Rusty You got to do something about your alignment. You got too much camber and toe on the left side.
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12-21-2020, 09:37 AM | #573 (permalink) |
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All the fittings were put into the Accusump, but not with out complication. I lost the schrader valve so I had to order a new one. I originally called Canton Racing to order a "new air pick" because I had lost it. Honest to god I had no idea what the valve was called. He basically told me to order it from Amazon. lol. A replacement shrader valve and a 45deg elbow for the pressure gauge was ordered.
(products arrive) Saturday I hit the shop to complete final assembly of the Accsump but hit the aforementioned bumps. The 45deg elbow is for 1/2" and I needed 3/8. Easy enough fix, the hardware store is right down the road. Turns out they don't sell 45deg brass elbows so I had to settle on a straight coupler and a 90deg. That turned out to be a great option anyway because it kept it nice and tight. Working with the T fitting... I really dislike red/blue AN fittings for some reason. Ordering a new T fitting because of the color only wasn't a good enough reason to purchase a new one; not to mention there would be delays getting the plumbing completed. Easiest fix I could think of was spray paint. Auto Dynamix always has a TON of mostly used spray cans in the back storage room. Black caliper paint was rounded up from the sea of cans. I figured if it could work on calipers, it would be fine for the T fitting. A short -10 line was ran from the oil cooler to the Accusump. At this point, there are only two lines left for the oil run. That will need to be completed after the engine goes back in and I order 3 more fittings. for the return/sending lines. Due to the location of the Accusump, I needed to have that completed prior to doing the cold side. GREAT SUCCESS. I'm so ready to get rocking on wrapping up the cold and hot side; so ready I picked up a bandsaw to get going on pie cuts because I'm sick of waiting for the gigantic bandsaw to be fixed (that's been a process I'm not going to get into). The old Harbor Freight bandsaw put in a TON of work. I thought that a new one would be a good enough option to get rolling. WRONG. What a piece of sh1t. Brand new and it can't cut a 9deg cut. Even worse, the 9deg jig from lpsfab will not fit. That whole debacle killed my Sunday. What a bummer. I just wanted to get some forward momentum. The shop owner, Dave, said he is going to get the big bandsaw going. There are a few options other than that to get pies done: 1. Have a shop cut the aluminum or 2. order a bunch of pies from Black Sheep Industries. I'd prefer to cut my own at this point. |
12-21-2020, 09:56 AM | #574 (permalink) |
Ronin Samurai - Assassin
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You're a pro at making hoses.
HF strikes again.
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12-30-2020, 07:54 AM | #576 (permalink) |
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I found a short-term solution for making pies. An engineer buddy of mine said he uses a miter saw that has a carbide wood cutting blade to make pies. Sure enough, the miter box made life easy; however, it can not be used for stainless (I need to wrap up the hot side too).
The 12’ pipe was cut into 4 manageable straights so that I could easily deal with the pipe. I then changed the blade to 9deg, made a few test cuts, marked the size I wanted to cut all the pies and then cut 6’ of pies down. All the pies needed to be deburred and leveled out after using the miter box. Let me say this… The cuts were pretty dang good so the clean up wasn’t bad. Cleaning up 6’ of pie was mind numbing. I just put my headphones in and listened to music. Building out the pie path was relatively straight forward after visualizing the path. Making the pies follow that imaginary path is slightly different. Let me rewind a bit. If you notice lines on the tube, I used that to cut the pies. A cut would be made and then the tube would need to be flipped over 180deg. The line going down the pipe would let me know where to flip. Fast forward back to laying out the (imaginary) path. I would use the same lines left on the pies to know how far I was clocking the pies and to line up a smooth radius. An “X” pipe is needed for my boost setup for one major reason (and I think I’ve said this before, but it will make more sense at this point). The Holley twin intake has no common plenum. Ports 2,4,6,8 and 1,3,5,7 are completely independent of each other which means I need a common point somewhere in the system to balance boost pressure. I cannot have half of my engine receiving extra boost because that makes for some bendy rods. With that said, the driver’s side boost tube was mocked up and then I mocked up the passenger side to mirror. The passenger side was done up 50% until the driver’s side could be tacked up. (This is the end of one night and I went home) Next day I was at this shop waiting on my buddy to tack the boost tube. During in the wait, I decided to see if I can tack up the new boost tube. The first attempt… I didn’t have the settings correct at all. The TIG was set to DC (WRONG) and the gas was not on (MORE WRONG). Come on man… I was excited and nervous. After remembering my YouTube academics and channeling Rusty’s Zen, I was able to do some tacks on scrap. I called my buddy Dave in (owner of Auto Dynamix) to do the actual tacks. Let’s be honest, I don’t want to re do a section of the pie snake. Best let the pro do it. Dave also required me to hold the pie snake together so it was a 2 person job. Putting heat into the aluminum makes the adhesive on the tape let go. One last thing.. If you guys actually read this far… The pictures are in order. The last few pictures shows a complete passenger side and then it is tore apart again. That is by design. I took a few pies and then rebuilt the path again. The driver’s side was removed because the boost tubes cross paths so that I can make an “X”. I’m hoping that the passenger side will give the illusion it is independent. I’ve wrote enough for one morning. If you have any questions let me know. I’d be happy to make up answers and bull$hit on the fly. lol Edit -- I apologized to Dave in advanced for the time investment to weld my cold side. It's like 34 linear feet of welding. We both agreed it will look amazing when finished though. Last edited by gbrettin; 12-30-2020 at 08:07 AM. |
12-30-2020, 09:12 AM | #577 (permalink) |
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Wow....
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01-01-2021, 08:33 AM | #578 (permalink) |
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Happy New Year everyone!
Worked on getting the merge to actually merge. Coping pretty much sucked. I had to take pies on and off 50 times. When it was off I would massage some of the metal out with an aluminum sanding disk. That was the passenger side large section. I coped one pie for 4 hours on New Years Eve. Well, it wasn't one pie. It was like 5. It gave me night terrors. The first few pictures are of me making a transition between 3" to 2.5" for the turbo. An exhaust flare was used to make an aggressive transition. When I start posting the turbo to intercooler pictures it will make a whole lot more sense why that quick transition is needed. My vision must be starting to make sense to people. I posted the intake on FB and it was generally well received. The biggest hang up was trying to explain the necessity of balancing out the boost in the X pipe vs running a straight shot from the intercooler. Trust me, I would have loved to do that. WAY less pies and WAY WAY less welding. |
01-01-2021, 08:51 AM | #580 (permalink) |
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That's a can of worms. That will give you nightmares. The next question. Once all welded up. Will you be able to install it and remove it without to much hassle?
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01-01-2021, 09:42 AM | #582 (permalink) | |
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Quote:
I will say this.... After stepping away and then seeing it with a fresh set of eyes the next day. IT LOOKS AMAZING. |
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01-01-2021, 11:26 AM | #584 (permalink) |
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Haha, talk about death from 10,000 pie cuts!!!
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01-01-2021, 07:51 PM | #585 (permalink) |
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50% of the the turbo to IC completed. 3" boost clamps were going to be used but the down turn and transition would have ran into the headlight. The 3" to 2.5 reducer I made yesterday will be welded directly to the IC. I need to purchase a 2.5" boost clamp for the turbo OR use a coupler.
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