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Originally Posted by JLarson Will not shift into gear. I believe I've improperly bled the clutch, so tonight that's my project. If you have pedal pressure, maybe double check the

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Old 06-19-2018, 12:47 PM   #76 (permalink)
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Will not shift into gear. I believe I've improperly bled the clutch, so tonight that's my project.
If you have pedal pressure, maybe double check the shifter lock-out plate is properly positioned?
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Old 06-19-2018, 12:51 PM   #77 (permalink)
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If you have pedal pressure, maybe double check the shifter lock-out plate is properly positioned?
Good thoughts, I did check the lock-out plate and it appears correctly positioned. I lost pedal pressure immediately when I started the car, so I'm thinking there's a bubble. Also when I did the bleed previously, I didn't have anyone to operate the pedal while I bled it, so I'm guessing when I closed the bleed valve with the pedal in the "up" position, I probably had sucked air back inside. Does that sound like a fairly reasonable assumption?
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Old 06-19-2018, 12:53 PM   #78 (permalink)
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Yup. Did you pump the pedal yourself and then close it? Definitely get air in the system that way. Gravity bleed the last bit and you should be good to go.
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Old 06-19-2018, 01:36 PM   #79 (permalink)
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Yup. Did you pump the pedal yourself and then close it? Definitely get air in the system that way. Gravity bleed the last bit and you should be good to go.
I did, I was flying solo by that time. Never having gone through this process before, I didn't quite realize what I was in for
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Old 06-19-2018, 01:40 PM   #80 (permalink)
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Yeah, you got air in the system. Get your wife inside the car. Have her pump the pedal 3 times and hold down on the last pump. you open up the bleeder until no fluid comes out. Close the bleeder and have your wife repeat. Do this a couple of times until you see no bubbles. It's best to have about one foot of clear hose on the bleeder to see if any bubbles are in the fluid coming out. Keep the reservoir full the whole time you are doing this.
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Old 06-19-2018, 06:41 PM   #81 (permalink)
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Attempted repeatedly. No luck 😞 after about 4 attempts, did get the ability to shift with a lot of effort, mostly into 2, 3, and 5. Multiple repeats did not improve results further.
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Old 06-19-2018, 08:09 PM   #82 (permalink)
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Do you have the RJM clutch pedal assembly. It looks like you do. If so you have to bleed it with the eccentric in a certain position. It won't bleed right otherwise. A couple of guys have had issues on here before. Contact Zspeed, he can help you out. I think his name is Joe.
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Last edited by Spooler; 06-19-2018 at 08:13 PM.
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Old 06-19-2018, 08:27 PM   #83 (permalink)
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Do you have the RJM clutch pedal assembly. It looks like you do. If so you have to bleed it with the eccentric in a certain position. It won't bleed right otherwise. A couple of guys have had issues on here before. Contact Zspeed, he can help you out. I think his name is Joe.
Yes I do have the rjm! Thanks Spooler, that's potentially huge
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Old 06-19-2018, 09:03 PM   #84 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Spooler View Post
Do you have the RJM clutch pedal assembly. It looks like you do. If so you have to bleed it with the eccentric in a certain position. It won't bleed right otherwise. A couple of guys have had issues on here before. Contact Zspeed, he can help you out. I think his name is Joe.
Right in the RJM manual - when bleeding have to adjust AFP to 0 or the master cylinder will never quite bleed correctly. Will update if this works!
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Old 06-19-2018, 09:32 PM   #85 (permalink)
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That's what manuals are for. To read after you have issues. LOL I always bleed the MC first, then the CSC. Break loose the line at the MC while the wifey has the clutch pedal depressed (after pumping 3 times) and then tighten back up. Do it until no air escapes.
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Old 06-19-2018, 09:50 PM   #86 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Spooler View Post
That's what manuals are for. To read after you have issues. LOL I always bleed the MC first, then the CSC. Break loose the line at the MC while the wifey has the clutch pedal depressed (after pumping 3 times) and then tighten back up. Do it until no air escapes.
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Old 06-19-2018, 10:00 PM   #87 (permalink)
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I'm at about 70% function now. Bled it repeatedly, can't quite get it finished tonight. Hopefully tomorrow. I can get into all gears now, but everything past first is pretty notchy. Reverse is a crap shoot, can get into gear maybe half the time.
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Old 06-19-2018, 10:01 PM   #88 (permalink)
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I'm at about 70% function now. Bled it repeatedly, can't quite get it finished tonight. Hopefully tomorrow. I can get into all gears now, but everything past first is pretty notchy. Reverse is a crap shoot, can get into gear maybe half the time.
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Old 06-19-2018, 10:08 PM   #89 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by Spooler View Post
That's what manuals are for. To read after you have issues. LOL I always bleed the MC first, then the CSC. Break loose the line at the MC while the wifey has the clutch pedal depressed (after pumping 3 times) and then tighten back up. Do it until no air escapes.
The one in the engine bay i assume, right where it exits the mc?
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Old 06-19-2018, 10:47 PM   #90 (permalink)
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The one in the engine bay i assume, right where it exits the mc?
The one right off the MC. Yes. If this doesn't get it done let me know. The next questions will be on how you adjusted the rod from the MC where it connects to the clutch pedal. With your eccentric on Zero, you should have about 1/8in of play before you feel the pedal make contact with the pressure plate. So it should be kinda floppy in the 1/8in. If it is tight all the way at the top, it won't bleed correctly either. It will be kinda challenging since we have that stupid return spring on the clutch pedal. Not sure if you have it on the RJM pedal. I just got done feeding the horses and re-doing waters. It's 11:00pm and I am sweating, Welcome to the south Ga. heat for me.
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