Marty's road to ~450WHP

Martijn_b · 06-20-2018, 07:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079

You don't need to build a motor for a twin turbo setup. You just have to pull it for the install.

Looks like someone was foreseeing the future.

After a lot of research and changing my mind at least 100 times to come to a final conclusion, I pulled the trigger on the AAM stage 2 turbo system.

I have a good experience with EFR turbos in my surrounding and really like the design on this kit. Everything being stainless and the huge potential also appealed to me. I will install the kit myself with the help of my buddy.

Currently i dont foresee a built engine, but my mind might change on this. I will have to do some research on the options there (there probably will be different stages).

This is what my "stage 1" setup will look like. Goal: 550whp/450ftlbs on 102 octane

- AAM stg 2
- 34 row oil cooler
- Zspeed easy street clutch (450lbs)
- CJM fuel return kit
- IDx 1050 injectors
- Aeromotive 340lph pump
- Ecutek tuning

Excited to start this!

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-G950F met Tapatalk

Chuck33079 · 06-20-2018, 08:17 PM

You need more clutch. IIRC the torque rating on a clutch is at the flywheel. Your goal is above that. You may not be able to pull enough timing to keep the torque down and it would really suck to button it all up and have to immediately go back in to swap out the clutch once you've put all the turbo kit in.

Also, I assume you've lumped in a light flywheel and new hydraulics in with the clutch line item? If not, don't forget those.

Martijn_b · 06-20-2018, 08:28 PM

You might be right here about the flywheel numbers. Hmm Joe mentioned a 6puck option, might have to go that route. Waste of money here - but my own fault.

I did also upgrade with a CMAK, new master cylinder and a billit flywheel.

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Rusty · 06-20-2018, 08:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chuck33079

You need more clutch. IIRC the torque rating on a clutch is at the flywheel. Your goal is above that. You may not be able to pull enough timing to keep the torque down and it would really suck to button it all up and have to immediately go back in to swap out the clutch once you've put all the turbo kit in.

Also, I assume you've lumped in a light flywheel and new hydraulics in with the clutch line item? If not, don't forget those.

Plus a good LSD. OS Giken, Cusco, Wavetrac.

Martijn_b · 06-20-2018, 09:45 PM

Why yall always want me to spend more and more money? A simple: "way to go marty, enjoy your ride" would be nice to hear sometimes too" ;-)

Rusty · 06-20-2018, 09:50 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Martijn_b

Why yall always want me to spend more and more money? A simple: "way to go marty, enjoy your ride" would be nice to hear sometimes too" ;-)

Because you would enjoy more with all the supporting mods.

Why do it halfassed.

Chuck33079 · 06-21-2018, 07:06 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Martijn_b

Why yall always want me to spend more and more money? A simple: "way to go marty, enjoy your ride" would be nice to hear sometimes too" ;-)

Actually, I'm trying to save you money. Doing it right the first time is always cheaper than having to go back in and do it twice.

jwick · 06-21-2018, 09:55 AM

You won’t regret the clutch upgrade. I’m running the Z1 full-face disk at about your torque goal (440wtq) and I’m on the ragged edge. Z1 rates their clutch at 500 ft-lbs at the flywheel.

Martijn_b · 06-21-2018, 04:28 PM

Noticed the ";-)" at the end of my message? It was a bit of a joke. What I meant was that the emphasis on forums is sometimes a bit much on how to make things even better or more expensive - not so much on a "congrats - thats a nice upgrade". But no worries - if I want emotional attention i will turn to my 93 year old grandma :-)

Ofcourse I am going to do it right and not half-assed. I paid my part in life already on half asses builds and know it never pays off. And if I wasn't then I also wouldnt order the CJM system and run stock fuel setup with just a walbro 255 and cheaper 600cc injectors and call it a day at 95% IDC :-)

I appreciate yall feedback and suggestions - thanks!

Rusty · 06-21-2018, 07:17 PM

When you are done with it. Then you will get some praise if it turns out good. In the meantime. We'll just spend your money on things that we think you need. And tell you so.

Martijn_b · 06-22-2018, 04:18 PM

There seem to be problems with the way how AAM set up the BW wastegates.

The AAM kit makes use of Borg Warner EFR 7163 turbo's. These are internally wastegated with with a 36mm wastegate flap. BW offers three types of wastegate canisters with the following base pressures:

Low: ~6psi
Medium: ~11 psi
High: ~17 psi

Then what they did (I heard..) to make them fit due to clearance issues, is that they modified and shortened the wastegate rod. This causes the preload to be higher, which causes the base pressure to rise. Also, the boost is harder to controll and the wastegate flap to have less travel and not to open as far as it should.

Well, all of this already gives me goosebumps because it sounds like some kind of hackjob designed by idiots.

Does anyone know from a reliable source if the above story is true? Especially on stock internals this could be problematic because the boost might be harder to controll and the wastegate to crack open later than desired.

If its true I foresee two options:
1) change the stock "medium" wastegate canisters with the "low"
2) go external wastegated
3) the above is a ghost story and multiple people run medium canisters on low boost without problems..

husam2012 · 06-22-2018, 08:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Martijn_b

There seem to be problems with the way how AAM set up the BW wastegates.

The AAM kit makes use of Borg Warner EFR 7163 turbo's. These are internally wastegated with with a 36mm wastegate flap. BW offers three types of wastegate canisters with the following base pressures:

Low: ~6psi
Medium: ~11 psi
High: ~17 psi

I have also heard about that issue. I have a local friend who has the kit at reasonable boost levels and so far he has no problems. I would go with the low canister for a stock engine imo.

Martijn_b · 07-10-2018, 01:05 PM

WOOP WOOP...ITS DA SOUND OF DA POLICE...

Did a vinyl wrap on the car for an event. Later in july i will go to the Zandvoort racetrack (former 1970s F1 circuit) and take children with a life expectation of <5 more years for a spin, to give them a great day. The week after I will also do a 3 day event driving through 5 European countries with 100 sport cars.

Wanted the Z to stand out a bit more. What do yall think? Just waiting for my blue LED's :-)

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ZontheRocks · 07-10-2018, 02:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Martijn_b

WOOP WOOP...ITS DA SOUND OF DA POLICE...

Woop woop!

THAT'S THE SOUND OF THE BEAST!

Haha! Great stuff! Car looks great and it sounds like you're sharing the fun! Kudos!

Martijn_b · 07-21-2018, 11:48 AM

Put the Zspeed clutch in last week and drove trouble free for about 300 miles.

As of yesterday i get a squeaking sound from the clutch pedal. When pushing it completely down to the floor, at the last 1.5 inch of movement you can feel some resistance and hear a squeek. It doesnt feel smooth anymore.

Anything suggestions? Maybe we forgot to grease the pilot bearing?

Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-G950F met Tapatalk

06-20-2018, 08:17 PM	#32 (permalink)
Chuck33079 A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2011 Location: Houston Posts: 12,265 Drives: 2011 370ztt Rep Power: 29539	Marty's road to ~450WHP You need more clutch. IIRC the torque rating on a clutch is at the flywheel. Your goal is above that. You may not be able to pull enough timing to keep the torque down and it would really suck to button it all up and have to immediately go back in to swap out the clutch once you've put all the turbo kit in. Also, I assume you've lumped in a light flywheel and new hydraulics in with the clutch line item? If not, don't forget those. Rusty, Hotrodz, Jayhovah and 2 others like this. __________________ 2011 MB Touring-Sport-6sp-Nav/GTM TT/FI TT TDX/JTran/Kosmic/Eibach/Hotchkis/SPC/CSF/RPS/SoThatsWhereAllMyMoneyWent

06-20-2018, 08:28 PM	#33 (permalink)
Martijn_b Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jan 2018 Location: Netherlands Posts: 280 Drives: 2010 370z MB 6MT Rep Power: 3786	You might be right here about the flywheel numbers. Hmm Joe mentioned a 6puck option, might have to go that route. Waste of money here - but my own fault. I did also upgrade with a CMAK, new master cylinder and a billit flywheel. Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-G950F met Tapatalk __________________ Instagram: Boosted_Fairlady

06-20-2018, 09:45 PM	#35 (permalink)
Martijn_b Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jan 2018 Location: Netherlands Posts: 280 Drives: 2010 370z MB 6MT Rep Power: 3786	Why yall always want me to spend more and more money? A simple: "way to go marty, enjoy your ride" would be nice to hear sometimes too" ;-) Hotrodz, madwi, wideglideleon and 2 others like this. __________________ Instagram: Boosted_Fairlady

06-21-2018, 09:55 AM	#38 (permalink)
jwick A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Dec 2010 Location: Houston Posts: 14,532 Drives: '10 G37 6MT Rep Power: 2465056	You won’t regret the clutch upgrade. I’m running the Z1 full-face disk at about your torque goal (440wtq) and I’m on the ragged edge. Z1 rates their clutch at 500 ft-lbs at the flywheel. Hotrodz and Martijn_b like this. __________________ '10 G37T 6MT Graphite/Graphite - BP - G37T Build

06-21-2018, 04:28 PM	#39 (permalink)
Martijn_b Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jan 2018 Location: Netherlands Posts: 280 Drives: 2010 370z MB 6MT Rep Power: 3786	Noticed the ";-)" at the end of my message? It was a bit of a joke. What I meant was that the emphasis on forums is sometimes a bit much on how to make things even better or more expensive - not so much on a "congrats - thats a nice upgrade". But no worries - if I want emotional attention i will turn to my 93 year old grandma :-) Ofcourse I am going to do it right and not half-assed. I paid my part in life already on half asses builds and know it never pays off. And if I wasn't then I also wouldnt order the CJM system and run stock fuel setup with just a walbro 255 and cheaper 600cc injectors and call it a day at 95% IDC :-) I appreciate yall feedback and suggestions - thanks! Rusty, wideglideleon, Baronsmokes and 1 others like this. __________________ Instagram: Boosted_Fairlady Last edited by Martijn_b; 06-21-2018 at 04:39 PM.

06-21-2018, 07:17 PM	#40 (permalink)
Rusty Ronin Samurai - Assassin Join Date: Dec 2011 Location: Fayettenam,Pennsyltucky Age: 68 Posts: 35,184 Drives: 2011 Nismo GM 6M Rep Power: 2684437	When you are done with it. Then you will get some praise if it turns out good. In the meantime. We'll just spend your money on things that we think you need. And tell you so. Baronsmokes, JLarson, Martijn_b and 2 others like this. __________________ 浪人 - 殺し屋 "The Difficult Anytime, The Impossible By Appointment Only" http://www.the370z.com/members-370z-...o-journal.html

06-22-2018, 04:18 PM	#41 (permalink)
Martijn_b Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jan 2018 Location: Netherlands Posts: 280 Drives: 2010 370z MB 6MT Rep Power: 3786	There seem to be problems with the way how AAM set up the BW wastegates. The AAM kit makes use of Borg Warner EFR 7163 turbo's. These are internally wastegated with with a 36mm wastegate flap. BW offers three types of wastegate canisters with the following base pressures: Low: ~6psi Medium: ~11 psi High: ~17 psi Then what they did (I heard..) to make them fit due to clearance issues, is that they modified and shortened the wastegate rod. This causes the preload to be higher, which causes the base pressure to rise. Also, the boost is harder to controll and the wastegate flap to have less travel and not to open as far as it should. Well, all of this already gives me goosebumps because it sounds like some kind of hackjob designed by idiots. Does anyone know from a reliable source if the above story is true? Especially on stock internals this could be problematic because the boost might be harder to controll and the wastegate to crack open later than desired. If its true I foresee two options: 1) change the stock "medium" wastegate canisters with the "low" 2) go external wastegated 3) the above is a ghost story and multiple people run medium canisters on low boost without problems.. __________________ Instagram: Boosted_Fairlady Last edited by Martijn_b; 06-22-2018 at 04:53 PM.

07-10-2018, 01:05 PM	#43 (permalink)
Martijn_b Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jan 2018 Location: Netherlands Posts: 280 Drives: 2010 370z MB 6MT Rep Power: 3786	WOOP WOOP...ITS DA SOUND OF DA POLICE... Did a vinyl wrap on the car for an event. Later in july i will go to the Zandvoort racetrack (former 1970s F1 circuit) and take children with a life expectation of <5 more years for a spin, to give them a great day. The week after I will also do a 3 day event driving through 5 European countries with 100 sport cars. Wanted the Z to stand out a bit more. What do yall think? Just waiting for my blue LED's :-) Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-G950F met Tapatalk Rusty, Jayhovah, wideglideleon and 6 others like this. __________________ Instagram: Boosted_Fairlady

07-21-2018, 11:48 AM	#45 (permalink)
Martijn_b Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jan 2018 Location: Netherlands Posts: 280 Drives: 2010 370z MB 6MT Rep Power: 3786	Put the Zspeed clutch in last week and drove trouble free for about 300 miles. As of yesterday i get a squeaking sound from the clutch pedal. When pushing it completely down to the floor, at the last 1.5 inch of movement you can feel some resistance and hear a squeek. It doesnt feel smooth anymore. Anything suggestions? Maybe we forgot to grease the pilot bearing? Verstuurd vanaf mijn SM-G950F met Tapatalk Asus_ likes this. __________________ Instagram: Boosted_Fairlady

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