My 2010 Sport

sirnixalot · 06-29-2022, 09:13 PM

So I was mocking up the radiator position in relation to the engine by measuring from the engine mount holes in the subframe. The lower radiator hose is going to end up a little short to use as a fill point from the expansion tank.

I have the idea to use the heater ports on the water pump, they were going to be looped anyway so I could plumb both to the bottom of my expansion tank and use those as fill points.

Anyone see a flaw in that plan?

I stepped the thermostat outlet up to 1.75” to match the radiator hose size. I love the Vibrant bead roller.

Pulled the 3/8" nipple out of the drivers side valve cover to weld a -10AN bung in its place.

sirnixalot · 06-30-2022, 08:33 AM

After looking at the LS coolant routing diagram, I really can't see a reason why I wouldn't be able to use the heater ports to connect to the bottom of the expansion tank so long as I use both and keep the loop.

sirnixalot · 06-30-2022, 11:45 AM

Some more rambling. Blocking off the water pump bypass hole with a 31mm freeze plug means I can use a traditional thermostat. With that done I can plug the smaller of the heater ports and plumb the larger heater port to the expansion tank.

sirnixalot · 07-01-2022, 08:10 AM

It fits! It's coming back out tomorrow to attach the transmission but I couldn't resist lowering it in last night.

After getting the engine in I sat the radiator & fan assembly on the subframe to get an idea of what I'm working with to orient everything.

It looks like if I bring the bottom of the radiator forward a few inches and tilt the top back I could run the intake over and into the bumper mouth.

gbrettin · 07-01-2022, 06:04 PM

You could do something like this with your radiator (Bryan Settle's setup)

sirnixalot · 07-02-2022, 08:03 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gbrettin

You could do something like this with your radiator (Bryan Settle's setup)

The issue I'm having with leaning the top forward is intake clearance, I want to go over the rad to have the filter in the bumper opening. It's looking like I need to bring the bottom of the radiator about 5-6" forward of the aluminum subframe then tilt back.

This kinda illustrates what I am after

Catch can setup is done. A -10AN line from each valve cover along with a -6AN from the valley cover and the OEM hard line pressed into the passenger valve cover, I probably didn't need to do that one but I didn't want to drill and tap to plug it.

I goofed on the expansion tank. I welded the recovery tank to the bottom not taking into account the "drain" that needs to feed the heater/fill port on the water pump. Sorting that out today and then seeing about the radiator lower mount material

gbrettin · 07-03-2022, 10:11 AM

So something like this:

sirnixalot · 07-03-2022, 08:18 PM

You are exactly right!

Holy **** I’m tired, got the transmission and engine installed to see where needed a bfh. Figured out where needed to hammer and where still does. The top of the tunnel needed some slight persuasion along with the corners of the secondary fire wall.

While the motor was at the correct angle I got the new front crash bar/radiator support tacked up. Used my flux core mig to do the tacks, I remember now why I dislike flux core.

The radiator is pretty much mounted, I still need to make upper mounts but the hoses are run and it’s in its permanent orientation. Next up I need to make ducting and tie the intake into that so I can just mount the filter to the shroud, kinda like the examples above.

The 12” shifter relocation worked out perfectly for the TR6060.

sirnixalot · 07-05-2022, 08:26 AM

Right, so I goofed on the radiator location by completely forgetting about the AC condenser and the oil coolers.

Here is the re-orientation. While I did have to notch the underside of the hood for the intake to clear but the filter snakes down in front of the radiator like I wanted. The powder coat contamination was kicking my *** so of course the ugliest welds are the most visible.

It's going to get re-coated anyway. Top left cooler (barely visible) is a 7 row for the power steering, the 10 row under it is for the transmission and the large 34 row is for the engine.

Shot of the coolers through my cut up bumper. It is in bad shape and will be getting replaced but it's pretty far down on the priority list. Ducting is going to be a pain but I should be able to pull it off.

This is where I ended up putting the oil filter, it's high up and out of the way. I had the thermostat oil cooler sandwich plate from a while back so I decided to reuse it and just get a relocation mount (also Improved racing seems to have no ship date for their all in one relocation/cooler blocks)

Lastly I added a filler neck to the over flow half of the tank and a 12an bung to feed the thermostat housing from the expansion tank half. The radiator cap flange should be here this week, then I can get that stuck on and the hose from that to the over flow done. I am going to probably use some vibrant quick connect 90's for a coolant level sight tube.

sirnixalot · 07-06-2022, 08:07 AM

Didn't get a whole lot done last night, the catch can and steam vent hoses are done though.

Going with the vinyl braid vs the steel braid this time around, way lighter and no having to protect anything close to the line that could possibly be chewed through.

The factory quick connect fittings for the valley and valve covers are a little larger than 3/8" diameter so the usual quick connect to AN adapters wont work. I ended up using the factory ends and tapping them for a 3/8" hose barb fitting.

A little heat shrink.

Now it can easily disconnect vs trying to yank a hose off.

sirnixalot · 07-07-2022, 08:09 AM

More hose from one area code

Oil cooler to sandwich plate hoses done

Fuel feed line done. I need one 6AN to ORB fitting to convert the CJM kit to a dead head system. Glad I didn't have to redo the fuel feed/regulator setup.

Lastly the shortest hose I have ever made for the radiator air bleed since it's below the expansion tank and will have a 0psi cap.

Next up tonight are the oil pan to filter mount hoses, power steering and possibly the transmission hoses

gbrettin · 07-07-2022, 09:41 AM

Looking good man! I love checking your thread for progress.

sirnixalot · 07-08-2022, 08:14 AM

That's mutual, we're all waiting for the SMLH burn out and/or dyno run video!

I was too tired and forgot to take pics but the expansion tank is done aside from the pressure test, oil filter relocation lines are done and I redid the radiator lower mounting legs.

I'll have the material for the upper radiator mounts cut and drilled today at work then I just have to assemble. With some 1/2" round stock welded to a 2x2 square of 1/8 aluminum, will be welded to the radiator end tank, using the 1/8 to spread the load over more area on the thin radiator end tank. Those 1/2" pegs will insert into a rubber bushing housed in a steel bracket that bolts to the 2 upper bolts that secure the original radiator support to the frame rails.

In related news I ordered the Haltech Elite 2500 and their 4 port can hub from BTWTuning yesterday. I need to chase up with wiring specialties about the harness today.

Unfortunately The Z gets pushed out tomorrow for a paying job. I just got delivery of my friends Evo 7 that's basically a rolling shell fresh from the paint shop. We need to do a complete drivetrain install along with intercooler & exhaust fab.

DaveZ03 · 09-19-2022, 09:53 AM

Any updates? I know you mentioned that EVO coming in and taking precedence, just thought I would see how that Sikky kit worked out for you and see how this is coming along.

sirnixalot · 09-20-2022, 08:30 AM

That Evo ended up being way more than an intercooler and exhaust job. It is still on my lift but it will be gone in 10 days.

The kit did require me to trim the "raised" channel on the firewall at the top of the transmission tunnel. I also had to bfh the top of the transmission tunnel to clear the shifter relocation assembly.

There is no changing a clutch with the motor in the car, some of the bell housing bolts are damned near impossible to get to, even then the bellhousing doesn't have enough room to move back to decouple from the motor.

None of the above are complaints, just observations.

Only things I'm waiting on are the wiring harness (glad I ordered it back in April) and I still have to buy the Haltech PD16, dual WBO2 and dash. Once the Evo is gone I'll get the Z pushed back in and get started on the exhaust.

07-01-2022, 06:04 PM	#365 (permalink)
gbrettin A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Portage, MI Posts: 2,284 Drives: Tricycle Rep Power: 589151	You could do something like this with your radiator (Bryan Settle's setup) sirnixalot likes this.

07-03-2022, 10:11 AM	#367 (permalink)
gbrettin A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Portage, MI Posts: 2,284 Drives: Tricycle Rep Power: 589151	So something like this: madwi and sirnixalot like this.

07-07-2022, 09:41 AM	#372 (permalink)
gbrettin A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Oct 2010 Location: Portage, MI Posts: 2,284 Drives: Tricycle Rep Power: 589151	Looking good man! I love checking your thread for progress. sirnixalot likes this.

07-08-2022, 08:14 AM	#373 (permalink)
sirnixalot Track Member Join Date: May 2017 Location: Cayman Islands Posts: 685 Drives: 2010 370Z Rep Power: 57454	That's mutual, we're all waiting for the SMLH burn out and/or dyno run video! I was too tired and forgot to take pics but the expansion tank is done aside from the pressure test, oil filter relocation lines are done and I redid the radiator lower mounting legs. I'll have the material for the upper radiator mounts cut and drilled today at work then I just have to assemble. With some 1/2" round stock welded to a 2x2 square of 1/8 aluminum, will be welded to the radiator end tank, using the 1/8 to spread the load over more area on the thin radiator end tank. Those 1/2" pegs will insert into a rubber bushing housed in a steel bracket that bolts to the 2 upper bolts that secure the original radiator support to the frame rails. In related news I ordered the Haltech Elite 2500 and their 4 port can hub from BTWTuning yesterday. I need to chase up with wiring specialties about the harness today. Unfortunately The Z gets pushed out tomorrow for a paying job. I just got delivery of my friends Evo 7 that's basically a rolling shell fresh from the paint shop. We need to do a complete drivetrain install along with intercooler & exhaust fab. gbrettin and sx moneypit like this. __________________ 2010 Sport - LS3 swap loading 2012 Frontier - BTWTuning VK56DE swap

09-20-2022, 08:30 AM	#375 (permalink)
sirnixalot Track Member Join Date: May 2017 Location: Cayman Islands Posts: 685 Drives: 2010 370Z Rep Power: 57454	That Evo ended up being way more than an intercooler and exhaust job. It is still on my lift but it will be gone in 10 days. The kit did require me to trim the "raised" channel on the firewall at the top of the transmission tunnel. I also had to bfh the top of the transmission tunnel to clear the shifter relocation assembly. There is no changing a clutch with the motor in the car, some of the bell housing bolts are damned near impossible to get to, even then the bellhousing doesn't have enough room to move back to decouple from the motor. None of the above are complaints, just observations. Only things I'm waiting on are the wiring harness (glad I ordered it back in April) and I still have to buy the Haltech PD16, dual WBO2 and dash. Once the Evo is gone I'll get the Z pushed back in and get started on the exhaust. gbrettin, sx moneypit and DaveZ03 like this. __________________ 2010 Sport - LS3 swap loading 2012 Frontier - BTWTuning VK56DE swap

09-19-2022, 09:53 AM	#374 (permalink)
DaveZ03 Base Member Join Date: Feb 2019 Location: Kentucky Posts: 226 Drives: '11 FairladyZ Rep Power: 51859	Any updates? I know you mentioned that EVO coming in and taking precedence, just thought I would see how that Sikky kit worked out for you and see how this is coming along.

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