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Wasting no time I have one down pipe tacked together.
http://www.the370z.com/members/sirni...91872256-n.jpg http://www.the370z.com/members/sirni...90183168-n.jpg http://www.the370z.com/members/sirni...78182400-n.jpg I'll get it finish welded tomorrow |
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Got the catch can lines cut and assembled today. Pissing down with rain and didn't take the downpipe off before that started. Finish welding delayed until it's dry enough to crawl back under |
Looking :cool:
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Confirming everything still bolts up as it should and the pipe routing. http://www.the370z.com/members/sirni...-16-14-pm.jpeg Nailed the drivers side intake http://www.the370z.com/members/sirni...-15-26-pm.jpeg Passenger is a little close to the frame |
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Got the tensioner back from the powdercoater so it and all the pulleys and belt went on. I just need to do final torque on the crank bolt. http://www.the370z.com/members/sirni...0165098581.jpg Power steering cooler mounted up next to the oil cooler http://www.the370z.com/members/sirni...5397377027.jpg The worst picture ever but it shows the exhaust routing http://www.the370z.com/members/sirni...0165098582.jpg Drive shaft as about 1/2"-5/8" of clearance from the merge collector V band clamp http://www.the370z.com/members/sirni...0165098583.jpg 3/8" clearance from the W brace http://www.the370z.com/members/sirni...0165098584.jpg It is ugly but it is the best thing since sliced bread. I realized that I could only line up the down pipe properly by sight on one axis. I made this jig to clamp to the downpipe exit to have it level and following the frame rail. It was clamped further up originallyso it was just on the 45* bend, I didn't take a pic until I started to build the one mid pipe. I was kinda pissed that I wont be able to make the mid pipe symmetrical but I will get over it. I needed the offset to gain drive shaft clearance with the 4" pipe and V band |
Taking about 2 hours a night after work is working out pretty well as far as progress goes.
http://www.the370z.com/members/sirni...8679955568.jpg The drivers side downpipe would have been completed if I remembered to weld on the rear O2 bung. http://www.the370z.com/members/sirni...2538274906.jpg A messy shot of where the 2-1 merge exits. I have a length of 4" tacked to the V band at the right angle to clear the sway bar, cutting it to length today and a bunch of 15* pizza slices to get it angled up and over to the muffler. |
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Got the exhaust tacked up today. It’s the best ground clearance I can get. It’s all tucked up as high as it will go. The tip is some 4” polished stainless with a 7.5* angle http://www.the370z.com/members/sirni...6d8b54118.jpeg Shot of the valve that should keep the neighbors happy |
Dope!
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Well no pictures but progress was made.
The exhaust from the Y back is all finish welded and the rear O2 bung was welded into the passenger down pipe as well. I clocked the valve motor as high as I could get it to keep it out of any splash zone. I still think I am going to have to pack the boot over the motor with some grease to help it survive. It is wired in and works as intended. Moving onto the drivers side downpipe, I completely forgot that I needed to pull a stud out of the turbine housing to clear the steering shaft. Well it is NOT coming out but I did manage to squeeze a cut off wheel in there to cut it down a half inch. That along with grinding down the O2 housing in the same area has gotten me the clearance I need. I am waiting on 2 more 45* bends to show up this week to complete that down pipe. I was going to install the starter but the turbo oil drain needs to disconnect to slide that into place and at that point I ran out of patience for working under the car. So I moved onto the electrical and installed a new battery after replacing the rusty tray bolts and vacuuming out under it. The amount of bolts, nuts and 1/4" drive sockets I found ywas impressive. http://www.the370z.com/members/sirni...02693223-1.jpg I re-clocked the oil temp/pressure gauge since it was off and confirmed the gauges all function as they should. Sucks that they aren't all the same LED color. Fuel pump housing re-installed after I took the 450 out to help a friend. I now have a 525 in there. Other than that I'm waiting on some couplers from Husam and a new set of O2 sensors from Rockauto. If everything gets here this week/next week I am on track for start up and break in on the 8th. |
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Last night I got the starter installed. I've used a "gnats ****" as a unit of measurement before but never have I appreciated it the way I do now.
http://www.the370z.com/members/sirni...7290845226.jpg The alternator, starter, ac compressor and power steering pump are all electrically connected up now. Fedex has downpipe and intake goodies for me to collect. |
We ran out of argon so I am waiting on a new bottle to finish the last down pipe this morning.
O2 sensors are here and the couplers are in Miami so knowing Fedex I will have those tomorrow morning some time. I wasn't expecting the line lock stuff to get here but it did. So I'll get the solenoids mounted up and wired in tonight. |
The downpipe is finally in and all the new O2 sensors. I ended up putting the Innovate wide band sensor in the drivers side down pipe. Last thing I need to crawl under there for is to reconnect the steering shaft and put on the subframe plates.
http://www.the370z.com/members/sirni...7583848491.jpg Plumbed up the power steering cooler, which I had to move over an inch or so to clear the radiator support upright I forgot about. The hoses were P clamped to the frame rail after I took this pic to keep them out of the way. The wiring will get cleaned up tonight with some zip ties. http://www.the370z.com/members/sirni...7583848492.jpg http://www.the370z.com/members/sirni...7583848490.jpg All the hoses and upper intercooler pipes secured and clamped http://www.the370z.com/members/sirni...0195958918.jpg Day time pic is so much better I think the couplers aren't going to make it this week due to the hurricane. |
Fedex says couplers are between here and Miami so I should have them later on today. If I do I am ready to start up tomorrow.
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:happydance::happydance::happydance:
It lives! Final small things to go over tomorrow but no leaks anywhere on the warm up/coolant bleed. Idle log sent to Husam to work some more magic Just wanna give him a special mention cause without his support I would never have been able to make heads or tails of some of this stuff. |
Congratulations!
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Well I have 2 semi-major setbacks.
I have an oil leak coming from the bellhousing. I am hoping it's the rear main seal and not the oil pan seal. I am getting an inspection camera today to see if I can peek behind the flywheel. Secondly, I have NO clue how the hell I fit a 2.5" pipe between the engine mount and frame rail before. It is NOT happening. I have a foot of 2" silicone I am going to use to get past that choke point and step up to the 2.5" after. I am hoping to resolve both of these issues on sunday. I did manage to smash my right thumb and will be losing half the nail, as such I'm having to rely on my brother and some friends to drop the gear box and connect up the coupler. Pain in the *** to have to bother people to do **** I know I am capable of doing. Final push of last minute ******** I hope. |
Oh....I forgot to mention. I tested the wastegates and they crack open at 15psi and are fully extended by 17psi. I knew they were aftermarket actuators but hot damn. I was hoping for 12psi on pump but I guess that's what backing down the ignition timing is for
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How could I possibly goof a rear main seal I asked myself. Turns out my only goof was not checking the crank before installing the first seal.
http://www.the370z.com/members/sirni...4929901606.jpg So those 2 blobs of silicone left on the crank were pressing on the soft lip of the seal as the crank spun, just letting all the oil out. My brother being the ******* MVP that he is came over after work to help me drop the transmission, inspect everything and reinstall it. Thinking I might email AAM about it but I doubt I'll get anywhere. Anyway that saga is over. I also solved the intercooler piping issue. I've got some stuff left to tighten under the car, the front end to install and the interior to clean up. I may strike up the ambition to pull the fuel pump assembly again to see whats up with the level sender. |
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Thanks. It's been a long road but it's almost over.
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Intakes are welded up. 2.5 hrs until I can go home to try. Why is this day at work so long |
Spoke too soon lol
I have 4 codes and 1 in particular has me stumped P0010 P0020 cam position actuators open P0030 Heater control bank 1 O2 sensor Now for the head scratcher. P0040 which means I have the primary O2 connectors swapped between banks. That is physically impossible to me since the primary O2 connectors are up high by the valve covers and the O2 sensor harnesses cannot reach to opposite sides of the motor |
*edit*brb getting non potato video
A little start up/idle. The car is pretty quiet I must say with the 4" exhaust. I am not very sociable in the video sorry, I'm googling the ODB2 codes and full of frustration |
So the P0030 and specifically the P0040 codes are causing limp mode and P0010 & P0020 codes (VVEL actuators open circuit).
P0030 is Bank 1 primary O2 heater open circuit P0040 is Bank 1 primary O2 signal reading Bank 2 readings Seeing as there is no way for me to physically connect the primary O2 sensors to the wrong plug and the open circuit for the heater, I have a short somewhere. I was so busy chasing the VVEL issue checking continuity between the motors, VVEL ecu & relay (all of which were good) only to sit down and re-read the code descriptions to see that P0040 will put the car in limp mode. So switching focus to the O2 sensor, things I have tried so far are as follows All O2 sensors are brand new Swapped Bank 1's sensor for the old stock one, same result Tonight after work I'll be checking continuity between bank 1's O2 and the ecu |
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bracket Youtube] video ID [/youtube] Your videos ID is iCq7dRX70rE. When we put the ID between the tags it looks like this: |
Lesson learned. The Ecutek bluetooth app DTC function is not to be trusted.
*edit* I rescind this comment. I had the app in demo mode. I was trouble shooting codes that didn't exist. Used the laptop and got a P0193. Turns out water got into bank 2's VVEL motor. Cleaned it out and and resynched the position sensors with the Ecutek logger and it revs like a dream now. Tomorrow is bumper on and to reinstall all the plastic clips and give it a wash. Thursday is tuning time |
Thanks Mawdi :tup: |
Got the AC charged up and got the rings seated, it's gone from 14-15 inches of vacuum at idle and engine braking to 19-20.
Got a few tune revisions done as well and for basically no timing and hitting 14psi boost cut at 5k rpm it made 480whp and 515wtq on virtual dyno. This car is going to be nuts |
Well these Achilles ATR Sport 2's are just not gonna cut it :rofl2:I mean I knew that but confirming the hypothesis is entertaining. I am going to need to get some tires to tune on since I am trying to do the WOT pulls in 3rd gear. There is only one road here to do a 4th gear pull on which the **** tires might survive but I don't know if I have the testicular fortitude for that.
Husam has the boost cut set to 15psi and keep in mind this is on wastegate only. http://www.the370z.com/members/sirni...oost-curve.png I am pretty sure these aftermarket actuators are 18psi. I have them adjusted with almost no preload and they are still climbing. Looks like there wont be any need for different boost levels :driving: |
My suspicions were incorrect, they are 1bar actuators.
So we are only a few revisions in on pump gas with our equally hectic schedules and I couldn’t be happier. The car starts like stock and is super smooth. Transition into boost is also smooth and since the wastegates taper so linearly power delivery is predictable for now. I am excited to finalize the pump gas and move onto the MS109 tune. Flex fuel is in the works but I don’t have the fuel system to support more than 600. Goals are 500whp on pump, whatever it will make on x85 and if by some miracle 700whp on MS109. |
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Pour one out for the passenger side turbo:shakes head: Mid pull I heard a loud screech and then lots of white smoke. The motor isn't hurt. Spoke with FP and I'll be sending both to get rebuilt. Their suspicion is the break in material in the oil. I'll be redoing the oil feed on the passenger side to be fed from the little distribution block I made, this will allow me to use one of their filters to protect both turbos. That location allows the filter to be easily accessible to clean. I wanna tell you, up until that point :happydance: holy screaming sheep ****. Rolling into the throttle in 3rd and it just starts roasting these poor Achilles. What I have to do now is get the car in the air (again!) to drop the motor. I am going to try and do it by lowering the whole subframe this time. |
Was the drivers side actually. My hearing is going bad.
http://www.the370z.com/members/sirni...50399477f.jpeg Anyway I emailed FP some pictures yesterday of the turbos and these are first generation greens. Garrett ball bearing chra and turbine wheel with their 68hta compressor. They can still repair them but I’m asking if it makes sense to get new ones since I have to ship them from and back. I don’t want to send them and that one is irreparable. |
For those of us that may use this as a reference for a future turbo install, what would you say the takeaway is?
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Well step 1
Don’t buy used turbos. If you do send them to a reputable shop to get checked out and /or rebuilt. Step 2 I would say regardless if you’re doing a motor break in at the same time as going turbo or not, get a filter for the feed line(s) that’s easily accessible to clean |
I got the turbos out yesterday, man that job is much easier with a lift. The turbo that failed came with a crack in the exhaust manifold that was repaired before but needed repairing again. That repair did not hold, it is not leaking but I am not going to reuse that turbo as a core, this means I need to get new cores.
I was going full "cupcakez" for a little but had to chill out and really think about the situation objectively. I do not have the fuel system, clutch nor tire to support more than 650-700 on race gas at the moment. The lower end of that is attainable with the stock GTR turbo's. I am not in the position to drop another $4k+ on cores and upgrades at the moment. So the way forward is this: Stock turbo's Redo oil feed lines to include oil filters from Turbosmart Redo turbo side of coolant fittings (IHI setup differs from the Garrett) Enjoy the car again I am a little disappointed to say the least but seeing as it will be on pump gas 90% of the time (no E85 at the pump here) it will be in the 500-550 range anyway Maybe next year some time I'll do the fuel system and turbo's over. |
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This was (is) the fastest thing I have owned and I am pretty much hooked on the power level it was at. The question is now, do I put my marriage to the test and send the turbo's to my wife when she goes away next weekend :rofl2: |
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