My 2010 Sport

sirnixalot · 08-06-2019, 07:44 AM

Well I finally got the covers installed. But even that wasn't without panic mode

So you'd think if you are assembling cylinder heads for these as a builder you'd know the tensioner's need to go on before the cam cap/vvel ladder assembly goes on

So I can tell you who wasn't about to pull all of THAT back apart. The rear bolts for both tensioner's were easy to get to from the valve cover side and I used 2 bolts a few threads shorter and shaved the heads a bit and I wiggled them in for the front. The drivers side was NOT an easy task to tighten. Loctite was used.

I got this far before I realized something was up

Not sure why I asked for white on the gear cover pieces. It looked good in my mind, still kinda does. Once the motor is in it won't be so ...in your face?

Another shot of the covers in better lighting

Finalized everything on the passenger side turbo/plumbing wise. I had to seal the compressor housings old school style with a tiny bead of RTV since the o rings weren't there.

Plan is to get it installed before I go on vacation next week. The hard part is going to be getting it out of the house and to the car. I see a ply wood sheet rail road in my future

cv129 · 08-07-2019, 09:31 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sirnixalot

Another shot of the covers in better lighting

Somehow this reminds me of a one piece swimsuit

sirnixalot · 08-23-2019, 07:53 AM

Taking about 2 hours a night after work is working out pretty well as far as progress goes.

The drivers side downpipe would have been completed if I remembered to weld on the rear O2 bung.

A messy shot of where the 2-1 merge exits.

I have a length of 4" tacked to the V band at the right angle to clear the sway bar, cutting it to length today and a bunch of 15* pizza slices to get it angled up and over to the muffler.

sirnixalot · 08-27-2019, 08:33 AM

Well no pictures but progress was made.

The exhaust from the Y back is all finish welded and the rear O2 bung was welded into the passenger down pipe as well. I clocked the valve motor as high as I could get it to keep it out of any splash zone. I still think I am going to have to pack the boot over the motor with some grease to help it survive. It is wired in and works as intended.

Moving onto the drivers side downpipe, I completely forgot that I needed to pull a stud out of the turbine housing to clear the steering shaft. Well it is NOT coming out but I did manage to squeeze a cut off wheel in there to cut it down a half inch. That along with grinding down the O2 housing in the same area has gotten me the clearance I need. I am waiting on 2 more 45* bends to show up this week to complete that down pipe.

I was going to install the starter but the turbo oil drain needs to disconnect to slide that into place and at that point I ran out of patience for working under the car. So I moved onto the electrical and installed a new battery after replacing the rusty tray bolts and vacuuming out under it. The amount of bolts, nuts and 1/4" drive sockets I found ywas impressive.

I re-clocked the oil temp/pressure gauge since it was off and confirmed the gauges all function as they should. Sucks that they aren't all the same LED color.

Fuel pump housing re-installed after I took the 450 out to help a friend. I now have a 525 in there.

Other than that I'm waiting on some couplers from Husam and a new set of O2 sensors from Rockauto. If everything gets here this week/next week I am on track for start up and break in on the 8th.

BettyZ · 08-27-2019, 11:35 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sirnixalot

Well no pictures but progress was made.

The exhaust from the Y back is all finish welded and the rear O2 bung was welded into the passenger down pipe as well. I clocked the valve motor as high as I could get it to keep it out of any splash zone. I still think I am going to have to pack the boot over the motor with some grease to help it survive. It is wired in and works as intended.

Moving onto the drivers side downpipe, I completely forgot that I needed to pull a stud out of the turbine housing to clear the steering shaft. Well it is NOT coming out but I did manage to squeeze a cut off wheel in there to cut it down a half inch. That along with grinding down the O2 housing in the same area has gotten me the clearance I need. I am waiting on 2 more 45* bends to show up this week to complete that down pipe.

I was going to install the starter but the turbo oil drain needs to disconnect to slide that into place and at that point I ran out of patience for working under the car. So I moved onto the electrical and installed a new battery after replacing the rusty tray bolts and vacuuming out under it. The amount of bolts, nuts and 1/4" drive sockets I found ywas impressive.

I re-clocked the oil temp/pressure gauge since it was off and confirmed the gauges all function as they should. Sucks that they aren't all the same LED color.

Fuel pump housing re-installed after I took the 450 out to help a friend. I now have a 525 in there.

Other than that I'm waiting on some couplers from Husam and a new set of O2 sensors from Rockauto. If everything gets here this week/next week I am on track for start up and break in on the 8th.

I feel like we should start a GoFundMe so you can bring your Z to the States...

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

sirnixalot · 08-27-2019, 02:45 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BettyZ

I feel like we should start a GoFundMe so you can bring your Z to the States...

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

Ha! I wish, just so it could actually stretch its legs on a high way or some 1/2 mile stuff.

sirnixalot · 09-04-2019, 11:12 PM

It lives!

Final small things to go over tomorrow but no leaks anywhere on the warm up/coolant bleed. Idle log sent to Husam to work some more magic

Just wanna give him a special mention cause without his support I would never have been able to make heads or tails of some of this stuff.

sirnixalot · 08-07-2019, 07:58 AM

I'm having a little more trouble than I'd like to admit with this oil feed for the drivers side turbo. The issue is revolving around me trying to feed oil to 3 things from 1 source.

With both the stock and innovate oil pressure sensors on this neither can plug in when oriented to clear the motor and alternator

I am bringing the serpentine belt home tonight to see how far I can bend the distribution block bracket to clear the sway bar

Looking at the assembly last night I decided I will get the idler pulley bracket and tensioner coated as well.

BettyZ · 08-07-2019, 08:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sirnixalot

I'm having a little more trouble than I'd like to admit with this oil feed for the drivers side turbo. The issue is revolving around me trying to feed oil to 3 things from 1 source.

With both the stock and innovate oil pressure sensors on this neither can plug in when oriented to clear the motor and alternator

I am bringing the serpentine belt home tonight to see how far I can bend the distribution block bracket to clear the sway bar

Looking at the assembly last night I decided I will get the idler pulley bracket and tensioner coated as well.

I remember reading somewhere on here that getting rid of the stock oil pressure sensor doesn't cause any issues... might be worth looking into...

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

sirnixalot · 08-08-2019, 09:25 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BettyZ

I remember reading somewhere on here that getting rid of the stock oil pressure sensor doesn't cause any issues... might be worth looking into...

Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

I kinda want to keep the idiot light. I'll see if I can make it work with just the Innovate sensor

Got the boost source nipple removed from the drivers side turbo and plugged. Gonna install the intake manifolds and get the vacuum plumbing finalized for everything tonight.

sirnixalot · 08-08-2019, 02:45 PM

Because I can't leave well enough alone I'm making a new power steering reservoir.

sirnixalot · 08-09-2019, 09:05 AM

I did cut the can off the brackets and rotate it so the Vibrant faces forward. Will add a 10an and 6an male bung on the bottom so I can run push lock fittings to the cooler and pump

sirnixalot · 08-12-2019, 08:04 AM

Continuing where I left off with the power steering reservoir

I didn't want to risk any sort of cavitation having both the feed and return right next to each other or having the pressure side for the fluid point straight up so I bent some tubing and welded that to the 6an bung before I welded that to the bottom of the can.

Fire sleeve all the hoses!

More fire sleeve and vacuum hose routing. The drivers side 8mm port by the throttle body is going to feed the FPR and boost gauge. You can barely make out the 1/4" line running to the boost control solenoid

Used the old Evap solenoid mount to bolt the MAC 3 port to the intake manifold. That is fed from the 8mm port on the passenger side throttle body

Left some slack on this line just in case. I need to order some fire sleeve for that.

I have some insulated aluminum P clamps on their way. I am thinking to make an aluminum stand off that uses those 2 valve cover bolts to secure all those hoses to.

Removed the steel nipple from the cross over pipe, drilled and tapped it to return coolant from the passenger turbo

This Tee is coolant returning from the drivers side turbo as well as the thermostat bypass line

I've got the Z1 heater hose and PS hose kits on the way along with a summit 7 row oil cooler and required fittings. Since the rabbit hole valve cover fitting guy seems to be be unresponsive I ordered some 3/8barb to 8an male fittings to have machined to epoxy in there.

When I get back next weekend I'll swap out the drivers side turbo feed line for a shorter one and I dare say it.....It'll be ready to drop in

sirnixalot · 08-18-2019, 05:58 PM

Well I am battling a cold or sinus infection but, nothing clears that up like sweating it out they say?

A couple of buddies swung by and got the engine muscled out of the house and to the work pad

Had to get a shot of the OS Giken

Voila! It's in! That was MUCH easier said than done, we ended up having to disconnect the transmission mount (the drive shaft was off already) and move that back a few inches, mount the motor in place and then wiggle the transmission.

Since we did that I swapped in the Z1 transmission mount at the same time

The drivers side is snuggly

The oil distribution block clears

Hello CJM rails

Epoxied some 8an push lock hose ends into the other vent tubes on the valve cover.

Well that's a mile stone for me. I have a couple 45* bends i need to cut up to start on the down pipes.

The intakes and intercooler plumbing I pick up from the powdercoater tomorrow.

BettyZ · 08-18-2019, 06:39 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by sirnixalot

Well I am battling a cold or sinus infection but, nothing clears that up like sweating it out they say?

A couple of buddies swung by and got the engine muscled out of the house and to the work pad

Had to get a shot of the OS Giken

Voila! It's in! That was MUCH easier said than done, we ended up having to disconnect the transmission mount (the drive shaft was off already) and move that back a few inches, mount the motor in place and then wiggle the transmission.

Since we did that I swapped in the Z1 transmission mount at the same time

The drivers side is snuggly

The oil distribution block clears

Hello CJM rails

Epoxied some 8an push lock hose ends into the other vent tubes on the valve cover.

Well that's a mile stone for me. I have a couple 45* bends i need to cut up to start on the down pipes.

The intakes and intercooler plumbing I pick up from the powdercoater tomorrow.

Really glad to see this all coming together!

08-06-2019, 07:44 AM	#1 (permalink)
sirnixalot Track Member Join Date: May 2017 Location: Cayman Islands Posts: 685 Drives: 2010 370Z Rep Power: 57454	Well I finally got the covers installed. But even that wasn't without panic mode So you'd think if you are assembling cylinder heads for these as a builder you'd know the tensioner's need to go on before the cam cap/vvel ladder assembly goes on So I can tell you who wasn't about to pull all of THAT back apart. The rear bolts for both tensioner's were easy to get to from the valve cover side and I used 2 bolts a few threads shorter and shaved the heads a bit and I wiggled them in for the front. The drivers side was NOT an easy task to tighten. Loctite was used. I got this far before I realized something was up Not sure why I asked for white on the gear cover pieces. It looked good in my mind, still kinda does. Once the motor is in it won't be so ...in your face? Another shot of the covers in better lighting Finalized everything on the passenger side turbo/plumbing wise. I had to seal the compressor housings old school style with a tiny bead of RTV since the o rings weren't there. Plan is to get it installed before I go on vacation next week. The hard part is going to be getting it out of the house and to the car. I see a ply wood sheet rail road in my future gbrettin, Hotrodz, madwi and 2 others like this. __________________ 2010 Sport - LS3 swap loading 2012 Frontier - BTWTuning VK56DE swap

08-23-2019, 07:53 AM	#3 (permalink)
sirnixalot Track Member Join Date: May 2017 Location: Cayman Islands Posts: 685 Drives: 2010 370Z Rep Power: 57454	Taking about 2 hours a night after work is working out pretty well as far as progress goes. The drivers side downpipe would have been completed if I remembered to weld on the rear O2 bung. A messy shot of where the 2-1 merge exits. I have a length of 4" tacked to the V band at the right angle to clear the sway bar, cutting it to length today and a bunch of 15* pizza slices to get it angled up and over to the muffler. __________________ 2010 Sport - LS3 swap loading 2012 Frontier - BTWTuning VK56DE swap

08-27-2019, 08:33 AM	#4 (permalink)
sirnixalot Track Member Join Date: May 2017 Location: Cayman Islands Posts: 685 Drives: 2010 370Z Rep Power: 57454	Well no pictures but progress was made. The exhaust from the Y back is all finish welded and the rear O2 bung was welded into the passenger down pipe as well. I clocked the valve motor as high as I could get it to keep it out of any splash zone. I still think I am going to have to pack the boot over the motor with some grease to help it survive. It is wired in and works as intended. Moving onto the drivers side downpipe, I completely forgot that I needed to pull a stud out of the turbine housing to clear the steering shaft. Well it is NOT coming out but I did manage to squeeze a cut off wheel in there to cut it down a half inch. That along with grinding down the O2 housing in the same area has gotten me the clearance I need. I am waiting on 2 more 45* bends to show up this week to complete that down pipe. I was going to install the starter but the turbo oil drain needs to disconnect to slide that into place and at that point I ran out of patience for working under the car. So I moved onto the electrical and installed a new battery after replacing the rusty tray bolts and vacuuming out under it. The amount of bolts, nuts and 1/4" drive sockets I found ywas impressive. I re-clocked the oil temp/pressure gauge since it was off and confirmed the gauges all function as they should. Sucks that they aren't all the same LED color. Fuel pump housing re-installed after I took the 450 out to help a friend. I now have a 525 in there. Other than that I'm waiting on some couplers from Husam and a new set of O2 sensors from Rockauto. If everything gets here this week/next week I am on track for start up and break in on the 8th. __________________ 2010 Sport - LS3 swap loading 2012 Frontier - BTWTuning VK56DE swap

09-04-2019, 11:12 PM	#7 (permalink)
sirnixalot Track Member Join Date: May 2017 Location: Cayman Islands Posts: 685 Drives: 2010 370Z Rep Power: 57454	It lives! Final small things to go over tomorrow but no leaks anywhere on the warm up/coolant bleed. Idle log sent to Husam to work some more magic Just wanna give him a special mention cause without his support I would never have been able to make heads or tails of some of this stuff. __________________ 2010 Sport - LS3 swap loading 2012 Frontier - BTWTuning VK56DE swap

08-07-2019, 07:58 AM	#8 (permalink)
sirnixalot Track Member Join Date: May 2017 Location: Cayman Islands Posts: 685 Drives: 2010 370Z Rep Power: 57454	I'm having a little more trouble than I'd like to admit with this oil feed for the drivers side turbo. The issue is revolving around me trying to feed oil to 3 things from 1 source. With both the stock and innovate oil pressure sensors on this neither can plug in when oriented to clear the motor and alternator I am bringing the serpentine belt home tonight to see how far I can bend the distribution block bracket to clear the sway bar Looking at the assembly last night I decided I will get the idler pulley bracket and tensioner coated as well. JARblue, Hotrodz, madwi and 2 others like this. __________________ 2010 Sport - LS3 swap loading 2012 Frontier - BTWTuning VK56DE swap

08-08-2019, 02:45 PM	#11 (permalink)
sirnixalot Track Member Join Date: May 2017 Location: Cayman Islands Posts: 685 Drives: 2010 370Z Rep Power: 57454	Because I can't leave well enough alone I'm making a new power steering reservoir. BettyZ likes this. __________________ 2010 Sport - LS3 swap loading 2012 Frontier - BTWTuning VK56DE swap

08-09-2019, 09:05 AM	#12 (permalink)
sirnixalot Track Member Join Date: May 2017 Location: Cayman Islands Posts: 685 Drives: 2010 370Z Rep Power: 57454	I did cut the can off the brackets and rotate it so the Vibrant faces forward. Will add a 10an and 6an male bung on the bottom so I can run push lock fittings to the cooler and pump Hotrodz, madwi and BettyZ like this. __________________ 2010 Sport - LS3 swap loading 2012 Frontier - BTWTuning VK56DE swap

08-12-2019, 08:04 AM	#13 (permalink)
sirnixalot Track Member Join Date: May 2017 Location: Cayman Islands Posts: 685 Drives: 2010 370Z Rep Power: 57454	Continuing where I left off with the power steering reservoir I didn't want to risk any sort of cavitation having both the feed and return right next to each other or having the pressure side for the fluid point straight up so I bent some tubing and welded that to the 6an bung before I welded that to the bottom of the can. Fire sleeve all the hoses! More fire sleeve and vacuum hose routing. The drivers side 8mm port by the throttle body is going to feed the FPR and boost gauge. You can barely make out the 1/4" line running to the boost control solenoid Used the old Evap solenoid mount to bolt the MAC 3 port to the intake manifold. That is fed from the 8mm port on the passenger side throttle body Left some slack on this line just in case. I need to order some fire sleeve for that. I have some insulated aluminum P clamps on their way. I am thinking to make an aluminum stand off that uses those 2 valve cover bolts to secure all those hoses to. Removed the steel nipple from the cross over pipe, drilled and tapped it to return coolant from the passenger turbo This Tee is coolant returning from the drivers side turbo as well as the thermostat bypass line I've got the Z1 heater hose and PS hose kits on the way along with a summit 7 row oil cooler and required fittings. Since the rabbit hole valve cover fitting guy seems to be be unresponsive I ordered some 3/8barb to 8an male fittings to have machined to epoxy in there. When I get back next weekend I'll swap out the drivers side turbo feed line for a shorter one and I dare say it.....It'll be ready to drop in Hotrodz, husam2012, Baronsmokes and 1 others like this. __________________ 2010 Sport - LS3 swap loading 2012 Frontier - BTWTuning VK56DE swap Last edited by sirnixalot; 08-12-2019 at 02:32 PM.

08-18-2019, 05:58 PM	#14 (permalink)
sirnixalot Track Member Join Date: May 2017 Location: Cayman Islands Posts: 685 Drives: 2010 370Z Rep Power: 57454	Well I am battling a cold or sinus infection but, nothing clears that up like sweating it out they say? A couple of buddies swung by and got the engine muscled out of the house and to the work pad Had to get a shot of the OS Giken Voila! It's in! That was MUCH easier said than done, we ended up having to disconnect the transmission mount (the drive shaft was off already) and move that back a few inches, mount the motor in place and then wiggle the transmission. Since we did that I swapped in the Z1 transmission mount at the same time The drivers side is snuggly The oil distribution block clears Hello CJM rails Epoxied some 8an push lock hose ends into the other vent tubes on the valve cover. Well that's a mile stone for me. I have a couple 45* bends i need to cut up to start on the down pipes. The intakes and intercooler plumbing I pick up from the powdercoater tomorrow. __________________ 2010 Sport - LS3 swap loading 2012 Frontier - BTWTuning VK56DE swap

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