Well I finally got the covers installed. But even that wasn't without panic mode

So you'd think if you are assembling cylinder heads for these as a builder you'd know the tensioner's need to go on before the cam cap/vvel ladder assembly goes on

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So I can tell you who wasn't about to pull all of THAT back apart. The rear bolts for both tensioner's were easy to get to from the valve cover side and I used 2 bolts a few threads shorter and shaved the heads a bit and I wiggled them in for the front. The drivers side was NOT an easy task to tighten. Loctite was used.

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I got this far before I realized something was up

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Not sure why I asked for white on the gear cover pieces. It looked good in my mind, still kinda does. Once the motor is in it won't be so ...in your face?

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Another shot of the covers in better lighting

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Finalized everything on the passenger side turbo/plumbing wise. I had to seal the compressor housings old school style with a tiny bead of RTV since the o rings weren't there.

Plan is to get it installed before I go on vacation next week. The hard part is going to be getting it out of the house and to the car. I see a ply wood sheet rail road in my future

I'm having a little more trouble than I'd like to admit with this oil feed for the drivers side turbo. The issue is revolving around me trying to feed oil to 3 things from 1 source.

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With both the stock and innovate oil pressure sensors on this neither can plug in when oriented to clear the motor and alternator

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I am bringing the serpentine belt home tonight to see how far I can bend the distribution block bracket to clear the sway bar

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Looking at the assembly last night I decided I will get the idler pulley bracket and tensioner coated as well.

I remember reading somewhere on here that getting rid of the stock oil pressure sensor doesn't cause any issues... might be worth looking into...

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Somehow this reminds me of a one piece swimsuit :icon17:

I kinda want to keep the idiot light. I'll see if I can make it work with just the Innovate sensor

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Got the boost source nipple removed from the drivers side turbo and plugged. Gonna install the intake manifolds and get the vacuum plumbing finalized for everything tonight.

Because I can't leave well enough alone I'm making a new power steering reservoir.

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I did cut the can off the brackets and rotate it so the Vibrant faces forward. Will add a 10an and 6an male bung on the bottom so I can run push lock fittings to the cooler and pump

Continuing where I left off with the power steering reservoir

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I didn't want to risk any sort of cavitation having both the feed and return right next to each other or having the pressure side for the fluid point straight up so I bent some tubing and welded that to the 6an bung before I welded that to the bottom of the can.

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Fire sleeve all the hoses!

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More fire sleeve and vacuum hose routing. The drivers side 8mm port by the throttle body is going to feed the FPR and boost gauge. You can barely make out the 1/4" line running to the boost control solenoid

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Used the old Evap solenoid mount to bolt the MAC 3 port to the intake manifold. That is fed from the 8mm port on the passenger side throttle body

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Left some slack on this line just in case. I need to order some fire sleeve for that.

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I have some insulated aluminum P clamps on their way. I am thinking to make an aluminum stand off that uses those 2 valve cover bolts to secure all those hoses to.

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Removed the steel nipple from the cross over pipe, drilled and tapped it to return coolant from the passenger turbo

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This Tee is coolant returning from the drivers side turbo as well as the thermostat bypass line

I've got the Z1 heater hose and PS hose kits on the way along with a summit 7 row oil cooler and required fittings. Since the rabbit hole valve cover fitting guy seems to be be unresponsive I ordered some 3/8barb to 8an male fittings to have machined to epoxy in there.

When I get back next weekend I'll swap out the drivers side turbo feed line for a shorter one and I dare say it.....It'll be ready to drop in :happydance:

Well I am battling a cold or sinus infection but, nothing clears that up like sweating it out they say?

A couple of buddies swung by and got the engine muscled out of the house and to the work pad

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Had to get a shot of the OS Giken


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Voila! It's in! That was MUCH easier said than done, we ended up having to disconnect the transmission mount (the drive shaft was off already) and move that back a few inches, mount the motor in place and then wiggle the transmission.

Since we did that I swapped in the Z1 transmission mount at the same time

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The drivers side is snuggly

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The oil distribution block clears

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Hello CJM rails

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Epoxied some 8an push lock hose ends into the other vent tubes on the valve cover.


Well that's a mile stone for me. I have a couple 45* bends i need to cut up to start on the down pipes.

The intakes and intercooler plumbing I pick up from the powdercoater tomorrow.

Really glad to see this all coming together!

Wasting no time I have one down pipe tacked together.

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I'll get it finish welded tomorrow

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Got the catch can lines cut and assembled today.

Pissing down with rain and didn't take the downpipe off before that started. Finish welding delayed until it's dry enough to crawl back under

Looking :cool:

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Confirming everything still bolts up as it should and the pipe routing.

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Nailed the drivers side intake

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Passenger is a little close to the frame

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Got the tensioner back from the powdercoater so it and all the pulleys and belt went on. I just need to do final torque on the crank bolt.

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Power steering cooler mounted up next to the oil cooler

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The worst picture ever but it shows the exhaust routing

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Drive shaft as about 1/2"-5/8" of clearance from the merge collector V band clamp

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3/8" clearance from the W brace

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It is ugly but it is the best thing since sliced bread. I realized that I could only line up the down pipe properly by sight on one axis. I made this jig to clamp to the downpipe exit to have it level and following the frame rail. It was clamped further up originallyso it was just on the 45* bend, I didn't take a pic until I started to build the one mid pipe.

I was kinda pissed that I wont be able to make the mid pipe symmetrical but I will get over it. I needed the offset to gain drive shaft clearance with the 4" pipe and V band