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Originally Posted by cigarclifford Outstanding progress Mr Gavin -Clifford Thank you Mr. Clifford! We will have to get together at a meet here soon! Edit- I just realized that I
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#1 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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Thank you Mr. Clifford!
We will have to get together at a meet here soon! ![]() Edit- I just realized that I hardly can ready that Lime Green color
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![]() Birdman's Build: Powerhouse Amuse/ Nismo/ Eibach/ ACT/ Tommy Kaira/ Avant Garde/ Fast Intentions/ Project Kics/ Fly 1 Motorsports/ EVO-R/ Z1 Motorsports/ Weber Sports/ Zoom/ Zele Japan Last edited by birdman71; 05-18-2016 at 05:41 PM. |
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#2 (permalink) | |
Enthusiast Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: San Diego
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Drives: 2010 370z 40th 6MT
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Yo buddy as an enthusiast who had the opportunity to meet you in person and all. I gotta say it makes me very happy to see how far you've brought your Z along and the personal touch you're giving it ![]() Yes, I replaced the G with a Z, it's cheesy but Zuck it XD haha |
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#3 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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Over the weekend did a wash, wax and shine and was looking good!
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ALREADY GOT SOMETHING IN THE MAIL!!!! Got my Powerhouse Amuse R1 Titan Shift knob in the mail on Saturday!! ![]()
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#5 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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WE still need to get together and hang out
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#7 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
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#9 (permalink) | |
A True Z Fanatic
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1. don't high rev downshift 2. don't downshift PERIOD lol, throw it in neutral and coast into a stop 3. Brake pads are cheaper than clutches in parts and labor 4. Learn from my dumbass ![]() ![]()
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#10 (permalink) | |
Enthusiast Member
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: San Diego
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Awe wtf!? Seriously I can't down shift? D: what's the point of having a manual?? |
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#11 (permalink) | |
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Lmao, both of you are kind of right. Allow me to explain.
This is the clutch I currently have installed that has slipped: NZ2-XTSS // Advanced Clutch Technology As you can tell the clutch disc has a small opening for a moderate to heavy pedal effort. This feel was EXTREMELY STIFF when first installed. This made me pretty much relearn how to drive this car which probably damaged the clutch a bit. The new clutch I'm getting has a much more open face of the clutch disc. Here is where it went wrong: At the time with installing of the clutch and pressure plate and ACT flywheel, I also installed the Z1 CSC elim kit, which when not adjusted correctly or every couple thousand miles, the tuning fork and throw-out bearing in the clutch system will constantly wear on the clutch causing it to slip. That is not the main issue, but provides more than normal wear over time. The main issue is that there have been many times I have had to High Rev Downshift where the added stress on the clutch is immense. A lot of times downshifting back into the 5-6k rpm range. Usually due to other drivers around me and traffic. There have been a couple times I can count on one hand that I have burnt up the clutch. Of course I always thought "Why? if my foot is all the way off the clutch" but I figured after hearing about the fork and throw-out bearing it made more sense. It also doesn't help doing spirited drives through GMR every month as well. Lots of shifting and lots of high rev downshifts after coming out of a turn and going into the next. So a combination of High Rev Downshifts, fork and bearing wear and having to almost launch when in 1st has made for the Clutch Slip. Quote:
#1: If you want ANY clutch to last the longest, but especially this one, don't down shift unless you are downshifting only up to 3500 rpm or so. The added stress on the clutch is normal at that point. #2 : This was more of a joke, although if you think about the cost of a clutch compared to brake pads it is cheaper to buy brake pads while not downshifting to save clutch life. Since Mig (fairladyz40th) went with the same clutch system I did as I linked above minus the Z1 csc kit, I was just letting him know not to high rev downshift and don't be a dumbass like me and wear out his clutch in 4 months like I did. Otherwise itll be another $1k outa pocket... again like me... :shakeshead: Heck right now I CANNOT get my revs above 3200, otherwise the clutch slips and shoots the revs. It also takes me close to 20 seconds to get going 35mph from a deadstop After doing more research on the types and differences in the clutch plate, plus researching about the stock pedal vrs rjm v3.1 pedal I went with a new clutch and the rjm v3.1 pedal as well. The stock pedal will cause wear on an aftermarket clutch too.
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![]() Birdman's Build: Powerhouse Amuse/ Nismo/ Eibach/ ACT/ Tommy Kaira/ Avant Garde/ Fast Intentions/ Project Kics/ Fly 1 Motorsports/ EVO-R/ Z1 Motorsports/ Weber Sports/ Zoom/ Zele Japan Last edited by birdman71; 05-27-2016 at 02:04 PM. |
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#12 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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Cars lookin good man.
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638WHP 541WTQ @ 13.5PSI
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#13 (permalink) |
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Thanks brotha!
![]() I'm happy with the way she is turning out too. I have an idea of what I am doing for the entire build now as well. I am going to probably do the Rowen kit (front and back bumpers and sideskirts with blades) and I'm going to have Bulletproof send it off for paint more than likely as well. Going to keep my Rae Blue color code and oem paint, will have rock chips fixed on oem paint as well. Rock chip fixes and new paint is going to be color corrected and then the whole car will get ceramic coated to protect the paint. I'm going to keep my hood and fenders most likely and paint them as well, same process. Probably going to go with the Varis CF Hyper Narrow GT wing. Possibly have a hookup to a photo-shoot with Stance Nation soon too, if it comes through, interested in doing some duo shots? It'd be local places. Sadly will be before I get all those parts above before the photo-shoot, but that is my goal right now.
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#14 (permalink) |
A True Z Fanatic
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Just some more pictures before I actually install the shift knob, looking to get to it later today
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() More to Come after its been installed!
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