Making my own CF parts... Need help!

nogoodname · 08-31-2009, 04:11 PM

wrap my hard wood floors in CF...lol

dainedazz · 08-31-2009, 04:13 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chupacabra

because, eating cheerios in the morning is all about speed.

loololololololololololol

nogoodname · 08-31-2009, 04:14 PM

CF pen would be nice to have.....

Spawn Aero should make CF the370z pens.... i'd buy one...lol

how much could it be...hahahahahahhahahahah

!xoible · 08-31-2009, 04:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BanningZ

did you blow your wad at lightning speed?

Ouch vag burns

vajayjay was also CF... in fact, it's a a whole inflatable CF girlfriend that i got shipped from Japan.

Chupacabra · 08-31-2009, 04:22 PM

Carbon Fiber can opener would be pimp.

nogoodname · 08-31-2009, 04:23 PM

a CF cheese grater would be pimp

!xoible · 08-31-2009, 04:25 PM

i will stop when Lil' John's bling is all CF

!xoible · 08-31-2009, 04:26 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Chupacabra

Carbon Fiber can opener would be pimp.

btw, PM sent dude

SpawnAeroJohn · 09-26-2009, 02:41 AM

I herd my name in a post up above!? Here is a tutorial and you can take my word for this and PM me if you need help. I have a boat load of experience in wrapping parts in carbon fiber, clearing table tops with epoxy, and paint spraying applications (all this will apply in your project)

What you first need is and the perfect place for small purchases is Fiberglass , Epoxy , Composites, Carbon Fiber - U.S. Composites, Inc.

You will need
-Carbon fiber. If you are wrapping the desk I'd recommend getting a black gel coat (you will need a bottom base / gel coat) or just wrapping it in two layers of carbon fiber. You want to do either or so that you don’t see the desk between the spaces in the weave.

For this the kind of carbon fiber I'd recommend is 2x2 twill 6K. Since its thicker its much easier to keep the lines straight than all distorted. If you get 6K (not 3K) then you wont need a 2nd layer.

- At least 3 brushes
- Some lacquer thinner to clean the brushes and any spills
- Some shop rags (autozone a bag of 20 for 9 dollars or a 3 pack for 2)
- black gel tint for the resin (not needed if you are using 6K cloth or 2 layers of 3K)
- resin (For this I would strongly recommend table top epoxy, the kind they use to coat bar tops)
- gloves
- various grits of wet sanding paper (120 - 2000)
- Masking tape and paper
- and a few sheets of regular sand paper. The grit doesn’t matter as long as its no higher than 320.

So first what you want to do is clean the table top with a rag of thinner. Depending on the table I wouldn’t clean it with water because if the top soaks moisture that could ruin the resin.

Then you want to sand the table top with your sand paper (320 or lower) and really sand it well. This will let the resin grab the table.

When ever I want to use epoxy and wood what I always do (and you should do this too) is since the table is sanded down. If its to the point where its raw wood that means its very absorbent. What you want to do is mix some resin with lacquer thinner until its very thin (not water thin) but thin. Brush that on very, very thin and let it soak into the wood. You want as little as possible on the surface you want it to soak. Test a small area first. If it wont soak in then skip the step above and go straight to wetting the surface out. Mix some more epoxy (non thinned) and brush on a thin coat on the surface where it glosses. Let that semi cure.

When the surface is super tacky but not runny drape over the carbon fiber fabric. You will probably need a bud to help you.

A good trick to keeping the weave straight. Before you cut the size you want tape up the perimeter with masking tape. Not only that help keep the weave straight it will keep the sides from fraying and shedding into the surface of the table while you are laying the fabric down.

Once the fabric is down pat it all down (with some nice gloves) and you need to make sure the resin isn’t runny otherwise it will soak to the top, stick to your gloves, and when you pat the cloth you will pull the weave and ruin the look. So pat it down and then let that cure. Some will say don’t let it cure go and put the resin over it right after you have the fabric the way you want it. Just don’t because for inexperienced workers you can end up shifting the weave and having places lift giving you an uneven surface. Letting it cure will keep the weave straight and stuck to the surface while you are coating the top.

Anyways moving on... Now since the bottom layer of resin is cured you want to wet out the fabric. Make sure there aren’t any contaminates or what not on the surface that can get caught in the resin. Then mix up some resin and brush it on thin. It shouldn’t be fully covered and there will be spots that are very dimply, wavy, and rough but that’s ok. Make sure there’s no dust on and let that semi cure. When the state is very tacky like before you put on the carbon fiber you want to then brush on another coat. This time a little thicker.

Some will say sand before you put another coat on but don’t. If you sand you can sand too far and hit the fabric. This way is easier any how.

Let that semi cure and then apply a 3rd coat. That 3rd coat should cover everything.

Once that is FULLY cured you can wet sand it starting with maybe 180 - 220. USE A BLOCK otherwise it will be very wavy. When you sand it you want to sand in straight lines or a circular motion taking long strokes. The longer the strokes the smoother the surface you will have. If you focus at one tiny tiny are at a time you will have a wavy surface. If you need to focus on one area more than another then do so but every few seconds you want to lengthen the strokes so you keep the surface level otherwise you will have waves.

If you can use a DA (electric or air sander) Then do so but the you cant wet sand unless you are using a hook it (velcro) sander.

If you notice some spots are really sanded down well and other spots are still shiny those shiny spots mean that its a low point. The heavily sanded spots are high points. You are doing fine. Just recoat with one or two more coats in the same method as above and that should take care of the high and low spots. But you will need to sand again.

Once you see that most of it is sanded then you can go to a higher grit. Then once you went over the entire surface well with the higher grit you can go higher, and higher, and higher until you get to at least 1500 - 2000 grit. Once you get to 2000 grit then you will have the matte finish look but with micro scratches. So then you might want to take some rubbing compound and gently buff it to remove some of the sanding marks. If you use too much, too fast, too many times then you will get a shiny surface so don’t be generous with it.

OR after you get to 1500 to 2000 grit paper instead of using rubbing compound use a matte finish clear coat. Spray on a few mist coats to get the surface tacky, then go to the flow coats. Don’t try to mimic you tube videos. Just apply coat after coat at a comfortable pace and slowly build up the thickness. Don’t try to dump it on if you don’t have experience with painting.

I’m not sure if I have everything down but I believe I do. Its late Im tired….

P.S!!! Mask off everything that wont be touched with epoxy. Don’t use that blue painters tape crap. Go to your auto parts store and purchase the green 3M tape. That stuff is the best!

Also don’t use regular house hold scissors to cut carbon fiber it wont work. Try to get some nice NEW 15 dollar scissors. The better the scissors the cleaner the weave will be. Bad scissors cant cut carbon fiber well and if it does cut semi well it pulls the weave in different directions.

Before you brush anything pull the hairs with your hands to get any loose strands off.

Again if I missed some parts or am confusing let me know and I’ll help you further. But its not easy to do this especially on your first time, and its not easy to teach this to somebody who has no experience in this or a similar field. If you are good with your hands you should do ok. The hardest part will be the sanding and trying to keep everything level. But since it’s a big flat piece everything else shouldn’t be too hard.

phelan · 09-26-2009, 03:34 AM

^ holy crap that's a lot to read, but rep for detailed post!

BanningZ · 09-26-2009, 05:29 AM

dainedazz · 09-26-2009, 09:11 AM

carbon fiber kicksssssssssssssssssssssssssss

SpawnAeroJohn · 09-26-2009, 06:54 PM

Thanks for the rep! Back at cha!

08-31-2009, 04:22 PM	#20 (permalink)
Chupacabra Enthusiast Member Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: Weston, Florida Posts: 477 Drives: 09 Nissan 370z s M6 Rep Power: 200	Carbon Fiber can opener would be pimp. __________________ Where are my aluminum pedals?

08-31-2009, 04:25 PM	#22 (permalink)
!xoible Base Member Join Date: Feb 2009 Location: west Posts: 245 Drives: some car Rep Power: 185	i will stop when Lil' John's bling is all CF __________________ welcome to the internet. now ur out of ur ***** mind if you get offended at this ** ^^^

09-26-2009, 03:34 AM	#25 (permalink)
phelan A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Apr 2009 Location: CA Age: 38 Posts: 9,513 Drives: Scoobaroo Rep Power: 3406	^ holy crap that's a lot to read, but rep for detailed post! __________________ 凛 ('Rin') - 2009 Nissan 370Z With silence comes peace. With peace comes freedom. With freedom comes silence.

09-26-2009, 05:29 AM	#26 (permalink)
BanningZ A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: nowhere Posts: 5,478 Drives: 06' Nismo Frontier Rep Power: 29	__________________ Become a Premium Member: Click HERE MB 06' Nismo VQ40DE

09-26-2009, 09:11 AM	#27 (permalink)
dainedazz A True Z Fanatic Join Date: Jan 2009 Location: NY, NJ, Philippines Posts: 1,325 Drives: 09' SR 6MT Z34 Rep Power: 293	carbon fiber kicksssssssssssssssssssssssssss __________________ DaineZ' Rosalena \| Kenwood \| Pioneer \| 3M \| 180 Custom \| Stillen \| Z1 \| Fast Intentions \| Setrab \| Eibach \| Varis \| UpRev \| TEIN \| UAM \| Amuse \| Bride \| Southbend \| WORK \| TWM \| BFGoodrich \| Robispec \| TAKATA \| GTSPEC \| *Instagram* @johndainez

08-31-2009, 04:11 PM	#16 (permalink)
nogoodname Lifetime Premium Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Montreal Posts: 22,357 Drives: E46 M3 Rep Power: 1765	wrap my hard wood floors in CF...lol

08-31-2009, 04:14 PM	#18 (permalink)
nogoodname Lifetime Premium Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Montreal Posts: 22,357 Drives: E46 M3 Rep Power: 1765	CF pen would be nice to have..... Spawn Aero should make CF the370z pens.... i'd buy one...lol how much could it be...hahahahahahhahahahah

08-31-2009, 04:23 PM	#21 (permalink)
nogoodname Lifetime Premium Join Date: Nov 2008 Location: Montreal Posts: 22,357 Drives: E46 M3 Rep Power: 1765	a CF cheese grater would be pimp

09-26-2009, 02:41 AM	#24 (permalink)
SpawnAeroJohn NOT A CURRENT VENDOR Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Chicago Posts: 609 Drives: you Rep Power: 17	I herd my name in a post up above!? Here is a tutorial and you can take my word for this and PM me if you need help. I have a boat load of experience in wrapping parts in carbon fiber, clearing table tops with epoxy, and paint spraying applications (all this will apply in your project) What you first need is and the perfect place for small purchases is Fiberglass , Epoxy , Composites, Carbon Fiber - U.S. Composites, Inc. You will need -Carbon fiber. If you are wrapping the desk I'd recommend getting a black gel coat (you will need a bottom base / gel coat) or just wrapping it in two layers of carbon fiber. You want to do either or so that you don’t see the desk between the spaces in the weave. For this the kind of carbon fiber I'd recommend is 2x2 twill 6K. Since its thicker its much easier to keep the lines straight than all distorted. If you get 6K (not 3K) then you wont need a 2nd layer. - At least 3 brushes - Some lacquer thinner to clean the brushes and any spills - Some shop rags (autozone a bag of 20 for 9 dollars or a 3 pack for 2) - black gel tint for the resin (not needed if you are using 6K cloth or 2 layers of 3K) - resin (For this I would strongly recommend table top epoxy, the kind they use to coat bar tops) - gloves - various grits of wet sanding paper (120 - 2000) - Masking tape and paper - and a few sheets of regular sand paper. The grit doesn’t matter as long as its no higher than 320. So first what you want to do is clean the table top with a rag of thinner. Depending on the table I wouldn’t clean it with water because if the top soaks moisture that could ruin the resin. Then you want to sand the table top with your sand paper (320 or lower) and really sand it well. This will let the resin grab the table. When ever I want to use epoxy and wood what I always do (and you should do this too) is since the table is sanded down. If its to the point where its raw wood that means its very absorbent. What you want to do is mix some resin with lacquer thinner until its very thin (not water thin) but thin. Brush that on very, very thin and let it soak into the wood. You want as little as possible on the surface you want it to soak. Test a small area first. If it wont soak in then skip the step above and go straight to wetting the surface out. Mix some more epoxy (non thinned) and brush on a thin coat on the surface where it glosses. Let that semi cure. When the surface is super tacky but not runny drape over the carbon fiber fabric. You will probably need a bud to help you. A good trick to keeping the weave straight. Before you cut the size you want tape up the perimeter with masking tape. Not only that help keep the weave straight it will keep the sides from fraying and shedding into the surface of the table while you are laying the fabric down. Once the fabric is down pat it all down (with some nice gloves) and you need to make sure the resin isn’t runny otherwise it will soak to the top, stick to your gloves, and when you pat the cloth you will pull the weave and ruin the look. So pat it down and then let that cure. Some will say don’t let it cure go and put the resin over it right after you have the fabric the way you want it. Just don’t because for inexperienced workers you can end up shifting the weave and having places lift giving you an uneven surface. Letting it cure will keep the weave straight and stuck to the surface while you are coating the top. Anyways moving on... Now since the bottom layer of resin is cured you want to wet out the fabric. Make sure there aren’t any contaminates or what not on the surface that can get caught in the resin. Then mix up some resin and brush it on thin. It shouldn’t be fully covered and there will be spots that are very dimply, wavy, and rough but that’s ok. Make sure there’s no dust on and let that semi cure. When the state is very tacky like before you put on the carbon fiber you want to then brush on another coat. This time a little thicker. Some will say sand before you put another coat on but don’t. If you sand you can sand too far and hit the fabric. This way is easier any how. Let that semi cure and then apply a 3rd coat. That 3rd coat should cover everything. Once that is FULLY cured you can wet sand it starting with maybe 180 - 220. USE A BLOCK otherwise it will be very wavy. When you sand it you want to sand in straight lines or a circular motion taking long strokes. The longer the strokes the smoother the surface you will have. If you focus at one tiny tiny are at a time you will have a wavy surface. If you need to focus on one area more than another then do so but every few seconds you want to lengthen the strokes so you keep the surface level otherwise you will have waves. If you can use a DA (electric or air sander) Then do so but the you cant wet sand unless you are using a hook it (velcro) sander. If you notice some spots are really sanded down well and other spots are still shiny those shiny spots mean that its a low point. The heavily sanded spots are high points. You are doing fine. Just recoat with one or two more coats in the same method as above and that should take care of the high and low spots. But you will need to sand again. Once you see that most of it is sanded then you can go to a higher grit. Then once you went over the entire surface well with the higher grit you can go higher, and higher, and higher until you get to at least 1500 - 2000 grit. Once you get to 2000 grit then you will have the matte finish look but with micro scratches. So then you might want to take some rubbing compound and gently buff it to remove some of the sanding marks. If you use too much, too fast, too many times then you will get a shiny surface so don’t be generous with it. OR after you get to 1500 to 2000 grit paper instead of using rubbing compound use a matte finish clear coat. Spray on a few mist coats to get the surface tacky, then go to the flow coats. Don’t try to mimic you tube videos. Just apply coat after coat at a comfortable pace and slowly build up the thickness. Don’t try to dump it on if you don’t have experience with painting. I’m not sure if I have everything down but I believe I do. Its late Im tired…. P.S!!! Mask off everything that wont be touched with epoxy. Don’t use that blue painters tape crap. Go to your auto parts store and purchase the green 3M tape. That stuff is the best! Also don’t use regular house hold scissors to cut carbon fiber it wont work. Try to get some nice NEW 15 dollar scissors. The better the scissors the cleaner the weave will be. Bad scissors cant cut carbon fiber well and if it does cut semi well it pulls the weave in different directions. Before you brush anything pull the hairs with your hands to get any loose strands off. Again if I missed some parts or am confusing let me know and I’ll help you further. But its not easy to do this especially on your first time, and its not easy to teach this to somebody who has no experience in this or a similar field. If you are good with your hands you should do ok. The hardest part will be the sanding and trying to keep everything level. But since it’s a big flat piece everything else shouldn’t be too hard.

09-26-2009, 06:54 PM	#28 (permalink)
SpawnAeroJohn NOT A CURRENT VENDOR Join Date: Jun 2009 Location: Chicago Posts: 609 Drives: you Rep Power: 17	Thanks for the rep! Back at cha!

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