Originally Posted by ZMan8 (Post 2118929)

:tup: I need to do that this spring

Originally Posted by kenchan (Post 2118877)

i would like to confirm i have more hair than this in person => :icon17:

Originally Posted by Pintsize725 (Post 2118912)

First guess: Short! :icon17:

Originally Posted by JARblue (Post 2118936)

:tiphat:

I just hit 30K miles a few weeks ago and the transmission fluid was still more amber colored than black. It probably didn't need to be changed but it was more that I wanted to switch it to synthetic. The only note I have is buy more than 3 qts as I would have liked for it to overflow even though I know the level is fine after sticking my pinky finger in the fill hole to check. Driving with the new fluid is noticeably smoother but not significantly so. The differential fluid was dirty with lots of metal bits on the magnetic drain plug from the clutch wear - I will likely replace it again at 60K :tup:

This is the pump I got, but it was <$5 when I purchased it before Xmas Lubrimatic Fluid Quart Pump 4cc : Amazon.com : Automotive The screw top didn't fit the Redline bottles, but it wasn't a problem. I left it at my buddy's house since he'll probably make more use out of it. If I have to, I will just buy a new one 30K miles from now :icon17:

Originally Posted by alcheng (Post 2118955)

Mr.kenchan ==> http://www.gogglebuttons.com/googlep...1501yellow.jpg

Originally Posted by kenchan (Post 2119009)

thanks for the info, mr. jar! :tup: yah, my owner's manual never stated to change the MT fluid when following the mildest maintenance schedule so im probably still okay. the gearbox shifts no different than new, and i know last year i drove in 0F with no issue. :)

i think im going to do the diff then. :tup: so i guess all i need is the pump and crushwasher and oil. thanks! :tup:

Originally Posted by JARblue (Post 2119028)

My pleasure! :tup: I could not find any maintenance mileages that say to "replace" the transmission fluid - only "inspect". I find this curious, but considering it cost me an hour of time and <$40 in materials, I wouldn't have a problem changing it every 15-30K miles (even if it is completely unnecessary).

The diff will use up just under 2 qts so no need for any extra there (I used Redline 75W90 GL-5 Gear Oil). Also, I'm sure you're aware, but you typed crushwasher in singular form - be sure you get two (2) washers, one for each of the fill and drain plugs :tup:

Originally Posted by Pintsize725 (Post 2119030)

So I left my keys in my GTG's car and his cell phone is cut off. Hum...
Also got some potential good news at work.

Originally Posted by kenchan (Post 2119045)

excellent info, mr.jar! thanks again. :tup: i will definitely get 2 washers.
yah, it does seem kind of odd that there is no flush cycle timeframe... perhaps since it's sealed so well 'time' does not seem to be a factor..(?)



oy... sorry to hear about the keys but 'good news' at work is welcome! :tup:

Originally Posted by JARblue (Post 2119051)

Ms. Pint, I have ordered a random variety of 0805 LEDs per Digitonium's post here: http://www.the370z.com/diy-section-d...tml#post519434 :tup:

If you want the LOCK/ON/ACC LEDs changed as well, you will need to order these PLCC-2 1210 SMD LED Blue Ultra Bright 1000 mcd Seeing as how you no longer have a steering lock function, I don't even know whether that one will light up any more. But at $0.24 each, I think you could afford all three :icon17:

Originally Posted by Pintsize725 (Post 2119063)

I'm stuck at work until hubby can bring his spare FOB.
So bossman here wants to split GT from our current warehouse and split staff. I was asked if I was interested in managing it.



I can order these tonight! :tup:

Originally Posted by alcheng (Post 2118593)

:tup:




Mr.kenchan, it's the only place I can do driving drunk, speeding, hit & run, road rage and I still titled as F1 Champ at the end... :tup:

:icon18::icon18::icon18::icon18: